Walking with Keilyn: Aldgate to Westminster... and beyond

Friday October 10, 2025.

Keilyn and I had worked out that we hadn't visited London, together, in quite a few weeks, which was a shock.

So, as soon as I had finished work and Keilyn had arrived home from school, we both got changed, grabbed some snacks and took a taxi to Watford Metropolitan underground station. An Aldgate-bound train was waiting at platform 2, which we hurriedly boarded, grabbing seats near the centre of the train. Within minutes we were on our way.

Pulling into Harrow-on-the-Hill station we were informed, by our driver, that the train pulling in beside us would be leaving first. So, a mass exodus of travellers, including us, crossed the platform and boarded the other train. A ridiculous thing to do, really, as this would only shave a few minutes from our journey time. Sure enough, though, we were soon moving again.

We exited Aldgate station and headed west, turning down Fenchurch Street until we reached Fen Court, where we stopped to look at the 'Gilt of Cain', which is a sculpture that commemorates the abolition of the slave trade. 

It is a remarkable piece. Composed of a granite podium, with steps, and columns that are shaped like sugar cane acting as a congregation. Each column is etched with lines from the poem 'Gilt of Cain', by Lemn Sissay.

We then made our way towards Fenchurch Street station, where we purchased some hot food, which we ate on the benches on Fenchurch Place. 

Suitably filled with energy we made our way back to Fenchurch Street and turned down St Katherine's Row and through French Ordinary Court. This eventually brought us out onto Crutched Friars and, then, Savage Gardens which brought us to Trinity Square. I do love the City of London's street names.

Crossing Tower Hill we stopped to take some photos of His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, spotting some of the poppy installation flowing down the wall of the Medieval castle.

From here we headed down to the River Thames and onto Three Quays Walk. The light was fading as we reached the river, making Tower Bridge really stand out, with its lights illuminating its profile. Sugar Quay Jetty offered the perfect place to grab some photos of the bridge, HMS Belfast and The Shard.

Approaching Grant's Quay Wharf we noticed that the top of The Shard had lights running up its uppermost levels, signalling the time was now 19:00.

London Bridge, like the rest of the bridges we would see, was illuminated with coloured lights, reflecting off the turbulent waters of the outgoing tide.

Aldgate Pump

At the corner of Leadenhall Street and Fenchurch Street, where the two streets join to form Aldgate High Street, you will find a stone obelisk with a lantern mounted to its top.

It is no ordinary obelisk, but is in fact the Aldgate Pump, a historic landmark point that marks the beginning of the East End and was mentioned by Charles Dickens, as well as being sung about in traditional rhymes and songs.

It was originally situated further west, on the site of what was to become Fenchurch Street station.

The freshwater well was fed from one of London's many underground rivers, beginning its journey in Hampstead, to the north, and had been used since the 13th century. The water was said to be "bright, sparkling and cool and of a pleasant flavour".

However, it was later discovered that the water was contaminated. The decaying organic matter and calcium from the bones of dead Londoners, in the nearby cemeteries, had begun to leach into the underground rivers and streams.

So, in 1876, when the Aldgate Pump was moved to its new location, it was connected to the mains water supply.

This current pump is made of Portland stone, and dates from the 18th century, while the brass wolf's head spout is 19th century. The lantern, at the top of the obelisk, is a handmade replica of the original, which was lost in 1900.

In 2019 the City of London Corporation, with the assistance of the Heritage of London Trust, repaired and restored the pump. Some of the money came from Miss Anthea Gray, who had left a generous gift in her Will, to the Heritage of London Trust.

Dragon Boundary Marks for the City of London

One of the silver dragons that adorns Holborn Viaduct.

Anyone that has walked into the Square Mile along one of its main thoroughfares, will have passed by one of the fourteen silver dragons that mark the boundary to the City of London. 

The coat of arms of the City of London has two dragons supporting a shield that bears a flag of St George, with a sword in its top left corner. Atop the shield is a knight's helmet and plume, while the motto "Domine dirige nos (Lord guide us)" runs in a ribbon across the bottom. The sword, with its tip pointed upward, symbolises the martyrdom of St Paul, the patron saint of London.

One of the original dragons from the London Coal Exchange.

The City's first silver dragons adorned the London Coal Exchange building, which was situated almost opposite the Old Billingsgate Market. Then, in 1962, the Coal Exchange was demolished due to damage from World War II and the need to widen the road. However, the two 7 feet (2.1 metres) cast iron dragons, that had stood above the entrance on a parapet, were saved. Once they had been cleaned, repaired and painted they were mounted on Portland Stone plinths that are 6 feet (1.8 metres) in height and erected on Victoria Embankment, in October 1963.

Eleven more dragons, which are half-size replicas of these, were then erected at various points around the City of London boundary, during the late 1960s.

Nathaniel Bentley, 'The dirty hardware merchant of Leadenhall Street'

There is a public house, on Bishopsgate, with a rather curious name: 'Dirty Dicks'.

With such an odd name I knew that there  had to be an interesting story behind it... and there is.

The pub is named after Nathaniel Bentley, who lived a curious life.

Born in, or around, 1735, into the family of a wealthy hardware merchant, Nathaniel was afforded an education that befitted his status.

Dubbed 'the beau of Leadenhall', because of his clothing and impeccable manners, Nathaniel was quite the ladies man and could be seen at many functions in and around the City.

Following his father's death, in 1760, Nathaniel inherited his father's business, which consisted of a successful hardware business, a shop and a fully stocked warehouse in Leadenhall Street. Plus, around 15 properties, some of which were leased out.

In 1764 Nathaniel visited Paris and attended the coronation of Louis XVI, where he was introduced to the king and was lauded as the 'best dressed and mannered English gentleman' at the French Court. His education had resulted in Nathaniel being able to speak French and Italian fluently, allowing him to associate with people of the highest respectability.

He was also a  patron of Vauxhall and Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens, up until the early 19th century.

Now, things get curious and it becomes hard to sort fact from fiction. Following his father's death Nathaniel had moved into the warehouse, which hadn't been cleaned since 1760, and began to let his appearance decline. 

Rumours persist that a lady, whom Nathaniel was to marry, died on the eve of their wedding, while others suggest that the lady in question died on their wedding day. 

Some rumours persist that the lady died before a lavish gathering that Nathaniel had planned, for her and her family, and that the lavish meal was left on the table, behind the lock door of the dining room, gradually deteriorating much like Nathaniel's appearance. 

This rumour appears to have inspired Charles Dickens to write the character of 'Mrs Haversham'.

Either way, Nathaniel stopped washing. He repaired his clothes, until they were no longer fit for purpose, and gave himself just 18p to live on, per day.

If he did go out he still wore fine clothes and was always polite and well mannered, just not very clean.

He became miserly and let all of his staff go, except for one who did his shopping for him. His diet consisted of vegetables and, occasionally, bacon, although that had to be lean as the fat was a waste.

He was also partial to drinking beer, demolishing a gallon of the stuff every three days.

He was no longer known as 'the beau of Leadenhall', but rather as 'Dirty Dick', the dirty hardware merchant of Leadenhall Street.

When asked why he didn't wash his hands, anymore, he replied,

"It is of no use, Sir. If I wash my hands today they will be dirty again tomorrow."

Over time the warehouse became even dirtier, with grime caking the windows, while dust covered his wares, inside the property.

Refusing to light a fire to fight off the cold, as the warehouse became more dilapidated and windows cracked, he would stand in a box of straw to keep his feet warm.

He refused the help of his neighbours who offered to help in repairing and maintaining the building.

One afternoon he damaged his leg, while moving around the warehouse, and employed a lady to supply him with bandages and medicines. However, his leg refused to heal so he was forced to pay to have it treated, otherwise he could have lost it, or worse, died.

People still flocked to his warehouse, especially the ladies, who were fascinated by his unkempt appearance but still polite nature.

Nathaniel continued to occupy the 46 Leadenhall Street warehouse, until his lease expired in 1802. Mr Gosling took over the lease and leased the building to Nathaniel for another year.

In 1804 the lease expired and Nathaniel vacated the premises, leaving it to his successor, Mr Gosling.

'Knight of Cnihtengild' by Denys Mitchell

If you were to walk along Devonshire Square, midway between Aldgate and Liverpool Street stations, you will discover this statue of a Knight on horseback.

It is a wonderful piece that, although looking out of place among the office buildings, harks back to a bygone era for the area.

It was commissioned by Standard Life Insurance Company, designed by Denys Mitchell and unveiled in 1990.

The statue

The knight, depicted in armour, sitting atop a neighing horse is made from beaten bronze, with blue glass lenses in the horse's carapace.

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Saturday January 25, 2025.

Another Saturday and another trip to London was in order.

Up. Dressed. Keilyn and I take an Uber to the station. Meet Steve. Underground to Finchley Road. Underground to Aldgate.

Reaching the end of the line, Steve, Keilyn and I left Aldgate station and immediately grabbed a hot drink from the coffee shop outside the station. Then, with drinks in hand, we set off... heading east.

Heading along Aldgate High Street we crossed St Botolph Street and continued along Whitechapel High Street and onto Whitechapel Road, soon coming to Whitechapel Market, with its hustle and bustle and aromatic smells.

We passed the old Whitechapel Dell Foundry, the Royal London Hospital and the Blind Beggar pub, briefly toying with the idea of heading south, through Shadwell to the River Thames, but instead continued east along Mile End Road.

Statues, sculptures and fascinating architecture lined our route with Trinity Green and its Almshouses being a highlight, with stone ships mounted atop the ends of the Almshouses.

We continued our walk, passing Stepney Green station and the huge campus that is Queen Mary University of London, until we reached The Regent's Canal.

Realising that we would soon end up on Stratford or Ilford, if Keilyn had her way, we decided to join the towpath and follow the canal to the River Thames.

Swans, coots, moorhens, ducks and geese were happily gliding along the still water surface, while Herons stood on the bank, or stood motionless in Mile End Park, oblivious to the joggers and families using the space.

We passed the Ragged School Museum, with its cafe full of patrons, and continued alongside the canal until we reached Limehouse Basin, with its myriad barges, boats and yachts.

From here it was a short walk through Ropemakers Fields to Narrow Street, using the bridge to cross Limekiln Dock, to reach Limehouse Hole Stairs. As the tide was out we dropped down onto the small beach and enjoyed the unseasonably warm heat of the sun.

As we climbed back up to street level I could just make out a conversation between a young woman and a much older man, but there was no one around that matched the sounds. Joggers were plugged into their devices, while families were pointing out the sights. As I stood and listened I realised that the voices were coming from a silver bench. Sitting down I realised that it was a recorded interview about life on the docks, being played through speakers at either end of the bench. It is such a clever idea.

We continued along Loverose Way before crossing onto Heron Quays Road, making our way around Middle Dock, heading for the Henry Addington pub, where we would have dinner.

Walking alone: Aldgate to Barbican... and beyond

Monday November 25, 2024.

Having an occasional day off work I set off for London, unsure of where I would end up.

I took the train to Finchley Road, where I waited for an Aldgate train to complete my journey.

On exiting the station I turned west and headed through Aldgate Square, checking out the latest 'Sculpture in the City' piece, which is a Kissing Gate, by Maya Rose Edwards. I then continued along Houndsditch before turning down Cutler Street, as I had spotted a coffee van.

As I continues along Devonshire Square I noticed a statue of Knight on horseback, so stopped to take a photo, or two. This piece was designed by Denys Mitchell and is called 'The Knight of Cnihtengild'. Lights set into the base cause the lenses in the carapace to glow.

From here I continued my walk towards Bishopsgate and London Wall, stopping to look at the Victorian Bath House, which looks completely out of place against the office buildings that surround it.

Along London Wall I walked, passing Finsbury Circus, crossing Moorgate, until I myself by the Elsyng Spital Church Tower. This building was once a nunnery, church, college, destroyed by fire, rebuilt, destroyed and left as a ruin.

Continuing on I turned up Aldersgate Street, passing the now closed Museum of London, and on to Goswell Road, before turning west onto Clerkenwell Road, where I stopped in the garden of St John's Priory Church.

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to St Katharine Docks... and beyond

St Katharine Docks and Marina.

Saturday May 25, 2024. 

Another Saturday and another walk through London.

Keilyn and I met up with my friend Steve at Watford Underground station and boarded our train to Baker Street. Arriving at Croxley station we were joined by my mum and uncle Martin.

We alighted at Finchley Road and waited the six minutes for an Aldgate bound train to continue our journey.

Arriving at Aldgate station we headed outside and, after crossing Aldgate High Street, grabbed a coffee from 'Copper Coffee', on the corner of Mansell Street. We then continued along Mansell Street on to St Katharine's Way and our destination of St Katharine Docks.

'Excelsior'.

With the sun in an almost cloudless sky it was the perfect conditions to wander around the Marina with its yachts, barges and other vessels.

Is that a Koi?

Having explored the marina and after spotting what looked like Koi in the clear waters, we made our way to the Docks and the chance to explore the 'Dunkirk Little Ships' that had arrived ahead of the anniversary of 'Operation Dynamo', which took place between May 26 and June 4, 1940.

Dunkirk Little Ships.

These historic ships had been part of an armada that travelled from Ramsgate to Dunkirk to aid in the rescue of over 336,000 British and French soldiers. Many of these boats made multiple trips.

We read the stories of the ships, listened to crew members telling stories and got up close to these historic vessels.

A different perspective.

With noon fast approaching we went our separate ways, with mum and Martin staying around the St Katharine Docks area, while Keilyn, Steve and I crossed Tower Bridge and headed along the Thames Path towards Rotherhithe.

Walking with friends: King's Cross to Whitechapel... and beyond

A circular Tube Map, advertising Google's new 'circle to search' feature, at King's Cross station.

Saturday February 3, 2024.

Originally our plan had been to walk westward from London Bridge towards Vauxhall, as this was a route that we had only partially completed before. However, with a few train strikes and some engineering works being carried out, we decided on a completely different route.

Len made his way from Kings Langley to meet me and we caught the Metropolitan line to King's Cross, where we waited for Gary, who was travelling down from Peterborough. Len and I had a coffee, while we awaited Gary's train. Once Gary had arrived, at around 10:40, we decided to head east, along Pentonville Road to City Road and then onto Commercial Street.

Trains covered in graffiti, Shoreditch.

On the way we passed through Shoreditch and saw lots of graffiti covered trains and buildings. 

With the time getting on for 11:30ish, we headed along Whitechapel Road in search of a bite to eat. A small restaurant, which was reasonably priced, provided sustenance and, suitably full, we continued ever eastward.

The Blind Beggar.

Our first port-of-call was 'The Blind Beggar'. Gary had never visited this infamous pub, so he was pleased to enter. While we sat and chatted the actor Vas Blackwood entered, as he uses the pub as a starting point of his walking tours around the East End. Gary decided to go and have a chat with him, buying a signed photo and getting a selfie with him.

I think that sometime very soon I shall book myself on to one of Vas Blackwood's Walking Tours, as they are meant to be really informative and entertaining.

Gary with the actor Vas Blackwood.

Suitably refreshed we left the pub and headed south, through Shadwell towards Wapping, as there was a pub that I thought they might like to visit.