Walking with Erin: Kensington to Piccadilly... and beyond

Wednesday May 28, 2025.

Following yesterday's walk with Keilyn, today was Erin's day. Not usually one for walking, Erin had set her heart on visiting the Victoria & Albert Museum, so off we set.

A taxi dropped us at Watford Metropolitan station, where, while we waited for our train we spotted a fox and a cub on the banks besides the tracks. Then a Robin flitted by us, carrying food for its babies, high up in the rafters of the station. Our train soon arrived and off we went, exiting at Baker Street, from where we caught we caught the Number 74 bus, towards Putney, alighting outside the Victoria & Albert Museum.

This was our first visit to this museum, so we wasted no time crossing the road and headed inside. 

 

Entering through the Cromwell Road entrance we were both amazed at the domed reception area and, feeling a bit intimidated by the scale of the building, turned right, heading into the Medieval and Renaissance Gallery. 

After this we headed to the Cast Courts, which were amazing.

From here we travelled through the Korea, Buddhism, Japan, China, Islamic Middle East and South Asia Rooms. Then we were off through South East Asia and the Raphael Cartoons and Porter Gallery.

Then it was upstairs to the Europe (1600-1815) Rooms, before meandering our way back down to the Sculpture Rooms and some of the smaller rooms. Unfortunately, the Fashion Gallery is closed, until Summer 2027, which was one of the rooms that Erin especially wanted to see. 

Because of the size of the museum, I think we only got to see about two-thirds of it, before we had to leave, via the shop, as we were both in need of some food, promising to return to see the rest of this amazing place, some time soon.

Nathaniel Bentley, 'The dirty hardware merchant of Leadenhall Street'

There is a public house, on Bishopsgate, with a rather curious name: 'Dirty Dicks'.

With such an odd name I knew that there  had to be an interesting story behind it... and there is.

The pub is named after Nathaniel Bentley, who lived a curious life.

Born in, or around, 1735, into the family of a wealthy hardware merchant, Nathaniel was afforded an education that befitted his status.

Dubbed 'the beau of Leadenhall', because of his clothing and impeccable manners, Nathaniel was quite the ladies man and could be seen at many functions in and around the City.

Following his father's death, in 1760, Nathaniel inherited his father's business, which consisted of a successful hardware business, a shop and a fully stocked warehouse in Leadenhall Street. Plus, around 15 properties, some of which were leased out.

In 1764 Nathaniel visited Paris and attended the coronation of Louis XVI, where he was introduced to the king and was lauded as the 'best dressed and mannered English gentleman' at the French Court. His education had resulted in Nathaniel being able to speak French and Italian fluently, allowing him to associate with people of the highest respectability.

He was also a  patron of Vauxhall and Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens, up until the early 19th century.

Now, things get curious and it becomes hard to sort fact from fiction. Following his father's death Nathaniel had moved into the warehouse, which hadn't been cleaned since 1760, and began to let his appearance decline. 

Rumours persist that a lady, whom Nathaniel was to marry, died on the eve of their wedding, while others suggest that the lady in question died on their wedding day. 

Some rumours persist that the lady died before a lavish gathering that Nathaniel had planned, for her and her family, and that the lavish meal was left on the table, behind the lock door of the dining room, gradually deteriorating much like Nathaniel's appearance. 

This rumour appears to have inspired Charles Dickens to write the character of 'Mrs Haversham'.

Either way, Nathaniel stopped washing. He repaired his clothes, until they were no longer fit for purpose, and gave himself just 18p to live on, per day.

If he did go out he still wore fine clothes and was always polite and well mannered, just not very clean.

He became miserly and let all of his staff go, except for one who did his shopping for him. His diet consisted of vegetables and, occasionally, bacon, although that had to be lean as the fat was a waste.

He was also partial to drinking beer, demolishing a gallon of the stuff every three days.

He was no longer known as 'the beau of Leadenhall', but rather as 'Dirty Dick', the dirty hardware merchant of Leadenhall Street.

When asked why he didn't wash his hands, anymore, he replied,

"It is of no use, Sir. If I wash my hands today they will be dirty again tomorrow."

Over time the warehouse became even dirtier, with grime caking the windows, while dust covered his wares, inside the property.

Refusing to light a fire to fight off the cold, as the warehouse became more dilapidated and windows cracked, he would stand in a box of straw to keep his feet warm.

He refused the help of his neighbours who offered to help in repairing and maintaining the building.

One afternoon he damaged his leg, while moving around the warehouse, and employed a lady to supply him with bandages and medicines. However, his leg refused to heal so he was forced to pay to have it treated, otherwise he could have lost it, or worse, died.

People still flocked to his warehouse, especially the ladies, who were fascinated by his unkempt appearance but still polite nature.

Nathaniel continued to occupy the 46 Leadenhall Street warehouse, until his lease expired in 1802. Mr Gosling took over the lease and leased the building to Nathaniel for another year.

In 1804 the lease expired and Nathaniel vacated the premises, leaving it to his successor, Mr Gosling.

Walking with Keilyn: Waterloo to Lambeth... and beyond

Tuesday May 27, 2025.

As I had a few days away from work, Keilyn had planned the day by saying that she wanted to revisit the Imperial War Museum. Possibly trying to learn more about the military, before she joins the Army Cadets in September.

With the weather forecast telling us that there would be intermittent rain showers, throughout the day, we set off. A gentle walk to Watford Metropolitan station was where we took a train to Finchley Road, where we changed to a Jubilee line train to complete our journey. However, Harold Stabler had designed 18 decorative tiles, that can only be found at 5 specific stations, so I suggested jumping off the train at St John's Wood, so that I could get a photo of them all. Keilyn agreed.

As soon as we pulled into St John's Wood we alighted from the train and began searching for the tiles. I already had a photo of 11 of them, so there were only 7 more to find. In the three minutes before the next train arrived we found another 5. I guess I am going to have to do another trip to find the last 2.

We boarded the next train and alighted at Waterloo, from where our walk would begin. 

We headed southeast, along Waterloo Road, with the 'London Ambulance Service Headquarters' being our first stop. Three ambulances, a 1947 Daimler DC27, a 1965 Morris LD and a 2004 Mercedes Sprinter, were stood on the plaza, in front of the building, while information sheets, affixed to the rear wall, told the history of the service.

With photos taken we headed back up Waterloo Road, with the Waterloo Bus Depot being our next stop. A bus garage may not be that exciting, even if this particular one was the first to have an all electric fleet, but it does have a cafe. A cafe that is open to the public. So, we went in, ordering a full English breakfast, for myself, and a small breakfast for Keilyn. The food was perfectly cooked, with the meal coming with tea, for Keilyn, and coffee for myself. The food was delicious and we demolished it all.

On leaving the 'Bus Cafe' we headed to the Waterloo MillenniuM Garden, just as rain began to fall. Not a heavy rain, but a rain that could quite easily soak you to the skin. The garden has a pond, sculptures, meadows and wildlife areas and was fun to explore.

"Was this Piano played by Charles Chaplin Senior?"

While wandering around Vauxhall I popped into 'The Jolly Gardeners' for a drink. While chatting with the barmaid she told me that the piano, standing forlorn in the corner, was played regularly by Charles Chaplin Senior. 

I have to say that I was a bit disbelieving about this titbit of information, considering the state of the instrument and the lack of a plaque. Still, it was something that I would research later, just to see if there was any truth in it.

Although Charles Chaplin Senior was a music hall entertainer, beginning his career as a mimic, at the age of 24. Soon after he changed his act to that of a 'dramatic and descriptive singer'.

He was never inclined to learn an instrument, and I can find no evidence that he could play the piano.

He toured the United States of America, in 1890, and continued to pull in the crowds until 1897. His last appearance was at the Granville Theatre, Waltham Green, in 1900.

So far there is no information that suggests that this piano was played by him.

But... hang on.

Many of those in the music hall industry became alcoholics, as they were expected to encourage customers to purchase drinks. This was what happened to Charles.

His son, Charlie Spencer Chaplin, wrote in his memoirs that he would often wait outside public houses, where his father, being an alcoholic, could always be found.

It is known that Charles Chaplin drank in many of the local pubs, including the Queen's Head and The Three Stags, the latter of which is where Charlie states in his memoirs, "That was the last time I saw him alive."

The Jolly Gardeners is located close to the Queen's Head, so it is entirely possible that Charles drank here, entertaining the customers by playing the piano.

The only information that I can find, that states that Charles Chaplin Senior played this piano, comes from the website for The Jolly Gardeners:

"...the borough was dominated by the Doulton buildings and pottery factory near to the river end of Black Prince Road. The Jolly Gardeners would have been a spit and sawdust kind of place where the potters would have a pint or two after a long shift. One of the renowned local entertainers, Charlie Chaplin Snr, played the piano in the corner (which still stands), and part of his job was to boost the place’s profits by encouraging punters to stay for another drink."

So, there you have it. It is a plausible story, but I can find no hard evidence to support it, except for the forlorn piano in the corner... which is the only object that knows the truth.

If the providence could be authenticated then this would make for a remarkable piece of music history, that should be celebrated. 

But, for now, this piano needs to be looked after, possibly even moved to a more secure location, within the pub, to prevent further damage.

Until then, if you are on Black Prince Road pop into 'The Jolly Gardeners' and check out what could be a small piece of music history.

There are many other places related to the Chaplin family, situated throughout this area, including the Charlie Chaplin mosaics on Lambeth Walk.

Walking with friends: Bethnal Green to Spitalfields... and beyond

Saturday May 24, 2025.

When friends wish to accompany me on a walk, in London, I have to work out a rough route that will take in some sites that will appeal to everyone. As friends all have different backgrounds, interests and are of different ages, this can be a challenge.

However, I am always up for a challenge, so I set about planning a route that would encompass enough places of varied age to visit so that everyone would be satisfied.

I set off on the short walk to Watford Metropolitan station, where I met up with Steve, before boarding a Baker Street-bound train. Gary had made his way to Moor Park station and, with me calling him as we pulled in, joined us for the trip.

Alighting at Finchley Road we waited three minutes for an Aldgate-bound train, which we rode until Liverpool Street, where we took a Central line train the one stop to Bethnal Green.

On exiting the station we headed up Cambridge Heath Road and entered the Young V&A Museum. I had picked this particular place as we had all been children, once, and I knew that we would all see some things from our childhood. Besides, I hadn't been here in almost 8 years, during which time it had undergone a major refurbishment.

Passing through the reception, with its gift shop, we entered the main hall, heading to the first gallery on our left. Tin toys, railway sets, movie merchandise toys and posters, Christopher Reeve's costume from Superman IV: The Quest for Peace, toys from television series and so much more.

Then there was a dimly-lit room full of dolls houses, all lit up with tiny lights from within.

The War Horse puppet, a suit of Samurai armour, models, more toys, giant dolls houses that a child could easily fit inside, books and more.

A stage area allowed children to dress up and act out scenes, while a glass fronted cabinet held Boris Karloff's costume from 'The Bride of Frankenstein', while others contained Kabuki masks and more recent mass-produced masks.

A room, with a black and white floor, with pink walls, created the illusion, if you stood in the right place, of a person shrinking in one corner, while being unable to fully stand in another corner.

The Design Gallery showed how things were designed and manufactured, while another gallery showcased board games, cards and gaming consoles.

We explored the entire building and its exhibits, before making our way outside, after making a donation to the museum.

From here we continued up Cambridge Heath Road, before turning west down Hackney Road. As is common for this area of London, many old houses are sandwiched between new builds, while 'ghost signs' still advertise products and companies that no longer exist.  We continued heading west, before turning south, on Horatio Street, which brought us to Ezra Street. Ezra Street, and nearby Barnet Grove, are wonderfully preserved Georgian streets, some of which were used in the 1990 movie 'The Krays', standing in for Vallance Road, where the Krays childhood home was.

At the corner of Ezra Street and Columbia Road stands the Royal Oak, which, fortuitously, was open. So, in we went. It is a wonderful pub, full of history and retains much of its 1923 upgrades. Because  of its location and style, the Royal Oak has been used in numerous television series, like 'Goodnight Sweetheart' (1993-1999), and films such as 'The Krays' (1990), 'Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels' (1998) and 'Legend' (2015).

Suitably refreshed we left this wonderful pub and headed along Columbia Road and turned down Barnet Grove, until we reached Bethnal Green Road. Feeling peckish we stopped for some lunch, which was filling, before continuing along Bethnal Green Road, stopping to stare at the phenomenally long queue outside 'E. Pellicci's'. 'E. Pellicci's' was where Ronnie and Reggie Kray ate breakfast, nearly everyday, and has become even more popular with tourists.

Turning around we crossed Bethnal Green Road and spotted the 'Marquis of Cornwallis' pub, so we went in for some refreshments. What a contrast it was. Its outside appearance looked rundown, with paint flaking from the walls and the lettering on the name almost completely vanished. Yet, inside, it was modern, with panelled wood and countless televisions showing different sports.

On leaving the 'Marquis of Cornwallis' we headed south along Vallance Road, passing Weavers Fields, stopping to take a photo of the buildings that now occupy the place where Ronnie and Reggie Kray had their childhood home.

From here we headed along Dunbridge Street and saw the Bethnal Green Bath House and, to its left, Repton Boxing Club, where the Kray brothers used to box. Dunbridge Street brought us to Cheshire Street and the next stop on our journey; 'The Carpenter's Arms'. 

This pub, built in 1871, is a wonderful little place. The small bar leads through to a small seating area and then into a small outside seating area. The walls are covered in framed photos of London Transport photos and maps, Repton Boxing Club, Truman Brewery photos and advertisements and more. Other framed black and white photos show some of the regulars enjoying drinks and having parties. Then there is a photo of Ronnie and Reggie. This pub was purchased by them, in 1967, as a gift to their mother, Violet. It was from offices upstairs that business meetings took place. It was also here, on October 29, 1967, that Reggie Kray had a drink to calm his nerves, before heading off to murder Jack 'The Hat' McVitie.

Once we had finished our drinks we continued along Cheshire Street and then turned south, down Brick Lane, passing the Truman Brewery and then Hanbury Street, where Annie Chapman was murdered by Jack the Ripper. Eventually we reached Fashion Street with its Moorish style market building that, when it opened, was a financial disaster. Some of the space was taken over by G Scammell and Nephew, who were wheelwrights. It was here that Scammell Lorries had their beginning. 

Grave of Joseph Grimaldi, "King of Clowns"

Joseph Grimaldi: King of Clowns.

Next to the former St James's Anglican Chapel, in the small churchyard, you will find the grave of Joseph Grimaldi. 

His name may be familiar to some, while others will have no idea who he was. Those with coulrophobia will probably be terrified, for Joseph Grimaldi changed the role of the clown, in pantomimes and plays, earning him the title 'King of the Clowns'.

Born in 1778, Joseph Grimaldi came from a family with a long history as entertainers and performers. 

His first appearance on stage was at the age of 3, when his father took him onto the stage at Sadler's Wells Theatre.

As soon as Joseph was old enough he became an actor, working at Drury Lane Theatre and Sadler's Wells Theatre, quickly becoming one of the most popular actors of his day.

In 1806, Joseph Grimaldi was hired for a role in the pantomime 'Harlequin and Mother Goose', at Covent Garden Theatre. It was here that Grimaldi created a new style of clown, a style that we still know today. He used white face paint, with red paint around his lips and on his cheeks and he painted his eyebrows thick and black. To finish the transformation he wore bright, oversized clothes and got up to all sorts of mischief on stage. So good was his performance that he upstaged the Harlequin. The name 'Joey' passed into the modern language to mean a clown.

Joseph Grimaldi worked at Sadler's Wells Theatre for over 40 years, as a performer and part-proprietor. 

In 1823, Joseph was forced to retire due to poor health. His joints were giving him problems and, along with a respiratory condition, he could no longer perform as he wished.

Following the death of his wife he fell into debt and became an alcoholic, which didn't help his depression. He died in 1837, penniless and alone.

He was buried in the churchyard of St James's Anglican Chapel.

Cheapside Plane: Possibly the Oldest Tree in the City of London

Walking through the Square Mile there are plenty of green spaces, filled with plants, shrubs and trees, which bring nature to this hub of London life. One tree in particular, though, stands out. 

On Wood Street, Cheapside, stands a 70 foot London Plane (Platanus × acerifolia), on a small plot of land surrounded on three sides by buildings. So how old is it and how has it survived fire, redevelopment and war?

Research shows that this tree has stood for over 275 years, although it could be much older. Regardless, this still makes it, quite possibly, the oldest tree in the City of London.

The tree stands on a small plot that was once part of St Peter Cheap, one of the churches that did not survive the Great Fire of 1666. 

Historic Vessels, Trinity Buoy Wharf

'Diana' built in 1890.

Not only is Trinity Buoy Wharf home to historic buildings and home to various artists and sculptures, but it also home to some historic vessels. These vessels are of national importance, so it is important that they are preserved.

DIANA

'Diana' is a rivetted steel/wrought-iron Thames Lighter built in 1890 by unknown London builders. She is typical of many hundreds of 'barges' used on the River Thames, canals, tributaries, docks and the  Port of London for the transport of cargo, aggregates and supplies between wharves, warehouses and ships.

Usually towed singly or in large groups by river or dock tugs, they were also hand rowed by one man going with the tide, this is known as ‘barge driving’ and is still celebrated in the annual Thames Barge Driving Match.

'Knocker White' built in 1924.

KNOCKER WHITE

'Knocker White' is a Dutch-built tugboat, but was originally the steam tug 'Cairnrock'. She was built by T.Van Duijvendijk’s yard at Lekkerkek near Rotterdam, for Harrisons (London) Lighterage Limited, in 1924. The steam engine came from Crabtree & Co. while the boiler came from Blair & Co. Limited They were fitted at Fellow’s & Co. Limited’s dry dock, Great Yarmouth. 

In the early years of the vessel’s history, the 'Cairnrock' was used to tow Harrisons’ floating steam-powered coal elevator 'Wotan' around the lower reaches of the River Thames. The tug was designed for general towage work and had the ability to 'drop-down' her funnel for up-river work, that required passing under the bridges.

'Knocker White' built in 1924.

In 1960, the tug was acquired by Alfred White and then passed to W E White and Sons (Towage) Limited, in 1962. It was at this time that the tug’s name was changed and the original engine and boiler removed. Two 'Petters' marine diesel engines were fitted with their associated fuel tanks. Alterations were also made to the wheelhouse, with an external forward companionway, that provided separate access to the main cabin. The original funnel was replaced by another drop-down funnel, made in around 1943, which was removed from the steam tug 'Pinklake'.

She is now preserved as a museum ship.

'Lightship LV95', built in 1939.

Government Code & Cypher School (and a hidden message)

During World War I the British Army and Royal Navy both had separate intelligence agencies. Military Intelligence 1b, MI1(b) and Naval Intelligence Department 25, NID25, respectively. NID25 was initially known as Room 40, or 40 O.B., with O.B. referring to 'old building'. 

Following the conclusion of World War I the Cabinet's Secret Service Committee recommended that a peacetime codebreaking agency should be created. Lord Curzon, chairman of the Cabinet's Secret Service Committee, tasked Hugh Sinclair, Director of Naval Intelligence, with creating the new department.

Hugh Sinclair merged staff from NID25 with MI1(b), with the new agency consisting of between 25-30 officers, with roughly the same amount of clerical staff. Victor Forbes, of the Foreign Office, chose the cover-name 'Government Code & Cypher School (GC&CS).

The Government Code & Cypher School moved into Watergate House, Adelphi, with the Admiralty's Alastair Denniston, previously an NID25 officer, as its operational head. 

Its public directive was "to advise as to the security of codes and cyphers used by all Government departments and to assist in their provision". However, it also had a secret directive: "study the methods of cypher communications used by foreign powers".

Although officially formed on November 1, 1919, the Government Code & Cypher School produced its first decryption on October 19, 1919.

In 1921 the offices moved to the Broadway Buildings, opposite St James's Park, in the same building as the SIS, and came under the supervision of Hugh Sinclair. At the time Hugh Sinclair was Chief of SIS and Director of GC&CS.

On February 14, 2019, HM Queen Elizabeth II unveiled a City of Westminster plaque to mark the centenary of GCHQ.

However, keeping with the codebreaking, communications and cypher work of GCHQ, the plaque contains a hidden message, which most people don't even realise. 

Can you uncover the hidden message?

If you can't figure it out, there is a clue below. 

Various characters, on the plaque, have a dot or dash beneath them. 

If you find them all it reveals the message... 

Highlight the space between the quotation marks, below, to uncover the answer.

"1 HUNDRED YEARS"

So, did you work it out, or did you cheat?

Harold Stabler's Decorative Tiles on the London Underground

Hertfordshire.

Every station on the London Underground may appear to have a uniform style, internally, but, depending on when the station was built, it will have its own aesthetic. Exteriors, again, depend on the architect, the year it was opened and its location.

Baker Street, for instance, has tiles carrying the profile of Sherlock Holmes.

However, unique to five underground stations are relief tiles that are randomly placed, not all at eye level, depicting coats of arms, animals, buildings and even a portrait. The tiles are the same colour as the surrounding tiles, so as not to break up the uniformity of the style, but, once you spot them you can't stop looking for them.

Thomas Lord (1755-1832), English cricketer.

There are eighteen distinct tiles, spread across five underground stations. Although some have been repaired or replaced, the originals are easy to spot as they are usually marked with Stabler's signature 'S', somewhere on the tile.

Walking with Keilyn: Victory in Europe 80 Celebrations (VE-Day 80)

Monday May 5, 2025.

With the Victory in Europe 80th Celebrations getting  underway, today, Keilyn and I set off to enjoy the festivities. A taxi took us to Watford Underground station, where we boarded a Baker Street-bound train. My mum and uncle Martin had left earlier in the morning, heading for The Mall and St James's Park, in order to see the procession and catch the flypast from there. We changed at Finchley Road and caught a Jubilee line train, to Green Park, as Keilyn thought it would nice to catch up to mum and Martin. 

On exiting Green Park station we were herded, like cattle, down the east path towards The Mall. Vendors were selling Union flags and other merchandise, as the crowds flowed in both directions. On reaching The Mall we were given VE Day flags and then realised that there was no way we would see anything and, with my mum and Martin on the other side of the road, we retraced our steps, heading for Piccadilly.

Photo © Keilyn J A Morrissey.

Heading east, along Piccadilly, we made our way against the throng of people still heading to Green Park, before we reached Piccadilly Circus. To our surprise Piccadilly Circus was deserted of people, so we headed towards Leicester Square, stopping at Greggs to pick some nourishment, which we ate in an almost deserted Leicester Square. 

Once we had eaten we had our photos taken with Mr Bean and Paddington Bear, before heading along Irving Street and, after crossing Charing Cross Road, followed William IV Street to Strand. Again the roads were fairly clear, so we headed down Adam Street, where Keilyn had her photo taken outside the door of Number 10, before we turned down John Adam Street, heading for York Buildings.

At the end of York Buildings, on the left-hand side, is a lovely building which was the first home of GCHQ (Government Communications Headquarters). A green plaque, affixed to the wall, tells us this. However, if you look at the plaque closely, it contains a hidden message, that many people miss. Can you work it out?

We then entered Victoria Embankment Gardens, beside the York Watergate, and headed for Kippo's Coffee & Gelato, as I was in need of a coffee, while Keilyn was aching for a hot chocolate. With drinks in hand we walked along Victoria Embankment, before climbing the steps to Waterloo Bridge. Our vantage point from where we would watch the flypast.

As we still had time, we crossed the bridge and visited the National Theatre, checking out the view from its terraces and using the facilities. We then headed back up onto Waterloo Bridge, which was starting to fill up with people eager to see the flypast. We found a spot, almost in the centre of the bridge, and waited. I was glad that we had dressed for the weather, as the wind began to pick up and, off beyond Canary Wharf, we could see rain falling from the clouds. We all hoped that it would pass around us, which it did, fortunately. While we waited we took pleasure in waving at the tourists on the boats, passing below us, cheering when they waved back.

I had written a list of the order of the aeroplanes taking part in the flypast, which Keilyn read from as the BBMF Lancaster came into view. Then followed a Voyager and an A400m Atlas, a C-17 Globemaster III, a P-8 Poseidon with Two Typhoons, an RC-135 Rivet Joint with 2 F-35B Lightnings, the Red Arrows brought up the rear with 4 Typhoons.

The flypast took just over 5 minutes, but was really impressive to watch... and hear.