Lesnes Abbey, Bexley

The view across the Courtyard towards the Monk's Garden.

Lesnes Abbey.

In 1178, Richard de Luci founded Lesnes Abbey, probably as penance for his involvement in the death of the Archbishop Thomas Beckett, who had been murdered in Canterbury Cathedral, in 1170.

Richard de Luci was Lord of the Manor of Erith and Chief Justiciar of England, a post he shared with Robert de Beaumont, Earl of Leicester. Upon Robert's death, in 1168, Richard held the post alone until he stepped down in 1178. The Chief Justiciar was second only to the King of England, making it a powerful role.

Lesnes Abbey was dedicated to St Mary and St Thomas, the martyr, and belonged to the order of Augustinian canons whose duty it was to baptise, preach, give penance and bury the dead. Belonging to the Augustinian order the Abbey was never wealthy,  largely due to the expense of repairing and maintaining the adjacent river walls.

The Abbey was an impressive building, with huge columns supporting the high ceilings, while highly decorated tiles covered the floors of some of the rooms. 

Looking east along the Nave.

The most important areas of the Abbey were the church, the buildings around the cloister, the infirmary and the great court. It was in these areas that the monks (canons) lived and worked, looked after the sick, showed hospitality to guests, made contact with the outside world and carried out day-to-day administration of the monastery and its estates. These estates included the marshland that stretched north to the River Thames.

A spring-filled pond, situated close to the Monk's Garden, provided fresh water for the monastery.

Watford Metropolitan Underground station

Watford tube station.

Before we get started... I know that Watford is not in London. But, neither is Warner Bros Studios Tour London: The Making of Harry Potter. Nor are Gatwick, Southend, Stansted or Luton Airports, but they all have London in their name. There are countless more examples of this.

However, Watford is served by National Rail, the Lioness line and the Metropolitan line. It is also the station from where the majority of my trips to London begin.

So let's delve into its history.

Two different types of train at Platform 2.

By the early part of the 20th century, the Metropolitan line had already extended from London, through Hertfordshire, to Buckinghamshire, terminating at Verney Junction, Buckinghamshire.

In 1912 Parliamentary approval was granted for a branch line, between Sandy Lodge and Rickmansworth, that would serve Croxley and terminate at Watford.

However, clashes with Watford Borough Council and the outbreak of World War I delayed construction of the 2.5 mile branch line, with work finally beginning in 1922. As work progressed Sandy Lodge was renamed Moor Park and Sandy Lodge.

On November 2, 1925, Watford Metropolitan Railway station opened, and, in the first few months, was served by Metropolitan electric trains, to Baker Street, and LNER steam trains to Marylebone.

As the station was situated 1 mile from Watford Town Centre, the Metropolitan Railway operated a bus service from Watford High Street, in an effort to bring in more customers. This bus service ran for many years.

Celebrating 'Steam on the Met'.

The original 1912 plans, for the branch line, were to have continued the line through Cassiobury Park with a terminus on Hempstead Road, where West Herts College now stands. But, Watford Borough Council, having just bought part of the Cassiobury Estate, objected to trains running through the park and gardens.

Jamaica Wine House, City of London

Along St Michael's Alley, Cornhill, you will find this wonderful building called the Jamaica Wine House. It stands on the site of London's first coffee house, which, it turns out, was more than just a coffee house.

On what was part of the Cornhill Glebe land, land owned by the church to support a parish priest, the Jamaica Coffee House was established, by Pasqua Rosée. Pasqua Rosée was the servant of a merchant, named Daniel Edwards, who traded in Ottoman goods that included coffee. Edwards assisted Rosée in setting up the establishment to sell coffee, in 1652. This coffee house was one of the first places, in London, for people to experience coffee. 

Soon, the majority of its customers were concerned with trade in Jamaica, while financiers made up the rest. Not only was the coffee house used as a business address by traders, but also as a place where letters for Jamaica could be left and received.

The great Cornhill fire of 1748, which consumed over 100 houses, did 'but little damage' to the coffee house. 

In 1793 it was stated, in 'Roach's London Pocket Pilot or Stranger's Guide Through the Metropolis', that the best rum could be obtained at the 'Jamaica', and that 'one sees nothing but aquatic captains in the trade of that island'.

'Gorilla' by David Wynne

In Crystal Palace Park, beside the Lower Lake, stands a wonderful statue of a Gorilla, by David Wynne. The gorilla is shown on all fours as a way to convey the powerful majesty of the animal.

In 1959, London County Council, through its Patronage of the Arts scheme, commissioned David Wynne to create a large animal sculpture, to go with the spirit of the dinosaur and extinct species statues already in the park

Having studied zoology at the University of Cambridge, David Wynne chose 'Guy the Gorilla' as his subject. 

The sculpture was completed, in 1961, and unveiled near the Children's Zoo in 1962. The statue is still in place, even though the Children's Zoo closed in 1990.

'Settlers Monument', Virginia Quay

Not exactly hidden away, but not exactly on a main walking route, is the Virginia Quay Settlers Monument, standing proud on what was once Virginia Quay.

It was from near this spot, back on December 19-20 1606, that the first settlers of the Colony of Virginia departed for the New World. 

Led by Captain Christopher Newport and consisting of three ships: 'Discovery', 'Godspeed' and 'Susan Constant', 105 men and boys, plus 39 crew, set sail with a charter to establish a settlement in the Virginia territory. 

Unlike the later 'Mayflower' voyage, which took just ten weeks, this Virginia expedition took 21 weeks to find land suitable for colonisation. They named their colony Jamestown, in honour of King James I. Captain John Smith, Edward Maria Wingfield and Robert Hunt are credited with founding Jamestown, in April 1607. Captain John Smith, is best known for his association with the Native America Princess Pocahontas, who supposedly saved his life.

The settlement was, unfortunately, abandoned within three years, due, in part, to the settlers that were chosen for the expedition. Many were gentlemen, unused to working, while others were unused to farming. Famine and starvation brought an end to the settlement. 

Jamestown was later reoccupied but was abandoned again by 1699. Today, there is nothing left of the original settlement, besides a thriving tourist industry.

Crystal Palace Dinosaurs

Commissioned in 1852 and unveiled in 1854, the Crystal Palace Dinosaurs are the world's first dinosaur sculptures.

They were designed and sculpted by Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins, under the scientific direction of Sir Richard Owen. Sir Richard Owen is best known for coining the term 'Dinosauria'.

The sculptures also include other extinct animals and the collection is known as the 'Geological Court' or 'Dinosaur Court'.

By today's standards many of these sculptures are anatomically inaccurate. Many were sculpted on incorrectly assembled skeletons, showing the limit of 19th century scientific understanding. But, being the world's first, they paved the way for many of the advances in fossil understanding and palaeontology.

In 1952 a full restoration of the sculptures began, with some of the dinosaurs being moved. The sculptures were Grade II listed, in 1973. Between 2001-02 the sculptures were extensively restored, with fibreglass models replacing the more severely damaged ones. Some previous restorations had used lead, for the legs, linking these appendages to the bodies with iron rods. The iron had then corroded, causing more damage, resulting in new pieces to be cast. 

In 2007, the sculptures were Grade I listed.

Of the fifteen genera of extinct animals only three are true dinosaurs. The periods that are covered by the sculptures include the Palaeozoic, Mesozoic and Cenozoic.

In May of this year, Crystal Palace Park, the dinosaurs, playground, cafe and more began undergoing a multi-million pound refurbishment, which is due to be completed by summer 2026. The park is remaining open, but restrictions to certain areas may be in place.

'Timepiece Sundial' by Wendy Ann Taylor

The sundial is one of man's oldest astronomical instruments.

In this particular form, known as an Equinoctial Sundial, the dial is in the same plane as the Earth's equator and the gnomon, or rod, is parallel to the axis of the Earth pointing true north.

The shadow of the gnomon moving across the dial indicates the time. In summer the shadow falls on the face of the dial, in winter on the inner edge.

Free School, Rotherhithe

Peter Hills and Robert Bell founded the Free School in 1613, as a way to educate the children of impoverished seafarers and mariners.

Peter Hills died in 1614, leaving a sum of six pounds per year for the ongoing maintenance of the school. When it opened the school had just eight boys and is thought to be the first elementary school in London.

In the 1700s the free school raised new funds, as the six ponds per year was now insufficient to keep the school maintained. With new capital the school expanded, giving it room for 65 boys and 50 girls, too.

In 1739 an amicable fund was set up to supply funding to for an additional 12 boys.  

In 1742 it became known as the Charity School. The original building was on the northside of Saint Marychurch street, adjoining St Mary's church. 

Abney Park Cemetery, Stoke Newington

Abney Park Cemetery was the fourth of the eight private garden cemeteries, when it opened in 1840. It is situated in the grounds of Abney House which was once home to Isaac Watts.

For over 300,000 years people have gathered in this area, where Stone Age tools have been discovered along the banks of Hackney Brook.

It's modern roots go back to before the arrival of William the Conqueror, in 1066, when, as a small settlement, it was surrounded by land made up of fields.

In the 1600s wealthy families had large houses, with larger gardens, built here. These included Abney House and Fleetwood House. These houses were purchased by the Abney Park Cemetery Company, so that a garden cemetery could be built.

The cemetery was designed as an arboretum, botanical garden and park, as well as a place of remembrance. When it opened it had over 1,000 types of rose, from Hackney's Loddiges nursery, and 2,500 tree varieties.

By the 1960s the Cemetery Company, which had begun to lose income, leaving Abney Park to fall into neglect. Brambles, ivy and self-seeded trees allowed nature to take over.

Abney Park is now Grade II listed and is designated as a Local Nature Reserve.

The chapel was the first non-denominational cemetery chapel in Europe.

Abney Park Mortuary Chapel was designed by William Hosking and built by John Jay. The open part is where hearses brought the coffins, while inside a staircase led up to a gallery. The spire was the tallest, in the area, and could be seen from quite a distance.

It was designed in a style that was not related to any specific branch of Christianity, so that anyone could have their funeral held here. The chapel, like the cemetery, was never consecrated, making it a popular burial ground for Dissenters, especially after Bunhill Fields closed to burials.

By the 1960s the chapel was in a sorry state of disrepair, but it wouldn't be until 2017 when the roof could be repaired, following a grant from Historic England. 

The National Lottery Heritage fund gave funding for the rest of the building to be restored, between 2021-23. The stained-glass window, installed in 2021, was designed by Piotr Frac, who worked with local schools and community groups. The window represents nature in the four seasons.

In 1865 William and Catherine Booth founded the Salvation Army, so that they take God's salvation to the world.

When Catherine died, in 1890, she was buried at Abney Park. Other early leaders of the Salvation Army, including George Scott Railton and Elijah Cadman, were also buried here.

When General William Booth died, in 1912, he was buried beside his wife in one of the largest funerals London had ever seen. William and Catherine are laid to rest surrounded by the graves of many of their children.

Today, there are over 130 Salvationists buried at Abney Park.

This War Memorial was built in 1927, by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission to commemorate over 150 Commonwealth servicemen and women by name. Another 71 names were added following World War II.

There are 375 service personnel remembered at Abney Park, with over 140 in marked graves scattered throughout the park. Some of these have the distinctive Commonwealth War Graves Commission headstones.

'Dick Whittington's Cat' statue and the 'Whittington Stone'

On Highgate Hill there is a stone with a statue of a cat, protected behind an iron cage.

This is the Whittington Stone and Dick Whittington's Cat.

The Whittington Stone

The Whittington Stone is a large two-segment Portland Stone tablet, erected in 1821, and marks, roughly, where Dick Whittington supposedly turned at the sound of the bells of St Mary-le-Bow.

The stone was restored in 1935.

The Cat statue was added in 1964 and was designed by Jonathan Kenworthy and is made of Kellymount limestone. It was originally polished-black.

On its two faces are inscriptions of the life of Dick Whittington. The inscription on one side has been completely eroded, but some of the inscription can still be read on the other face.

Dick Whittington and His Cat

Dick Whittington and His Cat is an English folklore telling the rise of poverty-stricken Dick Whittington, who sold his cat to a rat infested country, to attain a fortune.

Another story tells of his heading home to Highgate Hill, but stopping when he heard the sound of Bow Bells, some 4.5 miles away, promising him that he would be mayor of London, one day.

23-24 Leinster Gardens (False Houses)

A real house (left) and a fake house (right).

Leinster Gardens, Bayswater, is a wonderful place to find mid-Victorian terraced houses, lining the majority of one side of the road. Some of these buildings are listed as Grade II or Grade II*, including the 'Leinster Arms' public house.

However, midway along the western side there are some false houses, which are barely distinguishable from the other homes along the street. It is not until you get up close to them that these false facades are more noticeable.

Unlike the homes either side of numbers 23-24, these buildings have fake doors with no letter boxes and the windows are painted a grey colour. 

The facades match perfectly with the rest of the terrace, including balustraded balconies, above columned porches, that are shared with their neighbours.

Watch House, Rotherhithe

This Watch House, on St Marychurch Street, was used by Watchmen in the 19th century. 

Constructed in 1821 it was built as a twin to the Old Rotherhithe Fire Engine House, just a bit further along Saint Marychurch Street.

It has a single floor, above ground, and a basement level, which contained a cell.

The Watchmen who were stationed here would patrol the local area in an effort to deter criminal activity. If a watchman found someone acting suspiciously they would be brought back to the Watch House, where they were kept in a cell until either being discharged or imprisoned.

This particular Watch House backs on to St Mary's Churchyard. One of the jobs watchmen were called upon to undertake was the protection of the dead. Bodysnatchers, or 'Resurrection Men' as they were known, who stole corpses for for medical research at Guy's Hospital, often visited graveyards in an attempt to find 'fresh' bodies.

The former burial ground is now St Mary's Churchyard Gardens, and the Watch House is now the Watchhouse Cafe. 

The building is Grade II listed.

Charles 'Charlie' Rouse, circa 1850.

Being a Watchmen was originally an unpaid civic duty for the local townspeople. Eventually it would become a 'profession', with Watchmen receiving a small sum for their time.

Their local parish would set down the routes that were to be followed, which they would patrol from 21:00 to 06:00. 

They were known to call out the time and weather every hour, check for fires, ensure that the village folk had locked their doors, among other things. Occasionally, townsfolk would pay the Watchmen a small sum of money to act as a walking alarm clock, waking those that had paid at a specific time.

There are still some similar Watch Houses in and around London. like the one above which is at St Matthew's Church Gardens, Bethnal Green.

Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum

I have known about the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum but never had the time to visit it, Keilyn and I rectified this, on Sunday (September 1), by paying it a visit.

We were greeted at the gate by a friendly volunteer who explained about the museum, how it was run (and by whom) and what there was to see. She also informed us that the Marshall Steam Engine would be fired up at noon and again at two o'clock. With this information Keiyn and I thanked her and set off to explore the exhibits.

Of course, the first thing that Keilyn headed to was the 1967 Stock Victoria line carriage, jumping straight into the driver's cab. While Keilyn pressed buttons and pulled levers, I inspected the second of the Victoria line tube carriages. 

Eventually I convinced Keilyn to come out of the train, promising that we would return to it, so that we could explore more of the museum.

We spotted an old Bedford lorry in a garage which was opposite the Fire Museum. As took a photo Keilyn went into the Fire Museum, having spotted a fire engine. I went in a different door, where I found some vintage fire appliances, tools of the trade, memorabilia and much more. 

Oddly, hanging from the ceiling were two large models aeroplanes. One of a Mosquito, the other a Lancaster Bomber.

I then went into the second part of the museum, where I found Keilyn checking out an amazing collection of toy vehicles, all of which were fire related. A few of them I recognised as toys that I had played with as a child. Firemen's uniforms, from overseas, were displayed in a large cabinet, while another cabinet was filled with all types of fire extinguisher.

The largest exhibit was the fire engine, which was used in the first few seasons of the television series 'London's Burning', which was cool to see.

Walking with Keilyn: Walthamstow to Hackney Marshes... and beyond

Looking north along the River Lea.

Sunday September 1, 2024.

Today was the last chance for Keilyn and I to make a walk around London, before she heads back to school on Wednesday.

So, after having to plan a new route, due to certain lines being closed, we set off on the London Overground (Lioness line) to Euston, where we changed to the Victoria line to Blackhorse Road.

From here it was just a short walk south on Blackhorse Road to St James Road, then Station Road, before turning right on Markhouse Avenue.

Presently we came to our first visit of the day... Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum. We were greeted by one of the volunteers who explained that the museum is free to enter, run by volunteers and makes its money through donations and the hiring of some of its exhibits. 

Keilyn in the cab of one of the 1967 Stock Victoria line trains.

Our first stop was to the two 1967 Stock Victoria line carriages, with Keilyn heading straight to the driver's cab. Buttons were pushed and levers were twisted and I didn't think I was going to get her out of there.

Overseas Fire Memorabilia.

Eventually, I convinced her to leave the train and to explore more of the site. So, we headed to the Fire Museum. For its small size this museum packs quite a lot of memorabilia, appliances, badges, uniforms and much more into the space. 

As seen in 'London's Burning'.

The fire engine was the one used in the early seasons of the TV series 'London's Burning', which was quite cool to see.

The Marshall steam engine.

From here we headed to 'The Engine Shed', where various engines and pumps were displayed, some of which were working, before we entered the Grade II listed Victorian pumping station, which houses two Marshall steam engines and a collection of of smaller engines and pumps. It was fascinating to read the history of the items and to see these marvels up close. At noon one of the Marshall steam engines was set running, which was a joy to behold.

Liverpool Street to Chingford line.

In the Boiler House, accessed from the main pumphouse, a model railway had been built, with its various engines running along the tracks. It is based on the Liverpool Street to Chingford line and was very impressive to behold. 

Fire Engine House, Rotherhithe

This front wall is all that remains of the Old Rotherhithe Village Fire Engine House, which was built in 1821. It forms a pair with the nearby Watch House, both of which are on Saint Marychurch Street, and back on to a lovely green oasis, called St Mary's Churchyard Gardens.

This engine house once housed firemen and a single hand-operated wheeled fire engine. It must have been a small appliance as the entrance takes up a third of the wall, while two small windows take up the rest.

A fire appliance was kept here until the 1870s.

Although only a facade, now, I am still glad that it remains in situ, as part of the wall surrounding St Mary's Churchyard Gardens.

St George's Garrison Church, Woolwich

St George's Garrison Church.

I had read quite a bit about St George's Garrison Church and its history, but I had never been to visit it, until now.

As it is only open to the public on Sundays, unless for an exhibition or special event, it has always been difficult to find the time to get there. Fortunately, I was in the area as I had just visited Severndroog Castle, just down the road, which has a viewing platform that is only accessible on, you guessed it, a Sunday.

One of the church gates.

It was beautiful noon day as Keilyn and I wandered through the gates into the garden of this ruined church, the sun illuminating the gold mosaic above the altar, ahead of us. The canopy, above the remains, filtered the light making the whole place glow.

The canopy protecting the ruins.

The mosaics are stunning, with the St George mosaic being my favourite along with the Victoria Cross Memorial.

The mosaics glinting in the diffused light.

The walls, pillars and columns are all still in place creating a wonderful place to reflect.

Southwark Park

The Caryatids of the Old Rotherhithe Town Hall.

Opening to the public on June 19, 1869, Southwark Park covers 26 hectares and is Grade II listed. It stretches from Jamaica Road, to the north, to Hawkstone Road in the southeast.

Southwark Park, has two entrances on Jamaica Road, Christchurch Gate, named after a nearby church, and Paradise Gate. Christchurch Gate was designated an entrance in 1903, but following damage in World War II it was replaced with a new gate, modelled on the original, thanks to the Heritage Lottery Fund restoration in 2001-2002.

Southwark Park Bandstand.

Entering through Christchurch Gate the path divides, with one that leads you on a tree-lined avenue around the park, while the other leads you to the Bandstand. This Bandstand was acquired, in 1884, from the Great Exhibition in South Kensington and placed in the park. During the summer months free concerts are held here.

Caryatids. One representing Oak and the other Laurel.

Continuing south from the Bandstand you suddenly come across some stone pillars, hidden among the trees. These are Caryatids that originally flanked the the main entrance of the old Rotherhithe Town Hall. They were placed here in 2011. Continuing on there are tennis courts to the west, while a bowls club, hidden behind manicured hedges, takes up a small area at the centre of the park. 

Memorial to a working-class man.

Then there is the polished grey granite Jabez West Drinking Fountain, which is a memorial to a working-class man. 

A simple gate.

Jamaica Gate stands at the west end of Carriage Drive, which now divides the park into separate spaces.