London's Mews

London's Mews: From Stables to Private Residences

With over 2,000 years of history, London is an intricate lattice of architectural marvels. A place where the Roman, Medieval, Norman, Gothic, Tudor, Elizabethan, Georgian, Regency, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Modernist and Brutalist can all be found.

Often you can find two, three or four architectural styles standing beside each other, with centuries separating the styles. A prime example of this is St Andrew Undershaft church, which was built between 1520-1532, standing almost next door to 30 St Mary Axe (the Gherkin), which was built between 2001-2003.

Euston Arch

Euston Arch (Image Public Domain)

Robert Stephenson planned the terminus for the London to Birmingham Railway to be constructed at Euston, replacing the old terminus at Chalk Farm. 

When the station opened, in July 1837, it had two platforms with each being 420 ft (128 m) long. A double train shed, designed by Charles Fox, that was 200 ft (60 m) long, with 40 ft (12 m) spans. Six trains ran each day from Euston to Watford and Boxmoor. 

On September 17, 1838, the final 112 miles (180 km) to Birmingham were completed. However, steam trains did not have the power to make the steep incline up to Camden Town and so required help. This took the form of the trains out of Euston being attached to a 3 inch, 1430 ft (4370 m) long rope, affixed to two 60 horsepower stationary steam engines. Euston-bound trains had their engines detached at Camden Town, with the carriages continuing the journey under the charge of the brakemen.

Camley Street Natural Park, St Pancras

Having walked the length of the Regent's Canal and having visited Gasholders Park and Coal Drops Yard, on numerous occasions, I had seen Camley Street Natural Park from the canal towpath, but had never explored it. This had to be rectified.

So, it was while out walking with Keilyn that we decided to go for an exploratory of the park, to see what was there. Crossing the Regent's Canal, via the Somers Town Bridge, we headed through the giant iron gates and into the covered seating area of the park.

Walking around the cafe and learning centre we made our way to the entrance of the reserve and began our exploration.

The path was compacted and strong and bordered by low, wooden borders that separated the footpath from the wild meadows and ponds. Information boards, spread sporadically around the site, showed the fauna and flora that could be spotted throughout the year. Unfortunately, our visit took place at the beginning of March, so much of the wildlife was absent, giving the place a truly tranquil feel.

The path soon joined wooden walkways, which allowed water to flow beneath them from the interconnecting ponds and the Regent's Canal.

Seating area, either on the banks of the Regent's Canal or in small clearings gave ample space to sit and take in the peace.

We explored the ponds, seeing only coots, mallards and moorhens, while blackbirds, great tits, long-tailed tits, magpies, pigeons and robins flew between the trees.

The sound of skittering, through fallen leaves, could have been wood mice or other small rodents, but there was nothing that we could see.

Logs, piled up in various locations, and bug hotels seemed quiet, with their inhabitants buried in the soil or deep inside the rotting wood.

The ponds, with their crystal clear waters, seemed devoid of life, too.

Various ferns, planted in a stumpery, were still growing, while many other plants were yet to bloom.

Once we had seen everything that we could we made our way out of the park, promising to come back later in the year to see what wildlife may have taken up residence.

Walking with Keilyn: St John's Wood to Camley Street Natural Park... and beyond

Gasholder Park.

Sunday March 2, 2025.

Keilyn decided that since she had missed out on Friday's walk, we should head to London for the day, so off we set.

Taxi to Watford Metropolitan station and a train to Finchley Road. Then two stops on the Jubilee line to St John's Wood, was how the walk began.

Keilyn at the former Marlborough Road station.

Exiting the station we walked up Finchley Road, to the former underground station that is Marlborough Road, before heading east along Queen's Grove, on to Elsworthy Road, then Elsworthy Terrace which brought us to Primrose Hill.

The view from Primrose Hill.

We then followed the path to the viewing point and took in the amazing views of London. The hazy clouds had dispersed allowing us to see everything that the city had to offer: The Clock Tower, in Caledonian Park, Camden Lock, Canary Wharf, St Pancras station, the Gherkin, St Paul's Cathedral, The Shard, Centre Point, BT Tower, the Snowdon Aviary at London Zoo, London Eye, Palace of Westminster, Crystal Palace Tower, Westminster Cathedral and so much more.

Once we had seen everything, and taken lots of photos and videos, we continued east, exiting Primrose Hill via the Primrose Hill Road exit and, after crossing Regent's Park Road, headed along Rothwell Street to Chalcot Crescent. 

Keilyn at the home of Paddington Bear.

Chalcot Crescent is full of houses, many painted in pastel colours, but we were here to see one particular house... number 30. This is the house that Paddington Bear lives in with the Brown family, in the Paddington Bear movies. After the obligatory photo of Keilyn, outside the house, we made our way back to Regent's Park Road, which we followed until we reached 'The Little One' coffee shop, where we purchased drinks: Hot chocolate and a latte.

The former Primrose Hill station and the Camden Roundhouse.

We then continued along Regent's Park Road until it brought us to Haverstock Hill and Chalk Farm Road, passing the Camden Roundhouse and Camden Stables Market. On reaching Camden High Street we dropped down onto the Regent's Canal towpath, following the meandering canal to Gasholder Park, at St Pancras Basin.

Camley Street Natural Park Pond.

Since we had made good time we decided to cross Somers Town Bridge so that we could explore Camley Street Natural Park. The park, set across 2 acres, is a wildlife habit that includes wetlands and meadows and is home to a wide variety of fauna and flora. 

'Windrush & Commonwealth NHS Nurses and Midwives Statue' by Dr Jak Beula

At the entrance to the Whittington Hospital, on Magdala Avenue, there is a stylised mother and child statue.

It depicts a mother cradling her newborn baby, with the mother wearing a nurses' fob watch.

This unique statue was commissioned to commemorate the extraordinary efforts of the some 40,000 Windrush and Commonwealth NHS nurses and midwives, who came to the UK between 1948 and 1973 in order to help the newly created NHS.

The statue consists of 16 pieces of granite and is 2.1m in height, width and depth and cost £100,000.

It was unveiled on Friday September 10, 2021.

A worn brass plaque reads:

'The Windrush & Commonwealth NHS Nurses and Midwives Statue' was conceived and designed by Johnny Alexander Bebeula Dodd, aka Dr Jak Beula. 

He named the piece "NICU Suite 16" because of the 16 pieces of granite used to create the statue. 

It is dedicated to all Commonwealth National Health Service staff, notably Nurses and Midwives from Africa and the Caribbean, who have worked in the NHS since its foundation in 1948. 

The Nubian Jak Community Trust thanks Whittington Health NHS Trust and Islington Council for supporting this NHS Memorial. 

Special thanks to Islington BH365, Haringey Council, Ernst & young, Arsenal Football Club, Entain PLC, Havas Group, Aviva, Crowdfunder UK and the generous donations from nursing organisations and the general public for the successful delivery of this statue. May she be a source of inspiration to all NHS staff and provide light,  hope and pride to those who come into contact with this memorial.

Walking with family and friends: King's Cross to Hampstead Heath... and beyond

Saturday January 18, 2025.

Keilyn and I headed off to London, earlier than usual, as we were to meet my friend who was travelling to King's Cross from Peterborough.

As we reached Northwick Park Keilyn took a photo of one of only four remaining K8 telephone boxes left on the London Underground.

Our timing was almost perfect with Keilyn and I exiting onto King's Cross plaza just ten minutes after Gary. After a walk through St Pancras International we began our walk. 

We headed north along Midland Road and onto Pancras Road, where we stopped at St Pancras Old Church to see the remains of the Hardy Tree. The graves that the ash once stood over are now covered in weeds, while the Hardy Tree lies in pieces on the grass. Such a loss.

We left St Pancras Gardens and followed Camley Street which led us to Murray Street, our route taking us ever northward. Camden Square brought us onto Camden Road, where we turned onto Royal College Street. It was here we discovered 'Dots Music'. The steps, to the shop, were painted like piano keys, so Keilyn pretended to play them.

Up Royal College Street we went, before finding ourselves on Kentish Town Road where we stopped to grab a hot drink each, from an independent coffee stall.

After spotting a camel, on Highgate Road, we noticed a LFB Fire Investigation van, with its occupant in a white coverall, which fascinated Keilyn. We passed Parliament Hill School and William Ellis School, before we turned in to Hampstead Heath, where school children of all ages were playing rugby, while their parents watched on. Other people were using the running track as we dodged the joggers and dog walkers.

We left Hampstead Heath, via Savernake Bridge, and headed along Roderick Road, at the end of which, on the other side of Mansfield Road, was the London School of Mosaic, which is situated in 'Waxham House'. It was here that we made the mistake of turning left, following Mansfield Road onto Gordon House Road. Eventually we reached Highgate Road, where we turned left. Keilyn started laughing as we approached a LFB Fire Investigation van, with its occupant in a white coverall, as she had realised, long before us, that we had taken so many left turns that we had completed a circle!

Walking with Erin and Keilyn: Euston to Canopy Market... and beyond

Sunday December 1, 2024.

It was an overcast morning as Erin, Keilyn and I prepared for our trip to London. Our plan was to visit St Pancras International, as my girls wanted to see the giant Emerald City Christmas tree, from the movie 'Wicked', which they went to see last week.

As we were about to leave rain, which had been threatening, decided to pour from the sky, so a taxi was ordered.

We decided that, for a change, we would take the Lioness line to Euston, as Keilyn and I had been waiting for the new signage to be unveiled.

Once aboard we sat down and watched as the rain began to diminish the closer we got to our destination. And, sure enough, as we exited Euston station the rain had all but stopped, making our short walk to St Pancras International a drier affair.

Once inside we headed through the crowds towards the giant Emerald City tree, taking lots of photos, before we took the escalator up to the next level, so that we could get a different view of it. 

We then went for a wander to see the statue of Sir John Betjeman and the Meeting Place statue, which towers over the upper concourse.

We then used the lift and went for a proper look at the tree, which has a model of Oz inside it. 

More photos were taken before we headed towards the eastern exit, where we discovered life-size models of Glinda and Elphaba, which were made of Lego.

On leaving St Pancras International we crossed Regent's Canal and reached Granary Square, heading off towards Canopy Market, in search of some lunch. After a brief look at what was on offer, Erin decided on a Cheese Burger, made with dry age beef, with cheddar cheese and ketchup. Erin decided against having the pickles and mustard. 

With Erin waiting in line for her food to be prepared, Keilyn and I went and ordered a coffee and hot chocolate.

When Erin had received her food, we found a table, where Erin and Keilyn sat, while I went to get food for Keilyn and myself. Keilyn decided to have Duck Fat Chips (freshly cut potatoes, double fried with a drizzle of duck fat), while I had the Petit Prince Burger (Brioche bun, butter infused grilled duck, stilton, gherkins, fried onion and burger sauce).

Walking with family: Day 2 - Archway to Highgate Cemetery... and beyond

Thursday August 15, 2024.

It was an early start... but not by design.

Just after 06:00 Erin, who was already awake, along with Keilyn, said that she could hear running water. So, up I got to check the bathroom, without turning on the light so as not to wake Emma. I checked the sink tap... nothing. Bath tap... nothing. Shower head... nothing, but I could hear water dripping. As I moved my hand along the bath I felt a drop of water hit my head. Sure enough water was dripping through the light fitting. Damn. I was going to have to wake Emma.

With us all awake and the girls getting dresses, Emma and I went down to reception and notified the Duty Manager. He travelled up in the lift, with us, and headed to the sixth floor to check the room above. A few minutes later he arrived at our room to inspect the leak. There was nothing untoward in the room above, so the leak must be coming from another room. He immediately put our worries behind us by assuring us that we were in no danger, but still offered us another room for our trouble. We declined this as we would be checking out after breakfast. The only thing we were upset about was not enjoying the bed for long enough. Premier Inn beds are the most comfortable that we have ever slept in.

I would just like to say that all of the staff were excellent and dealt with the issue professionally. We have stayed at many Premier Inns, not just in London but across the country, and this is the first time we have ever had an issue. This will not put us off using them again.

So, we headed down for an early breakfast and enjoyed everything that was on offer. Suitably full we headed to our room, collected our things and checked out. We informed the man at reception that we were checking out, so that if they needed to check the ceiling, the room was free.

On leaving the hotel we made our way down Junction Road, checking out the Charity Shops, before stopping at Starbucks, which is in an old pub, for some caffeine.

Suitably caffeined up we crossed Junction Road to Navigator Square and began our walk.

Heading up Archway Road I took lots of photos of the derelict Archway Campus, which began its life as The Holborn and Finsbury Union Workhouse Infirmary, which was built between 1877-79. It is a wonderful building that needs to be protected.

Keilyn spotted a mural and I took her photo with it, before I wandered off ahead to take a photo of Highgate Archway. 

This iron viaduct, built in 1900, although impressive, is not a patch on the original Roman-style viaduct, designed by John Nash in 1813.

We then turned down Waterlow Road, which brought us on to Highgate Hill. A little further on and the impressive St Joseph's Roman Catholic Church towered over the surrounding buildings.

It was here that we entered Waterlow Park, where, once the facilities were used, we sat in the shade, while Erin and Keilyn took to the playground.

Suitably rested we continued the short distance to Swain's Lane and Highgate Cemetery.

Our tour began at 12:00 with our guide, Nigel, explaining, in brief, the history of the cemetery, before our group headed up the Colonnade Path and into the heart of the West Cemetery. The tour lasted a full 90 minutes and we saw and learned a lot. We visited the graves of Thomas Sayers, Elizabeth Jackson, George Michael, Michael Faraday, Alexander Litvinenko and so many more, learning interesting facts about each one.

To see more photographs from the West Cemetery click the link below.

West Cemetery Gallery

'Light Tunnel'

King's Cross Light Tunnel.

I had heard, and seen images, of the Light Tunnel at King's Cross station, but had yet to see it.

Considering its location, linking King's Cross with St Pancras International stations it also guides visitors towards Granary Square and the markets, restaurants and shops near Coal Drops Yard, it wasn't the easiest thing to find. 

I entered it by using the entrance from King's Boulevard, which, I think, is a better way to first experience the light installation.

Colour-changing LED screens.

Using the King's Boulevard entrance to the King's Cross underground station really sets the mood for what you are going to see.

Model Railway at King's Cross station 'Family Lounge'

A model of the 'Mallard' steam locomotive.

Recently I have been using King's Cross station a lot more, as I have been travelling to Peterborough to see friends. Or, waiting there for friends to arrive. Either way I have been visiting around King's Cross station more than usual. 

Of course, there is the architecture of the station, but I have found the family room to be a quiet place to relax, while waiting for trains to arrive or depart.

Some of the detailed model buildings.

The family lounge has seating, a soft play area for the little ones, comfy seats, table top games and screens, showing what it is like to drive the LNER Azuma train, and display cabinets with models of the 'Flying Scotsman' steam locomotive.

But its main attraction has to be the giant Hornby model railway, that takes centre stage of the lounge. With its intricate detailing, different models of the LNER fleet, plus models of the 'Mallard' and 'Flying Scotsman'.

Macclesfield Bridge: Or, the 'Blow Up' Bridge

Approaching the 'Blow Up' Bridge, from the west.

I have walked Regent's Canal on many an occasion, passing beneath bridges and through tunnels, but one bridge stands out from the rest. Not because it is ornate or is the oldest, but because it had to be replaced after it was blown up, by accident.

The barge 'Tilbury' was one of six barges being pulled along Regent's Canal by a steam tug, destined for the Midlands. Its cargo contained coffee, nuts, barrels of petroleum and about five tons of gunpowder. It is believed that one of the people onboard 'Tilbury' struck a match, just before 05:00 on the morning of Friday October 2, 1874, just as they were passing below the Georgian Macclesfield Bridge.

Walking with friends: King's Cross to Camden... and beyond

Canalside Green Steps.

Monday April 1, 2024.

As it was Easter Bank Holiday Monday, my friend Steve and I decided to take a trip to London, specifically to visit the regenerated King's Cross area and then to see where our feet led us.

Our journey began from from Watford Metropolitan station straight to King's Cross, taking less than an hour.

Exiting King's Cross station we headed into St Pancras International, so that I could point out the free jukebox and the model of 'HMS Alice Liddell' to Steve, who had never seen them before. This took us out onto Battle Bridge Place, where children and families were enjoying the IFO (Bird Cage), and we took a left up King's Boulevard towards Regent's Canal and Granary Square.

The first coffee van that we stopped at was having an issue with their machine, so we crossed to Granary Square, where we discovered 'Matchado'. This was a revelation as this little van, near Granary Square, is London's first Matcha specialist café, specialising in Japanese Matcha and hand-crafted special Matcha sweets. Steve opted for a latte, while I had a Sencha green tea. Both were excellent.

London's first Matcha specialist café.

From here we began our wander by heading to Coal Drops Yard, then Stable Street, which was full of food, clothing and jewellery stalls, before turning west to see Gasholder Park. 

Gasholder Park.

Then we headed through Lewis Cubitt Square and Lewis Cubitt Park, before heading down York Way, so that I could see the old York Road underground station. This station opened in 1906 and was closed in 1932.

York Road station (disused).

We then turned down Handyside Street and into the Granary Square building. The architecture of this building, including its interior, is something to behold. These Victorians warehouses and ancillary buildings were obviously built to last and I am glad that the regeneration of the area has saved as many of these buildings as possible.

Inside the Granary Square building.

After this we found ourselves in a wonderful canopied area full of market stalls.

Canopy Market, where there is something for everyone.

After a good peruse of the stalls, where artists, jewellers, seamstresses and more were displayed their wares, we decided it was time for a spot of lunch. And there was much to choose from. Rice dishes, oysters, burgers, Thai noodles, Indian dishes, pastries and so much more. In the end we decided to try 'The Frenchie', who was selling duck burgers.

We did duck ourselves.