On Tour: York, Day 1

Welcome to the first in a series of blogs about my visit to the historic city of York, this past weekend.

Eboracum was originally founded in AD 71, by the Roman Ninth Legion who had conquered the Brigantes Tribe. On its founding it became the Roman capital for Britannia inferior. 

Following the Roman withdrawal from Britain it became the capital of the kingdoms of Deira, Northumbria, and Scandinavian York.

During the Middle Ages, AD 735, York became the centre for the northern England ecclesiastical province, covering the northern third of England and the Isle of Man, consisting of 14 dioceses.

During the nineteenth century York became a major railway hub and a centre for the manufacturing of confectionery.

Today, York is a bustling Cathedral City covering an area of 33.7 km2 (13.0 sq mi). To put this into context, my hometown of Watford has an area of 21.5 km2 (8.3 sq mi), while London has an area of 1,572 km2 (607 sq mi). It is home to many historical buildings, streets and the Minster.

For the long weekend of Friday March 6 to Monday March 9, York would be where Emma and myself would be staying, as it was a place that neither of had visited. Our friend Steve was looking after Erin and Keilyn, at our house, for the weekend.

Friday March 6, 2026.

We left Watford via Watford Junction, taking a National Rail train to Euston. From there we walked the short distance to King's Cross station, stopping to grab some food from the Market on King's Cross Square.

We then made our way into the station and waited for the platform allocation to be announced, before heading through the ticket barriers to platform 3. After stowing our luggage we took our reserved seats and sat back and enjoyed the smooth ride to North Yorkshire.

Walking alone: Bromley-by-Bow to Aldgate... and beyond

Bow Creek & The River Lea (left) and Limehouse Cut (right).

Wednesday March 11, 2026. 

Clear skies, with light winds, 13°C (55°F).

Having spent the four days exploring York I was eager to get back to exploring London. 

Up early I accompanied Keilyn to school and then continued on to Croxley station, where I boarded a semi-fast Aldgate-bound train. As we zipped through the countryside and then into London's outer suburbs I was still deciding on where to go. With so many options running through my mind I finally settled on changing to a Hammersmith & City line train, at Moorgate, which I took to Bromley-by-Bow. I had picked this as a starting point as I had never been there before, but I also knew that there would be some interesting things to discover.

Alighting from the train and exiting the station I made my way through the underpass, where I stopped at a convenience shop to purchase a drink, before heading south along the Blackwall Tunnel North Approach and turning onto Twelvetrees Crescent.

Bromley-by-Bow Gasworks Memorial Gardens.

I passed over the River Lea and Bow Creek, with Bow Locks to the south, while ahead of me I could see the seven Grade II listed gasholders that are carefully being preserved. To the north of these gasholders lies the Channelsea River and Prescott Channel, where some of the stones from the Euston Doric Arch were disposed of. 

As the road turned south I noticed a lawn, surrounded by trees at the centre of which were white stone memorials, a statue and a gas lamp. This is the Bromley-by-Bow Gasworks Memorial Garden. Considering I was pretty much in an industrial park, with lorries trundling by, it was very peaceful.

Looking north along Bow Creek.

After taking some photographs I headed back to Twelvetrees Crescent and decided to drop down onto the River Lea path, heading south along the Limehouse Cut. I followed the river as far as Upper North Street, where I decided to leave the towpath as I have visited Limehouse on countless occasions.

Euston Arch

Euston Arch (Image Public Domain)

Robert Stephenson planned the terminus for the London to Birmingham Railway to be constructed at Euston, replacing the old terminus at Chalk Farm. 

When the station opened, in July 1837, it had two platforms with each being 420 ft (128 m) long. A double train shed, designed by Charles Fox, that was 200 ft (60 m) long, with 40 ft (12 m) spans. Six trains ran each day from Euston to Watford and Boxmoor. 

On September 17, 1838, the final 112 miles (180 km) to Birmingham were completed. However, steam trains did not have the power to make the steep incline up to Camden Town and so required help. This took the form of the trains out of Euston being attached to a 3 inch, 1430 ft (4370 m) long rope, affixed to two 60 horsepower stationary steam engines. Euston-bound trains had their engines detached at Camden Town, with the carriages continuing the journey under the charge of the brakemen.

Goodwin's Court, Covent Garden

Goodwin's Court from the St Martin's Lane end.

Goodwin's Court is a small alley that runs between St Martin's Lane and Bedfordbury, in WC2. Unlike many of the other alleyways in this part of the metropolis, this alley appears, at least on its south side, untouched by redevelopment. For it is on its south side that a row of buildings with bow fronted windows stand.

Entering Goodwin's Court, from St Martin's Lane, three concrete steps lead you through a low-roofed arch from a fairly modern road back to a bygone era. The alleyway, a public highway, has residents and, at its Bedfordbury end, a restaurant. Walking along it in the daylight allows you to see the beauty of the buildings and allows you to appreciate the whole alley. Goodwin's Court is 280 feet (85 metres) long and 6.5 feet (2 metres) wide.

Goodwin's Court from the Bedfordbury end.

However, walking along it in the evening time, where the gas-fuelled lamps offer soft lighting, the court becomes so much more atmospheric.

Holborn Viaduct

Holborn Viaduct, from the north.

Holborn Viaduct was designed by the City Surveyor, William Heywood, as a way to connect Holborn with Newgate Street, over the Fleet valley.

Work began in 1863 and took six years to complete, at a cost of around £2.5 million. It is 1,440 feet (438 metres) long and 80 feet (24 metres) wide.