Monday, February 17, 2025

Elsyng Spital Church Tower

Elsyng Spital Church Tower
Elsyng Spital Church Tower.

The City of London is full of churches. Some are still in use, while others are ruins. Some of these ruins have been turned into pocket gardens, where people can go to escape the bustle of the city. Others, like Elsyng Spital Church Tower, have been left as they are.

I like that places like this have been left, rather than bulldozed, now standing alongside the new office blocks which, no doubt, won't last as long.

This is all that remains of the tower of the church of the medieval hospital of Elsyng Spital. 
 
Elsyng Spital Church Tower
The entrance to the church was through the archway on the right.
 

Thursday, February 13, 2025

'Sam' the Cat

Sam the Cat statue, Queen Square

London is full of statues of monarchs, politicians, generals, soldiers, horses, wild animals and lots more. The ones that I love discovering, though, are the smaller, lesser known ones... such as this one.

This statue depicts a cat poised to jump from a brick wall, possibly to land on an unsuspecting bird or mouse. Sam was a real cat and he was commissioned to recognise his owner, Patricia Penn. 

Monday, February 10, 2025

Bow Creek Lighthouse: London's Only Lighthouse

Bow Creek Lighthouse


On the Leamouth Peninsula, where the River Thames and Bow Creek meet, lies Trinity Buoy Wharf, in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

The site was used by the Brethren of Trinity House, now known as Corporation of Trinity House, from 1803, with the sea wall being constructed in 1822.

Bow Creek Lighthouses
A photo of both lighthouses, circa 1900s.

Originally there were two lighthouses, with one being built in 1852, by James Walker, and the other between 1864-1866, by James Douglas. The former was demolished in the 1920s, while the latter one still stands today.

Both lighthouses were used to train lighthouse keepers and for testing lighting systems, not for their true purpose as the River Thames is not that dangerous a stretch of water.

The original lantern, at the top of the lighthouse, came from the Paris Exposition of 1867, where Trinity House had demonstrated improved systems of electric lighting for lighthouses.

Michael Faraday's Workshop

Michael Faraday set up a workshop, next door to the lighthouse, and carried out experiments here, discovering the principles underlying electromagnetic induction, electrolysis and diamagnetism.

Sunday, February 09, 2025

2024: A Year in Review

A view across the River Thames

Looking back at my travels, throughout 2024, I visited some historic places, iconic landmarks, museums and some interesting, unique and quirky places.

From Battersea to Woolwich and Highgate to Elephant and Castle, plus many points in-between, I, often with family and friends, walked a distance of over 140 miles and travelled over 700 miles, via London Underground. Plus, there were the buses, cable car, Overground and National Rail, which add more to the total.

Below I have listed some of these walks, although there were many others.

A Slice of Reality by Richard Wilson

The year began with a walk from North Greenwich to Canada Water, taking the Thames Path for much of the route. Sculptures and historic buildings lined our way, with a lunch break at Greenwich Market and a drink at 'The Victoria', Deptford.

Shoreditch Train Carriages

In February some friends and I walked from King's Cross to Wapping and back to Aldgate. We visited 'The Blind Beggar', where we met Vas Blackwood, before heading through Shadwell to 'Turner's Old Star', before heading through Wapping to 'The Prospect of Whitby'. We then made our way back, via St Katharine Docks, to Aldgate.

The Wallace Collection

Erin joined me for my next trip, where we visited 'The Wallace Collection', at Hertford House, before having lunch at a 'Wok to Walk' and then visiting 'Liberty' and taking a meandering walk to Great Portland Street, via the BT Tower.

Keilyn at the Cart and Horses

Late February saw Keilyn and I heading to Stratford to visit 'The Cart and Horses', birthplace of Iron Maiden, before we headed back to the City of London, visiting the 'Bank of England Museum'. Torrential rain cut our walk short, but it was still a great day out.

Niki Gorick and I aboard the Theatreship

My mum and I took a trip to Canary Wharf and the 'Theatreship', in March, to hear Niki Gorick give a talk on her latest book, 'Dock Life Renewed'. Not much of a walk, but a fascinating evening.

Light Tunnel

With Spring truly here, my next walk, with Steve, was from the Light Tunnel, at King's Cross, to Baker Street, along the Regent's Canal, with lunch at Canopy Market and a drink at 'Camden Lock Dingwalls Pub'. A wonderful tranquil walk.

Morrissey Girls with Alfie

April saw Erin, Keilyn and I take Gary and his son, Alfie, to 'Mudchute Park and Farm', for Alfie's first trip to London. After the park we walked south to Island Gardens, before continuing along the River Thames and back to Canary Wharf.

Keilyn with a Dalek

Keilyn and I visited Gunnersbury Park and Museum, where we explored the mansion, once owned by the Rothschild family, and visited the exhibitions, before exploring the grounds.

Stave Hill Viewpoint

Late April saw Keilyn and I visit the Brunel Museum, before heading along the Thames Path and visiting Stave Hill Viewpoint, before walking to Canada Water. From here we walked to Rotherhithe Station, where we travelled through the Thames Tunnel, built by Brunel, Wapping. From here we walked to HM Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, stopped for lunch, and then continued our walk to Barbican.

Tower Bridge

Our next walk saw Keilyn and I joined by my mum, uncle Martin and our friend Steve. We visited St Katharine Docks to see the Dunkirk Little Ships, before Keilyn, Steve and I headed off to the south bank for lunch at 'The Salt Quay'. We returned to Tower Bridge in time to see it open, to allow a barge to pass through, before rejoining my mum and uncle Martin.

Kensington Palace

Keilyn and I started our next walk from Marylebone station, heading towards Paddington. We saw 'Real Time' by Maarten Baas, before moving on to Leinster Gardens and the fake houses. From here we headed into Kensington Gardens and on to Kensington High Street. We visited Gnome Land, the Tower House and Gnome Land and ate our lunch in Holland Park, before heading to Green Park via Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park.

St George's Garrison Church

Severndroog Castle was the next starting point, for Keilyn and I, on a glorious Sunday in July. The folly offers unique views across London and its surrounding counties. From here we walked to St George's Garrison Church, before we stopped for lunch in Woolwich. We then took the Woolwich Free Ferry to the north bank, before continuing our walk to the Royal Docks, where we caught the Cable Car to North Greenwich.

Hanwell Zoo

Brent Lodge Park was the next visit, and starting point, for Keilyn and I. Hanwell Zoo is a great children's zoo, which we visited after first exploring the MillenniuM Maze. From here we walked through Brent Lodge Park, and The Hobbayne, before arriving at Hanwell station. A short trip, on the Elizabeth line, took us to Tottenham Court Road, where we continued walking, eventually arriving at Baker Street station.

Highgate Cemetery

August saw Emma, Erin, Keilyn and I, stay at Premier Inn Archway for one night, so that we could explore the area, using the hotel as a base. Kenwood House, Archway, Hampstead Heath and Highgate Cemetery were all explored, during our stay.

The Southwark Tavern

A rare solo trip saw me walk from Elephant and Castle to Borough, where I saw old World War II ARP Stretchers used as railings, saw the last surviving part of Marshalsea Prison and visited 'The Southwark Tavern'. An old Tram Shelter, with a new lease of life, was next, before heading for the south bank, where I saw William Blake's Mosaics beneath a bridge, before continuing to Waterloo.

Keilyn driving a Victoria line train

Thursday, February 06, 2025

'Knight of Cnihtengild' by Denys Mitchell

Knight of Cnihtengild by Denys Mitchell

If you were to walk along Devonshire Square, midway between Aldgate and Liverpool Street stations, you will discover this statue of a Knight on horseback.

It is a wonderful piece that, although looking out of place among the office buildings, harks back to a bygone era for the area.

It was commissioned by Standard Life Insurance Company, designed by Denys Mitchell and unveiled in 1990.

Knight of Cnihtengild by Denys Mitchell

The statue

The knight, depicted in armour, sitting atop a neighing horse is made from beaten bronze, with blue glass lenses in the horse's carapace.

Monday, February 03, 2025

Bell Building, Lambeth

Bell Building Lambeth

Since 1560 this was the site of a public house, named The Bell Inn, with an address of 11 Church Street. St Mary-at-Lambeth church, which stood at the road's western end, was how Church Street got its name.

Following the street renaming process, which took place between 1857-1929, its address became 111 Lambeth Road.

Bell Building Lambeth

Alterations were made, in 1930, when the building incorporated the refreshments room, previously a tobacconists, next door. 

This new building, built in the neo-Tudor style, opened in 1931, but ultimately closed as a public house in 1958.

It was redeveloped with residential flats, above, and offices on the ground floor.

It is believed that the Inn got its name from the bell that was rung to summon ferrymen to the nearby River Thames.

Thursday, January 30, 2025

'John Betjeman' by Martin Jennings

John Betjeman Statue St Pancras

To mark the opening of St Pancras International as the terminus for the High-Speed rail link, between London and Europe, a statue of Sir John Betjeman was unveiled.

John Betjeman had been an advocate of Victorian architecture and, in the 1960s, had campaigned to have St Pancras station, and the adjacent hotel, saved from demolition.

John Betjeman Statue

Sir John Betjeman CBE (1906-1984).

Born in London he lived in Gospel Oak until the family moved to Highgate, in 1909. T.S. Eliot was one of John's early tutors, at Highgate School. Following this he was sent to boarding school at Dragon School preparatory school, Oxford, and then Marlborough College, Wiltshire. He left Marlborough College in 1925.

His next education came when he entered Magdalen College at the University of Oxford, where one of his tutors was C.S. Lewis. Neither men seemed to get on, with C.S. Lewis stating that "Betjeman would not achieve honours in any class." Betjeman was expelled from Oxford, in 1928, after failing the Pass school and only achieving a satisfactory result in one of three required papers, Shakespeare and other English authors.

Between 1930-1935 Betjeman worked for the Architectural Review as an assistant editor.

Monday, January 27, 2025

Victorian Turkish Bath House, Bishopsgate

Victorian Bath House Bishopsgate

It is quite a juxtaposition to walk through the City of London, with its glass office blocks, concrete buildings and shops, to then find yourself facing at a Turkish style Victorian Bath House.

These were once very common, in the late 1800s, but, as far as I can find, this is the last of its kind, in London.

So why is it here and when and why was it built?

During the early to mid 1800s London's population tripled to over 3 million residents, bringing with it many problems, including housing issues, which led to health and hygiene problems.

To try and solve this the Baths and Washhouses Act of 1846 was introduced, which encouraged local authorities to provide adequate public washing and bathing facilities.

While many washhouses were large buildings that could be used by many people, the more affluent residents wanted something more to their taste.

Victorian Bath House Bishopsgate

Enter David Urquhart. As a diplomat Mr Urquhart had visited Moorish Spain, Greece and Turkey and suggested the use of 'Turkish Baths', a phrase that he coined, in 1850. He claimed that these baths could cure alcoholism, baldness, cholera, constipation and dementia, all of which was unfounded.

Urquhart oversaw the building of many of these Turkish Baths and, in 1860, Roger Evans, a colleague of Urquhart's, opened the first of these Turkish Baths at 5 Bell Street, near Marble Arch.

Sunday, January 26, 2025

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Trinity Buoy Wharf

Saturday January 25, 2025.

Another Saturday and another trip to London was in order.

Up. Dressed. Keilyn and I take an Uber to the station. Meet Steve. Underground to Finchley Road. Underground to Aldgate.

Reaching the end of the line, Steve, Keilyn and I left Aldgate station and immediately grabbed a hot drink from the coffee shop outside the station. Then, with drinks in hand, we set off... heading east.

Heading along Aldgate High Street we crossed St Botolph Street and continued along Whitechapel High Street and onto Whitechapel Road, soon coming to Whitechapel Market, with its hustle and bustle and aromatic smells.

Whitechapel Bell Foundry

We passed the old Whitechapel Dell Foundry, the Royal London Hospital and the Blind Beggar pub, briefly toying with the idea of heading south, through Shadwell to the River Thames, but instead continued east along Mile End Road.

Trinity Green Almshouses

Statues, sculptures and fascinating architecture lined our route with Trinity Green and its Almshouses being a highlight, with stone ships mounted atop the ends of the Almshouses.

We continued our walk, passing Stepney Green station and the huge campus that is Queen Mary University of London, until we reached The Regent's Canal.

Regent's Canal looking toward Canary Wharf

Realising that we would soon end up on Stratford or Ilford, if Keilyn had her way, we decided to join the towpath and follow the canal to the River Thames.

Swans, coots, moorhens, ducks and geese were happily gliding along the still water surface, while Herons stood on the bank, or stood motionless in Mile End Park, oblivious to the joggers and families using the space.

Limehouse Basin

We passed the Ragged School Museum, with its cafe full of patrons, and continued alongside the canal until we reached Limehouse Basin, with its myriad barges, boats and yachts.

Limehouse Hole Stairs

From here it was a short walk through Ropemakers Fields to Narrow Street, using the bridge to cross Limekiln Dock, to reach Limehouse Hole Stairs. As the tide was out we dropped down onto the small beach and enjoyed the unseasonably warm heat of the sun.

Speaking of the River Bench

As we climbed back up to street level I could just make out a conversation between a young woman and a much older man, but there was no one around that matched the sounds. Joggers were plugged into their devices, while families were pointing out the sights. As I stood and listened I realised that the voices were coming from a silver bench. Sitting down I realised that it was a recorded interview about life on the docks, being played through speakers at either end of the bench. It is such a clever idea.

One Park Drive

We continued along Loverose Way before crossing onto Heron Quays Road, making our way around Middle Dock, heading for the Henry Addington pub, where we would have dinner.

Thursday, January 23, 2025

Special Operations Executive Agents Memorial & Violette Szabo

Special Operations Executive Agents Memorial

This bronze bust of Violette Szabo, on the Albert Embankment, just yards from the Headquarters of the British Special Intelligence Service (MI6), commemorates the secret agents who led covert operations against the Nazis.

This monument was commissioned by the Public Memorials Appeal.

S. O. E.

The Special Operations Executive was secretly formed for the purpose of recruiting agents, men and women of many nationalities, who would volunteer to continue the fight for freedom, by performing acts of sabotage in countries occupied by the enemy during the Second World War.

This monument is in honour of all the courageous S.O.E. Agents: those who did survive and those who did not survive their perilous missions. Their services were beyond the call of duty. In the pages of history their names are carved with pride.

The Heroes of Telemark.

In 1943 Norwegian resistance commandos sponsored by the S.O.E. raided the enemy occupied Norsk Hydro Plant in the Telemark region of Norway.

This successful raid sabotaged the machinery that was producing heavy water, which is used in the manufacture of the Atomic Bomb.

Thanks to those Norwegian Commandos the enemy's attempt to develop the Atomic Bomb was thwarted.

The Maquis French resistance fighters.

470 S.O.E. agents were sent on sabotage missions to occupied France where they fought with networks of French resistance fighters who played an important part in the liberation of France in 1944.

Special Operations Executive Memorial

Violette Szabo.

Violette Bushell was born in Paris, France, in 1921, before her family moved to England. At the outbreak of World War II, she joined the Women's Land Army and the Auxiliary Territorial Service, where she met Ã‰tienne Szabo, a Free French corps soldier. They were married and she bore him a daughter, Tanis, in 1942. That same year Étienne was killed in action at the battle of El-Alamein. 

It was this event that led her to join the Special Operations Executive intelligence agency, which, at the time, had its headquarters on Baker Street.

Special Operations Executive Baker Street

Tuesday, January 21, 2025

Walking with family and friends: King's Cross to Hampstead Heath... and beyond

Japanese Garden Island

Saturday January 18, 2025.

Keilyn and I headed off to London, earlier than usual, as we were to meet my friend who was travelling to King's Cross from Peterborough.

K8 Telephone Box

As we reached Northwick Park Keilyn took a photo of one of only four remaining K8 telephone boxes left on the London Underground.

Our timing was almost perfect with Keilyn and I exiting onto King's Cross plaza just ten minutes after Gary. After a walk through St Pancras International we began our walk. 

The Hardy Tree

We headed north along Midland Road and onto Pancras Road, where we stopped at St Pancras Old Church to see the remains of the Hardy Tree. The graves that the ash once stood over are now covered in weeds, while the Hardy Tree lies in pieces on the grass. Such a loss.

Dots Music

We left St Pancras Gardens and followed Camley Street which led us to Murray Street, our route taking us ever northward. Camden Square brought us onto Camden Road, where we turned onto Royal College Street. It was here we discovered 'Dots Music'. The steps, to the shop, were painted like piano keys, so Keilyn pretended to play them.

Keilyn with a hot chocolate

Up Royal College Street we went, before finding ourselves on Kentish Town Road where we stopped to grab a hot drink each, from an independent coffee stall.

After spotting a camel, on Highgate Road, we noticed a LFB Fire Investigation van, with its occupant in a white coverall, which fascinated Keilyn. We passed Parliament Hill School and William Ellis School, before we turned in to Hampstead Heath, where school children of all ages were playing rugby, while their parents watched on. Other people were using the running track as we dodged the joggers and dog walkers.

Orientalist Camel

We left Hampstead Heath, via Savernake Bridge, and headed along Roderick Road, at the end of which, on the other side of Mansfield Road, was the London School of Mosaic, which is situated in 'Waxham House'. It was here that we made the mistake of turning left, following Mansfield Road onto Gordon House Road. Eventually we reached Highgate Road, where we turned left. Keilyn started laughing as we approached a LFB Fire Investigation van, with its occupant in a white coverall, as she had realised, long before us, that we had taken so many left turns that we had completed a circle!

Monday, January 20, 2025

Model Village, Vauxhall Park

Model Village, Vauxhall Park

It was while on one of my many walks that I discovered Vauxhall Park and, by extension, this model village. 

There are only about six homes and three smaller buildings, but it is quite a nice thing to discover.

With the other work going on in the park I assumed that this was a new installation, as the buildings looked freshly painted and maintained. It wasn't until I did some research, for this blog post, that I discovered their remarkable history. Enjoy.

Model Village, Vauxhall Park

In the 1950s this model village was moved from its original home, in Brockwell Park, and placed in Vauxhall Park. The buildings are signed and dated, on the inside, by Edgar Wilson, 1943. Edgar Wilson, who lived in West Norwood, was a retired engineer who took up making model villages, among other things, in his later years. He tinted the concrete and etched the brick, timbers and roof tiles by hand and used lead for the windows and doors. Originally this village was created in the Tudor style, with white walls and black timbers. 

In 2018, the houses were given a 'Suffragette' makeover, using a purple, green and white colour scheme. These colours were chosen as the model village now resides on the Fawcett Garden, which is named for Millicent Garrett Fawcett. 

A small heart-shaped plaque states:
Friends of Vauxhall Park
These model houses were made for Vauxhall Park
In 1949 by Edgar Wilson of Norwood.
He made other sets of houses but only these
And a set in Melbourne, Australia, remain.
These houses were restored in 2001
By local resident and friend of Vauxhall Park,
Mr Nobby Clark.
They were unveiled in June 2001
By local MP for Vauxhall Ms Kate Hoey.

Model Village, Vauxhall Park

Edgar Wilson made three of these villages.

One village, at Finsbury Park, was vandalised and fell into disrepair, with nothing of the village remaining today.

The village at Brockwell Park decayed due to a lack of care and, I believe, just a few shells of the original buildings remain.

Following World War II, Edgar Wilson had been so touched by food parcels, sent from Australia, that he wrote to them and asked if they would like a model Tudor village for their city. They accepted and so the third village was crated and shipped to Melbourne, Australia, where it was installed in Fitzroy Gardens. It is still there to this day.