"Which was London's first railway?"

There are two possible answers to this question as there are two companies competing for the title.

Also, by answering this question we can also answer some others along the way. If we can work out which railway came first we can work out which is London's oldest station, too.

The Surrey Iron Railway

The first Act of Parliament for the authorisation of a railway in the London area was granted in 1801, to the Surrey Iron Railway. This railway was built in stages, between 1802 and 1803, from Frying Pan Creek, on the River Thames at Wandsworth, to Pitlake Meadows at Croydon, mostly following the Wandle Valley.

The Surrey Iron Railway used trains of ten wagons, which were horse-drawn along a narrow-gauge, double-tracked line. This line remained in use until 1846, but was only briefly profitable. 

However, all of this railway was within Surrey, parts of which wouldn't become part of London until 1889.

The London and Greenwich Railway

In 1831, following the success of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, which had opened in 1830 as the world's first passenger railway to connect two cities, retired Royal Engineer Colonel George Thomas Landmann and George Walter, an entrepreneur, had the idea for a passenger railway service in London. 

The Surrey Chapel and The Ring

On the northern corner of Blackfriars Road and Union Street stood the Surrey Chapel, built in 1783. It then took on a completely different persona.

The Surrey Chapel was one of the first octagonal churches, in England, and was constructed in 1783, by Reverend Rowland Hill. The chapel had innovative features that included gas lighting, underfloor heating and an organ that used thunder and lightning effects, He chose the octagonal design so that the Devil would not be able to lurk in the corners.

Able to hold 1,200 people, the eccentric Reverend Hill preached here for nearly fifty years, usually to a full congregation, from his pulpit that was situated in the centre of the chapel.

In 1881 the chapel closed and, by 1910, was converted into a boxing arena, by Dick Burge, who was a former British lightweight champion between 1891-1897, and his wife Bella. They replaced the pulpit with a raised, roped-in enclosure, with a circular stage surrounded by seats for spectators.

Dick Burge renamed the building 'The Ring', which stems from early literal ground-drawn fight circles used in the early bare-knuckle boxing days under London Prize Ring Rules.

It would become the first indoor boxing ring for the working classes and would go on to become one of the most popular boxing venues, in London, famous as a proving ground for boxing talent, where well-known prize-fighters took on apprentice fighters. 

London's Crossroads Burials

This 1746 map shows the probable site of the burial of John Duke.

Walking along the streets of London, with its over 2,000 years of history, you can never know exactly what, or who, you are walking on.

Historically, in Britain, individuals who died by suicide, which was considered a crime, executed criminals or other 'outcasts' were often denied burial in consecrated church ground and interred at crossroads, with a stake through their heart. It was believed that the junction of roads would confuse the spirit of the deceased and prevent them from returning to haunt the living. 

The crossroads at which they were  interred were usually the closest to their home or the murder site.

Three high profile crossroads burials.

Although there were many burials at crossroads, records have been lost or destroyed, making a true count of how many impossible. Below are the three that I can find information about.

National Police Memorial

On a small patch of grassland, at the corner of The Mall and Horse Guards Road, stands the National Police Memorial. It was the first memorial to be placed in St James's Park in over a century.

On April 17, 1984, WPC Yvonne Fletcher was fatally wounded by a gunshot, fired by an unknown gunman in the Libyan Embassy, on St James's Square. Her murder sparked an eleven-day siege of the Embassy which, when it ended, resulted in the expulsion of those inside the building and the severing of diplomatic ties between the United Kingdom and Libya. 

Following her murder the film director Michael Winner founded the Police Memorial Trust. At first the Trust erected small monuments at the locations where Police Officers had lost their lives, but they wanted something more.

From the mid 1990s they lobbied and raised funds for a permanent memorial to all officers who had died in the course of their duties. Michael Winner gifted £500,000 to the fund, stating, 

"Memorials to soldiers, sailors and airmen are commonplace, but the police fight a war with no beginning and no end."

'Dr Salter's Daydream' by Diane Gorvin

If you walk along Bermondsey Wall East you will find four statues of a family, enjoying the peaceful serenity of this part of the River Thames. The pieces are collectively known as 'Dr Salter's Daydream'.

First unveiled, in 1991, the original location of the statue was a little further west, at Cherry Garden Pier. However, in 2003, the statues were relocated to their current position besides the Thames Wall, near the Angel pub and opposite the remains of King Edward III's moated manor house. In 2011, the original statue of Dr Salter was stolen, possibly to be sold for scrap, resulting in the statues of Joyce and the cat being removed for safe keeping. 

It wasn't until 2014, following a fund raising campaign by local people, that the statues were reinstated, which included a new statue, that of his wife Ada. The original statue of Dr Salter had him sitting on a bench, legs crossed with his left arm raised as if in greeting. The new sculpture has him sitting on a granite bench, his hands resting on an umbrella, looking towards his daughter, Joyce, who is leaning against the embankment wall.

His wife, Ada, is seen to be walking towards Joyce, while their pet cat sits atop the river wall as if ready to pounce on an unsuspecting avian friend.

It is a rather poignant set of statues showing Dr Alfred Salter in old age, his wife Ada holding a spade and their daughter Joyce, who sadly died aged eight years old.

The Statues

The statues were designed by Diane Gorvin and cast in bronze by Castle Fine Arts Foundry. Although only three statues were designed as part of the original design, Diane created the statue of Ada for the new unveiling. The statue of Ada is the first statue, in London, of a female politician.

So, who were the Salters and what is their connection to the area?

Walking alone: Baker Street to Camden... and beyond

Friday April 10, 2026.

A sunny day with light winds, 16°C (61°F).

The plan had been for Keilyn and myself to go for a walk in London, while Emma visited her mum and dad, in Chesham. However, Keilyn kept changing her mind as to what she wanted to do.

Emma booked a taxi, which we clambered into, which whisked us through the deserted streets to Watford Underground station. Erin was staying home, as she was dog-sitting for Alysha, later in the day.

We boarded the waiting train and were soon trundling through Croxley towards Moor Park station. I was still unsure if Keilyn was going to change her mind, again, and come with me. But, no, Keilyn decided to change to a Chesham-bound train with Emma, while I continued on to Baker Street.

Arriving at Baker Street I exited the station and made my way north, along Baker street, and entered Regent's Park. The Park wasn't too busy, at this time, with there being more joggers and runners than people walking through. I walked along the path, beside the Boating Lake, before joining the Outer Circle. I then passed the London Central Mosque, before passing the gates to Winfield House, which is the official residence of the United States ambassador to the United Kingdom.

I then crossed the road and dropped down onto the Regent's Canal towpath, which I found to be almost deserted, with just the occasional cyclist zipping by. Bluebells lined the grassy banks, carpeting the floor with their unique colour and foliage. At one point there was more traffic on the canal than the towpath. As I passed beneath the 'Blow up' bridge, my friend Dyan messaged to say that she would be heading to London, following a hospital appointment. I explained where I was, where I was heading to and what time I expected to arrive there. Dyan said that she would make her way to King's Cross and then message me to find out where I was. It was a sound plan.

Soon, I could hear the voices of the visitors to London Zoo, across the canal to my right, while I could see more people crossing the bridge to visit Monkey Valley in the Snowdon Aviary. As I looked up I could see some of the Eastern black-and-white colobus monkeys, sitting on perches.

The White Chapel

The original White Chapel, which gave its name to the area, was the first church to stand on what is now Altab Ali Park. Built in 1250 it was a simple, lime washed, stone rubble chapel that remained standing until 1286.

In 1329, the chapel was rebuilt and named St Mary Matfelon. Over the next 500 years the church was enlarged, encompassed different styles and was rebuilt at least three more times. During this period it is estimated that several thousand burials took place in the churchyard, including Richard Brandon who is believed to have been the executioner of King Charles I.

Walking with Erin: Royal Air Force Museum, Hendon... and beyond

Tuesday April 7, 2026.

Sunny with clear skies 19°C (66°F).

Recently I had been going through some old photographs and realised that we hadn't visited the Royal Air Force Museum, Hendon, since July 2016. That was almost 10 years ago! Back then Erin was 5 and Keilyn was 3.

So, the three of us decided to revisit during the Easter holidays. Keilyn, all of a sudden, decided that she would rather stay home and play in the sun, while Erin was still up for a day out.

We took a taxi to Watford Town centre and made our way down the High Street, where we caught a 142 bus to Edgware. One of the great things about London Transport is that children travel for free and, providing you change to another bus, or tram, within an hour of boarding, you don't get charged a second time. This is perfect for those on a budget.

Arriving at Edgware we located as 'Greggs', where food and drinks were purchased, before we headed to a bus stop to catch the 303 bus to the museum. The 303 bus dropped us directly outside the museum, which, since our last visit, had gone through a major refurbishment with new hangars and displays. We made our way through the gate, stopping to take a photo of the Supermarine Spitfire Mk Ix gate guard, before entering Hangar 1, to begin our exploration. 

Hangar 1, RAF Stories and First to the Future

Hangar 1 has two exhibitions. The first is 'RAF Stories' and the second is 'First to the Future'. Here we learnt the story of the first 100 years of the Royal Air Force, from its inception in 1918 through to the present. Aircraft and vehicles from every era were on display, along with models, ejector seats and interactive displays.

'Cantonal Tree' and 'Glockenspiel Clock', Swiss Court

The Glockenspiel Clock, Swiss Court.

If you approach Leicester Square, from the west, you will find yourself on Swiss Court. This small thoroughfare, less than 40 metres (130 feet) in length, was once home to the Swiss Centre.

The Swiss Centre, built between 1963 and 1966, was a 14-storey building that was a showcase for Switzerland and its products. The centre featured a commercial and trade centre.This included a branch of a Swiss bank and a Swissair ticket office tourist office. There was also a chocolate and souvenir shop, a cafe and, in its basement, several Swiss-themed restaurants.

The rest of the building was taken up with offices, residential spaces, a penthouse and a viewing gallery.

Walking with Keilyn: Brixton to West Norwood... and beyond

Saturday April 4, 2026.

Cloudy with sunny spells and light winds, 13°C (55°F).

Keilyn and I decided that we needed to complete our mission to visit all of the 'Magnificent Eight' garden cemeteries, of which six were already completed. As such it was a case of visiting south London, to explore Nunhead and West Norwood cemeteries.

We were up early, dressed and boarding a train, at Watford underground station, by 08:50, heading to Finchley Road. From here we changed to a Jubilee line train to Green Park and, from there, a Victoria line train to Brixton.

My original intention had been to take a bus to Norwood, but Keilyn decided that, as it was pretty much a straight road, we should walk. So, off we set. We headed south along Effra Road and onto Tulse Hill where we decided to enter Brockwell Park, rather than follow the streets to our destination.

A series of three ponds, linked by trickling water courses, were immediately to our right, with an adventure playground to our right. Ahead of us cricket pitches, tennis courts and community greenhouses stretched out before us. Deciding to continue south we explored the ponds before we visited the Walled Garden. 

The Walled Garden was a tranquil place filled with trees, shrubs, herbs, flowers, a pond, and more. At its entrance was, quite possibly, the smallest Model Village that I have ever seen. It consists of around half-a-dozen houses, which were designed by Edgar Wilson, in 1943. The original village was a lot bigger, but the village was relocated to Vauxhall Park in the 1950s.

Continuing onward we made up to the top of the park, near Brockwell Hall, where we stopped to look north at the London skyline, some four-and-a-half miles (seven kilometres) away. We crested the hill and walked down the grass parkland towards the gate at Norwood Road. Towards the bottom of the grassland a young mother and her daughter, all of about three years old, launched a rubber band-propelled glider, that danced through the air, before getting caught in the branches of a tree. 

St Peter's Church, London Docks

The altar and stained-glass windows.

St Peter's Church, London Docks, is a wonderful hidden gem.

The Wapping Lane entrance.

Although it is clearly visible from Raines Mansions Park and Raine Street, its main entrance is situated on Wapping Lane. It is this entrance, behind a double-arched covered forecourt, that brings you to the courtyard from where you access the church. 

The tiled entranceway, with steps leading up to residential properties, that brings you to the church courtyard and entrance is wonderful to explore in itself. 

Even then the simple facade of the church belies what you will discover inside. From this elevation the church doesn't seem too impressive, but how wrong that assumption is.

The tiled entrance to the church courtyard.

On entering St Peter's, London Docks, you find yourself in a far bigger church than the small west facing entrance implies. The high roof, with its exposed beams, gives a real sense of space, with stained-glass windows taking up the upper portion of the east wall.

Going through an arched entrance, to the right, is the baptismal font in the baptistry. This stands at the end of the south aisle, the walls of which are adorned with various images of the 'Stations of the Cross'. A small doorway leads you into the small 'Shrine of Our Lady Walsingham'. This space has three small stained-glass windows and a half dozen chairs, set out before an altar.

The Mysterious Mercers' Maiden: London's Timeless Watcher

If you've ever walked the historic streets of London, particularly around Covent Garden and the City, you might have felt like you were being watched. Not by a person, but by a serene, stone-faced lady gazing down from a building façade. This is the Mercers' Maiden, one of the city's most enduring and enigmatic symbols.

But who is she, and why is she ubiquitous across some of London's most valuable real estate?

The Mercers' Company, a City Livery Company, has owned the land between Long Acre and Shelton Street since 1530. These Livery Companies grew out of the trades guilds, in the 12th century, when men and women working in the same crafts, or trades, joined together in formal associations.

A Birthday Night Out

Thursday March 26, 2026.

Sunny intervals with light winds, 10°C to 11°C (50-52°F), with a night-time low of 5°C (41°F).

It was a typical start to a birthday that falls on a weekday. Up and dressed for work, ensuring the girls were awake and getting ready for school. I then headed off on the 12-minute walk to work.

The morning was much like any other day, with my work being completed in my usual efficient manner. My manager, Ann, seeing that I had finished everything that was expected of me, allowed me to leave slightly early, which meant that I wouldn't need to rush to get myself ready for that evening's adventure.

I arrived home in time to see Emma and Keilyn, before they headed off to do a food shop. Keilyn's school had closed for the Easter holidays just after lunch, so she was eager to join mum on her shopping trip.

Emma had bought me two tickets to the Science Museum, where a new Star Trek Warp Trail was being opened to mark the 60th anniversary of Star Trek. My uncle Martin would be joining me for the evening.

Once they had left I set about getting myself ready, showering and picking out my clothes for the evening. I was debating on whether I should wear one of my Star Trek uniforms. I have a Next Generation maroon uniform and a Captain's dress uniform, from Star Trek First Contact. It was this latter uniform that  I wore at my wedding. However, the maroon top was a little too small, by now, and the trousers for the dress uniform were very tight. In the end I decided on black trousers, a black shirt and jacket, with gold Star Trek socks and my Starfleet class ring.

Martin came through the door just after Erin had arrived home from school. So, we sat and had a drink while we waited for Emma and Keilyn to return. When the shopping was packed away, Martin and I headed off, with him driving us to Croxley station from where we would catch our train.

Science Museum: Star Trek Warp Trail

2026 marks 60 years since Star Trek first hit television screens across the world. Although the original series was short-lived, it became a cultural phenomenon spawning an animated television series. Then, in 1979, it hit the big screen with Star Trek The Motion Picture. More films and television series have followed to the present day, making it the largest science fiction franchise in the world.

To celebrate the 60th anniversary, the Science Museum has partnered with Paramount to produce a special season of Star Trek events. 

This includes screenings of all the big screen adventures of the U.S.S. Enterprise and her crew, while costumes and props from the franchise have been spread across the museum for everyone to discover. 

You can also explore a 360° immersive simulation of the U.S.S. Enterprise bridge, where you can take a selfie. Plus, you can sit in the Captain's chair from Star Trek Discovery.

A special pop-up shop is also selling exclusive Star Trek at 60 merchandise, much of which has been developed by the Science Museum.

You will see a model of the U.S.S. Enterprise NCC-1701, various costumes from the franchise, medical gadgets, tricorders, comms badges, Tribbles and much more.

Star Trek 60 runs from March 27 until September 8, 

with all of the events and activities being free.

Star Trek Warp Trail

The Star Trek 60 Film Season, which showcases all thirteen big screen outings, 

has special screening dates and requires tickets, with prices starting at £20.

Star Trek 60 Film Season

Fleet Street: London's printing heart

A map of Fleet Street, circa 1680.

Fleet Street was for centuries synonymous with the popular press. 

In about 1500, Wynkyn de Worde, an assistant to William Caxton, brought printing to Fleet Street. Other early printers soon joined him, which began the tradition of printing in this street, which continued until the late 1980s.

Following William Caxton's death, Wynkyn de Worde inherited Caxton's presses and moved them from Westminster to a house opposite Shoe Lane. Once Wynkyn de Worde was established he became a prolific printer, transforming Caxton's scholarly printing business into a thriving business. This was due, in part, by de Worde's move into the market of reasonably priced publications.

Wynkyn de Worde also introduced the world to the publication of romantic novels. He also developed the early newspaper market, where he published shorter works which were sold for a penny or two. He also became known for sensationalism as a way to sell his papers.

He became aware of what the public were reading and, using this knowledge, began printing volumes that were easy to handle and were quite cheap. These included children's books, instructional guides on good manners, husbandry, marriage and medicine. He also produced religious books, cashing in on Fleet Street's abundance of religious clerics and ministers.

In the 1500s Fleet Street was a road of houses and was more like a country village than what we know today.

Walking with Keilyn: Kensal Green to Holland Park... and beyond

Sunday March 22, 2026.

Cloudy skies with light winds, brightening in the late morning to hazy sunshine, 13°C (55°F).

It was a cool 4°C (39.2°F), with light mist, as we left our house and began our gentle walk to Watford High Street station, where we boarded a Lioness train, that took us to Kensal Green. Keilyn and I sent a selfie to Dyan, who responded with a photo of Harrow & Wealdstone station. We informed her that we would be passing through in a few minutes and Dyan managed to take a photo of our train approaching, while she waited for the train that would take her to work.  

On leaving Kensal Green station we crossed Harrow Road and entered Kensal Green Cemetery, via its main entrance. Keilyn, always the inquisitive one, wanted to find the graves of Isambard and Marc Brunel, while I was interested in seeing Harold Pinter's grave. So, off we went in search of the graves. 

Kensal Green Cemetery was the first of London's eight garden cemeteries to open, which was back in 1833. It covers an area of 72 acres and has many famous people buried within the grounds. These include Isambard Kingdom Brunel and his son Sir Marc Isambard Brunel, Harold Pinter, Steve Peregrin Took, Wilkie Collins, Prince Augustus Frederick The Duke of Sussex, Erich Fried, Medi Oliver Mehra, Marigold Churchill, Charles Babbage, William Makepeace Thackeray, among countless others.

It didn't take us long to find the grave of Isambard Kingdom and his son Sir Marc Isambard Brunel, before we continued our search for other graves of interest. Peculiarly, the grave of Steven Ross Porter, better known as Steve Peregrin Took (member of the band Tyrannosaurus Rex), was fairly easy to find, while that of Harold Pinter took some searching.

After a good exploration we made our way out onto Ladbroke Grove, heading south. We crossed the Grand Union Canal and continued following Ladbroke Grove, buying hot drinks at an independent coffee shop, called Mowgli Coffee. 

Grave of William Ellsworth Robinson, aka Chung Ling Soo

East Sheen Cemetery, opened in 1905 or 1906 as Barnes Cemetery, on what was originally rural woodland.

The cemetery is home to many notable interments, including over seventy Commonwealth war graves, the Buxton Memorial, the Lancaster Memorial and notable actors, artists, diplomats, entertainers, sculptors, writers and many more.

However, the grave that I had come to see was that of someone I had heard about when I was growing up, as he was mentioned on 'The Paul Daniel's Magic Show'. 

The grave for which I searched was that of the American William Ellsworth Robinson, who the world of the early twentieth century would come to know as Chung Ling Soo.

After passing rows of graves and tombs I found it.

So, how does an American, born with Scottish ancestry, become known by a Chinese name?

Bromley-by-Bow Gasworks & Memorial Garden

Hidden away on a small piece of woodland, in the middle of a large industrial park, is a well kept lawn and some interesting memorials. This is the Bromley-by-Bow Gasworks Memorial Garden.

It is hard to imagine, now, but this entire area that comprises the memorial park and new industrial park was once marshland. 

In the 1800s, William Congreve built his rocket factory here. His rockets were based on an Indian design that had proved effective against the East India Company. He would go on to develop three types of rocket that travelled various distances and had different warheads. 

London's River Lights

If you walk along the Thames Path, east of Woolwich, you will discover these small red lighthouses. They can be found at Margaretness (or Tripcock Ness), Crossness and Coldharbour.

They are not lighthouses, in the traditional sense, but more like navigational light masts.

The Margaretness Lighthouse was installed in 1902, by Trinity House (the General Lighthouse Authority for England), but has been operated by the Port of London Authority, since 1993. 

In 1566, Queen Elizabeth I empowered Trinity House to set up "so many beacons, marks and signs for the sea whereby the dangers may be avoided and escaped and ships the better come into their ports without peril."

On Tour: York, Day 1

Welcome to the first in a series of blogs about my visit to the historic city of York, this past weekend.

Eboracum was originally founded in AD 71, by the Roman Ninth Legion who had conquered the Brigantes Tribe. On its founding it became the Roman capital for Britannia inferior. 

Following the Roman withdrawal from Britain it became the capital of the kingdoms of Deira, Northumbria, and Scandinavian York.

During the Middle Ages, AD 735, York became the centre for the northern England ecclesiastical province, covering the northern third of England and the Isle of Man, consisting of 14 dioceses.

During the nineteenth century York became a major railway hub and a centre for the manufacturing of confectionery.

Today, York is a bustling Cathedral City covering an area of 33.7 km2 (13.0 sq mi). To put this into context, my hometown of Watford has an area of 21.5 km2 (8.3 sq mi), while London has an area of 1,572 km2 (607 sq mi). It is home to many historical buildings, streets and the Minster.

For the long weekend of Friday March 6 to Monday March 9, York would be where Emma and myself would be staying, as it was a place that neither of had visited. Our friend Steve was looking after Erin and Keilyn, at our house, for the weekend.

Friday March 6, 2026.

We left Watford via Watford Junction, taking a National Rail train to Euston. From there we walked the short distance to King's Cross station, stopping to grab some food from the Market on King's Cross Square.

We then made our way into the station and waited for the platform allocation to be announced, before heading through the ticket barriers to platform 3. After stowing our luggage we took our reserved seats and sat back and enjoyed the smooth ride to North Yorkshire.