London's 'Magnificent Seven' Cemeteries. But, originally, there were eight

During the 1830s and 1840s eight private cemeteries were created in an attempt to solve the problem of overcrowding in Victorian London's churchyards. 

This was brought about by a number of factors that included the rapidly increasing rates in birth and mortality and a migration of people from rural areas to the city, due, in part, to the Industrial Revolution.

In 1831 London suffered a cholera epidemic and public health became a major issue. It was believed that poisonous vapours from decomposing bodies was a factor in the outbreak of both cholera and typhoid.

As churchyards became full graves were dug at a depth of just 3 feet (1 metre) and, within a few months, were used again. 

'Resurrection Men' were another problem. These Resurrectionists would raid cemeteries in order to snatch a body, which would then be sold to hospitals for medical students to dissect. These body snatchers would select a grave and then dig a hole at the head end. They then broke the coffin and, using a rope, dragged out the body, thus not having to do a full excavation. They were also careful not to take any jewellery or clothes, as this would result in more serious charges, punishable by transportation to the colonies. Bodies belonged to no one, so their removal was a far less serious charge. 

Such was the proliferation of 'body snatching' that Watch Houses were built, besides graveyards, and were manned by armed watchmen.

In 1832 an Act was passed by Parliament that encouraged the construction of private cemeteries outside central London.

Between 1833 and 1845 eight garden cemeteries were established, four of which were consecrated by the Bishop of London, Charles James Blomfield.

According to census records London's population was one million, in 1801, but had doubled to two million by 1841. At this point London had a death rate of over 45,000 people a year, or 125 people a day.

In 1981 Hugh Meller, an architectural historian, dubbed the surviving group of cemeteries 'The Magnificent Seven', after the movie of the same name.

Each of these cemeteries is unique, making them all worthy of a visit.

Kensal Green Cemetery (General Cemetery of All Souls)

Opened 1833, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, and founded by George Frederick Carden, a barrister. 

The main buildings were designed in the Greek Revival style, by John Griffith, and it originally covered an area of 54 acres, which was later increased to 72 acres.

It is still in operation.

Kensal Green

West Norwood Cemetery (South Metropolitan Cemetery)

Opened 1837, in the London Borough of Lambeth.

The main buildings were designed in the Gothic style, by Sir William Tite and covers an area of 40 acres.

In 1966 it was purchased by Lambeth Council who run it with the Diocese of Southwark.

It is still in operation, partially.

West Norwood

Highgate Cemetery

Opened 1839 (west) 1860 (east), in the London Borough of Camden.

Architect Stephen Geary chose this site for its views over London, which had once been the grounds of Ashurst House but now had St Michael's Church built on it in 1832.

Stephen Geary was assisted by David Ramsay, a nurseryman, in making Highgate the most beautiful and popular cemetery of its time.

It is still in operation.

Highgate

Abney Park Cemetery

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Hackney.

Situated in the grounds of Abney House, once home to Isaac Watts, this cemetery was left unconsecrated, making it a popular burial ground for Dissenters, especially after Bunhill Fields closed to burials.

The chapel was the first non-denominational cemetery chapel in Europe.

In 1979 the London Borough of Hackney took ownership of the site.

It is still in operation.

Abney Park

Brompton Cemetery (West of London and Westminster Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea.

Stephen Geary was the original architect, but he was replaced by Benjamin Baud who designed a more formal layout, including the central avenue and domed chapel.

It is the only Crown Cemetery and is managed by The Royal Parks.

It is still in operation.

Brompton

Nunhead Cemetery (All Saints' Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Southwark.

Built on a hill, with views over London, it was designed by architect James Bunstone Bunning, who had replaced Stephen Geary.

In 1976 it was purchased after it was allowed to fall into neglect by its owners United Cemeteries Limited, who were looking to build on some of the land.

It is still in operation.

Nunhead

Tower Hamlets Cemetery (City of London and Tower Hamlets Cemetery) (Bow Cemetery)

Opened 1841 (closed in 1966), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

Many of the burials here were made in common graves. In 1966 it closed, when the Greater London Council bought it, with the intention of turning it into a park. Many of the monuments and trees were removed, but, following a public outcry, it became a nature reserves and urban woodland.

It is no longer in operation.

Tower Hamlets

Victoria Park Cemetery

Opened in 1845 (closed in 1876), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

This was the last of the eight garden cemeteries, but was the first to close.

Following its closure the monuments were cleared and it was turned into a public park, opening in 1894.

It is now called Meath Gardens, with only its original archway, inscribed with 'VPC', giving any hint to its original purpose. I wonder how many people use this park, without realising what lies beneath?

Meath Gardens

Olympic Bell (London 2012)

The Olympic Bell, which Bradley Wiggins rung to signal the opening of the London 2012 Olympics, now hangs rather forlornly outside the London Stadium.

It is a monster of a bell that will, in all likelihood, hang hear for the rest of its days, never to be rung again. This seems to be a waste of a bell, to me, as a bell is designed and tuned to be rung.

Having never seen it up close I was shocked by the sheer size of it.

"Be not afeard; the isle is full of noises" - The Tempest

Brief History

The Whitechapel Bell Foundry was commissioned to make the bell for the London 2012 Olympic Games, in September 2011. They finalised the design, kettering and tuning but found that no longer had the capability to cast such a massive bell. Controversially, they subcontracted the casting to Royal Eijsbouts, in the Netherlands. The Loughborough based Taylor's Bell Foundry, which had also tendered to the cast the bell, took exception at the bell being cast by a non-British company. 

The framework, from which to hang the bell, and the hammer mechanism, which alone weighed a half-ton, were made by various companies. In total there were twenty different companies, from three countries, that brought the bell to completion.

Watch House, Rotherhithe

This Watch House, on St Marychurch Street, was used by Watchmen in the 19th century. 

Constructed in 1821 it was built as a twin to the Old Rotherhithe Fire Engine House, just a bit further along Saint Marychurch Street.

It has a single floor, above ground, and a basement level, which contained a cell.

The Watchmen who were stationed here would patrol the local area in an effort to deter criminal activity. If a watchman found someone acting suspiciously they would be brought back to the Watch House, where they were kept in a cell until either being discharged or imprisoned.

This particular Watch House backs on to St Mary's Churchyard. One of the jobs watchmen were called upon to undertake was the protection of the dead. Bodysnatchers, or 'Resurrection Men' as they were known, who stole corpses for for medical research at Guy's Hospital, often visited graveyards in an attempt to find 'fresh' bodies.

The former burial ground is now St Mary's Churchyard Gardens, and the Watch House is now the Watchhouse Cafe. 

The building is Grade II listed.

Charles 'Charlie' Rouse, circa 1850.

Being a Watchmen was originally an unpaid civic duty for the local townspeople. Eventually it would become a 'profession', with Watchmen receiving a small sum for their time.

Their local parish would set down the routes that were to be followed, which they would patrol from 21:00 to 06:00. 

They were known to call out the time and weather every hour, check for fires, ensure that the village folk had locked their doors, among other things. Occasionally, townsfolk would pay the Watchmen a small sum of money to act as a walking alarm clock, waking those that had paid at a specific time.

Obelisk & St George's Circus

Walking through Southwark, along Borough Road towards Westminster Bridge Road, you will come to a junction where the aforementioned roads meet London Road. At the centre of the roundabout stands an obelisk. This is St George's Circus, and it has an interesting history.

Built in 1771, St George's Circus was London's first purpose built traffic junction. The original obelisk, at the centre of the roundabout, was affixed with four oil lamps to aid traffic in the evenings.

In 1897 the obelisk was removed and replaced with a clock tower, to honour Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. The obelisk was then erected in front of the Imperial War Museum, in what is now known as grounds of Geraldine Mary Harmsworth Park, in 1905, while the clock tower remained at St George's Circus until the 1930s, when it was demolished.

'Sunbeam Weekly and the Pilgrim's Pocket' by Peter McLean

Walking along the Thames Path, through Rotherhithe, you will discover Cumberland Wharf. It is a small park with circular seating areas and plenty of trees. Below is Rotherhithe Beach.

In the northwest corner is a statue, erected in 1991, of a boy dressed in 1930s attire, his dog and a pilgrim father. Which makes sense, as it is close to this spot that the Mayflower set sail for Southampton, on September 16, 1620, before heading to the New World.

The statue depicts the ghost of a Pilgrim Father, William Bradford, then Governor of the New Plymouth Colony, looking in horror over the boy's shoulder at what has happened within the New World, since his death. 

The comic, called 'Uncle Pete and Kev's Sunbeam Weakly' (I think this should have read 'weekly') depicts things like automobiles, aeroplanes, an eagle, cowboys, the Empire State Building, rockets, the Statue of Liberty and much more Americana. This comic did exist, from 1936-1940.

On the back of the comic are depictions of the Mayflower and the Pilgrim Fathers.

The dog, a Staffordshire bull terrier, stood on its hind legs, appears to be trying to look at the comic, too.

In the ghost's pocket are an A-Z dated 1620, a crucifix, a lobster claw, a Native American totem pole and more. But, no bible.

'Nature's Throne' by Paula Haughney

As Keilyn and I approached this grassy area, from a tree-lined path, we thought that we had discovered an ancient stone circle. And, in a way, we had. It just wasn't as old as we thought. 

There were ten etched granite stones, some of which had rusted metal fittings sticking out of them, while others had holes cut through them. Each was of varying height and shape, making each of them unique.

At the centre a massive 'throne' commanded attention, even though it was not as tall as the surrounding monoliths, it was considerably larger than the other stones.

After a good exploration, and having taken a seat on the throne, we left the area to continue our walk.

One of the ten stones that surround Nature's Throne.

This piece of public art is entitled 'Nature's Throne' and was designed by Paula Haughney.

A well-worn plaque, affixed to one of the granite blocks, states:

"Nature's Throne

by Paula Haughney

Opened by J.W.E. Jackson, J.P.

Chairman of the Authority

1st October 1990

Commissioned by Lee Valley Regional Park Authority

through the Public Art Development Trust

Supported by the Countryside Commission

and Greater London Arts"

Holborn Union Infirmary

The main building (rear) and the north 'Nightingale' ward (front), from the east.

Between 1877-79 Henry Saxon Snell was asked to design a new Union Infirmary, to the west of Archway Road, Highgate. He had previously designed other London workhouses, including St Marylebone and St Olave Union infirmaries.

Henry Saxon Snell designed the infirmary with a large four-storey central building, where the beds, on the wards, were placed at right angles to the main walls, along internal partitions. 

The north building.

'Nightingale' Wards to the north (male) and south (female) were linked to the central building with ground-floor corridors. Theses wards had their beds placed in long rows against the walls, with windows on either side that created a through-draught. 

Holborn Union Infirmary, from the west.

Although opening in 1879 work continued on the site until its completion in 1885.

The infirmary also included a workhouse, care facilities, a laundry room and a workshop building, all built in a decorative Gothic Revival style.

Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum

I have known about the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum but never had the time to visit it, Keilyn and I rectified this, on Sunday (September 1), by paying it a visit.

We were greeted at the gate by a friendly volunteer who explained about the museum, how it was run (and by whom) and what there was to see. She also informed us that the Marshall Steam Engine would be fired up at noon and again at two o'clock. With this information Keiyn and I thanked her and set off to explore the exhibits.

Of course, the first thing that Keilyn headed to was the 1967 Stock Victoria line carriage, jumping straight into the driver's cab. While Keilyn pressed buttons and pulled levers, I inspected the second of the Victoria line tube carriages. 

Eventually I convinced Keilyn to come out of the train, promising that we would return to it, so that we could explore more of the museum.

We spotted an old Bedford lorry in a garage which was opposite the Fire Museum. As took a photo Keilyn went into the Fire Museum, having spotted a fire engine. I went in a different door, where I found some vintage fire appliances, tools of the trade, memorabilia and much more. 

Oddly, hanging from the ceiling were two large models aeroplanes. One of a Mosquito, the other a Lancaster Bomber.

I then went into the second part of the museum, where I found Keilyn checking out an amazing collection of toy vehicles, all of which were fire related. A few of them I recognised as toys that I had played with as a child. Firemen's uniforms, from overseas, were displayed in a large cabinet, while another cabinet was filled with all types of fire extinguisher.

The largest exhibit was the fire engine, which was used in the first few seasons of the television series 'London's Burning', which was cool to see.

Walking with Keilyn: Walthamstow to Hackney Marshes... and beyond

Looking north along the River Lea.

Sunday September 1, 2024.

Today was the last chance for Keilyn and I to make a walk around London, before she heads back to school on Wednesday.

So, after having to plan a new route, due to certain lines being closed, we set off on the London Overground (Lioness line) to Euston, where we changed to the Victoria line to Blackhorse Road.

From here it was just a short walk south on Blackhorse Road to St James Road, then Station Road, before turning right on Markhouse Avenue.

Presently we came to our first visit of the day... Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum. We were greeted by one of the volunteers who explained that the museum is free to enter, run by volunteers and makes its money through donations and the hiring of some of its exhibits. 

Keilyn in the cab of one of the 1967 Stock Victoria line trains.

Our first stop was to the two 1967 Stock Victoria line carriages, with Keilyn heading straight to the driver's cab. Buttons were pushed and levers were twisted and I didn't think I was going to get her out of there.

Overseas Fire Memorabilia.

Eventually, I convinced her to leave the train and to explore more of the site. So, we headed to the Fire Museum. For its small size this museum packs quite a lot of memorabilia, appliances, badges, uniforms and much more into the space. 

As seen in 'London's Burning'.

The fire engine was the one used in the early seasons of the TV series 'London's Burning', which was quite cool to see.

The Marshall steam engine.

From here we headed to 'The Engine Shed', where various engines and pumps were displayed, some of which were working, before we entered the Grade II listed Victorian pumping station, which houses two Marshall steam engines and a collection of of smaller engines and pumps. It was fascinating to read the history of the items and to see these marvels up close. At noon one of the Marshall steam engines was set running, which was a joy to behold.

Liverpool Street to Chingford line.

In the Boiler House, accessed from the main pumphouse, a model railway had been built, with its various engines running along the tracks. It is based on the Liverpool Street to Chingford line and was very impressive to behold. 

Walking alone: Elephant & Castle to Borough... and beyond

Friday August 23, 2024.

As I still had some time away from work I decided to take another walk through London. I was going to be joined by my youngest, but Keilyn and her sister Erin had both gone away for the week, so I was left to explore on my own.

A simple journey saw me catch a Metropolitan line train to Baker street where I changed to a Bakerloo line train, that whisked me off to Elephant & Castle, which is as good as a starting point as any.

At Lambeth North the carriage emptied and I found myself in an deserted carriage, which was cool.

After exiting the station I turned right, as I had no route to follow, and began walking along St George's Road towards Geraldine Mary Harmsworth Park, before turning right, again, on to Lambeth Road.

Approaching St George's Circus I took some photographs of the obelisk, at the centre of the roundabout, before turning my attention to the Bakerloo line London Road Underground Train Depot, situated on the corner opposite.

I continued along Borough Road and onto Borough High Street, from where I turned right onto Trinity Street. Realising that I was going to end up going around in circles, I turned left onto Globe Street, which led me to Pilgrimage Street.

I found that I was in a small residential area with not much to offer, so I turned right onto Manciple Street, before turning left onto Hankey Place. And I was glad that I did.

This small street with its houses and flats had secrets to show. Along the low walls many of what I thought were iron railings were, in fact, ARP stretchers, left over from World War II. I had heard about these but had never seen them in person, so I was thrilled.

I exited Hankey Place and turned left onto Long Lane. before heading up Tennis Street to Angel Place. Now, Angel Place is a small alley that links Tennis Street with Borough High Street, but, again, this hides a secret. 

The tall brick wall, to one side, was once the south boundary wall of Marshalsea Prison, which stood near here until it closed in 1842. Behind it is St George's Churchyard Gardens, where I sat in the shade for a few minutes, before continuing on my walk.

Suitably rested I continued along Angel Place to Borough High Street. As it was approaching noon I thought I would find a watering hole and stop for a beverage. So, I continued up Borough High Street and crossed Southwark Street and found myself outside 'The Southwark Tavern'. And in I went.