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| A message from 'Beak and Squeak'. |
Monday January 5, 2026:
Sunny with Northwest wind at 9 mph.
2°C (35.6°F), but the windchill made it feel like -4°C
First walk of 2026.
I had arrived at Aldgate station early, so I had a wander around the edge of the City of London, while I awaited the arrival of Dyan, who would be accompanying me on today's walk. This would be Dyan's first walk with me, so I had picked a route that went along with some of her interests.
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| One of London's 'Slum' pubs, soon to be demolished. |
On leaving Aldgate station we headed along the very narrow Little Somerset Street, as I wanted to get some photos of the 'Still & Star' pub, before it gets pulled down. The pub closed in 2017 and is one of only a few 'Slum' pubs left in London. This pub was converted from a private house into licensed premises, in the 1820s. Rumours abound that the new developers are going to build a replica of the pub in front of their new office block. Which begs the question, "Why not keep the original building?"
We followed Little Somerset Street and joined Mansell Street, Goodman's Fields and the Prescot Street. Prescot Street was the first street, in London, where the buildings were numbered, rather than having signs hung outside. This practice spread, aiding the flourishing postal service.
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| A true Victorian pub. |
We passed the 'English Martyrs Church', built between 1873-1876 and then the 'Princess of Prussia', named for Victoria Louise, Queen Victoria’s granddaughter and the daughter of German emperor Wilhelm II. I must pop in here, one day.
We then joined Leman Street, heading south, before heading east along Cable Street. Dropping onto Grace's Alley we passed 'Wilton's Music Hall', London's last music hall, before rejoining Cable Street. We followed Cable Street to its junction with Cannon Street Road, site of the burial of John Williams, the alleged Ratcliff Highway Murderer, before turning south. We then entered the gardens of St George-in-the-East, where we looked at the forlorn and crumbling mortuary building, in which Elizabeth Stride's body was taken and the autopsy completed.
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| The ships at Tobacco Dock. |
On leaving the gardens we crossed The Highway and headed south along Wapping Lane, passing Tobacco Dock, with its two ships 'moored' beside the
Ornamental Canal.
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| St Peter's Church London Docks. |
We then visited St Peter's Church London Docks, which was an incredible building to see. It is set back from Wapping Lane behind an elaborate, tiled archway full of residential properties. And what a discovery. The high roof with its exposed timbers, along with its incredible size, were completely unexpected. On its south side is the 'Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham', which is a true gem. There was also a painting, by a local artist, of the Virgin Mary and the baby Jesus sitting besides London's Docks, which caught me by surprise.
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| A wonderful riverside pub. |
After exploring this amazing place we headed back outside and crossed Wapping Green. Unfortunately, 'Turner's Old Star' wasn't open, so we headed south, along Meeting House Alley, until we reached Wapping High Street and the 'Captain Kidd' pub. With drinks ordered I showed Dyan around the pub, before we moved outside to take in the views from its riverside garden.
