2025: A Year in Review

HMS Belfast 'fires' her guns.

What a year 2025 turned out to be!

I surpassed last year's walking and underground distances, while visiting new places, and some familiar places, with family and friends.

January

Almost good enough to eat.

Some of the highlights from January included visiting Paddington and Kensington, where we saw 'The Wild Table of Love', 'Man in a Clock', Kensington Gardens, Gnome Land (again), the Design Museum and Japan House. At Japan House Keilyn and I visited the 'Looks delicious! Exploring Japan's food replica culture' exhibition, which was a wonderful and informative exhibition, which Keilyn really enjoyed.

Camden, Hampstead Heath, 'London School of Mosaic', the 'World Peace Garden' and the Regent's Park were all visited, too.

The 'Whitechapel Bell Foundry', 'Trinity Green Almshouses', the Regent's Canal, Mile End Park and Ropemakers Fields, Canary Wharf and Trinity Buoy Wharf, for what would be the first of three visits this year.

February

Knight of Cnihtengild.

February saw me partaking in only a few walks. I saw the statue of the 'Knight of Cnihtengild' by Denys Mitchell, Elsyng Spital Church Tower, the Bell Building in Lambeth and the 'Sam the Cat' statue, all while learning much more.

March

BBC Television Centre.

Some of the highlights from March saw us visit Swiss Cottage, Lancaster Gate, Portobello Road Market, BBC Television Centre, Shepherd's Bush Market and 'The Princess Victoria', one of London's last 'Gin Palaces'. 

Crystal Palace Park and its dinosaurs, Primrose Hill, Camley Street Natural Park, the 'Word on the Water' bookshop on a boat, the grave of Joseph Grimaldi and various alleyways were also explored. A highlight was Emma and I staying at The Tower Hotel, for our anniversary.

April

Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper).

April highlights included visiting Barbican, the 'hidden' garden at St Vedast-alias-Foster, seeing possibly the oldest tree in the City of London, Tower Hill Market, Borough Market and Lambeth, where we discovered a piano that was once played by Charlie Chaplin Senior. 

East India Docks, the 'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)', West India Docks, Trinity Buoy Wharf (second visit) and the Royal Docks.

'Sculptures' by Andrew Baldwin, Trinity Buoy Wharf

Andrew Baldwin's 'Cab Tree' above the Orchard Cafe.

Trinity Buoy Wharf is full of things to discover. From its historic buildings and vessels, to exhibitions and sculptures.

Many of these sculptures, dotted around the site, are free to visit and were created by Andrew Baldwin. They are an eclectic mix.

'Aqua Gill' by Andrew Baldwin.

A master blacksmith and welder, for 28 years, Andrew Baldwin always had an interest in Victorian engineering. This, coupled with his skill at metalworking and his wild imagination, is what has helped him create some seriously outlandish sculptures.

Quirky, eerie, scary and wonderful in equal measure, these mechanical sculptures are fascinating to behold.

Trinity Buoy Wharf Chain Store and Lighthouse.

Then there are the non-mechanical sculptures, such as a metal lighthouse and this profile of Trinity Buoy Lighthouse and Chain Store.

Andrew Baldwin's work is constantly changing and evolving, but there is always a varied selection of his work on display, all over the Trinity Buoy Wharf site. 

A Robin visits Andrew Baldwin's 'Man' sculpture.

'Longplayer' by Jem Finer

Part of the 'Longplayer Live' instrument.

Within Trinity Buoy Wharf Lighthouse is a unique musical experience. A musical composition, entitled 'Longplayer', that will play for 1,000 years.

On the first floor you can walk around part of the 66-foot-wide orchestral instrument, which is used to perform 'Longplayer Live', while listening to 'Longplayer' being streamed into the room.

However, the Lantern Room, at the top of the Lighthouse, is the best place to hear 'Longplayer', while taking in the unique views on offer.

'Longplayer' has been running since the year 2000.

What is 'Longplayer'?

'Longplayer' is the brainchild of Jem Finer and is a 1,000-year-long musical composition that has been playing continuously since the first moments of the year 2000. It is designed to play on, without interruption and repetition, until the last moments of 2999.

Since it began, 'Longplayer' has been performed simultaneously by a number of computers around the world - from its primary location at Trinity Buoy Wharf Lighthouse to listening posts in Alexandria, Brisbane and San Francisco. It can also be heard anywhere in the world via an online audio stream at Longplayer.org.

Singing Bowls.

How does it work?

Composed by Jem Finer, 'Longplayer' is written for a set of highly resonant 'Singing Bowls', an ancient type of standing bell. These bells are sounded according to a precisely timed score, itself based on six simple algorithms. The resulting music is made up of six continuous, interlocking musical patterns whose harmonic and rhythmic interactions change gradually over hours, days, decades and centuries.

'Floodtide' (Tidal Sonification) by John Eacott and Andrew Baldwin

The 'Floodtide' (Tidal Sonification) listening post, at Trinity Buoy Wharf, makes music that is determined by the tide of the River Thames, which is then played through the mechanical organ.

A sensor, submerged from the pier, reads tidal flow data, such as height and speed, which is then converted into musical parameters like pitch, duration, and volume using a computer algorithm. 

The algorithm translates the tidal data into musical scores, which can be displayed on screens or mobile devices, so that musicians can incorporate the music into their own works.

'Floodtide' performances have taken place in various locations, including the Royal Observatory, Greenwich and the Southbank Centre, with each performance reflecting the unique characteristics of the location's tides. 

The machine was built by Andrew Baldwin, while the music by John Eacott.

'Alunatime' by Laura Williams

'Alunatime', by Laura Williams, was launched on the Full Moon of October 22, 2010, and is the first, live 'real time' graphical notation of light and time.

It shows the lunar phases (wax and wane), the lunar day (rise and set) and tide cycles (ebb and flow). Governed by the relative position of the Earth, Moon and Sun, these fundamental rhythms have shaped our past and will continue to determine our future.

The Moon creates our tides and, with 70% of the Earth's surface covered in water, understanding the rising tides brought on by climate change, is becoming more important than ever.

Historic Vessels, Trinity Buoy Wharf

'Diana' built in 1890.

Not only is Trinity Buoy Wharf home to historic buildings and home to various artists and sculptures, but it also home to some historic vessels. These vessels are of national importance, so it is important that they are preserved.

DIANA

'Diana' is a rivetted steel/wrought-iron Thames Lighter built in 1890 by unknown London builders. She is typical of many hundreds of 'barges' used on the River Thames, canals, tributaries, docks and the  Port of London for the transport of cargo, aggregates and supplies between wharves, warehouses and ships.

Usually towed singly or in large groups by river or dock tugs, they were also hand rowed by one man going with the tide, this is known as ‘barge driving’ and is still celebrated in the annual Thames Barge Driving Match.

'Knocker White' built in 1924.

KNOCKER WHITE

'Knocker White' is a Dutch-built tugboat, but was originally the steam tug 'Cairnrock'. She was built by T.Van Duijvendijk’s yard at Lekkerkek near Rotterdam, for Harrisons (London) Lighterage Limited, in 1924. The steam engine came from Crabtree & Co. while the boiler came from Blair & Co. Limited They were fitted at Fellow’s & Co. Limited’s dry dock, Great Yarmouth. 

In the early years of the vessel’s history, the 'Cairnrock' was used to tow Harrisons’ floating steam-powered coal elevator 'Wotan' around the lower reaches of the River Thames. The tug was designed for general towage work and had the ability to 'drop-down' her funnel for up-river work, that required passing under the bridges.

'Knocker White' built in 1924.

In 1960, the tug was acquired by Alfred White and then passed to W E White and Sons (Towage) Limited, in 1962. It was at this time that the tug’s name was changed and the original engine and boiler removed. Two 'Petters' marine diesel engines were fitted with their associated fuel tanks. Alterations were also made to the wheelhouse, with an external forward companionway, that provided separate access to the main cabin. The original funnel was replaced by another drop-down funnel, made in around 1943, which was removed from the steam tug 'Pinklake'.

She is now preserved as a museum ship.

'Lightship LV95', built in 1939.

Walking with family: Canning Town to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Bow Creek.

Sunday April 27, 2025. Another Sunday and another trip to London. 

Keilyn, my mum and I took a leisurely stroll to Watford Metropolitan station, where we caught a Baker Street-bound train to Finchley Road, from where we caught a Stratford-bound train to Canning Town. With a football match, at Wembley Stadium, and the London Marathon, across London, the trains were a little busier than normal, but they soon cleared after we passed Canada Water.

'After the Dance' by Colin Spofforth

At Canning Town we took the lift to Footbridge Level and made our way across to City Island and Hopewell Square, and its sculpture entitled 'After the Dance', before we explored the wonderfully landscaped green spaces along Bow Creek and the River Lea. Because we were further east, than the eastern point of the London Marathon on the north bank, City Island was deserted.

We then had a short wander around East India Basin, before heading to Trinity Buoy Wharf.

Hot chocolate time.

Our first stop was at the Orchard Café, where drinks and food were ordered, which we finished while sitting at one of the tables. The beverages and pastries were wonderful, while the service was impeccable.

Keilyn, the photographer.

On leaving the café, we kept to the wharf wall, so that we could take in the historic vessels and the various sculptures dotted around. Then we entered the Faraday Effect shed and explored a little more.

After checking out the Faraday Effect, Keilyn led us into the Bow Creek Lighthouse, clambering up the stone stairs to the first floor, excited to see, and hear, 'Longplayer' again. Mum and I soon caught up to her, before she was leading us up the final set of stairs to the Lantern Room, where you can hear 'Longplayer' a lot clearer, whilst also taking in the views along the River Thames. Another visitor, to the lighthouse, was already in the Lantern Room, listening quietly to the music, and kindly offered to take a photo of the three of us.

Just the three of us.

After the photo and we had sat for a few minutes, we made our way downstairs and out of the lighthouse to look at more of the buildings and sculptures. We then made our way into the Trinity Art Studios, where we looked at paintings, sculptures and other pieces of art.

Now, we had a decision to make. Use the Lea Crossing, and head to the Royal Docks, or head towards Canary Wharf.

Sailing boats and the O2 Arena.

We headed west, walking through East India Basin and saw some small sail boats heading up the river. From here we headed to Virginia Quay and Prime Meridian Walk, before turning onto Newport Avenue, where we stopped at a convenience store to purchase some lunch and more drinks. We ate our baguettes in the shade, below the DLR, before heading up to platform level, where we caught a DLR train to Poplar.

Reuters Plaza.

Arriving at Poplar we used the lift to reach street level, following Aspen Way until we reached Upper Bank Street. Ahead of us we could see the bustle of spectators cheering on the marathon runners, which we soon got caught up in. After watching some of the competitors, from a vantage point at the corner of Canada Square and North Colonnade, we headed along South Colonnade until we reached Reuters Plaza. I have never seen this plaza filled with so many people, as shoppers mingled with fans and residents, all heading in opposing directions.

Walking with Keilyn: West India Docks to East India Docks... and beyond

Sunday April 13, 2025.

Another Sunday and another Walk with Keilyn.

We began our day with a walk to Watford Metropolitan station, with food, snacks and drinks all packed in my rucksack. We boarded the train and headed off towards London. We switched to a Jubilee line train, at Finchley Road, and continued our journey to Canary Wharf.

On exiting Canary Wharf station we began our walk by heading through Jubilee Park, checking out some of the Canary Wharf Public Art, and Easter Eggs, on our way to Wood Wharf.

Approaching Wood Wharf we could easily spot 'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)', the latest piece to join the Canary Wharf Public Art trail. Standing at four-storeys, and made of 5 tonnes of recycled plastic, the whale towered over the crowds that come to see it. 

From here we continued eastward, along Branran Street and onto Lovegrove Walk, before we joined Preston's Road. From here we walked along Coldharbour, passing 'The Gun' public house and then Nelson House, before rejoining Preston's Road.

We then walked around, the now sealed, Blackwall Basin Entrance Lock, before rejoining the Thames Path North East Extension.

A compass, in the ground, was bisected by the Prime Meridian Line, so Keilyn could stand on both east and west of the line. 

We then continued along the path until we reached Virginia Quay and the Virginia Quay Settlers Monument.

With time getting on we stopped to eat our lunch, at East India Quay, enjoying the peace and tranquillity of the River Thames and the view across to the MillenniuM Dome.

'Time and Tide Bell' by Marcus Vergette

Attached to the sea wall of Trinity Buoy Wharf is this bell, designed by the sculptor Marcus Vergette.

The unique design of the bell, developed by Marcus Vergette and Dr Neil McLachlan, means the bell is rung by the river to mark each high tide. Uniquely, from just one strike the bell sounds different notes one after the other to form a melody.

"Fixed in space, rung by the power of nature, yet making ever-changing sounds, the bell symbolises the complex relationship between man and his environment. The Time and Tide Bell creates, celebrates and reinforces connections between our history and our environment. Here at Trinity Buoy Wharf Leamouth, it will serve as a powerful marker of sea level rise at the very heart of our maritime history." 

- Marcus Vergette

The Trinity Buoy Wharf Bell was launched at high tide on September 19, 2010.

Part of the 'Time and Tide Series', this 3 metre tall bell, cast in aluminium bronze, is third in a planned series of twelve bells, located throughout the United Kingdom. 

The first bell was installed at Appledore, North Devon, while the second was installed at Great Bernera, Outer Hebrides.

'SS Robin', Historic Vessel

Awaiting a permanent home.

The 'SS Robin' is the world's only surviving complete Victorian steamship.

Along with her sister ship, 'SS Rook', 'SS Robin' was built at Orchard House Yard, in 1889, launching in September 1890. 

Orchard House Yards, and much of the banks of the River Thames, were considered the world centre for shipbuilding, at the time, with the proud tradition going back many hundreds of years. This made London a global trading empire, whilst also supplying the bulk of ships for the Royal and Merchant Navies.

One of the largest yards in the country, The Thames Iron Works, would build some of the biggest ships, either side of the River Lea, at Bow Creek.

By 1890, however, the northeast coast of England and shipbuilders in Scotland had become the leading shipbuilders, with their lower overheads, resulting in The Thames Iron Works closing in 1912.

Robin and Rook.

Robert Thomson, a ship broker and owner, ordered both ships constructed on slipways and built by Ditchburn & Mare, in 1845. Ditchburn & Mare was later owned by The Thames Iron Works and Ship Building Company, who then leased the yard to shipwright William Jolly, a Thames barge builder. 

He started construction before selling the business shortly after to Mackenzie, McAlpine and Company. Both builders were inexperienced, ill equipped and struggled to complete the orders to a standard high enough to satisfy Lloyd’s. 

Robert Thompson took over the work himself, eventually, paying a naval architect superintendent to complete the ships on his behalf. The ships were complete to Lloyd’s highest class of 100A1. 

'Robin' and 'Rook' were to be the last ships built at the yard, which closed immediately after.

Following their launch they went to the East India Docks, which were nearby, for final fitting out. 'Robin' was later towed to Dundee where her boiler, triple expansion engine and ancillary machinery were installed, by Gourlay Brothers & Company Limited. 

Although rigged as an auxiliary three-masted schooner she was designed to carry sails, should they be needed. 

SS Robin and Lightship 93, at the Royal Docks.

Maiden Voyage.

Having been sold into the service of Arthur C. Ponsonby & Company of Newport, South Wales, her first voyage was from Liverpool to Bayonne, France, in 1890. Her crew consisted of twelve men.

Her next voyage began in Swansea, in 1891, and saw her visit Rouen, the Mersey, Plymouth, Deauville, Guernsey, London, Rochester, Newport, Bristol, Swansea, Cherbourg, and back again to the Thames. This would be her trading route for the following years, carrying bulk cargoes of china clay, coal, grain, iron ore, railway rail and scrap steel, as well as general cargoes of baled and casked goods. 

Orchard Place and Trinity Buoy Wharf: A Brief History

The Hope and Orchard

Throughout the middle ages Orchard Place was green and rural, remaining that way into the late 18th century.

Orchard House and its orchard, which took up most of the eastern branch, was owned by Mr Wright from 1743-1766.

Goodluck Hope took up much of the northern branch of the peninsula and belonged to the Manor of Stepney. It had a cooperage, a fishery, grazing meadows and a good sized house, called Handlebury. It was also known as Hanbury or Handle Hall and was demolished in 1804.

In 1810 Robert Wigram, who was an East India merchant who had helped to set up the East India Dock Company, in 1803, bought Goodluck Hope, calling it the Wigram Estate.

In 1815 the East India Company bought Orchard House, as the new East India Docks were just next door.

The first industry on Bow Creek was a copperas works. Bow Creek was ideal for this work as London Clay was full of iron pyrites, from which copperas could be extracted. Copperas, an iron sulphate, was used as an ingredient in sulphuric acid, as a fixative for wool and, up until the 19th century, it made the black of ink.

By the late 18th century competition from the north had grown too strong for copperas works in the south. This, along with other factors, saw the last of the copperas works close, early in the 19th century.

Mapping History

Between 1700 and 1820 Orchard Place was transformed from a semi-rural backwater to a busy centre of national importance for trade and industry. So many businesses sprang up, went bust or grew and moved that the maps of 19th century Orchard Place are different every decade.

The Age of Iron and Steam

In 1810 an iron bridge was built to provide a road linking East India Docks and Canning Town, but had to be torn down, in 1887, after a collier barge crashed into it.

In 1840 a railway was opened to link Orchard Place with the City, with trains leaving from Fenchurch Street and arriving at Blackwall station. This would become the London and Blackwall Railway that not only transported goods, but people who were taking trips to the seaside via a paddle steamer. These steamers went to Gravesend and Rosherville Gardens, Northfleet.

In 1862 the Great Eastern Railway was formed, running services to East Anglia. It's locomotives were built at Stratford, while the engine sheds were just up river from Orchard Place.

In 1902 the Midlands manufacturers, Baldwins Limited, brought the Blackwall Galvanised Iron Company to Orchard Place, where they had workshops for much of the 20th century. One of the directors was Stanley Baldwin, who would go on to become Prime Minister.

The Thames Plate Glass Company

The Thames Plate Glass Company, founded in 1835, was the only plate glass factory in the South of England, and was famed for the size of glass it produced and for the finish. No other glass company could match the size of glass produced here. Nearly half of its employees were women, as their 'superior delicacy of touch' allowed for better grinding and polishing of the glass.

Its glass was used for lenses, mirrors, theatre scenery and the Bow Creek Lighthouse, which still stands, and in which Michael Faraday experimented.

In 1862 Henry Dircks and John Pepper used Thames Plate Glass to create a theatrical optical illusion that would go on to be called 'Dr Pepper's Ghost'. So popular was this illusion that the company sold out of Ghost glass.

Well known for embracing the latest technologies, the Thames Plate Glass Company was the first to use the glass rollers designed by Sir Henry Bessemer.

In 1874, following competition from the North, and abroad, the company closed.

Bow Creek Lighthouse: London's Only Lighthouse

On the Leamouth Peninsula, where the River Thames and Bow Creek meet, lies Trinity Buoy Wharf, in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

The site was used by the Brethren of Trinity House, now known as Corporation of Trinity House, from 1803, with the sea wall being constructed in 1822.

A photo of both lighthouses, circa 1900s.

Originally there were two lighthouses, with one being built in 1852, by James Walker, and the other between 1864-1866, by James Douglas. The former was demolished in the 1920s, while the latter one still stands today.

Both lighthouses were used to train lighthouse keepers and for testing lighting systems, not for their true purpose, as the River Thames is not that dangerous a stretch of water.

The original lantern, at the top of the lighthouse, came from the Paris Exposition of 1867, where Trinity House had demonstrated improved systems of electric lighting for lighthouses.

Michael Faraday set up a workshop, next door to the lighthouse, and carried out experiments here, discovering the principles underlying electromagnetic induction, electrolysis and diamagnetism.

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Saturday January 25, 2025.

Another Saturday and another trip to London was in order.

Up. Dressed. Keilyn and I take an Uber to the station. Meet Steve. Underground to Finchley Road. Underground to Aldgate.

Reaching the end of the line, Steve, Keilyn and I left Aldgate station and immediately grabbed a hot drink from the coffee shop outside the station. Then, with drinks in hand, we set off... heading east.

Heading along Aldgate High Street we crossed St Botolph Street and continued along Whitechapel High Street and onto Whitechapel Road, soon coming to Whitechapel Market, with its hustle and bustle and aromatic smells.

We passed the old Whitechapel Dell Foundry, the Royal London Hospital and the Blind Beggar pub, briefly toying with the idea of heading south, through Shadwell to the River Thames, but instead continued east along Mile End Road.

Statues, sculptures and fascinating architecture lined our route with Trinity Green and its Almshouses being a highlight, with stone ships mounted atop the ends of the Almshouses.

We continued our walk, passing Stepney Green station and the huge campus that is Queen Mary University of London, until we reached The Regent's Canal.

Realising that we would soon end up on Stratford or Ilford, if Keilyn had her way, we decided to join the towpath and follow the canal to the River Thames.

Swans, coots, moorhens, ducks and geese were happily gliding along the still water surface, while Herons stood on the bank, or stood motionless in Mile End Park, oblivious to the joggers and families using the space.

We passed the Ragged School Museum, with its cafe full of patrons, and continued alongside the canal until we reached Limehouse Basin, with its myriad barges, boats and yachts.

From here it was a short walk through Ropemakers Fields to Narrow Street, using the bridge to cross Limekiln Dock, to reach Limehouse Hole Stairs. As the tide was out we dropped down onto the small beach and enjoyed the unseasonably warm heat of the sun.

As we climbed back up to street level I could just make out a conversation between a young woman and a much older man, but there was no one around that matched the sounds. Joggers were plugged into their devices, while families were pointing out the sights. As I stood and listened I realised that the voices were coming from a silver bench. Sitting down I realised that it was a recorded interview about life on the docks, being played through speakers at either end of the bench. It is such a clever idea.

We continued along Loverose Way before crossing onto Heron Quays Road, making our way around Middle Dock, heading for the Henry Addington pub, where we would have dinner.