St Olave's Church, Hart Street

Tucked away in the heart of London sits St Olave Hart Street, one of the precious few medieval churches to miraculously survive the Great Fire of 1666. While the surrounding city crumbled into ash, St Olave’s stood firm. Today, it remains a captivating time capsule, boasting direct connections to the Black Plague, the American Revolution, and legendary writers.

Here is the incredible story of a sanctuary that has weathered nearly a thousand years of British history.

From Viking Warrior to Stone Sanctuary (1014–1450)

The deep roots of St Olave’s stretch back to a bloody battle for the throne of England. In 1014, Olaf Haraldsson, a Norwegian king, supported the English King Ethelred "the Unready" in a fierce battle at London Bridge to reclaim the city from the pagan Danes. Olaf, who had been baptised into the Christian faith in Rouen, France, was later canonised as the patron saint and "Perpetual King" of Norway.

Local legend suggests that St Olave’s Church was built right on the site of that historic battle. Around AD 1050, the first church was erected here as a humble timber structure. As London grew, the church grew with it; it was rebuilt in stone during the 13th century, and expanded again in 1450 under the wealthy patronage of Richard Cely, a prominent wool merchant. Visitors today can still step down into the eerie, atmospheric crypt that dates entirely from this medieval era.

Walking with friends: Finsbury Park to Highgate... and beyond

Sunday July 26, 2026.

Partly cloudy with a high of 24°C (75°F) with the chance of light rain in the morning.

I had arranged to meet up with my friend Steve for a walk in London, so I was up, ready and out of the house by 08:30, making the short walk to Watford Underground station. Steve had arrived just before me, so there was no waiting around. We headed through the ticket barriers, down the stairs and boarded the Baker Street bound train that was preparing to leave from Platform 2.

Soon we were speeding through the Hertfordshire countryside towards London. Approaching Northwood a few spots of rain began to pepper the windows of the train, but it didn't last. As we pulled into Harrow-on-the-Hill station, the heritage railway locomotive 'Sarah Siddons' was waiting to take passengers to Amersham. Unfortunately, because of where we were seated, and the fact that another train was at the next platform, I was unable to take a photo. 

Arriving at Finchley Road we exited the train and waited 6-minutes for an Aldgate train. When it arrived it was almost full to capacity, filled with foreign students and teachers. Fortunately, we were only going as far as King's Cross St Pancras, so we were happy to stand. At King's Cross St Pancras we left the train and headed along the platform, following the signs for the Victoria line. Up countless stairs, along corridors, down escalators we travelled, until we finally reached the Northbound platform, where the train pulled away right after we boarded. The train whisked us north-eastwards below the streets of Highbury & Islington, before turning north beneath Canonbury and Highbury, before we arrived at our starting location of Finsbury Park.

Our first stop was at the 'Portrait Bench', which consists of three silhouettes. DJ, record producer and founder of Soul II Soul, Jazzy B. Florence Keen, who founded the North Islington Welfare Centre and School for Mothers, in 1913. At that time over 10% of local children died before their 5th birthday. Her work reduced that death rate considerably. Edith Margaret Garrud, who was born in 1872. She was a member of the Suffragette movement and taught the women martial arts, specifically Ju Jitsu, so that they could fight off police officers. She was the first British teacher in the art of Ju Jitsu and the first female martial arts instructor in the western world. She died in 1971. It was the latter statue that I was most interested in, having studied Ju Jitsu myself.

Aldgate Pump

At the corner of Leadenhall Street and Fenchurch Street, where the two streets join to form Aldgate High Street, you will find a stone obelisk with a lantern mounted to its top.

It is no ordinary obelisk, but is in fact the Aldgate Pump, a historic landmark point that marks the beginning of the East End and was mentioned by Charles Dickens, as well as being sung about in traditional rhymes and songs.

It was originally situated further west, on the site of what was to become Fenchurch Street station.

The freshwater well was fed from one of London's many underground rivers, beginning its journey in Hampstead, to the north, and had been used since the 13th century. The water was said to be "bright, sparkling and cool and of a pleasant flavour".

However, it was later discovered that the water was contaminated. The decaying organic matter and calcium from the bones of dead Londoners, in the nearby cemeteries, had begun to leach into the underground rivers and streams.

So, in 1876, when the Aldgate Pump was moved to its new location, it was connected to the mains water supply.

This current pump is made of Portland stone, and dates from the 18th century, while the brass wolf's head spout is 19th century. The lantern, at the top of the obelisk, is a handmade replica of the original, which was lost in 1900.

In 2019 the City of London Corporation, with the assistance of the Heritage of London Trust, repaired and restored the pump. Some of the money came from Miss Anthea Gray, who had left a generous gift in her Will, to the Heritage of London Trust.

'Nancy's Steps', Old London Bridge

'Nancy's Steps'.

These steps, on the southwest side of London Bridge, the arch and a few remaining pedestrian alcoves are pretty much all that is left, in England, of John Rennie's London Bridge. 

Old London Bridge pedestrian alcove, Victoria Park.

One alcove sits in the quadrangle of Guy's Hospital, while another can be found in Victoria Park.

The rest of the bridge was sold to Robert McCulloch, who had it dismantled and shipped to America, where it was rebuilt in Lake Havasu City, Arizona.

A surviving arch of John Rennie's London Bridge.

These steps are often called 'Nancy's Steps', in reference to the character of Nancy, from the novel 'Oliver Twist', by Charles Dickens.

In the novel Bill Sikes murders Nancy in a room, while Bill's dog, Bull's-Eye, watches on. 

However, in the 1968 movie, 'Oliver!', Nancy is murdered on the steps of London Bridge by Bill Sikes.

Shorely Shome Mishtake.

This makes the Blue Plaque, affixed to the wall of the surviving arch of John Rennie's London Bridge, incorrect.

You can read more about London Bridge by clicking on the link below.

London Bridge

Marshalsea Prison South Wall

Angel Place is an alley that leads from Borough High Street to Tennis Street, passing St George's Churchyard Gardens.

The wall that separates the gardens from the alley is all that remains of the south wall of Marshalsea Prison, a notorious debtor's prison that stood, in one state or another, on this site.

Brief History

The first Marshalsea Prison, 1373-1811, was located at what is now 161 Borough High Street and housed men accused of crimes at sea, political prisoners and debtors.

'Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese'

Is that the River Fleet, I hear?

One of my favourite pubs, in the City of London, is Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. I first discovered it a number of years back, when I ducked into an alleyway to avoid some freezing rain, on a cold January day. Seeing the light of the pub I wandered in.

Heading into the cellar.

On entering I found it to be quite dark, with wood panelling and little in the way of natural light. Spread across a number of floors, with various bars, it has a feeling of being lost in time.

Throughout the reigns of...

Once my eyes adjusted to the diffused light, the building almost came alive with its history.

A cosy little space in the cellar.

Buying a pint of bitter I took a seat in one of the near empty spaces and savoured the atmosphere of this historic place.

'The Dickens Inn'

Dickensian.

It was while strolling around St Katharine Dock and Marina that I spotted this beautiful old converted warehouse. Intrigued by its name, and style, I decided to find out more about this fascinating building.

'The Grapes'

Grape Expectations.

The first time I discovered The Grapes, it was too early in the day to pay it a visit, so I made a plan to return to it. Sure enough, two months later, I did return and I was not disappointed.

The Grapes; A narrow pub on Narrow Street

It is a narrow space, but quite long, stretching back to a terrace, that overlooks the river. There is a spacious dining room, upstairs, where a mouth-watering selection of food can be savoured. I opted to eat downstairs, choosing from the pub grub menu; Cumberland sausage, creamy mash with a caramelised onion gravy, washed down with a pint of St. Edmunds. Beautiful.

'The George Inn'

The Unfinished City's last 'galleried' coaching inn.

The George Inn is one of those places that has existed, in some form or another, in the great Unfinished City for centuries. Unlike some other places of this age, though, The George Inn still retains all of the character that you would associate with something of this bygone era. From walking through the bars, that were frequented by Charles Dickens and William Shakespeare, to walking along the gallery, with its uneven and creaky floorboards, you get a real sense of history.