Walking with Keilyn: Euston Square to the City of London... and beyond

Sunday June 8, 2025.

Keilyn and I decided that we should head to London to see the 'Nao Santa Maria', which was berthed at St Katharine Docks, as today was its last day, in London. So, we headed off.

A taxi to the station and we were soon London-bound. We changed to an Aldgate train, at Finchley Road, and alighted at Euston Square, which is a fair distance from St Katharine Docks, but there is nothing like a good wander.

We headed along Gower Street, passing the Grant Museum of Zoology and the impressive University of London buildings, before reaching Bedford Square and the throngs of people heading into the British Museum. A little further and Bloomsbury Street brought us out onto New Oxford Street, which we headed along until we reached our first stop of the day... the Post Building.

We entered the building, signed in and passed through the security arch. Keilyn then placed her rucksack in one of the lettered lockers, choosing 'K' to match her name. We then entered the lift and made our way up to the ninth floor and the roof garden.

On my previous visits the flowers and shrubs had not fully bloomed, but today everything was flowering and the trees had full canopies. Although cloudy it was a pleasant day and the views were clear all the way to the horizon. The Centre Point building, the BT Tower, the British Museum and around to the Renaissance Hotel at King's Cross. Then the unique skyscrapers of the City of London, with Canary Wharf in the distance. Tower Bridge, the Shard and 22 Bishopsgate and around to the Palace of Westminster, Westminster Abbey and Cathedral to Battersea Power Station and beyond. The BBC Transmitter, at Crystal Palace, was clearly visible, too, as was the Wembley Stadium Arch.

Once we had seen everything, and Keilyn had used her 'Seek' app to discover the names of the various plants, we headed back down to ground level, retrieved her rucksack, and headed east along New Oxford Street.

New Oxford Street brought us onto High Holborn, then Holborn and Holborn Viaduct. Nearing St Paul's Cathedral, with its crowds of visitors, we headed along Cheapside, passing possibly the oldest tree in the City of London, before we joined Poultry and then Cornhill.

Always up for an adventure Keilyn kept peering down the countless passages and alleyways that were dotted along our route, deciding that Ball Court looked like a great alleyway to explore. So down it we went and arrived in a small courtyard with a tavern. Simpson's Tavern dates back to 1757 and is a wonderful looking building, that is, unfortunately, temporarily closed. 

We continued out of the courtyard and found ourselves on Castle Court, with more old style buildings and the famous Jamaica Wine House, which stands on the site of London's first coffee house.

From here we headed along St Michael's Alley, which brought us to Bell Inn Yard and out onto Gracechurch Street. Since Keilyn had never seen Leadenhall Market we headed inside, dodging the photographers, who were snapping the parts used in the Harry Potter films, and the diners and other visitors. 

We then crossed Lime Street and walked along Cullum Street, where Keilyn sat down and I took some photos of the amazing Bolton House, before we continued our walk to Fenchurch Street, which we followed towards Aldgate. 

Various sculptures were dotted around, that we both took photos of, before we found ourselves on Mitre Square, former site of the Priory of the Holy Trinity and also the place where Catherine Eddowes was murdered by Jack the Ripper, in 1888.

We left Mitre Square via St James's Passage which brought us to Duke's Place and St Botolph Street. It was here that I lifted Keilyn up, so that she could see over the wall and look down at the platforms of Aldgate station.

We then headed south, along Mansell Street, turned west along Shorter Street and arrived at Tower Hill Garden. Snacks, drinks and sandwiches were all pretty much devoured, before we used the underpass to reach the south side of Tower Hill. Here we got to see the meadow that has been created in the old moat. We then followed the path onto St Katharine's Way, which brought us nicely to St Katharine Docks and Marina.

'Timepiece Sundial' by Wendy Ann Taylor

The sundial is one of man's oldest astronomical instruments.

In this particular form, known as an Equinoctial Sundial, the dial is in the same plane as the Earth's equator and the gnomon, or rod, is parallel to the axis of the Earth pointing true north.

The shadow of the gnomon moving across the dial indicates the time. In summer the shadow falls on the face of the dial, in winter on the inner edge.

Retracting Footbridge, St Katharine Docks

The original footbridge.

St Katharine Docks, which was the only major project of Thomas Telford in London, opened in 1828. His idea was to use as much of the land as possible for warehouses and to limit quayside space, ensuring cargo was lifted directly into the warehouses.

Because of the way he designed the docks, narrow footpaths allowed workers to walk around the site. However, to get from one side of the dock to the other could take some time, so Thomas Rhodes, the resident engineer of Telford, designed this retractable bridge, between the Central Basin and the East Dock.

Constructed with iron castings and wrought iron forgings, by John Lloyd, the bridge was linked to rail-mounted cast iron counterweight boxes that allowed it to stretch across the dock. Using a rack and pinion system the bridge could be retracted into the masonry of the dock walls.

The housing for the bridge.

Walking with Emma: 13th anniversary weekend

Tower Bridge and The Shard at sunset.

Friday March 7, 2025.

As Monday 10th would be the 13th anniversary of our wedding, Emma had booked us a stay at the Tower Hotel, as a present for me.

With our girls at school, then off to my mum's for the night, Emma and I set off.

Uber to Watford Metropolitan station, a train to Finchley Road, then a Jubilee line train to London Bridge.

As we made our way along Tooley Street, heading to More London Place, I was surprised at how quiet it was, considering the temperature was at 18°C (64.4°F, for my continental friends).

His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London.

Meandering around The Scoop and the old City Hall building, I stopped to take some photos of the City of London and His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, before we passed under Tower Bridge, to Shad Thames, where we stopped for a coffee at Starbucks.

The Tower Hotel.

Sitting beside The Vault 1894 beer garden, we sipped our coffees and looked across the River Thames towards the Tower Hotel, where we would be spending the night. Usually we are more than happy to stay at Premier Inn, as their beds are incredibly comfortable and their breakfasts are equally as good. But, as it was a special occasion, plus the fact that I had always wanted to stay there, ever since I first saw it on TV and film, Emma had secretly booked it. Plus, according to all of their Social Media releases, it offered unparalleled views of Tower Bridge... unless your room was at the back. In which case you would probably have a great view of St Katharine Docks and Marina, which is still pretty cool.

With our beverages finished, we climbed the well-worn stairs to bridge level and crossed Tower Bridge.

Once on the north bank we made our way down the stairs and sat beside David Wynne's 'Girl with a Dolphin' sculpture, before heading into the Tower Hotel reception.

A Starbucks in the Tower Hotel lobby.

The brutalist style exterior architecture, of this 1973 building, was a complete juxtaposition with the shiny interior, with its marbled columns and mirrors, making the lobby seem larger and grander than expected.

There were plenty of people working at reception, so we didn't have to wait to check in. The receptionist, named Padam, was polite and professional and seemed genuinely interested in why we had booked this hotel, congratulating us on our anniversary, asking what our plans for the weekend were and generally made us feel welcomed. After taking our payment, and handing us our key, he promised us that our room had one of the best views and then gestured us towards a bank of four lifts.

There is nothing brutalist about the interior of the Tower Hotel.

The lift was silent and its movement was barely susceptible as it raised us to the fifth floor. On exiting the lift, we turned right and right again, following the corridor, before a sign told us that our room was down the corridor to our left. Onward we went until we reached our room. My mental GPS had been calculating our location, within the hotel, and I knew that, with the room on our left, we were in for a decent view. I was not wrong. 

A standard Tower Hotel room.

On entering the room our bathroom was to our left, with three doors, to our right, hiding the wardrobes. The main room was spacious, with a bed to our left and, on our right, a desk (hiding a small fridge containing complimentary drinks), and TV. Bedside tables, 3D art, paintings and an arm chair completed the room. Directly in front of us, the window spanned the width of the room. And the view?

The view from the fifth floor.

The view was everything that we had hoped for. Tower Bridge and The Shard were our view, while in the distance Crystal Palace Tower could be seen on the horizon.

After settling in, refreshing ourselves and changing, we made our way downstairs into the warm spring evening. By now the sun had set (or, rather, the Earth was completing another rotation, hiding the sun from our view) as we made our way around St Katharine Docks, with its still waters and reflected lights. 'Gloriana', the Queen's Rowbarge, was moored in the marina, along with yachts, barges and boats of varying size and style.

Following the path we made our way to Zizzi, via Coronarium Bridge, where we would be dining. Our plan had been to eat at the Dickens Inn, but Emma had read the recent reviews and wasn't that impressed, so we had booked Zizzi, instead.

The staff, our server was named Charlotte, the atmosphere, the food... was perfect. 

After settling the bill Emma and I went for another walk around the Docks and Marina, with a slight diversion, as Telford's retracting footbridge is under repair. Although the temperature had dropped, slightly, it was still warm, as we walked along the River Thames, listening to the various parties going on some boats, while families walked along, taking photos of Tower Bridge in all of its night time glory.

With time getting on we headed back to the hotel and returned to our room, to settle in for the night. 

'SS Robin', Historic Vessel

Awaiting a permanent home.

The 'SS Robin' is the world's only surviving complete Victorian steamship.

Along with her sister ship, 'SS Rook', 'SS Robin' was built at Orchard House Yard, in 1889, launching in September 1890. 

Orchard House Yards, and much of the banks of the River Thames, were considered the world centre for shipbuilding, at the time, with the proud tradition going back many hundreds of years. This made London a global trading empire, whilst also supplying the bulk of ships for the Royal and Merchant Navies.

One of the largest yards in the country, The Thames Iron Works, would build some of the biggest ships, either side of the River Lea, at Bow Creek.

By 1890, however, the northeast coast of England and shipbuilders in Scotland had become the leading shipbuilders, with their lower overheads, resulting in The Thames Iron Works closing in 1912.

Robin and Rook.

Robert Thomson, a ship broker and owner, ordered both ships constructed on slipways and built by Ditchburn & Mare, in 1845. Ditchburn & Mare was later owned by The Thames Iron Works and Ship Building Company, who then leased the yard to shipwright William Jolly, a Thames barge builder. 

He started construction before selling the business shortly after to Mackenzie, McAlpine and Company. Both builders were inexperienced, ill equipped and struggled to complete the orders to a standard high enough to satisfy Lloyd’s. 

Robert Thompson took over the work himself, eventually, paying a naval architect superintendent to complete the ships on his behalf. The ships were complete to Lloyd’s highest class of 100A1. 

'Robin' and 'Rook' were to be the last ships built at the yard, which closed immediately after.

Following their launch they went to the East India Docks, which were nearby, for final fitting out. 'Robin' was later towed to Dundee where her boiler, triple expansion engine and ancillary machinery were installed, by Gourlay Brothers & Company Limited. 

Although rigged as an auxiliary three-masted schooner she was designed to carry sails, should they be needed. 

SS Robin and Lightship 93, at the Royal Docks.

Maiden Voyage.

Having been sold into the service of Arthur C. Ponsonby & Company of Newport, South Wales, her first voyage was from Liverpool to Bayonne, France, in 1890. Her crew consisted of twelve men.

Her next voyage began in Swansea, in 1891, and saw her visit Rouen, the Mersey, Plymouth, Deauville, Guernsey, London, Rochester, Newport, Bristol, Swansea, Cherbourg, and back again to the Thames. This would be her trading route for the following years, carrying bulk cargoes of china clay, coal, grain, iron ore, railway rail and scrap steel, as well as general cargoes of baled and casked goods. 

Tower Hotel, St Katharine's Way

March 7-8, 2025.

I have walked by this hotel on many occasions and I have seen it in many films and TV series, but I have never been inside.

Today, that changed as Emma and I were booked in for the evening, as part of our wedding anniversary. 

The brutalist concrete style, of the exterior, is not repeated internally. Bright tiles and mirrors bring a modern and contemporary feel. 

Reception was fully staffed, so we didn't have to wait long to be checked in. Padam, who checked us in, assured us that he had given us a great room with an even better view. We would see.

The lift (elevator) was silent, smooth and spacious, with mirrored walls and ceiling and tiled floor, which made it seem even bigger. A small ashtray, built into one of the elevator panels, showed the age of the building.

Arriving on the fifth floor we turned right and then, a bit further on, turned left, finally arriving at 561. Our room was simply decorated and had everything now expected of a hotel: bed, smart TV, kettle, iron, Nespresso machine, air conditioning, desk, wardrobes, underfloor heating, etc.. 

Each item of furniture had a glass top, to protect it from damage. There were switches for various lights and heating and air conditioning.

The bed was comfortable and spacious, with plenty of pillows, too.

As promised, by Padam, the view was stunning and exactly what you would hope for when staying at this hotel.

Our view was directly south, looking down on the River Thames, with Tower Bridge and The Shard to our right. Perfect.

Breakfast, on Saturday morning, had everything on offer. There were cereals, pastries, breads, full English, tea and coffee machines and various juices and iced water. We were fortunate enough to be sat by a window, overlooking St Katharine Docks, rather than in the centre of the room.

As luck would have it, Tower Bridge opened for a maintenance check on Saturday morning, for which we had an excellent view.

Checking out was easy, as we simply handed our wood-effect keys in at reception.

The staff and facilities were excellent and I would definitely stay here again.

Oh, and one last thing... A big "thank you" to my wife for booking the hotel.

'Vitreous Enamel' by Dale Devereux Barker RE

Walking along Cloister's Walk, in St Katharine Docks, you will discover a plethora of bright panels fixed into the arches that separate Cloister's Walk from St Katharine's Way.

There are one hundred and thirty five of these panels, with nine panels per arch.

Some of the designs are repeated, but sometimes with a different colour. However, each tells a story.

Dale Devereux Barker RE was commissioned for this project by Taylor Woodrow Properties, back in 1998. 

Walking with family: London Bridge to St Katharine Docks... and beyond

Sunday September 29, 2024.

With the Metropolitan line completely closed and the London Overground (Lioness line) not going beyond Finsbury Park, uncle Martin, Keilyn and I took the 09:24 fast train from Watford Junction to Euston, then a Northern line, via Bank, to London Bridge.

From here we crossed Tooley Street and took the stairs down to the Contorted Tunnel, which would lead us to Hay's Galleria.

Our first stop was Café Piazza, where we sat and had hot drinks. Vanilla latte, for me, Cappuccino, for Martin and a Hot Chocolate with cream and mini marshmallows for Keilyn.

Suitably refreshed we headed out of Hay's Galleria and headed to HMS Belfast.

With tickets in hand we boarded this historic vessel and begun our exploration. Our first surprise was seeing a German Navy Corvette-class ship, named Magdeburg, moored on her port side.

Across nine decks we clambered, exploring every inch of the ship that was open. The boiler room and one of the gun turrets were closed for maintenance. 

We made our way from the Quarter deck towards the Fo'c'sle, before we headed up the decks sitting in the Admiral's chair, the Captain and Navigating Officer chairs, before reaching the Flag deck.

Then we headed down to visit the Mess decks, Sick bay, the Galley, the Engine room, the Chapel, Operations room, the Lower steering position, Gun turret and everything in-between.

Two and a half hours later we disembarked HMS Belfast and stopped for some lunch from one of the street vendors, that had setup along The Queen's Walk.

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to St Katharine Docks... and beyond

St Katharine Docks and Marina.

Saturday May 25, 2024. 

Another Saturday and another walk through London.

Keilyn and I met up with my friend Steve at Watford Underground station and boarded our train to Baker Street. Arriving at Croxley station we were joined by my mum and uncle Martin.

We alighted at Finchley Road and waited the six minutes for an Aldgate bound train to continue our journey.

Arriving at Aldgate station we headed outside and, after crossing Aldgate High Street, grabbed a coffee from 'Copper Coffee', on the corner of Mansell Street. We then continued along Mansell Street on to St Katharine's Way and our destination of St Katharine Docks.

'Excelsior'.

With the sun in an almost cloudless sky it was the perfect conditions to wander around the Marina with its yachts, barges and other vessels.

Is that a Koi?

Having explored the marina and after spotting what looked like Koi in the clear waters, we made our way to the Docks and the chance to explore the 'Dunkirk Little Ships' that had arrived ahead of the anniversary of 'Operation Dynamo', which took place between May 26 and June 4, 1940.

Dunkirk Little Ships.

These historic ships had been part of an armada that travelled from Ramsgate to Dunkirk to aid in the rescue of over 336,000 British and French soldiers. Many of these boats made multiple trips.

We read the stories of the ships, listened to crew members telling stories and got up close to these historic vessels.

A different perspective.

With noon fast approaching we went our separate ways, with mum and Martin staying around the St Katharine Docks area, while Keilyn, Steve and I crossed Tower Bridge and headed along the Thames Path towards Rotherhithe.

Dunkirk Little Ships at St Katharine Docks and Marina

Dunkirk Little Ships at St Katharine Docks and Marina.

Saturday May 25, 2024.

With the anniversary of the start of 'Operation Dynamo', this weekend, some of the 'Little Ships of Dunkirk' had made their way to St Katharine Docks and Marina, allowing visitors to get up close to these historic vessels.

Some of the historic Dunkirk Little Ships.

It was a beautiful summer morning as we walked around the Docks and Marina, inspecting these small boats that, 84 years ago, had made their way from Ramsgate to Dunkirk to help in the evacuation of more than 338,000 British and French soldiers. 

A 'Dunkirk 1940' commemorative plaque.

Each boat was in pristine condition and each had its own story to tell, with information boards and owners and crew ready and willing to share the stories of the vessels.

Dunkirk Little Ship 'Lady Lou'.

'Lady Lou' is one of four surviving pre-war Ramparts and was built in 1936.

Ornamental Canal, Wapping

Looking along the Ornamental Canal towards The Shard.

Just to the east of St Katherine Docks and Marina you will find Hermitage Basin, a small oasis amid a now residential area. This basin is all that is left of the London Docks, which were filled in for redevelopment in around 1983.

The old walls of the London Docks.

To keep the history of the London Docks alive a canal was designed, that would link Hermitage Basin to Shadwell Basin. This canal was not designed for river traffic and so was built as an ornamental reminder of bygone times.

Not navigable, but full of wildlife. 

The former dock walls were used as features along the Ornamental Canal, which would pass alongside Tobacco Dock, the only warehouses to survive the redevelopment, as it made its way in a north-easterly direction towards Shadwell Basin.

The Tobacco Dock warehouses were built in 1812.

As the canal nears Shadwell Basin it passes beneath Wapping Woods, so the towpath leads you up through this wonderful little park, before rejoining the canal near Shadwell Basin.