Dragon Boundary Marks for the City of London

One of the silver dragons that adorns Holborn Viaduct.

Anyone that has walked into the Square Mile along one of its main thoroughfares, will have passed by one of the fourteen silver dragons that mark the boundary to the City of London. 

The coat of arms of the City of London has two dragons supporting a shield that bears a flag of St George, with a sword in its top left corner. Atop the shield is a knight's helmet and plume, while the motto "Domine dirige nos (Lord guide us)" runs in a ribbon across the bottom. The sword, with its tip pointed upward, symbolises the martyrdom of St Paul, the patron saint of London.

One of the original dragons from the London Coal Exchange.

The City's first silver dragons adorned the London Coal Exchange building, which was situated almost opposite the Old Billingsgate Market. Then, in 1962, the Coal Exchange was demolished due to damage from World War II and the need to widen the road. However, the two 7 feet (2.1 metres) cast iron dragons, that had stood above the entrance on a parapet, were saved. Once they had been cleaned, repaired and painted they were mounted on Portland Stone plinths that are 6 feet (1.8 metres) in height and erected on Victoria Embankment, in October 1963.

Eleven more dragons, which are half-size replicas of these, were then erected at various points around the City of London boundary, during the late 1960s.

St Peter Westcheap Churchyard

St Peter Westcheap was built in the 12th century and was rebuilt in the 16th century, when it was known as 'St Peter's at the Crosse in Cheape', because of the memorial cross erected there by King Edward I, in 1291. The cross was to honour Queen Eleanor and marked one of the twelve places where her body rested on the journey from Nottinghamshire to Westminster Abbey.

It became a holy shrine, adorned with religious carvings, and was consequently removed by the Puritans. Musicians often performed on the leads of the church during processions; and it was here that Queen Elizabeth I, on her procession through the City of London, was presented with a copy of the English translation of the Bible. 

Three Lord Mayors are buried in the churchyard.

The church was not rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1666.

The shop on the corner, backing on to the churchyard, L & R Wooderson, was built just 21 years after the Great Fire.

Today, the churchyard is a pocket park, offering a place of quiet respite, just a stone's throw from St Paul's Cathedral. It is also home to a London Plane tree, said to be "the oldest tree" in the City of London.

Cuneiform Tablet: The oldest object in the City of London

London is home to many ancient and wondrous items, many of which are kept in museums and galleries. But, there are also ancient and historic objects simply dotted around London's many streets and thoroughfares.

The oldest of these objects would have to be the Needle of Thutmose III, which stands on Victoria Embankment. This obelisk dates from around 1450 BC.

Then there are the Roman remains, such as the amphitheatre, the old city walls and bastions, mosaic and the like. These were all created from 45 AD onwards.

However, this curious brown block, on display in St Vedast-alias-Foster Garden, is, I am sure, one of the oldest objects, as it dates from between 858 and 834 BC. 

So, how did it end up in a church courtyard in London?

'Ancient Lights'

It is always important to look up, as well as down, when walking along London's streets, in case you miss something. This is how I discovered these signs, beneath various windows across older parts of the city.

Because I had never seen them before I now keep a look out for them, and other old signs.

But what does the term 'Ancient Lights' mean?

To discover the answer we must travel back to the 12th century, and the beginnings of English Common Law.

Walking with friends: Bethnal Green to Spitalfields... and beyond

Saturday May 24, 2025.

When friends wish to accompany me on a walk, in London, I have to work out a rough route that will take in some sites that will appeal to everyone. As friends all have different backgrounds, interests and are of different ages, this can be a challenge.

However, I am always up for a challenge, so I set about planning a route that would encompass enough places of varied age to visit so that everyone would be satisfied.

I set off on the short walk to Watford Metropolitan station, where I met up with Steve, before boarding a Baker Street-bound train. Gary had made his way to Moor Park station and, with me calling him as we pulled in, joined us for the trip.

Alighting at Finchley Road we waited three minutes for an Aldgate-bound train, which we rode until Liverpool Street, where we took a Central line train the one stop to Bethnal Green.

On exiting the station we headed up Cambridge Heath Road and entered the Young V&A Museum. I had picked this particular place as we had all been children, once, and I knew that we would all see some things from our childhood. Besides, I hadn't been here in almost 8 years, during which time it had undergone a major refurbishment.

Passing through the reception, with its gift shop, we entered the main hall, heading to the first gallery on our left. Tin toys, railway sets, movie merchandise toys and posters, Christopher Reeve's costume from Superman IV: The Quest for Peace, toys from television series and so much more.

Then there was a dimly-lit room full of dolls houses, all lit up with tiny lights from within.

The War Horse puppet, a suit of Samurai armour, models, more toys, giant dolls houses that a child could easily fit inside, books and more.

A stage area allowed children to dress up and act out scenes, while a glass fronted cabinet held Boris Karloff's costume from 'The Bride of Frankenstein', while others contained Kabuki masks and more recent mass-produced masks.

A room, with a black and white floor, with pink walls, created the illusion, if you stood in the right place, of a person shrinking in one corner, while being unable to fully stand in another corner.

The Design Gallery showed how things were designed and manufactured, while another gallery showcased board games, cards and gaming consoles.

We explored the entire building and its exhibits, before making our way outside, after making a donation to the museum.

From here we continued up Cambridge Heath Road, before turning west down Hackney Road. As is common for this area of London, many old houses are sandwiched between new builds, while 'ghost signs' still advertise products and companies that no longer exist.  We continued heading west, before turning south, on Horatio Street, which brought us to Ezra Street. Ezra Street, and nearby Barnet Grove, are wonderfully preserved Georgian streets, some of which were used in the 1990 movie 'The Krays', standing in for Vallance Road, where the Krays childhood home was.

At the corner of Ezra Street and Columbia Road stands the Royal Oak, which, fortuitously, was open. So, in we went. It is a wonderful pub, full of history and retains much of its 1923 upgrades. Because  of its location and style, the Royal Oak has been used in numerous television series, like 'Goodnight Sweetheart' (1993-1999), and films such as 'The Krays' (1990), 'Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels' (1998) and 'Legend' (2015).

Suitably refreshed we left this wonderful pub and headed along Columbia Road and turned down Barnet Grove, until we reached Bethnal Green Road. Feeling peckish we stopped for some lunch, which was filling, before continuing along Bethnal Green Road, stopping to stare at the phenomenally long queue outside 'E. Pellicci's'. 'E. Pellicci's' was where Ronnie and Reggie Kray ate breakfast, nearly everyday, and has become even more popular with tourists.

Turning around we crossed Bethnal Green Road and spotted the 'Marquis of Cornwallis' pub, so we went in for some refreshments. What a contrast it was. Its outside appearance looked rundown, with paint flaking from the walls and the lettering on the name almost completely vanished. Yet, inside, it was modern, with panelled wood and countless televisions showing different sports.

On leaving the 'Marquis of Cornwallis' we headed south along Vallance Road, passing Weavers Fields, stopping to take a photo of the buildings that now occupy the place where Ronnie and Reggie Kray had their childhood home.

From here we headed along Dunbridge Street and saw the Bethnal Green Bath House and, to its left, Repton Boxing Club, where the Kray brothers used to box. Dunbridge Street brought us to Cheshire Street and the next stop on our journey; 'The Carpenter's Arms'. 

This pub, built in 1871, is a wonderful little place. The small bar leads through to a small seating area and then into a small outside seating area. The walls are covered in framed photos of London Transport photos and maps, Repton Boxing Club, Truman Brewery photos and advertisements and more. Other framed black and white photos show some of the regulars enjoying drinks and having parties. Then there is a photo of Ronnie and Reggie. This pub was purchased by them, in 1967, as a gift to their mother, Violet. It was from offices upstairs that business meetings took place. It was also here, on October 29, 1967, that Reggie Kray had a drink to calm his nerves, before heading off to murder Jack 'The Hat' McVitie.

Once we had finished our drinks we continued along Cheshire Street and then turned south, down Brick Lane, passing the Truman Brewery and then Hanbury Street, where Annie Chapman was murdered by Jack the Ripper. Eventually we reached Fashion Street with its Moorish style market building that, when it opened, was a financial disaster. Some of the space was taken over by G Scammell and Nephew, who were wheelwrights. It was here that Scammell Lorries had their beginning. 

Cheapside Plane: Possibly the Oldest Tree in the City of London

Walking through the Square Mile there are plenty of green spaces, filled with plants, shrubs and trees, which bring nature to this hub of London life. One tree in particular, though, stands out. 

On Wood Street, Cheapside, stands a 70 foot London Plane (Platanus × acerifolia), on a small plot of land surrounded on three sides by buildings. So how old is it and how has it survived fire, redevelopment and war?

Research shows that this tree has stood for over 275 years, although it could be much older. Regardless, this still makes it, quite possibly, the oldest tree in the City of London.

The tree stands on a small plot that was once part of St Peter Cheap, one of the churches that did not survive the Great Fire of 1666. 

St Vedast-alias-Foster Public Garden and its Treasures, City of London

In the shadow of St Paul's Cathedral and hidden along a small passageway, from Foster Lane, is this wonderful public garden, that holds some intriguing and historic items.

The garden is built on what was once a graveyard belonging to St Vedast-alias-Foster, a church that was founded in around 1170. 

The church has been restored many times and rebuilt at least twice, the last by Sir Christopher Wren following the Great Fire of 1666.

The church was completely gutted during The Blitz, with its restoration being undertaken by Canon Charles Bernard Mortlock, Poet Laureate John Betjeman, Noel Mander a master organ builder and architect Stephen Dykes Bower.

An adjacent plot to the north, formerly the location of the Fountain Pub, was purchased and used for the construction of a new Rectory. On land between this new Rectory and what is now the parish hall of St Vedast a small secluded courtyard was built.

Passing through these blue doors and up the three small stone steps you will find yourself in a small courtyard, with a tree as a centrepiece, various plants and plaques. The white walls in contrast with the brick walls and the covered walkway gives this small courtyard an almost Mediterranean feel. 

But there are secrets to be discovered here: Roman tiles, sculptures and a 3,000 year old brick, from Iraq.

On the south wall you will find the remains of a Roman pavement, discovered 18 feet below the floor of the church of St Matthew, Friday Street, which was demolished in 1886.

There is a small sculpture of Canon Charles Bernard Mortlock, entitled 'Head', by Jacob Epstein.

Elsyng Spital Church Tower, City of London

Elsyng Spital Church Tower.

The City of London is full of churches. Some are still in use, while others are ruins. Some of these ruins have been turned into pocket gardens, where people can go to escape the bustle of the city. Others, like Elsyng Spital Church Tower, have been left as they are.

I like that places like this have been left, rather than bulldozed, now standing alongside the new office blocks which, no doubt, won't last as long.

This is all that remains of the tower of the church of the medieval hospital of Elsyng Spital. 

 

The entrance to the church was through the archway on the right.

 

Smithfield Market: V-2 Rocket attack memorial

On Thursday March 8, 1945, at 11:30, a V-2 Rocket struck the Harts Corner part of Smithfield Market, on the corner of Charterhouse Street and Farringdon Road.

The rocket went through the Victorian market and penetrated the railway tunnels below, causing the market buildings to fall into the resulting crater, along with many of the workers and visitors to the market.

The market had been extra busy, that morning, as many women and children had been queueing in the hopes of obtaining a rabbit, from a consignment that had just gone on sale.

In total 110 people died, while countless others were seriously injured.

This attack happened just weeks before the last V-2 fell on London.

Harts Corner was originally a market for fruit and vegetables, then fish and then a part of the meat market. It had been designed by Sir Horace Jones, but was impossible to salvage after the rocket struck.

'Ring of Steel', City of London

A City of London police sentry box.

Walking through and around the City of London you may notice that roads, entering the City, narrow and concrete islands have, usually empty, Police sentry boxes on them. 

These sentry boxes are a remnant of far more dangerous times. They were put in place, along with narrower roads and CCTV cameras, as a response to the IRA threats to the City of London from the 1970s through to the 1990s. This initiative became known as the 'Ring of Steel'.

But, this wasn't the City of London's first form of protective security. For that we must go back to the founding of Londinium. 

The City of London's original defensive ring.

The Romans constructed a wall, many parts of which are still visible, to protect early Londinium from invasion from the Picts, who had invaded northern Britain and overrun Hadrian's Wall. 

To further protect Londinium the Roman's increased fortifications along the wall, as well as increasing the wall's height.

Various Wards were also created within the City walls, ensuring that communities were linked and security could be maintained. These community links are still as important today for keeping the City of London safe.

Terrorism became an issue for the City of London, and London as a whole, when Irish Republicans began a bombing campaign between 1867 and 1885. This was followed by Militant Suffragette actions, along with Anarchist attacks.

The Irish Republican Army started a limited campaign between 1939 and 1940, which became known as the 'Sabotage Campaign',

The most deadly attacks began in 1973 and would continue until 1997, when the Provisional Irish Republican Army began a sustained campaign during what was called 'The Troubles'. This was further exacerbated by attacks related to Middle East politics and more Anarchist attacks.

The City of London's 'Ring of Steel'.

It was during the 1990s that a new 'Ring of Steel' was put in place. This involved the narrowing of roads and the adding of small chicanes, which forced drivers to slow down. Concrete medians were also installed, each with a police sentry box manned by armed police. Some roads were closed to traffic altogether.

CCTV cameras recorded vehicles entering, and leaving, the City of London. One of the measures, now used throughout the world, was Automatic Number-Plate Recognition (ANPR) which was developed in the City of London. Today, the whole of London has traffic monitoring systems which are constantly viewed by police. This data is kept for five years.

Some dissident members of the Real Irish Republican Army and Islamic terrorists have continued to attack locations within the City of London, London and the UK, up to the present day.

Keilyn in a police sentry box.

As new threats are detected new technology evolves. Cameras are moved, upgraded or more are installed. As the City of London changes, with roads rerouted, new businesses moving in or new infrastructure being constructed the 'Ring of Steel' adapts, doing its best to keep us safe.

Stave Hill Viewpoint, Southwark

Looking towards the City of London.

It was while on a recent trip to Rotherhithe that I finally visited Stave Hill viewpoint, and it was not a disappointment.

Approaching Stave Hill Viewpoint.

Set in the Stave Hill Ecological Park this artificial hill stands stands 9 metres (29.5 feet) in height and offers incredible 360 degree views out across London. There are sixty concrete steps that need to be climbed, but it is definitely worth the climb. There is a handrail either side, to assist those less able.

The 60 Steps.

Obviously, the closest buildings to see are the ever increasing amount of buildings at nearby Canary Wharf, but there is more to see: Nine Elms, the BT Tower, Nine Elms, the City of London and all points in between. 

Gunpowder Square Cannon, City of London

A King George III cannon.

On one of many walks, through the City of London, I was travelling along Fleet Street and looking at the countless alleys and side streets that lead to various courtyards, buildings and, sometimes, nowhere, just being shortcuts to another road or street.

It was as I walked up Wine Office Court, passing Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, that I discovered this little cannon stood on a plinth. The plaque, transcribed below, didn't give much away, but it was still something new to discover.

Opened on

29th November 1989

by

Sir Hugh Bidwell GBE

Lord Mayor of London

After reaching home I tried to do some research, but all to no avail. I can find nothing to say why the square (although it's not a square, rather an open space with a path) was named 'Gunpowder Square', nor who had the idea of placing a cannon that is over two-hundred years old, here.

If any of my readers know any more information about this little cannon, or how the area came to be called Gunpowder Square, please get in touch.

'Ye Olde Mitre'

Ye Olde Mitre.

London is full of narrow, winding alleyways that link various streets and roads together. Some are short passages, while others meander and twist. The majority, however, hide nothing of real interest. 

But, I had heard of one alley, near Hatton Garden, that has a historic public house nestled midway down its length. So I set about locating it. 

As this public house is located within the City of London it is only open on weekdays, so I made a point of heading to the area on a Monday morning.

Walking along Holborn I crossed Hatton Garden, which I could have taken as this has an alley leading to the pub, and turned on to Charterhouse Street. After a few more steps I turned on to Ely Place and began looking for the alley.

It didn't take long before I peered along a narrow alley which was bisected vertically with an iron bar, obviously put in place to stop cyclists taking a shortcut, and soon found myself in the small courtyard of Ye Olde Mitre. 

A small, but cosy, courtyard.

This courtyard, although narrow, had old upturned barrels on which patrons could rest their drinks, while flower baskets hung from walls. A brass and glass lamp hung from the exterior, of the pub, which looked as though it offered plenty of illumination in the evenings.

Bank of England Museum Late: The Christmas Special, 2023

A solid gold bar.

Thursday December 21, 2023.

It was a remarkably mild evening as Emma, Erin, Keilyn and I made our way from Watford to London, for the evening. Our plan had been to catch a fast train from Watford Junction to Euston, but problems with the overhead power cables saw us take the London Overground, instead. We changed to the Northern line, at Euston, and continued on to Bank station. This route put an extra twenty minutes-or-so on our journey, but we still made it in plenty of time.

Our reason for travelling to London, late on a Thursday afternoon... to see the Bank of England Museum and, hopefully, receive a bauble filled with shredded bank notes. The queue was already at the corner of Threadneedle Street and Princes Street, so that's where we joined it. The time was just after 16:30.

We have joined the queue.

We chatted to other people in the queue, plus those who stopped to ask what we were all queuing for, as we passed the time. Slowly, very slowly, the train of people began to move as 17:00 arrived and the doors to the museum opened. All the while Erin was keeping her eyes peeled, in case she spotted the ghost of Sarah Whitehead, who is said to haunt Threadneedle Street. We saw no sign of her.

Keilyn standing in an alcove, outside the Bank of England.

However, due to the capacity of the museum, only small groups were able to enter at a time. 

By now the queue behind us had travelled the length of Threadneedle Street and up Princes Street, around onto Lothbury and then across the road to Throgmorton Street. One of the museum staff had estimated that there were nearly 2,000 people in the queue, at one point.

'Collector' by Georgie Fay

'Collector' by Georgie Fay.

Tuesday November 28, 2023.

It was a particularly chilly Tuesday morning as I made my around Bunhill Fields Burial Ground, during my walk from Angel to the City of London then up to Euston. The sun, bright in the morning sky, did nothing to dispel the chill that permeated this enclosed park and burial ground, which I had last visited back in 2018, during another walk, and had long since wanted to revisit the place.

Since my previous visit a new public artwork had been installed, consisting of a metal ring, suspended by ropes from three trees, from which hung sails of original printed art.

Hanging like Tombstones.

With the sun still low in the sky it cast just the right amount of light, dispersed by the surrounding trees, to highlight these unique printed sails.

With no breeze to disturb the piece it seemed to hang like painted tombstones.

St Alban Tower

St Alban Tower, Wood Street.

Wandering around the City of London, as I do, I often find some intriguing pieces of history or fascinating architecture that I was previously unaware of.

This is how I came to discover the church of St Alban, Wood Street, in the City of London.

The North face of the Tower.

As I approached the church, however, I discovered that the tower is all that remains, and it is now become a traffic island. More than that... it is now a private home.

Church of St Bartholomew-the-Less

The entrance to the church of St Bartholomew-the-Less.

Having recently visited the Priory Church of St Bartholomew-the-Great I thought that I should make a visit to the smaller church, set within the grounds of St Bartholomew's Hospital, St Bartholomew-the-Less.

As I expected from the name this church is definitely smaller, but it still has a long and fascinating history.

Definitely the Lesser of the two churches to St Bartholomew.

Considering the darkness that seems to have taken a hold of the interior of St Bartholomew-the Great, it was nice to enter a bright church, which seemed, at least to me, to be much more modern.

However, as it turns out, the Less is only a few years younger than the Great, having been established in around 1184.

I was thankful that it was still early in the day, so that I had the chance to explore the church without interruption. 

Inside the church of St Bartholomew-the-Less.

After a good look around and after taking plenty of photographs I made my way out into the hospital grounds. Well, since I was there and I do work in a hospital myself it only seemed the right thing to do.

'The Blackfriar'

The Blackfriar public house.

On the odd occasion that I fancy a drink, when walking around London, I never stop at one of those pubs that has no character, preferring to find a pub with a bit of history.

So it was while walking westward along the River Thames that I spotted this odd shaped building, across the road from Blackfriars station. 

The wedge shaped Blackfriar pub.

As I approached I realised that it was a pub and, so, headed in. And what a place it is.

Some of the bronze relief around the top of the bar.

The pub is remarkably deceptive as, when viewed from the outside, it looks long and narrow, but, once inside, the pub opens up with a substantial bar area, for a pub this small, that contains booths, tables and areas to just stand. 

Scenes from the life of a monk.

A dining area, set under the adjoining railway arch, which I didn't visit on this occasion, is furnished with sculptures.

A day in the life of a monk.

Around the tops of the walls bronze reliefs showed Dominican Friars going about there daily tasks, while a stained glass window allowed a rainbow of light to filter into the room.

Stained Glass Window.

There was obviously some serious history to this pub, so I bought a pint of ale and sat outside at one of the tables.