Aldgate Pump

At the corner of Leadenhall Street and Fenchurch Street, where the two streets join to form Aldgate High Street, you will find a stone obelisk with a lantern mounted to its top.

It is no ordinary obelisk, but is in fact the Aldgate Pump, a historic landmark point that marks the beginning of the East End and was mentioned by Charles Dickens, as well as being sung about in traditional rhymes and songs.

It was originally situated further west, on the site of what was to become Fenchurch Street station.

The freshwater well was fed from one of London's many underground rivers, beginning its journey in Hampstead, to the north, and had been used since the 13th century. The water was said to be "bright, sparkling and cool and of a pleasant flavour".

However, it was later discovered that the water was contaminated. The decaying organic matter and calcium from the bones of dead Londoners, in the nearby cemeteries, had begun to leach into the underground rivers and streams.

So, in 1876, when the Aldgate Pump was moved to its new location, it was connected to the mains water supply.

This current pump is made of Portland stone, and dates from the 18th century, while the brass wolf's head spout is 19th century. The lantern, at the top of the obelisk, is a handmade replica of the original, which was lost in 1900.

In 2019 the City of London Corporation, with the assistance of the Heritage of London Trust, repaired and restored the pump. Some of the money came from Miss Anthea Gray, who had left a generous gift in her Will, to the Heritage of London Trust.

Skateboard Graveyard, Golden Jubilee Bridges

If you look down on the northeastern support of the Hungerford Bridge and Jubilee Bridges, across the River Thames, you will see the scattered remnants of broken skateboards. 

This is not just some random littering spot, but rather a memorial to a fallen skateboarder. 

Friday June 18, 1999.

Timothy Baxter and his friend, Gabriel Cornish, had spent the midsummer day skating over and around the concrete obstacles of the Undercroft, beneath Queen Elizabeth Hall.

In the evening they went for drinks, much like everybody else, and enjoyed the summer evening. As they headed home, a little after 04:00, via the Golden Jubilee Bridges, they were confronted by six strangers; three teenagers and three young adults; five male and one female.

The strangers took Timothy's rucksack and threw it into the cold water of the River Thames, before beating on Timothy and Gabriel. The last thing Gabriel heard, before passing out, was, "Let's throw them in the river. It will be fun."

The world's longest continually-used skate spot.

Gabriel survived, by using his rucksack to stay afloat, and was rescued two miles downstream with hypothermia. Timothy never regained consciousness and his body was recovered 36 hours later.

The six individuals were caught and charged with murder and attempted murder. In April 2000, following a ten-week trial, they were all found guilty and were sentenced to life imprisonment, in May 2000.

2024: A Year in Review

Looking back at my travels, throughout 2024, I visited some historic places, iconic landmarks, museums and some interesting, unique and quirky places.

From Battersea to Woolwich and Highgate to Elephant and Castle, plus many points in-between, I, often with family and friends, walked a distance of over 140 miles and travelled over 700 miles, via London Underground. Plus, there were the buses, cable car, Overground and National Rail, which add more to the total.

Below I have listed some of these walks, although there were many others.

The year began with a walk from North Greenwich to Canada Water, taking the Thames Path for much of the route. Sculptures and historic buildings lined our way, with a lunch break at Greenwich Market and a drink at 'The Victoria', Deptford.

In February some friends and I walked from King's Cross to Wapping and back to Aldgate. We visited 'The Blind Beggar', where we met Vas Blackwood, before heading through Shadwell to 'Turner's Old Star', before heading through Wapping to 'The Prospect of Whitby'. We then made our way back, via St Katharine Docks, to Aldgate.

Erin joined me for my next trip, where we visited 'The Wallace Collection', at Hertford House, before having lunch at a 'Wok to Walk' and then visiting 'Liberty' and taking a meandering walk to Great Portland Street, via the BT Tower.

Late February saw Keilyn and I heading to Stratford to visit 'The Cart and Horses', birthplace of Iron Maiden, before we headed back to the City of London, visiting the 'Bank of England Museum'. Torrential rain cut our walk short, but it was still a great day out.

My mum and I took a trip to Canary Wharf and the 'Theatreship', in March, to hear Niki Gorick give a talk on her latest book, 'Dock Life Renewed'. Not much of a walk, but a fascinating evening.

With Spring truly here, my next walk, with Steve, was from the Light Tunnel, at King's Cross, to Baker Street, along the Regent's Canal, with lunch at Canopy Market and a drink at 'Camden Lock Dingwalls Pub'. A wonderful tranquil walk.

April saw Erin, Keilyn and I take Gary and his son, Alfie, to 'Mudchute Park and Farm', for Alfie's first trip to London. After the park we walked south to Island Gardens, before continuing along the River Thames and back to Canary Wharf.

Keilyn and I visited Gunnersbury Park and Museum, where we explored the mansion, once owned by the Rothschild family, and visited the exhibitions, before exploring the grounds.

Late April saw Keilyn and I visit the Brunel Museum, before heading along the Thames Path and visiting Stave Hill Viewpoint, before walking to Canada Water. From here we walked to Rotherhithe Station, where we travelled through the Thames Tunnel, built by Brunel, Wapping. From here we walked to HM Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, stopped for lunch, and then continued our walk to Barbican.

Our next walk saw Keilyn and I joined by my mum, uncle Martin and our friend Steve. We visited St Katharine Docks to see the Dunkirk Little Ships, before Keilyn, Steve and I headed off to the south bank for lunch at 'The Salt Quay'. We returned to Tower Bridge in time to see it open, to allow a barge to pass through, before rejoining my mum and uncle Martin.

Keilyn and I started our next walk from Marylebone station, heading towards Paddington. We saw 'Real Time' by Maarten Baas, before moving on to Leinster Gardens and the fake houses. From here we headed into Kensington Gardens and on to Kensington High Street. We visited Gnome Land, the Tower House and Gnome Land and ate our lunch in Holland Park, before heading to Green Park via Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park.

Severndroog Castle was the next starting point, for Keilyn and I, on a glorious Sunday in July. The folly offers unique views across London and its surrounding counties. From here we walked to St George's Garrison Church, before we stopped for lunch in Woolwich. We then took the Woolwich Free Ferry to the north bank, before continuing our walk to the Royal Docks, where we caught the Cable Car to North Greenwich.

Brent Lodge Park was the next visit, and starting point, for Keilyn and I. Hanwell Zoo is a great children's zoo, which we visited after first exploring the MillenniuM Maze. From here we walked through Brent Lodge Park, and The Hobbayne, before arriving at Hanwell station. A short trip, on the Elizabeth line, took us to Tottenham Court Road, where we continued walking, eventually arriving at Baker Street station.

August saw Emma, Erin, Keilyn and I, stay at Premier Inn Archway for one night, so that we could explore the area, using the hotel as a base. Kenwood House, Archway, Hampstead Heath and Highgate Cemetery were all explored, during our stay.

A rare solo trip saw me walk from Elephant and Castle to Borough, where I saw old World War II ARP Stretchers used as railings, saw the last surviving part of Marshalsea Prison and visited 'The Southwark Tavern'. An old Tram Shelter, with a new lease of life, was next, before heading for the south bank, where I saw William Blake's Mosaics beneath a bridge, before continuing to Waterloo.

Victoria Park Cemetery: Meath Gardens

Headstones.

Victoria Park Cemetery opened in 1845 and was the last of the eight private garden cemeteries to open.

The cemetery was unconsecrated and, when it opened, had two chapels, designed by the architect Arthur Ashpitel, 

The great Gothic archway.

The great Gothic archway, restored in 2017, still stands at one of the entrances emblazoned with 'VPC 1845'.

During its short existence over 300,000 bodies were interred here, with three-quarters of them being children.

Although well-managed initially, it was a poor financial venture and became insolvent in 1853, leading to its closure in 1876.

Headstones.

Following its closure the monuments were cleared... But, the bodies were never removed.

London's 'Magnificent Seven' Cemeteries. But, originally, there were eight

During the 1830s and 1840s eight private cemeteries were created in an attempt to solve the problem of overcrowding in Victorian London's churchyards. 

This was brought about by a number of factors that included the rapidly increasing rates in birth and mortality and a migration of people from rural areas to the city, due, in part, to the Industrial Revolution.

In 1831 London suffered a cholera epidemic and public health became a major issue. It was believed that poisonous vapours from decomposing bodies was a factor in the outbreak of both cholera and typhoid.

As churchyards became full graves were dug at a depth of just 3 feet (1 metre) and, within a few months, were used again. 

'Resurrection Men' were another problem. These Resurrectionists would raid cemeteries in order to snatch a body, which would then be sold to hospitals for medical students to dissect. These body snatchers would select a grave and then dig a hole at the head end. They then broke the coffin and, using a rope, dragged out the body, thus not having to do a full excavation. They were also careful not to take any jewellery or clothes, as this would result in more serious charges, punishable by transportation to the colonies. Bodies belonged to no one, so their removal was a far less serious charge. 

Such was the proliferation of 'body snatching' that Watch Houses were built, besides graveyards, and were manned by armed watchmen.

In 1832 an Act was passed by Parliament that encouraged the construction of private cemeteries outside central London.

Between 1833 and 1845 eight garden cemeteries were established, four of which were consecrated by the Bishop of London, Charles James Blomfield.

According to census records London's population was one million, in 1801, but had doubled to two million by 1841. At this point London had a death rate of over 45,000 people a year, or 125 people a day.

In 1981 Hugh Meller, an architectural historian, dubbed the surviving group of cemeteries 'The Magnificent Seven', after the movie of the same name.

Each of these cemeteries is unique, making them all worthy of a visit.

Kensal Green Cemetery (General Cemetery of All Souls)

Opened 1833, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, and founded by George Frederick Carden, a barrister. 

The main buildings were designed in the Greek Revival style, by John Griffith, and it originally covered an area of 54 acres, which was later increased to 72 acres.

It is still in operation.

Kensal Green

West Norwood Cemetery (South Metropolitan Cemetery)

Opened 1837, in the London Borough of Lambeth.

The main buildings were designed in the Gothic style, by Sir William Tite and covers an area of 40 acres.

In 1966 it was purchased by Lambeth Council who run it with the Diocese of Southwark.

It is still in operation, partially.

West Norwood

Highgate Cemetery

Opened 1839 (west) 1860 (east), in the London Borough of Camden.

Architect Stephen Geary chose this site for its views over London, which had once been the grounds of Ashurst House but now had St Michael's Church built on it in 1832.

Stephen Geary was assisted by David Ramsay, a nurseryman, in making Highgate the most beautiful and popular cemetery of its time.

It is still in operation.

Highgate

Abney Park Cemetery

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Hackney.

Situated in the grounds of Abney House, once home to Isaac Watts, this cemetery was left unconsecrated, making it a popular burial ground for Dissenters, especially after Bunhill Fields closed to burials.

The chapel was the first non-denominational cemetery chapel in Europe.

In 1979 the London Borough of Hackney took ownership of the site.

It is still in operation.

Abney Park

Brompton Cemetery (West of London and Westminster Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea.

Stephen Geary was the original architect, but he was replaced by Benjamin Baud who designed a more formal layout, including the central avenue and domed chapel.

It is the only Crown Cemetery and is managed by The Royal Parks.

It is still in operation.

Brompton

Nunhead Cemetery (All Saints' Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Southwark.

Built on a hill, with views over London, it was designed by architect James Bunstone Bunning, who had replaced Stephen Geary.

In 1976 it was purchased after it was allowed to fall into neglect by its owners United Cemeteries Limited, who were looking to build on some of the land.

It is still in operation.

Nunhead

Tower Hamlets Cemetery (City of London and Tower Hamlets Cemetery) (Bow Cemetery)

Opened 1841 (closed in 1966), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

Many of the burials here were made in common graves. In 1966 it closed, when the Greater London Council bought it, with the intention of turning it into a park. Many of the monuments and trees were removed, but, following a public outcry, it became a nature reserves and urban woodland.

It is no longer in operation.

Tower Hamlets

Victoria Park Cemetery

Opened in 1845 (closed in 1876), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

This was the last of the eight garden cemeteries, but was the first to close.

Following its closure the monuments were cleared and it was turned into a public park, opening in 1894.

It is now called Meath Gardens, with only its original archway, inscribed with 'VPC', giving any hint to its original purpose. I wonder how many people use this park, without realising what lies beneath?

Meath Gardens

London Necropolis Railway

 

London Necropolis Railway Station

Wandering around the south of the River Thames, near Waterloo Station, you are surrounded by some fantastic architecture. 

This building which, to me, looked like an old fire station is actually the entrance to the London Necropolis Railway.