The Surrey Chapel and The Ring

On the northern corner of Blackfriars Road and Union Street stood the Surrey Chapel, built in 1783. It then took on a completely different persona.

The Surrey Chapel was one of the first octagonal churches, in England, and was constructed in 1783, by Reverend Rowland Hill. The chapel had innovative features that included gas lighting, underfloor heating and an organ that used thunder and lightning effects, He chose the octagonal design so that the Devil would not be able to lurk in the corners.

Able to hold 1,200 people, the eccentric Reverend Hill preached here for nearly fifty years, usually to a full congregation, from his pulpit that was situated in the centre of the chapel.

In 1881 the chapel closed and, by 1910, was converted into a boxing arena, by Dick Burge, who was a former British lightweight champion between 1891-1897, and his wife Bella. They replaced the pulpit with a raised, roped-in enclosure, with a circular stage surrounded by seats for spectators.

Dick Burge renamed the building 'The Ring', which stems from early literal ground-drawn fight circles used in the early bare-knuckle boxing days under London Prize Ring Rules.

It would become the first indoor boxing ring for the working classes and would go on to become one of the most popular boxing venues, in London, famous as a proving ground for boxing talent, where well-known prize-fighters took on apprentice fighters. 

'Turner's Old Star', Wapping

A proper East End pub.

On the corner of Watts Street and Meeting House Alley, opposite the southwest corner of Wapping Green, is a wonderful pub with a lot of history.

'Turner's Old Star' is one of those backstreet pubs that are often overlooked, except by those who live locally. Just a five minute walk from the more prominent touristy pubs, such as the 'Town of Ramsgate' and the 'Captain Kidd', this is a wonderful place to visit and relax.

The pub offers big screen TVs, for those who like to watch their sports, a dartboard and pool table, for those who prefer to participate, and a large pub garden, partly covered, where another screen can be found.

Besides various pieces of memorabilia, there is also a Yeoman Warders 'Blue Undress' uniform, within the pub, protected by glass. This was a gift to the pub from a pub regular who was either a Yeoman Warder or had recently retired from that service. 

It is definitely one of those old fashioned East End boozers that are sadly disappearing, which is a great shame.

The interior of the pub.

Brief history.

In 1685, Lydia Rogers, the wife of carpenter John Rogers, was a member of a radical religious sect called the 'Anabaptists'. She was accused of making a 'blood pact' with the devil, who was said to have cut a vein in her right hand to obtain the blood to use as ink for the contract. 

The local minister spent time praying with her as she confessed her sin.

'The Southwark Tavern'

The Southwark Tavern, on Southwark Street, is a wonderful pub situated on a corner opposite the busy Borough Market.

Its caramel-coloured tiles and leaded windows give the building an appealing look, especially in this area on the south bank.

Inside, the pub is not overly lit, which, along with its dark wood panelling, harkens back to days of old.

There is a large bar offering a wide selection of drinks, while meals can be ordered to be eaten at the various tables. 

Walking with friends: King's Cross to Whitechapel... and beyond

A circular Tube Map, advertising Google's new 'circle to search' feature, at King's Cross station.

Saturday February 3, 2024.

Originally our plan had been to walk westward from London Bridge towards Vauxhall, as this was a route that we had only partially completed before. However, with a few train strikes and some engineering works being carried out, we decided on a completely different route.

Len made his way from Kings Langley to meet me and we caught the Metropolitan line to King's Cross, where we waited for Gary, who was travelling down from Peterborough. Len and I had a coffee, while we awaited Gary's train. Once Gary had arrived, at around 10:40, we decided to head east, along Pentonville Road to City Road and then onto Commercial Street.

Trains covered in graffiti, Shoreditch.

On the way we passed through Shoreditch and saw lots of graffiti covered trains and buildings. 

With the time getting on for 11:30ish, we headed along Whitechapel Road in search of a bite to eat. A small restaurant, which was reasonably priced, provided sustenance and, suitably full, we continued ever eastward.

The Blind Beggar.

Our first port-of-call was 'The Blind Beggar'. Gary had never visited this infamous pub, so he was pleased to enter. While we sat and chatted the actor Vas Blackwood entered, as he uses the pub as a starting point of his walking tours around the East End. Gary decided to go and have a chat with him, buying a signed photo and getting a selfie with him.

I think that sometime very soon I shall book myself on to one of Vas Blackwood's Walking Tours, as they are meant to be really informative and entertaining.

Gary with the actor Vas Blackwood.

Suitably refreshed we left the pub and headed south, through Shadwell towards Wapping, as there was a pub that I thought they might like to visit.

'The Blackfriar', City of London

The Blackfriar public house.

On the odd occasion that I fancy a drink, when walking around London, I never stop at one of those pubs that has no character, preferring to find a pub with a bit of history.

So it was while walking westward along the River Thames that I spotted this odd shaped building, across the road from Blackfriars station. 

The wedge shaped Blackfriar pub.

As I approached I realised that it was a pub and, so, headed in. And what a place it is.

Some of the bronze relief around the top of the bar.

The pub is remarkably deceptive as, when viewed from the outside, it looks long and narrow, but, once inside, the pub opens up with a substantial bar area, for a pub this small, that contains booths, tables and areas to just stand. 

Scenes from the life of a monk.

A dining area, set under the adjoining railway arch, which I didn't visit on this occasion, is furnished with sculptures.

A day in the life of a monk.

Around the tops of the walls bronze reliefs showed Dominican Friars going about their daily tasks, while a stained-glass window allowed a rainbow of light to filter into the room.

Stained Glass Window.

There was obviously some serious history to this pub, so I bought a pint of ale and sat outside at one of the tables. 

'The Blacksmiths Arms'

The Blacksmiths Arms, Rotherhithe.

Saturday September 10, 2022.

Wandering, as I do, around the streets of London I invariably stumble across a fair few pubs. Many of these I pass by, unless something about it catches my eye. This is what happened when I was walking through Rotherhithe and came across The Blacksmiths Arms.

Beautifully decked out with colourful hanging baskets and potted flowers, I decided to venture inside. Besides, I was thirsty.

And what a wonderful pub it is. Walking inside is like stepping back in time as it still maintains some original fittings and looks every bit the 200+ year old pub.

With its horseshoe bar, dining room at the back, comfortable armchairs and sofas and bar stools, it is a really relaxing place to take a break. There are, also, tables and chairs out front, where you can sit in the fresh air.

There is also a function room that can be hired out for private events.

Isle of Thanet plaque.

The walls are full of photographs, paintings and various pieces of history, concerning the pub and the surrounding area, so there is a lot to peruse as you wait for a meal or sip your drink.

One photo showed Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, sipping a drink at the bar, so I had to do the same.

Me standing where Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother once stood.

The staff were friendly and there were a great selection of ales, lagers and spirits that would appeal to everyone.

This is definitely a place that I would revisit, should I find myself walking through Rotherhithe, again.

'The Ferry House'

The Ferry House

Monday May 16, 2022

For the second time in a matter of weeks I found myself back on the Isle of Dogs and back inside The Ferry House pub. This historic pub has been continuously occupied since 1722 and is the oldest on the island and sits on the corner of Ferry Street, from where the ferry to Greenwich departed from the slipway opposite.

Looking out onto the decking and beer garden.

Inside the pub is tastefully decorated and the two bars - saloon and public - that were norm until fairly recently, have been turned into just a single bar. Small rooms with comfy sofas and a large garden make this pub a wonderful place to stop for refreshments.

Walking with friends: Borough Market to the Isle of Dogs... and beyond

With Covid-19 and the various lockdowns putting a pause on my walks with friends, around The Unfinished City, it is great to be able to start them up again.

Saturday April 2, 2022

After a breakfast of Pulled Pork Burger with apple sauce and sage & onion stuffing, from Hobbs in Borough Market, my friend Stephen and I began our first walk of 2022.

Borough Market is a food lovers paradise.

Heading towards the River Thames we made our way through the Contorted Tunnel, which Stephen had never seen, to the basement of Hay's Galleria. Climbing the stairs we headed out on to the embankment, by HMS Belfast, and followed the path to Tower Bridge. 

Tower Bridge and the Girl with a Dolphin.

Taking the eastern pedestrian path, across the bridge, we headed to St Katharine Docks Marina, where various yachts, barges, lifeboats and the Queen's Rowbarge 'Gloriana' were moored. As we rounded one of the buildings I pointed out Stanley Kubrick's original 'Monolith' from 2001: A Space Odyssey, which had been affixed to the wall of one of the buildings, back in 1977.

'Monolith' by Arthur Fleischmann.

From here we headed eastward towards Hermitage Basin and the Ornamental Canal, through Wapping Woods and on to Shadwell Basin. A small area of the basin was being used by Wapping Docklands Market, so we had a look around the different food stalls before heading in to the historic The Prospect of Whitby, for a well-deserved drink.

Our first drink in London together for a number of years.

'Wellington Hotel', Waterloo

The perfect place for an overnight stay.

Thursday October 31-November 1, 2019.

Since it was half-term and we had a few things planned (London Ghost Bus Tour, British Museum), we thought it wold be simpler to stay in London, overnight, rather than travelling  back and forth to Watford.

Usually we stay at Premier Inn, but, on this occasion, we decided on somewhere different. We had walked by the Wellington a few weeks before and thought that it might be an interesting place to stay. Situated just across the River Thames, from where we were to pick up our Ghost Bus, on Northumberland Avenue, it was also close to all the transport links we might need. The Wellington was perfect.

Our check-in was at 15:00, which was the exact time we arrived. The lady at reception was friendly and efficient and within minutes we were booked in. With swipe key in hand we made our way to the top floor, where our family room was situated.

The room was quite spacious and had 'London Eye' wallpaper across one wall. All of the rooms have this sort of design, apparently. With an en-suite bathroom, desk, television, well-stocked fridge, kettle, heating, free wi-fi and more, our room was perfect. There are also other room sizes available, depending on your needs.

Our Family Room. 

Once we had settled and watched a bit of TV, and had a drink, we made our way out for some dinner. Just around the corner, on York Road, is the 'Enough to feed an Elephant' restaurant, where we had eaten before, while waiting for our trip on the London Duck Tour. Fully fed we headed off to catch our Ghost Bus.

Following an excellent Halloween evening out, we headed back to the Wellington. With two tired girls soon tucked up in bed it was time to relax, take stock of the day and plan for the next day.

The windows and blinds were very effective in blocking out the noise from the road and train line outside, allowing for an uninterrupted night's sleep. This allowed us all to wake up fully refreshed and ready for breakfast. Hurriedly we descended the stairs to the restaurant area of the bar, where the girls tucked into croissants and cereal, while Emma and I decided on the Full English, washed down with fresh juice.

The food was perfectly cooked and served without delay. The staff, again, were friendly and helpful, making for a great experience.

The Losers.

After breakfast we headed back to our room to pack and get ready for the day ahead. Checkout was a breeze and, after a nice and interesting chat with the landlord, who was possibly the friendliest landlord I have ever met, we headed off on the next part of our two-day adventure.

With so many great thing going for it, I don't think it will too long at all before we stay at the Wellington Hotel, again.

The Victors.

If you are walking past Waterloo Station and fancy a really nice beer, great food and an amazing pub, you should pop into the Wellington and, at the very least, check out the murals.

'The Mayflower'

The Historic Mayflower.

It was a wonderfully warm Saturday afternoon as I, and my work colleagues, Gary and Steve, entered the historic 16th Century Mayflower pub, in Rotherhithe Village. Having heard so much about this place, it was about time that I visited it. And, I can tell you, it was not a disappointment.

Wooden beams and a small wooden bar, with various artefacts, which included books, models, flags, drawings and paintings and so much more, really gave the place a feeling of history.

Behind the bar of The Mayflower.

The covered seating area, which was built on decking, stretched out over the River Thames, giving a wonderful view across the river to Wapping. You could see from the Thames River Police Museum, in the northeast to almost the Prospect of Whitby. Behind the old converted warehouses, you can make out the Walkie-talkie, the Cheesegrater and the Gherkin.

'The Angel', Bermondsey

A view of The Unfinished City, from the riverside decking of the Angel pub.

It was a glorious Saturday morning as myself and two work colleagues, Gary and Steve, met up for a walk along the Thames Path, on a journey from Borough Market to Greenwich.

Gary and I ate a hearty breakfast, from the Boston Sausage stall in Borough Market, before heading across the road to The George Inn. I chose a pint of George Ale, while Gary had a lager, as we awaited the arrival of Steve.

Once the three amigos were ready, we made our way towards Tower Bridge and Shad Thames, where our stroll began in earnest.

Passing in front of Butler's Wharf, we continued along the Thames Path, until we reached The Angel public house, where we stopped for a refreshing drink. As the pub is located opposite the ruins of King Edward III's Moated Manor house, I decided that I should have a pint of Sovereign Ale, which was very refreshing.

We drank outside, on the pub's small decking that overlooks the River Thames, and took in the views.

Besides King Edward III's moated manor house, there is a small collection of statues known as 'Dr Salter's Daydream', which you can walk among.

'The Jugged Hare'

A Paradise for any Taxidermist.

Friday June 29, 2018.

It was during one of many wanders around the Unfinished City, that I discovered this wonderful pub. With its oak floors, red leather seats and walls covered in stuffed hares, along with other animals of varying size, it immediately caught my attention. So, I stopped off for a quick drink, while I planned the rest of my wander.

'Cart & Horses': Birthplace of Iron Maiden

The Cart & Horses: Birthplace of Iron Maiden.

Saturday May 26, 2018.

When I was just 10 years young, I purchased my first 7" single. It was Iron Maiden's 'Run to the Hills'. I have been a fan of theirs ever since, so I decided that it was high time that I visited The Cart & horses, Stratford, where Iron Maiden performed their first gig, back in 1976.

So, with my friend Len in tow, we made our way to Stratford, via the Jubilee line, to visit this iconic establishment on a beautiful summer afternoon.

Walking into the pub the first thing to greet us was the small stage where, back in 1976, Iron Maiden first performed.

Hallowed ground.

After a couple of photos we grabbed a drink each and admired the merchandise on sale, before heading to the rear garden to enjoy the sun.

Merchandise for sale.

A few more photos and another drink was had, before we headed off to continue our walk.

What else was I to drink?!

'Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese'

Is that the River Fleet, I hear?

One of my favourite pubs, in the City of London, is Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. I first discovered it a number of years back, when I ducked into an alleyway to avoid some freezing rain, on a cold January day. Seeing the light of the pub I wandered in.

Heading into the cellar.

On entering I found it to be quite dark, with wood panelling and little in the way of natural light. Spread across a number of floors, with various bars, it has a feeling of being lost in time.

Throughout the reigns of...

Once my eyes adjusted to the diffused light, the building almost came alive with its history.

A cosy little space in the cellar.

Buying a pint of bitter I took a seat in one of the near empty spaces and savoured the atmosphere of this historic place.

'East India Arms'

History in the Heart of the City.

The East India Arms is a wonderfully traditional pub, in the heart of the City of London. It still retains all the charm of its heritage, even with all of the new buildings, and offices. in the area.

'Tamesis Dock'

The Tamesis Dock floating pub.

It was during a late afternoon wander along the River Thames that I discovered the 'Tamesis Dock' floating pub. Intrigued I stepped aboard for a drink and found it to be cosy and welcoming. 

Never a truer word written.

Much like the TARDIS, from Doctor Who, the 'Tamesis Dock' is a lot larger on the inside than it looks from the outside. Of course, there is seating available on the decks, too, for those warm London days and nights.

'The Dickens Inn'

Dickensian.

It was while strolling around St Katharine Dock and Marina that I spotted this beautiful old converted warehouse. Intrigued by its name, and style, I decided to find out more about this fascinating building.

'The Grapes'

Grape Expectations.

The first time I discovered The Grapes, it was too early in the day to pay it a visit, so I made a plan to return to it. Sure enough, two months later, I did return and I was not disappointed.

The Grapes; A narrow pub on Narrow Street

It is a narrow space, but quite long, stretching back to a terrace, that overlooks the river. There is a spacious dining room, upstairs, where a mouth-watering selection of food can be savoured. I opted to eat downstairs, choosing from the pub grub menu; Cumberland sausage, creamy mash with a caramelised onion gravy, washed down with a pint of St. Edmunds. Beautiful.

'The George Inn'

The Unfinished City's last 'galleried' coaching inn.

The George Inn is one of those places that has existed, in some form or another, in the great Unfinished City for centuries. Unlike some other places of this age, though, The George Inn still retains all of the character that you would associate with something of this bygone era. From walking through the bars, that were frequented by Charles Dickens and William Shakespeare, to walking along the gallery, with its uneven and creaky floorboards, you get a real sense of history.

'The Prospect of Whitby'

London's oldest riverside inn.

Saturday September 10, 2016.

The Prospect of Whitby is one of the pubs, in the Unfinished City, that I had wanted to visit for many years. So, as I began a walk from St Katharine Docks, I knew where I would be ending up, which made the walk even more exciting. 

What's in a name?

The exterior is amazing, but I much preferred the view from the foreshore. Inside there is a pewter-topped bar, which compliments the 400 year old stone floor, the only original piece of the building. 

The front of The Prospect of Whitby.

On the foreshore, in front of the window overlooking the River Thames, is a replica gallows and noose, which commemorates one of the pubs frequent clients: 'Hanging' Judge Jeffreys.