Abney Park Cemetery, Stoke Newington

Abney Park Cemetery was the fourth of the eight private garden cemeteries, when it opened in 1840. It is situated in the grounds of Abney House which was once home to Isaac Watts.

For over 300,000 years people have gathered in this area, where Stone Age tools have been discovered along the banks of Hackney Brook.

It's modern roots go back to before the arrival of William the Conqueror, in 1066, when, as a small settlement, it was surrounded by land made up of fields.

In the 1600s wealthy families had large houses, with larger gardens, built here. These included Abney House and Fleetwood House. These houses were purchased by the Abney Park Cemetery Company, so that a garden cemetery could be built.

The cemetery was designed as an arboretum, botanical garden and park, as well as a place of remembrance. When it opened it had over 1,000 types of rose, from Hackney's Loddiges nursery, and 2,500 tree varieties.

By the 1960s the Cemetery Company, which had begun to lose income, leaving Abney Park to fall into neglect. Brambles, ivy and self-seeded trees allowed nature to take over.

Abney Park is now Grade II listed and is designated as a Local Nature Reserve.

The chapel was the first non-denominational cemetery chapel in Europe.

Abney Park Mortuary Chapel was designed by William Hosking and built by John Jay. The open part is where hearses brought the coffins, while inside a staircase led up to a gallery. The spire was the tallest, in the area, and could be seen from quite a distance.

It was designed in a style that was not related to any specific branch of Christianity, so that anyone could have their funeral held here. The chapel, like the cemetery, was never consecrated, making it a popular burial ground for Dissenters, especially after Bunhill Fields closed to burials.

By the 1960s the chapel was in a sorry state of disrepair, but it wouldn't be until 2017 when the roof could be repaired, following a grant from Historic England. 

The National Lottery Heritage fund gave funding for the rest of the building to be restored, between 2021-23. The stained-glass window, installed in 2021, was designed by Piotr Frac, who worked with local schools and community groups. The window represents nature in the four seasons.

In 1865 William and Catherine Booth founded the Salvation Army, so that they take God's salvation to the world.

When Catherine died, in 1890, she was buried at Abney Park. Other early leaders of the Salvation Army, including George Scott Railton and Elijah Cadman, were also buried here.

When General William Booth died, in 1912, he was buried beside his wife in one of the largest funerals London had ever seen. William and Catherine are laid to rest surrounded by the graves of many of their children.

Today, there are over 130 Salvationists buried at Abney Park.

This War Memorial was built in 1927, by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission to commemorate over 150 Commonwealth servicemen and women by name. Another 71 names were added following World War II.

There are 375 service personnel remembered at Abney Park, with over 140 in marked graves scattered throughout the park. Some of these have the distinctive Commonwealth War Graves Commission headstones.

Walking with Keilyn: Stoke Newington to Abney Park Cemetery... and beyond

'Ghost' signs.

Wednesday October 30, 2024.

Following my minor leg operation, last Friday (25th), this was my first chance to venture out for a walk. So, with Keilyn at my side, we headed out for a short walk to test my leg. However, this 'short walk' ended up being longer than I expected. Still it was good to be out and about again.

We grabbed a taxi to Watford Underground station and caught a train to Finchley Road, where we waited for an Aldgate train that would take us to Liverpool Street. 

At Liverpool Street we caught a London Overground train bound for Cheshunt, which we alighted from at Stoke Newington. 

Some of these flats were owned by the Kray twins.

We headed along Cazenove Road to Cedra Court, where the Kray twins once owned properties, before heading down Geldeston Road in search of my grandfather's old family home. Unfortunately, the house had been demolished, with flats taking up the space. 

The Royal Sovereign public house.

However, on the corner was the Royal Sovereign pub, which was used as a location in the Scott Adkins 2018 movie 'Accident Man'.

Site of the first attack on London by a foreign military power in nearly 1,000 years.

We then turned down Northwold Road, stopping at 16 Alkham Road, site of the first bomb to be dropped on London during World War I, before reaching the Yellow Warbler coffee shop, where hot drinks were purchased.

The Egyptian revival entrance to Abney Park Cemetery.

With drinks in hand we crossed Stoke Newington High Street and entered Abney Park Cemetery via the Egyptian revival entrance.

London's 'Magnificent Seven' Cemeteries. But, originally, there were eight

During the 1830s and 1840s eight private cemeteries were created in an attempt to solve the problem of overcrowding in Victorian London's churchyards. 

This was brought about by a number of factors that included the rapidly increasing rates in birth and mortality and a migration of people from rural areas to the city, due, in part, to the Industrial Revolution.

In 1831 London suffered a cholera epidemic and public health became a major issue. It was believed that poisonous vapours from decomposing bodies was a factor in the outbreak of both cholera and typhoid.

As churchyards became full graves were dug at a depth of just 3 feet (1 metre) and, within a few months, were used again. 

'Resurrection Men' were another problem. These Resurrectionists would raid cemeteries in order to snatch a body, which would then be sold to hospitals for medical students to dissect. These body snatchers would select a grave and then dig a hole at the head end. They then broke the coffin and, using a rope, dragged out the body, thus not having to do a full excavation. They were also careful not to take any jewellery or clothes, as this would result in more serious charges, punishable by transportation to the colonies. Bodies belonged to no one, so their removal was a far less serious charge. 

Such was the proliferation of 'body snatching' that Watch Houses were built, besides graveyards, and were manned by armed watchmen.

In 1832 an Act was passed by Parliament that encouraged the construction of private cemeteries outside central London.

Between 1833 and 1845 eight garden cemeteries were established, four of which were consecrated by the Bishop of London, Charles James Blomfield.

According to census records London's population was one million, in 1801, but had doubled to two million by 1841. At this point London had a death rate of over 45,000 people a year, or 125 people a day.

In 1981 Hugh Meller, an architectural historian, dubbed the surviving group of cemeteries 'The Magnificent Seven', after the movie of the same name.

Each of these cemeteries is unique, making them all worthy of a visit.

Kensal Green Cemetery (General Cemetery of All Souls)

Opened 1833, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, and founded by George Frederick Carden, a barrister. 

The main buildings were designed in the Greek Revival style, by John Griffith, and it originally covered an area of 54 acres, which was later increased to 72 acres.

It is still in operation.

Kensal Green

West Norwood Cemetery (South Metropolitan Cemetery)

Opened 1837, in the London Borough of Lambeth.

The main buildings were designed in the Gothic style, by Sir William Tite and covers an area of 40 acres.

In 1966 it was purchased by Lambeth Council who run it with the Diocese of Southwark.

It is still in operation, partially.

West Norwood

Highgate Cemetery

Opened 1839 (west) 1860 (east), in the London Borough of Camden.

Architect Stephen Geary chose this site for its views over London, which had once been the grounds of Ashurst House but now had St Michael's Church built on it in 1832.

Stephen Geary was assisted by David Ramsay, a nurseryman, in making Highgate the most beautiful and popular cemetery of its time.

It is still in operation.

Highgate

Abney Park Cemetery

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Hackney.

Situated in the grounds of Abney House, once home to Isaac Watts, this cemetery was left unconsecrated, making it a popular burial ground for Dissenters, especially after Bunhill Fields closed to burials.

The chapel was the first non-denominational cemetery chapel in Europe.

In 1979 the London Borough of Hackney took ownership of the site.

It is still in operation.

Abney Park

Brompton Cemetery (West of London and Westminster Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea.

Stephen Geary was the original architect, but he was replaced by Benjamin Baud who designed a more formal layout, including the central avenue and domed chapel.

It is the only Crown Cemetery and is managed by The Royal Parks.

It is still in operation.

Brompton

Nunhead Cemetery (All Saints' Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Southwark.

Built on a hill, with views over London, it was designed by architect James Bunstone Bunning, who had replaced Stephen Geary.

In 1976 it was purchased after it was allowed to fall into neglect by its owners United Cemeteries Limited, who were looking to build on some of the land.

It is still in operation.

Nunhead

Tower Hamlets Cemetery (City of London and Tower Hamlets Cemetery) (Bow Cemetery)

Opened 1841 (closed in 1966), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

Many of the burials here were made in common graves. In 1966 it closed, when the Greater London Council bought it, with the intention of turning it into a park. Many of the monuments and trees were removed, but, following a public outcry, it became a nature reserves and urban woodland.

It is no longer in operation.

Tower Hamlets

Victoria Park Cemetery

Opened in 1845 (closed in 1876), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

This was the last of the eight garden cemeteries, but was the first to close.

Following its closure the monuments were cleared and it was turned into a public park, opening in 1894.

It is now called Meath Gardens, with only its original archway, inscribed with 'VPC', giving any hint to its original purpose. I wonder how many people use this park, without realising what lies beneath?

Meath Gardens

Highgate Cemetery

Thursday August 15, 2024.

Highgate Cemetery is the most famous cemetery in London, if not the world, and was a place that I have wanted to visit for years.

So, with Emma, Erin and Keilyn in tow, we headed to the cemetery, arriving at around 11:45, checked in at reception and awaited the start of our tour at noon.

Exactly on time Nigel arrived and introduced himself to our group, explaining that the tour takes between 75 and and 90 minutes. Then we set off up the steps to the West Cemetery. 

At the top of steps we stopped and Nigel introduced us to James Selby. James Selby had taken a wager, in 1888, that he couldn't take his coach and horses to Brighton and back, within eight hours. It was a journey of over four hours, one way. James Selby completed the round trip in seven hours and fifty minutes.

We then moved further up Colonnade Path where we were introduced to more of the cemetery's guests and the giant mausoleum of Otway, with its glass skylights and iron railings in the shape of upturned cannon, with spiked cannonballs.

Close to this was the grave of Alexander Litvinenko and then the wellkept family plot of Georgios Kyriacos Panayiotou. aka George Michael.

A fox appeared from between some gravestones, took a quick glance at the group and then disappeared into the undergrowth.

We then continued up Main Drive and visited the grave of Elizabeth Jackson, who was the first person to be buried in the cemetery.

Before we knew it we were approaching Egyptian Avenue, with its obelisks. The avenue, which is now roofless, was lined with vaults. 

Each of these vaults are home to not just the dead, but orb weaver spiders, of which there are thousands. These spiders are usually only found in caves and it is thought they may have been living in the cemetery for over 150 years.

Exiting Egyptian Avenue brought us out into the Circle of Lebanon, with its massive family vaults. 

Nigel stopped by various ones of interest, telling us stories and some of the things that had been filmed here, normally without permission. For instance, the Aird family Mausoleum was used in the film 'The Abominable Dr Phibes'.

We then saw the tomb of George Wombwell, before Nigel unlocked the gate of the Terrace Catacombs and we delved into the cool darkness. 

We saw some of the lead-lined coffins, some in a poor state, while others were still behind the original glass. 

Towards the eastern end we could see the damage done to some of the coffins, when people, believing that vampires were in the catacombs, broke in to destroy the bodies.

Suitably satisfied, and with many of the younger audience a little shaken, we headed out of the catacombs.

We were told about the Beer Mausoleum before we went off to see the grave of Thomas Sayers, who holds the the record for the biggest funeral in the history of the cemetery.

We then travelled down Morgan Road and on to Sayers Road, before heading down Faraday Path to the grave of Michael Faraday.

We then continued along the path until we found ourselves back at the courtyard.

West Cemetery Gallery