Parkland Walk

Crouch End station.

Tucked away in the urban landscape of North London lies one of the city's most enchanting secrets: the Parkland Walk. More than just a path, this stretch of reclaimed railway line is a unique ribbon of wilderness, a haven for nature lovers, history buffs, and anyone seeking a tranquil escape from the city hustle.

So, if you’ve ever wanted to walk through a genuine urban jungle where the past meets the present, this is the perfect place.

Mother Nature reclaiming the railway infrastructure.

The history of the Parkland Walk is as fascinating as its present-day beauty. It follows the disused track of the former Great Northern Railway line that once connected Finsbury Park to Alexandra Palace. Opened in 1873, the line was meant to be a transport artery, but plans to integrate it into the London Underground (as part of the Northern Line extension) were eventually abandoned.

Passenger services ceased in the 1950s, and the final service ran in 1970. The tracks were pulled up soon after, and Mother Nature began her incredible reclamation project. Recognising its ecological value, the area was protected and, in 1990, was officially declared London's longest linear Local Nature Reserve.

Walking here, you are literally strolling on the remnants of Victorian ambition, where steam trains once chugged and now, only the rustling of leaves and the song of birds remain.

Walking with Keilyn: Highgate to Finsbury Park... and beyond

Sunday October 26, 2025.

It was a spur of the moment idea to head to London, for a walk.

So, after a decent breakfast Keilyn and I got a taxi to Watford Underground station and boarded a Baker Street-bound train. We alighted at Finchley Road and waited for 3-minutes for an Aldgate-bound train, which we took to King's Cross St Pancras. From here we took the Northern line to Highgate.

On leaving Highgate station we headed south, along Archway Road, until we reached Holmesdale Road. This brought us to the start, or end, of the Parkland Walk (south). Parkland Walk is split into two sections, north and south. The north walk runs from Cranley Gardens to Muswell Hill 0.4 miles (750m), while the south walk stretches from Highgate to Finsbury Park 1.8 miles (3 km). In total it stretches for 3.1 miles (5 km), along with the about a 1-mile (1.3-1.8 km) gap between the two sections. The Parkland Walk is also London's longest linear nature reserve.

The first point of interest was the now sealed tunnels that run beneath Highgate, through which the train line once ran. These tunnels are now home to three species of bats: Brown Long Eared Bat, Common Pipistrelle Bat and the Daubenton's Bat.

From here we began our walk, westward, following the route of the old train line towards Finsbury Park. The next point of interest, that Keilyn spotted first, was a bench with a forlorn looking toy rabbit sitting on it, beside a tree with various charms and named disks hanging from it. This is the 'Baby Loss Tree', and was quite emotional to stand beneath.

We then continued our walk, passing old railway infrastructure, that has been reclaimed by nature, while keeping our eyes peeled for wildlife. It was a busy route, with dogwalkers, joggers and families all making the most of the unseasonably warm temperature.

We crossed railway bridges, high above the roads, looking out across London at the various landmarks that were visible. Eventually we reached the site of the former Crouch End railway station. Unlike the rest of the stations along the route, the platforms had been left for people to walk along. 

An A-board, on one of the platforms, advertised coffee, so up the steps we clambered and entered 'Merro'. This wonderful little coffee shop is housed in what is left of the old station house and had old photographs framed on the wall.

'Windrush & Commonwealth NHS Nurses and Midwives Statue' by Dr Jak Beula

At the entrance to the Whittington Hospital, on Magdala Avenue, there is a stylised mother and child statue.

It depicts a mother cradling her newborn baby, with the mother wearing a nurses' fob watch.

This unique statue was commissioned to commemorate the extraordinary efforts of the some 40,000 Windrush and Commonwealth NHS nurses and midwives, who came to the UK between 1948 and 1973 in order to help the newly created NHS.

The statue consists of 16 pieces of granite and is 2.1m in height, width and depth and cost £100,000.

It was unveiled on Friday September 10, 2021.

A worn brass plaque reads:

'The Windrush & Commonwealth NHS Nurses and Midwives Statue' was conceived and designed by Johnny Alexander Bebeula Dodd, aka Dr Jak Beula. 

He named the piece "NICU Suite 16" because of the 16 pieces of granite used to create the statue. 

It is dedicated to all Commonwealth National Health Service staff, notably Nurses and Midwives from Africa and the Caribbean, who have worked in the NHS since its foundation in 1948. 

The Nubian Jak Community Trust thanks Whittington Health NHS Trust and Islington Council for supporting this NHS Memorial. 

Special thanks to Islington BH365, Haringey Council, Ernst & young, Arsenal Football Club, Entain PLC, Havas Group, Aviva, Crowdfunder UK and the generous donations from nursing organisations and the general public for the successful delivery of this statue. May she be a source of inspiration to all NHS staff and provide light,  hope and pride to those who come into contact with this memorial.

'Dick Whittington's Cat' statue and the 'Whittington Stone'

On Highgate Hill there is a stone with a statue of a cat, protected behind an iron cage.

This is the Whittington Stone and Dick Whittington's Cat.

The Whittington Stone

The Whittington Stone is a large two-segment Portland Stone tablet, erected in 1821, and marks, roughly, where Dick Whittington supposedly turned at the sound of the bells of St Mary-le-Bow.

The stone was restored in 1935.

The Cat statue was added in 1964 and was designed by Jonathan Kenworthy and is made of Kellymount limestone. It was originally polished-black.

On its two faces are inscriptions of the life of Dick Whittington. The inscription on one side has been completely eroded, but some of the inscription can still be read on the other face.

Dick Whittington and His Cat

Dick Whittington and His Cat is an English folklore telling the rise of poverty-stricken Dick Whittington, who sold his cat to a rat infested country, to attain a fortune.

Another story tells of his heading home to Highgate Hill, but stopping when he heard the sound of Bow Bells, some 4.5 miles away, promising him that he would be mayor of London, one day.

London's 'Magnificent Seven' Cemeteries. But, originally, there were eight

During the 1830s and 1840s eight private cemeteries were created in an attempt to solve the problem of overcrowding in Victorian London's churchyards. 

This was brought about by a number of factors that included the rapidly increasing rates in birth and mortality and a migration of people from rural areas to the city, due, in part, to the Industrial Revolution.

In 1831 London suffered a cholera epidemic and public health became a major issue. It was believed that poisonous vapours from decomposing bodies was a factor in the outbreak of both cholera and typhoid.

As churchyards became full graves were dug at a depth of just 3 feet (1 metre) and, within a few months, were used again. 

'Resurrection Men' were another problem. These Resurrectionists would raid cemeteries in order to snatch a body, which would then be sold to hospitals for medical students to dissect. These body snatchers would select a grave and then dig a hole at the head end. They then broke the coffin and, using a rope, dragged out the body, thus not having to do a full excavation. They were also careful not to take any jewellery or clothes, as this would result in more serious charges, punishable by transportation to the colonies. Bodies belonged to no one, so their removal was a far less serious charge. 

Such was the proliferation of 'body snatching' that Watch Houses were built, besides graveyards, and were manned by armed watchmen.

In 1832 an Act was passed by Parliament that encouraged the construction of private cemeteries outside central London.

Between 1833 and 1845 eight garden cemeteries were established, four of which were consecrated by the Bishop of London, Charles James Blomfield.

According to census records London's population was one million, in 1801, but had doubled to two million by 1841. At this point London had a death rate of over 45,000 people a year, or 125 people a day.

In 1981 Hugh Meller, an architectural historian, dubbed the surviving group of cemeteries 'The Magnificent Seven', after the movie of the same name.

Each of these cemeteries is unique, making them all worthy of a visit.

Kensal Green Cemetery (General Cemetery of All Souls)

Opened 1833, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, and founded by George Frederick Carden, a barrister. 

The main buildings were designed in the Greek Revival style, by John Griffith, and it originally covered an area of 54 acres, which was later increased to 72 acres.

It is still in operation.

Kensal Green

West Norwood Cemetery (South Metropolitan Cemetery)

Opened 1837, in the London Borough of Lambeth.

The main buildings were designed in the Gothic style, by Sir William Tite and covers an area of 40 acres.

In 1966 it was purchased by Lambeth Council who run it with the Diocese of Southwark.

It is still in operation, partially.

West Norwood

Highgate Cemetery

Opened 1839 (west) 1860 (east), in the London Borough of Camden.

Architect Stephen Geary chose this site for its views over London, which had once been the grounds of Ashurst House but now had St Michael's Church built on it in 1832.

Stephen Geary was assisted by David Ramsay, a nurseryman, in making Highgate the most beautiful and popular cemetery of its time.

It is still in operation.

Highgate

Abney Park Cemetery

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Hackney.

Situated in the grounds of Abney House, once home to Isaac Watts, this cemetery was left unconsecrated, making it a popular burial ground for Dissenters, especially after Bunhill Fields closed to burials.

The chapel was the first non-denominational cemetery chapel in Europe.

In 1979 the London Borough of Hackney took ownership of the site.

It is still in operation.

Abney Park

Brompton Cemetery (West of London and Westminster Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea.

Stephen Geary was the original architect, but he was replaced by Benjamin Baud who designed a more formal layout, including the central avenue and domed chapel.

It is the only Crown Cemetery and is managed by The Royal Parks.

It is still in operation.

Brompton

Nunhead Cemetery (All Saints' Cemetery)

Opened 1840, in the London Borough of Southwark.

Built on a hill, with views over London, it was designed by architect James Bunstone Bunning, who had replaced Stephen Geary.

In 1976 it was purchased after it was allowed to fall into neglect by its owners United Cemeteries Limited, who were looking to build on some of the land.

It is still in operation.

Nunhead

Tower Hamlets Cemetery (City of London and Tower Hamlets Cemetery) (Bow Cemetery)

Opened 1841 (closed in 1966), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

Many of the burials here were made in common graves. In 1966 it closed, when the Greater London Council bought it, with the intention of turning it into a park. Many of the monuments and trees were removed, but, following a public outcry, it became a nature reserves and urban woodland.

It is no longer in operation.

Tower Hamlets

Victoria Park Cemetery

Opened in 1845 (closed in 1876), in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets.

This was the last of the eight garden cemeteries, but was the first to close.

Following its closure the monuments were cleared and it was turned into a public park, opening in 1894.

It is now called Meath Gardens, with only its original archway, inscribed with 'VPC', giving any hint to its original purpose. I wonder how many people use this park, without realising what lies beneath?

Meath Gardens