West Norwood Cemetery (South Metropolitan Cemetery)

The South Metropolitan Cemetery was the second of the eight private garden cemeteries and was opened in 1837, in the London Borough of Lambeth.

The main buildings were designed in the Gothic style, by Sir William Tite, and the cemetery covers an area of 40 acres. The crematorium opened in 1915.

In 1966 it was purchased by Lambeth Council who run it with the Diocese of Southwark.

It is home to over 65 listed monuments and is still in operation, partially.

When West Norwood Cemetery was built, in 1837, London faced a crisis. Her churchyards and burial grounds were full, so garden cemeteries, like this one, were created. The South Metropolitan Cemetery, as it was originally known, was the second of eight cemeteries opened between 1833 and 1845.

There are over 250,000 people buried in over 45,000 graves.

The River Effra still flows beneath the cemetery.

The Chapels and Catacombs

When the cemetery opened it had two chapels, both designed in the Tudor Gothic style. 

The main chapel was Church of England and had turrets, arched arcades, and catacombs, while the second chapel was for Christians not part of the Church of England. Following extensive bombing, during World War II, the chapels were severely damaged and ended up being knocked down. The Catacombs remained, but were heavily damaged.

London Ambulance Service: A Brief History

On Waterloo Road you will find the headquarters for the London Ambulance Service, which has been in this building since 1973.

On their forecourt you will find three ambulances: a 1949 Daimler DC27, a 1965 Morris LD and a 2004 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter Ambulance.

The 1949 Daimler DC27 is one of 120 that were built. This was the first, fleet number A1 and it remained in operation until the late 1950s.

The Morris LD ambulance replaced the Daimler DC27, coming into service in 1965. Shorter, lighter and more manoeuvrable it was better suited to London's congested roads.

The 2004 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter carries far more equipment than any of its predecessors, which only carried a stretcher, oxygen and treatment boxes, as they weren't expected to do much remedial work at the scene.

Affixed to the wall of the headquarters are various information boards which give a history of the service, along with photographs taken throughout the years.

A small well-maintained memorial garden is a space for family, friends and work colleagues of the staff and volunteers who have died, in service or retirement, to come and remember them.

There is also a memorial plaque, which is a copy of a plaster relief sculpted by Station Officer D.M. Thrupp of the London Auxiliary Ambulance Service, in 1941.

In April 2021 a tree was planted, in the memorial garden, to remember London Ambulance Service staff who died during the COVID-19 pandemic.

This year marks 60 years of the London Ambulance Service, as we know it now. So, let us take a look at its remarkable history.

Serving around 8.6 million people, the London Ambulance Service is the busiest ambulance service in the United Kingdom and one of the busiest in the world, employing around 5,300 staff. In a typical year the London Ambulance Service responds to over 2.1 million 999 calls and attends 1.2 million incidents.

The Bus Cafe, Waterloo

The Bus Cafe, within Waterloo Bus Garage, is a hidden gem of a place, offering a cheap eating experience for those in the know.

This traditional canteen, originally solely for bus drivers, has a simple decor, no frills plastic furniture and a pool table. Today it is a friendly and relaxed place with a retro vibe. 

Its menu, with many of its meals priced below £10, offers full English breakfasts, burgers, salads, sandwiches, soups, sandwiches and much more. Then there are the West Indian specialities like jerk chicken and mutton pies. There are also 'specials' that change frequently.

As the cafe is now open to anyone it attracts locals, office workers and tourists, while still serving bus drivers and maintenance crews. 

The Bus Cafe is located at 6 Cornwall Road, within Waterloo bus garage, with its entrance opposite Emma Cons Gardens.

Go through the gate, but keep to the pedestrian footpath, and the Bus Cafe entrance will be on your right. There is an outdoor seating area, but this is purely for bus drivers.

Waterloo Bus Garage

The site on which Waterloo bus garage now stands, was first used in 1951, as a storage and servicing location for buses attending the Festival of Britain.

It wasn't until the 1980s that it became a bus garage, operating London bus limited stop routes which were used as high frequency commuter services, in central London.

In the 1990s London's first fleet of Mercedes-Benz Citaro articulated buses replaced the AEC Routemasters that operated route 11. These Routemasters were transferred to Stockwell bus garage, as the articulated buses required more room.

In 2009 the Mercedes-Benz Citaro articulated fleet was replaced with Mercedes-Benz O530 Citaros.

In 2016 Waterloo bus garage was the first bus garage, in Europe, to be fully converted to electric.

In 2019 the bus garage won the prize for 'Sustainable Energy' at the 'Energy Globe' awards.

In 2023 bus routes 507 and 521 were withdrawn, leaving Waterloo bus garage with just one route, the 214. This is a 24-hour service between Highgate Village and Finsbury Square.

Walking with friends: Waterloo to Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens... and beyond

Wednesday August 27, 2025.

Having arrived back from our family holiday, in Lanzarote, on Monday, I was itching to get back to walking London's streets and discover new places.

Fortunately, I still had some time off, before I return to work next month.

My friend and colleague, Steve, also had this week off from work, so we met at Watford underground station and set off for London. Our Metropolitan line train took us to Finchley Road, where we switched to a Jubilee line train to take us to Waterloo, where our walk would begin.

As the weather forecast said rain was due in the afternoon, we both had light coats with us 

Exiting Waterloo station, we crossed Waterloo Road and made our way to the Waterloo Bus Garage, where we would have breakfast at the Bus Cafe. Now, Waterloo Bus Garage is a significant place as it became the first fully electric bus depot, in Europe, in 2016.

On entering the Bus Cafe we grabbed an available table, before I ordered two Full English breakfasts, with coffee. We didn't have to wait too long before it was served to us. As we ate the rain, that was promised for the afternoon, suddenly released a deluge. 

After we had finished we got speaking with a man at a neighbouring table. It turns out he had just flown in from Canada and, on hearing about the Bus Cafe, had entered to try his first ever Full English breakfast. A mum and daughter, at another table, were also here on their first visit. The rest of the cafe was full of bus drivers on their breaks or preparing to start their shifts.

We left the Bus Cafe and headed down Waterloo Road towards the London Ambulance Service Headquarters, where we looked at the three ambulances preserved on the forecourt, taking photos and reading about the history of the London Ambulance Service.

From here we headed down Pearman Street, crossed Westminster Bridge Road and continued down King Edward Walk, crossed Lambeth Road and cut through Geraldine Mary Harmsworth Park to reach Kennington Road.

We followed Kennington Road until we turned down Chester Way, then Kennington Lane where we turned down White Hart Street. It was here, on the Kennings Estate that we discovered some ARP stretchers being used as railings. Eventually we found ourselves on Kennington Park Road.

From here we rejoined Kennington Road and made our way to 'The Dog House', as we had heard great things about it. Plus, we were getting thirsty. Unfortunately, the pub was late in opening, so we entered 'The Tommyfield', which stands opposite.

We ordered our drinks and grabbed a table, from where we checked out the pub. It turns out that this pub has comedy nights, where various comedy figures have played.

Suitably hydrated we crossed Kennington Lane and entered 'The Dog House'. And what a delight it was. We had entered into what, at one time had been the 'public' bar, where a glass cabinet held taxidermied birds, while teapots hung from the ceiling. A short corridor, covered in small movie posters promoting various horror and science fiction films.

Entering the 'Saloon' bar we discovered more taxidermied animals, while empty bird cages hung from the ceiling. The walls were adorned with random photos, prints, African tribal masks and so much more. A small snug had oriental parasols hanging above it. It is an eclectic place. After looking around as much as we could and having spoken with the landlord, about the building, we took our drinks outside to the beer garden and relaxed.

On leaving 'The Dog House' we passed the house where Charlie Chaplin had lived, from 1889-1978, before crossing Kennington Road and heading down Black Prince Road. We passed 'The Black Prince' pub and Venn Park, before reaching Tyers Street, where we stopped for a drink at 'The Jolly Gardeners'. 

Now, I have been here before and this pub houses a piano that was, supposedly, played by Charlie Chaplin Senior. It is stood in the corner of the pub, in a sorry looking state. There is no plaque or information that states its history, but it is still an intriguing piece to look at. After looking at the piano we sat in the open-air garden and sipped our drinks.

On leaving the pub we continued along Black Prince Road, where I pointed out 'The Queen's Head' pub, which is now a bistro. At one time, in its past, this pub was frequented by Charlie Chaplin as it was run by his Uncle. It was here that he drew inspiration for his "Tramp" character, after noticing a patron, Archibald Binks, who wore large loose fitting trousers and walked with a shuffle.

We continued our walk until we reached the 'Doulton' building, with its ornate office building, on the corner of Lambeth High Street. This is one of my favourite buildings in the area.

Turning up Lambeth High Street we stopped, so that Steve could have his photo taken with some firemen.

 

We then entered 'The Windmill Pub'. This is another pub that I had visited before and was eager to show Steve its wonderful interior and its amazing and entertaining 'If Places Were Faces, London' drawing. And Steve loved it, spending far too much time laughing at the names and faces on it. We then looked around the pub, before sitting to sip our drinks.

We then headed back down Lambeth High Street and back along Black Prince Road until we reached Vauxhall Walk, which we followed, passing the National Crime Agency building, until we reached Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens. 

Bower, Archbishop's Park

If you visit the wonderful Archbishop's Park, Lambeth, which covers an area of 3.93 hectares (9.7 acres), you will discover lots of interesting sculptures and public works of art, wildlife ponds, bee hives and much more.

However, for me, the hand-carved Bower (place of repose) is an amazing piece of craftsmanship that is a wonderful place to sit and relax. 

Unveiled in 2013, this beautiful work of art was designed and hand-crafted by local craftsman, Arthur de Mowbray, who has also designed pieces for MillenniuM Green, in Waterloo, and other places. 

The project was commissioned by the Friends of Archbishop's Park and was funded by a grant from Biffa Awards.

Southbank House, Lambeth

Doulton Pottery Building.

I am constantly surprised how, every now and again, a startling piece of architecture can survive, while all around is replaced with concrete, glass and steel. So I was completely taken when I saw this ornate and overly stylised building. I needed to find out more about it.

Glazed tiles and terracotta dressings.

The building, which stands at the corner of Black Prince road and Lambeth High Street, dates from 1876-78 and was possibly designed by Robert Stark Wilkinson. There is some confusion to the actual architect as others were also involved. It is built of red brick with polychromy, with pink and sandy-coloured terracotta dressings. Its entire facade is highly ornate.

Stunning architecture. Image © Gary Peterson

This building is the only surviving part of the Doulton Pottery Complex, which extended back behind the buildings.

MillenniuM Pathway, Archbishop's Park

Archbishop's Park, Lambeth, is a wonderful park that sits just to the east of Lambeth Palace Gardens. In fact it was once part of Lambeth Palace Gardens, before Archbishop Archibald Campbell Tait opened over 9 acres of land for use by the poor of the area.

Besides the usual sports fields and courts, there is a wonderful play area, a stunning bench, a community orchard, gardens and much more.

A path that flows through the park has stepping stone plaques, embedded in the tarmac, which chart the history of the area, along with some of the area's more famous names. 

It was unveiled in June 2000 with local residents choosing the subjects of the plaques.

Plaques Timeline

1000 - Lambeth is mainly marshland and open countryside punctuated by Roman roads and a few small settlements

1041 - The Anglo Saxon chronicle records 'This year died Hardicanute at Lambeth, as he stood drinking'.

1087 - Domesday Book lists Lambeth, or Lanchei, as belonging to Countess Goda, sister of Edward the Confessor.

1197 - The Manor of Lambeth is acquired by  the Archbishop of Canterbury. The building of Lambeth Palace begins during this period.

1339 - Edward III gives Kennington to the Black Prince, who builds a palace.

1534 - Sir Thomas More refuses to swear allegiance to the King at Lambeth Palace.

1605 - Guy Fawkes and his fellow conspirators store their gunpowder in a house in  Lambeth.

1634 - Tradescant opens his museum of curiosities to the public.

1661 - John writes of his 'Pretty Contrived

1731 - Birth of Henry Cavendish who weighed the world at Clapham.

1740 - Death of Margaret Finch Queen of the Norwood Gypsies aged 109.

1760 - Dr Johnson stays with the Thrales at Streatham Place.

1770 - Campaign tp abolish slavery is spearheaded by the Clapham Sect.

1771 - Opening of Astley's Amphitheatre in Westminster Bridge Road. The first indoor circus.

1793 - William Blake writes of 'Songs of Experience' while living in Hercules Road.

1802 - A hermit called 'Matthews the Hairyman' lives in a cave in the remote Norwood hills.

1820 - Henry Potter breeds leeches at Streatham to supply the London hospitals.

1826 - Doulton and Watts begin making pottery from premises in Lambeth High Street.

1848 - Mass meeting of Chartists on Kennington Common to present a petition to Parliament

1853 - The Crystal Palace moves from Hyde Park to the Norwood Ridge and the surrounding area develops rapidly.

1880 - Clapham Rovers win the  FA Cup.

1898 - Charlie Chaplin leaves Kennington Road School to join a Clog Dancing Troupe, aged nine.

1902 - WG Grace plays at Streatham Cricket Club, known as one of the most attractive grounds in the country.

1936 - Lupino Lane sings 'The Lambeth Walk' in the show 'Me and My Girl', and it becomes an international dance craze.

1938 - Alfie Howard, Lambeth's Town Crier, attends his first function. He's still working at the age of 87 as this path is made.

1945 - Lambeth Baths receives a direct hit from a V2 rocket. Thirty seven people are killed in Lambeth's worst incident of World War II.

1948 - The Empire Windrush docks in Southampton, the post-war immigration from the West Indies begins and Brixton's black community flourishes.

1951 - The Festival of Britain and the redevelopment of the South Bank.

1981 - The Brixton Riots act as a catalyst for change and regeneration in the inner city.

1990 - Brixton produces its first Prime Minister, John Major.

2000 - Ken Livingstone, Lambeth born and bred, becomes London's first elected Mayor. The London Eye transforms the London skyline.

Mosaics and Ceramics, Black Prince Road

Walking along Black Prince Road towards the River Thames you will pass beneath the main railway line out of Waterloo. Much like the tunnel, on Centaur Street, where the William Blake mosaics can be found, this tunnel has mosaics of the Black Prince, from throughout the ages. 

The south wall is home to six mosaics, five of which represent The Black Prince, while the sixth has an image of Muhammad Ali and represents the 'Black Lives Matter' movement.

The tunnel also has ceramic tiles showcasing the area's history with Lambeth wares of Doulton.

Walking with Keilyn: Waterloo to Lambeth... and beyond

Tuesday May 27, 2025.

As I had a few days away from work, Keilyn had planned the day by saying that she wanted to revisit the Imperial War Museum. Possibly trying to learn more about the military, before she joins the Army Cadets in September.

With the weather forecast telling us that there would be intermittent rain showers, throughout the day, we set off. A gentle walk to Watford Metropolitan station was where we took a train to Finchley Road, where we changed to a Jubilee line train to complete our journey. However, Harold Stabler had designed 18 decorative tiles, that can only be found at 5 specific stations, so I suggested jumping off the train at St John's Wood, so that I could get a photo of them all. Keilyn agreed.

As soon as we pulled into St John's Wood we alighted from the train and began searching for the tiles. I already had a photo of 11 of them, so there were only 7 more to find. In the three minutes before the next train arrived we found another 5. I guess I am going to have to do another trip to find the last 2.

We boarded the next train and alighted at Waterloo, from where our walk would begin. 

We headed southeast, along Waterloo Road, with the 'London Ambulance Service Headquarters' being our first stop. Three ambulances, a 1947 Daimler DC27, a 1965 Morris LD and a 2004 Mercedes Sprinter, were stood on the plaza, in front of the building, while information sheets, affixed to the rear wall, told the history of the service.

With photos taken we headed back up Waterloo Road, with the Waterloo Bus Depot being our next stop. A bus garage may not be that exciting, even if this particular one was the first to have an all electric fleet, but it does have a cafe that is open to the public. So, we went in, ordering a full English breakfast, for myself, and a small breakfast for Keilyn. The food was perfectly cooked, with the meal coming with tea, for Keilyn, and coffee for myself. The food was delicious and we demolished it all.

On leaving the 'Bus Cafe' we headed to the Waterloo MillenniuM Garden, just as rain began to fall. Not a heavy rain, but a rain that could quite easily soak you to the skin. The garden has a pond, sculptures, meadows and wildlife areas and was fun to explore.

"Was this Piano played by Charles Chaplin Senior?"

While wandering around Vauxhall I popped into 'The Jolly Gardeners' for a drink. While chatting with the barmaid she told me that the piano, standing forlorn in the corner, was played regularly by Charles Chaplin Senior. 

I have to say that I was a bit disbelieving about this titbit of information, considering the state of the instrument and the lack of a plaque. Still, it was something that I would research later, just to see if there was any truth in it.

Although Charles Chaplin Senior was a music hall entertainer, beginning his career as a mimic, at the age of 24. Soon after he changed his act to that of a 'dramatic and descriptive singer'.

He was never inclined to learn an instrument, and I can find no evidence that he could play the piano.

He toured the United States of America, in 1890, and continued to pull in the crowds until 1897. His last appearance was at the Granville Theatre, Waltham Green, in 1900.

So far there is no information that suggests that this piano was played by him.

But... hang on.

Many of those in the music hall industry became alcoholics, as they were expected to encourage customers to purchase drinks. This was what happened to Charles.

His son, Charlie Spencer Chaplin, wrote in his memoirs that he would often wait outside public houses, where his father, being an alcoholic, could always be found.

St Mary-at-Lambeth Church and Tower

Standing beside Lambeth Palace is all that remains of St Mary-at-Lambeth church. Or, more correctly, its tower.

There has been a church on this site since before 1086, while Lambeth Palace opened in 1435.

In 1851 the church was demolished, with the exception of the tower, and rebuilt, so that more seats could be added. This Middle Ages inspired building remained in use until 1972. 

At the base of the tower, is an immersion font. Archbishop of Canterbury Edward Benson (1883-1896) appointed his close friend John Reeve as the Rector of St Mary's, in 1894. Reeve commissioned this font in Benson's memory. It is one of only two known examples of an immersion font to be found in an Anglican church.

The tower is still accessible to visitors who, for a small fee, can climb the 131 steps to the roof of the tower.

Bell Building, Lambeth

Since 1560 this was the site of a public house, named The Bell Inn, with an address of 11 Church Street. St Mary-at-Lambeth church, which stood at the road's western end, was how Church Street got its name.

Following the street renaming process, which took place between 1857-1929, its address became 111 Lambeth Road.

Alterations were made, in 1930, when the building incorporated the refreshments room, previously a tobacconists, next door. 

This new building, built in the neo-Tudor style, opened in 1931, but ultimately closed as a public house in 1958.

It was redeveloped with residential flats, above, and offices on the ground floor.

It is believed that the Inn got its name from the bell that was rung to summon ferrymen to the nearby River Thames.

Model Village, Vauxhall Park

It was while on one of my many walks that I discovered Vauxhall Park and, by extension, this model village. 

There are only about six homes and three smaller buildings, but it is quite a nice thing to discover.

With the other work going on in the park I assumed that this was a new installation, as the buildings looked freshly painted and maintained. It wasn't until I did some research, for this blog post, that I discovered their remarkable history. Enjoy.

In the 1950s this model village was moved from its original home, in Brockwell Park, and placed in Vauxhall Park. The buildings are signed and dated, on the inside, by Edgar Wilson, 1943. Edgar Wilson, who lived in West Norwood, was a retired engineer who took up making model villages, among other things, in his later years. He tinted the concrete and etched the brick, timbers and roof tiles by hand and used lead for the windows and doors. Originally this village was created in the Tudor style, with white walls and black timbers. 

In 2018, the houses were given a 'Suffragette' makeover, using a purple, green and white colour scheme. These colours were chosen as the model village now resides on the Fawcett Garden, which is named for Millicent Garrett Fawcett. 

A small heart-shaped plaque states:

Friends of Vauxhall Park

These model houses were made for Vauxhall Park

In 1949 by Edgar Wilson of Norwood.

He made other sets of houses but only these

And a set in Melbourne, Australia, remain.

These houses were restored in 2001

By local resident and friend of Vauxhall Park,

Mr Nobby Clark.

They were unveiled in June 2001

By local MP for Vauxhall Ms Kate Hoey.

Edgar Wilson made three of these villages.

One village, at Finsbury Park, was vandalised and fell into disrepair, with nothing of the village remaining today.

The village at Brockwell Park decayed due to a lack of care and, but was repaired and restored. Today, it consists of about half-a-dozen houses.

Following World War II, Edgar Wilson had been so touched by food parcels, sent from Australia, that he wrote to them and asked if they would like a model Tudor village for their city. They accepted and so the third village was crated and shipped to Melbourne, Australia, where it was installed in Fitzroy Gardens. It is still there to this day.

'Charlie Chaplin Mosaic' by Southbank Mosaics

If you were to walk along Lambeth Walk you will discover four small mosaic of Charlie Chaplin, by Southbank Mosaics.

They are set into the wall of Chandler Hall, home of Southbank Mosaics, in two pairs. 

I like that the colours are muted, reflecting how most knew him from his films. I don't think that colourful depictions would have done the subject justice.

They were created by Southbank Mosaics, which is an open artisan studio and training centre, with an aim to make the concrete streets of the neighbourhood more attractive.

As a training centre they teach heritage skills, such as mosaic, and have set up over 250 installations throughout London. These include Blake's Lambeth, which saw 70 of William Blake's works turned into mosaic. These were then used to transform the tunnels, that lead out of Waterloo station, from dull, lifeless places into a welcoming free art gallery.

Walking around this area of the South Bank there are plenty of free mosaic and other public art installations to discover, so it is well worth seeking out what is on offer.