The Surrey Chapel and The Ring

On the northern corner of Blackfriars Road and Union Street stood the Surrey Chapel, built in 1783. It then took on a completely different persona.

The Surrey Chapel was one of the first octagonal churches, in England, and was constructed in 1783, by Reverend Rowland Hill. The chapel had innovative features that included gas lighting, underfloor heating and an organ that used thunder and lightning effects, He chose the octagonal design so that the Devil would not be able to lurk in the corners.

Able to hold 1,200 people, the eccentric Reverend Hill preached here for nearly fifty years, usually to a full congregation, from his pulpit that was situated in the centre of the chapel.

In 1881 the chapel closed and, by 1910, was converted into a boxing arena, by Dick Burge, who was a former British lightweight champion between 1891-1897, and his wife Bella. They replaced the pulpit with a raised, roped-in enclosure, with a circular stage surrounded by seats for spectators.

Dick Burge renamed the building 'The Ring', which stems from early literal ground-drawn fight circles used in the early bare-knuckle boxing days under London Prize Ring Rules.

It would become the first indoor boxing ring for the working classes and would go on to become one of the most popular boxing venues, in London, famous as a proving ground for boxing talent, where well-known prize-fighters took on apprentice fighters. 

2025: A Year in Review

HMS Belfast 'fires' her guns.

What a year 2025 turned out to be!

I surpassed last year's walking and underground distances, while visiting new places, and some familiar places, with family and friends.

January

Almost good enough to eat.

Some of the highlights from January included visiting Paddington and Kensington, where we saw 'The Wild Table of Love', 'Man in a Clock', Kensington Gardens, Gnome Land (again), the Design Museum and Japan House. At Japan House Keilyn and I visited the 'Looks delicious! Exploring Japan's food replica culture' exhibition, which was a wonderful and informative exhibition, which Keilyn really enjoyed.

Camden, Hampstead Heath, 'London School of Mosaic', the 'World Peace Garden' and the Regent's Park were all visited, too.

The 'Whitechapel Bell Foundry', 'Trinity Green Almshouses', the Regent's Canal, Mile End Park and Ropemakers Fields, Canary Wharf and Trinity Buoy Wharf, for what would be the first of three visits this year.

February

Knight of Cnihtengild.

February saw me partaking in only a few walks. I saw the statue of the 'Knight of Cnihtengild' by Denys Mitchell, Elsyng Spital Church Tower, the Bell Building in Lambeth and the 'Sam the Cat' statue, all while learning much more.

March

BBC Television Centre.

Some of the highlights from March saw us visit Swiss Cottage, Lancaster Gate, Portobello Road Market, BBC Television Centre, Shepherd's Bush Market and 'The Princess Victoria', one of London's last 'Gin Palaces'. 

Crystal Palace Park and its dinosaurs, Primrose Hill, Camley Street Natural Park, the 'Word on the Water' bookshop on a boat, the grave of Joseph Grimaldi and various alleyways were also explored. A highlight was Emma and I staying at The Tower Hotel, for our anniversary.

April

Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper).

April highlights included visiting Barbican, the 'hidden' garden at St Vedast-alias-Foster, seeing possibly the oldest tree in the City of London, Tower Hill Market, Borough Market and Lambeth, where we discovered a piano that was once played by Charlie Chaplin Senior. 

East India Docks, the 'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)', West India Docks, Trinity Buoy Wharf (second visit) and the Royal Docks.

Walking with friends: Waterloo to Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens... and beyond

Wednesday August 27, 2025.

Having arrived back from our family holiday, in Lanzarote, on Monday, I was itching to get back to walking London's streets and discover new places.

Fortunately, I still had some time off, before I return to work next month.

My friend and colleague, Steve, also had this week off from work, so we met at Watford underground station and set off for London. Our Metropolitan line train took us to Finchley Road, where we switched to a Jubilee line train to take us to Waterloo, where our walk would begin.

As the weather forecast said rain was due in the afternoon, we both had light coats with us 

Exiting Waterloo station, we crossed Waterloo Road and made our way to the Waterloo Bus Garage, where we would have breakfast at the Bus Cafe. Now, Waterloo Bus Garage is a significant place as it became the first fully electric bus depot, in Europe, in 2016.

On entering the Bus Cafe we grabbed an available table, before I ordered two Full English breakfasts, with coffee. We didn't have to wait too long before it was served to us. As we ate the rain, that was promised for the afternoon, suddenly released a deluge. 

After we had finished we got speaking with a man at a neighbouring table. It turns out he had just flown in from Canada and, on hearing about the Bus Cafe, had entered to try his first ever Full English breakfast. A mum and daughter, at another table, were also here on their first visit. The rest of the cafe was full of bus drivers on their breaks or preparing to start their shifts.

We left the Bus Cafe and headed down Waterloo Road towards the London Ambulance Service Headquarters, where we looked at the three ambulances preserved on the forecourt, taking photos and reading about the history of the London Ambulance Service.

From here we headed down Pearman Street, crossed Westminster Bridge Road and continued down King Edward Walk, crossed Lambeth Road and cut through Geraldine Mary Harmsworth Park to reach Kennington Road.

We followed Kennington Road until we turned down Chester Way, then Kennington Lane where we turned down White Hart Street. It was here, on the Kennings Estate that we discovered some ARP stretchers being used as railings. Eventually we found ourselves on Kennington Park Road.

From here we rejoined Kennington Road and made our way to 'The Dog House', as we had heard great things about it. Plus, we were getting thirsty. Unfortunately, the pub was late in opening, so we entered 'The Tommyfield', which stands opposite.

We ordered our drinks and grabbed a table, from where we checked out the pub. It turns out that this pub has comedy nights, where various comedy figures have played.

Suitably hydrated we crossed Kennington Lane and entered 'The Dog House'. And what a delight it was. We had entered into what, at one time had been the 'public' bar, where a glass cabinet held taxidermied birds, while teapots hung from the ceiling. A short corridor, covered in small movie posters promoting various horror and science fiction films.

Entering the 'Saloon' bar we discovered more taxidermied animals, while empty bird cages hung from the ceiling. The walls were adorned with random photos, prints, African tribal masks and so much more. A small snug had oriental parasols hanging above it. It is an eclectic place. After looking around as much as we could and having spoken with the landlord, about the building, we took our drinks outside to the beer garden and relaxed.

On leaving 'The Dog House' we passed the house where Charlie Chaplin had lived, from 1889-1978, before crossing Kennington Road and heading down Black Prince Road. We passed 'The Black Prince' pub and Venn Park, before reaching Tyers Street, where we stopped for a drink at 'The Jolly Gardeners'. 

Now, I have been here before and this pub houses a piano that was, supposedly, played by Charlie Chaplin Senior. It is stood in the corner of the pub, in a sorry looking state. There is no plaque or information that states its history, but it is still an intriguing piece to look at. After looking at the piano we sat in the open-air garden and sipped our drinks.

On leaving the pub we continued along Black Prince Road, where I pointed out 'The Queen's Head' pub, which is now a bistro. At one time, in its past, this pub was frequented by Charlie Chaplin as it was run by his Uncle. It was here that he drew inspiration for his "Tramp" character, after noticing a patron, Archibald Binks, who wore large loose fitting trousers and walked with a shuffle.

We continued our walk until we reached the 'Doulton' building, with its ornate office building, on the corner of Lambeth High Street. This is one of my favourite buildings in the area.

Turning up Lambeth High Street we stopped, so that Steve could have his photo taken with some firemen.

 

We then entered 'The Windmill Pub'. This is another pub that I had visited before and was eager to show Steve its wonderful interior and its amazing and entertaining 'If Places Were Faces, London' drawing. And Steve loved it, spending far too much time laughing at the names and faces on it. We then looked around the pub, before sitting to sip our drinks.

We then headed back down Lambeth High Street and back along Black Prince Road until we reached Vauxhall Walk, which we followed, passing the National Crime Agency building, until we reached Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens. 

MillenniuM Pathway, Archbishop's Park

Archbishop's Park, Lambeth, is a wonderful park that sits just to the east of Lambeth Palace Gardens. In fact it was once part of Lambeth Palace Gardens, before Archbishop Archibald Campbell Tait opened over 9 acres of land for use by the poor of the area.

Besides the usual sports fields and courts, there is a wonderful play area, a stunning bench, a community orchard, gardens and much more.

A path that flows through the park has stepping stone plaques, embedded in the tarmac, which chart the history of the area, along with some of the area's more famous names. 

It was unveiled in June 2000 with local residents choosing the subjects of the plaques.

Plaques Timeline

1000 - Lambeth is mainly marshland and open countryside punctuated by Roman roads and a few small settlements

1041 - The Anglo Saxon chronicle records 'This year died Hardicanute at Lambeth, as he stood drinking'.

1087 - Domesday Book lists Lambeth, or Lanchei, as belonging to Countess Goda, sister of Edward the Confessor.

1197 - The Manor of Lambeth is acquired by  the Archbishop of Canterbury. The building of Lambeth Palace begins during this period.

1339 - Edward III gives Kennington to the Black Prince, who builds a palace.

1534 - Sir Thomas More refuses to swear allegiance to the King at Lambeth Palace.

1605 - Guy Fawkes and his fellow conspirators store their gunpowder in a house in  Lambeth.

1634 - Tradescant opens his museum of curiosities to the public.

1661 - John writes of his 'Pretty Contrived

1731 - Birth of Henry Cavendish who weighed the world at Clapham.

1740 - Death of Margaret Finch Queen of the Norwood Gypsies aged 109.

1760 - Dr Johnson stays with the Thrales at Streatham Place.

1770 - Campaign tp abolish slavery is spearheaded by the Clapham Sect.

1771 - Opening of Astley's Amphitheatre in Westminster Bridge Road. The first indoor circus.

1793 - William Blake writes of 'Songs of Experience' while living in Hercules Road.

1802 - A hermit called 'Matthews the Hairyman' lives in a cave in the remote Norwood hills.

1820 - Henry Potter breeds leeches at Streatham to supply the London hospitals.

1826 - Doulton and Watts begin making pottery from premises in Lambeth High Street.

1848 - Mass meeting of Chartists on Kennington Common to present a petition to Parliament

1853 - The Crystal Palace moves from Hyde Park to the Norwood Ridge and the surrounding area develops rapidly.

1880 - Clapham Rovers win the  FA Cup.

1898 - Charlie Chaplin leaves Kennington Road School to join a Clog Dancing Troupe, aged nine.

1902 - WG Grace plays at Streatham Cricket Club, known as one of the most attractive grounds in the country.

1936 - Lupino Lane sings 'The Lambeth Walk' in the show 'Me and My Girl', and it becomes an international dance craze.

1938 - Alfie Howard, Lambeth's Town Crier, attends his first function. He's still working at the age of 87 as this path is made.

1945 - Lambeth Baths receives a direct hit from a V2 rocket. Thirty seven people are killed in Lambeth's worst incident of World War II.

1948 - The Empire Windrush docks in Southampton, the post-war immigration from the West Indies begins and Brixton's black community flourishes.

1951 - The Festival of Britain and the redevelopment of the South Bank.

1981 - The Brixton Riots act as a catalyst for change and regeneration in the inner city.

1990 - Brixton produces its first Prime Minister, John Major.

2000 - Ken Livingstone, Lambeth born and bred, becomes London's first elected Mayor. The London Eye transforms the London skyline.

"Was this Piano played by Charles Chaplin Senior?"

While wandering around Vauxhall I popped into 'The Jolly Gardeners' for a drink. While chatting with the barmaid she told me that the piano, standing forlorn in the corner, was played regularly by Charles Chaplin Senior. 

I have to say that I was a bit disbelieving about this titbit of information, considering the state of the instrument and the lack of a plaque. Still, it was something that I would research later, just to see if there was any truth in it.

Although Charles Chaplin Senior was a music hall entertainer, beginning his career as a mimic, at the age of 24. Soon after he changed his act to that of a 'dramatic and descriptive singer'.

He was never inclined to learn an instrument, and I can find no evidence that he could play the piano.

He toured the United States of America, in 1890, and continued to pull in the crowds until 1897. His last appearance was at the Granville Theatre, Waltham Green, in 1900.

So far there is no information that suggests that this piano was played by him.

But... hang on.

Many of those in the music hall industry became alcoholics, as they were expected to encourage customers to purchase drinks. This was what happened to Charles.

His son, Charlie Spencer Chaplin, wrote in his memoirs that he would often wait outside public houses, where his father, being an alcoholic, could always be found.

Walking with friends: Barbican to Tower Bridge... and beyond

Thursday March 27, 2025.

Having celebrated my birthday, yesterday, I was eager to use my day off to visit London. With my girls at school I roped in my friend, Gary, to join me for the walk.

I took a bus to meet Gary at Rickmansworth station, where we caught a fast Aldgate-bound Metropolitan line train to Barbican. 

Our first stop was a visit to Postman's Park and the G.F. Watt's Memorial to Heroic Self-Sacrifice, which Gary had never seen, before we continued our walk south towards St Paul's Cathedral.

Turning on to Foster Lane I spotted the two open blue doors and, after climbing the three stone steps, we found ourselves in a secluded courtyard. This courtyard, once part of a graveyard, is a public garden that is owned by the church of St Vedast-alias-Foster.

A tree acts as a centrepiece to the slabbed and pebbled space, with various potted plants and shrubs dotted around the space. Two white walls are in juxtaposition with the brick walls, while the covered arcade adds an almost Mediterranean feel to this tranquil space. A framed display of Roman pavement pieces along with various plaques adorn the walls, while a relief sculpture of Canon Mortlock, by Jacob Epstein, is affixed to another wall.

But, I was here to see a rather obscure brick. It is a mud brick, etched with cuneiform writing, that was unearthed in Iraq and is almost 3,000 years old. Strangely, there is no plaque or marker, so I had to do some research on this piece of ancient history, on my return home.

Just metres from this 'secret' garden we saw a London Plane tree, growing in the grounds of the former St Peter West Cheap Church grounds. This platanus x acerifolia tree is said to be the oldest tree in the City of London.

From here we continued our route, by following Cannon Street, to Eastcheap, before turning down Pudding Lane, passing the Monument, before reaching Lower Thames Street, where we visited the Church of St Magnus-the-Martyr.

The Church of St Magnus-the-Martyr is a wonderful Grade I listed church, which was one of the first buildings to be destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666. Although this church dates from 1687, there has been a church here since the 11th century. 

Inside this church there is a model of the Old London Bridge, which was created by David T Aggett, a member of the Metropolitan Police who rose to the rank of Detective Superintendent in the Fraud Squad. He was also a keen model maker and this model of Old London Bridge took almost three years to complete. As he was also a liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Plumbers, he donated the model to St Magnus Church, which is the Plumbers' Company church. As a little joke he placed a Metropolitan Policeman on the bridge, which people can seek to find when admiring the model.

Having found the Policeman and some of the other interesting parts of the model we explored the rest of the building, before leaving the church and continued our walk along Lower Thames Street.

We stopped at Tower Hill Market for a bite to eat, which we ate on the square outside All Hallows by the Tower. The sun, by now, had burnt away the fog and mist, causing the temperature to soar, as we made our way across Tower Bridge to the south bank.

'Charlie Chaplin Mosaic' by Southbank Mosaics

If you were to walk along Lambeth Walk you will discover four small mosaic of Charlie Chaplin, by Southbank Mosaics.

They are set into the wall of Chandler Hall, home of Southbank Mosaics, in two pairs. 

I like that the colours are muted, reflecting how most knew him from his films. I don't think that colourful depictions would have done the subject justice.

They were created by Southbank Mosaics, which is an open artisan studio and training centre, with an aim to make the concrete streets of the neighbourhood more attractive.

As a training centre they teach heritage skills, such as mosaic, and have set up over 250 installations throughout London. These include Blake's Lambeth, which saw 70 of William Blake's works turned into mosaic. These were then used to transform the tunnels, that lead out of Waterloo station, from dull, lifeless places into a welcoming free art gallery.

Walking around this area of the South Bank there are plenty of free mosaic and other public art installations to discover, so it is well worth seeking out what is on offer.

Walking alone: Charing Cross to Vauxhall Bridge... and beyond

Thursday November 7, 2024.

After having rested my leg for a few days I was itching to get back to London. So I decided to plan a route, instead of just winging it, as usual, so that I didn't end up walking too far. It was a great idea, but I knew that it didn't stand a chance when I got to London.

My journey began much like most others: a taxi to Watford Underground station from where I caught a train to Baker Street, changed to a Bakerloo line train to Charing Cross and exited beside Trafalgar Square.

My first stop was at the statue of King Charles I, which stands on a small traffic island at the northern end of Whitehall. Before this statue was erected here the space was occupied by the original Queen Eleanor's Cross, a replica of which now stands outside Charing Cross station. It is from this statue of King Charles I that all mileages from London are measured.

From here I headed down Whitehall and onto Parliament Street, where cleaners were busy cleaning paving slabs and curbstones, while others polished the brass on the Women of World War II memorial. Police cars and vans were in abundance as various services were going on, ahead of the Remembrance Day services on Sunday.

I crossed Bridge Street and continued south along Abingdon Street and onto Millbank, before heading west along Horseferry Road. A left down Marsham Road an then right onto Page Street, followed, I spotted a cafe at the corner, but the queue was halfway down Regency Street. So, I turned south down Regency Street and then turned right onto Vincent Street, in search of a fireplace.

As I was taking a photo of said fireplace one of the residents of the private building, next door, stopped to talk to me about it. He explained that the houses along this side of the street had been heavily damaged by bombs, during World War II. The wall containing the fireplace was still sturdy and acted as a support for the nearby properties, so was left standing.He went on to explain that it wasn't the only remaining feature of the old houses and, ushering me through the security gate, proceeded to show me more of the surviving wall and its features. With plenty of photos taken I bade him farewell, thanking him for his time, and continued on my walk.

Heading south, along Vincent Square, I soon found myself on Vauxhall Bridge Road, which I followed east, still in search of a cafe.