National Submariner's War Memorial

Walking along the Victoria Embankment you will discover many memorials on either side of the road. There are memorials to military servicemen and women, poets, writers, journalists, architects and more. One of the most prominent is the National Submariner's War Memorial.

Designed by the architect Arthur Heron Ryan Tenison and contains a bronze sculpture designed by Frederick Brook Hitch, which was cast by the Parlanti Foundry.

Chief of the Submarine Service, Rear Admiral Sir Hugh Sinclair, unveiled the memorial on December 15, 1922, which was then dedicated by Archdeacon Charles Ingles, the Chaplain of the Fleet.

Walking with family: London Bridge to Bermondsey... and beyond

Sunday April 26, 2026.

A sunny day with occasional clouds 20°C (68°F) with light winds of 6.8 mph (11 km/h).

The weather was promising to make for the perfect for a walk in London, so off we all set. 

A taxi to Watford Underground station, where we boarded a busy train to Finchley Road, with many of the passengers disembarking at Wembley Park for the football at Wembley Stadium. The Jubilee line train, which would take us to London Bridge, was just as busy, this time with people holding placards ready to support family and friends running in the London Marathon.

Our walk was to follow the route of London's first passenger dedicated steam railway, The London and Greenwich Railway. The walk would take us from London's oldest train terminus to London's oldest continually used station.

Alighting from the train at London Bridge we made our way out to Tooley Street, where the streets were busy with people heading for Tower Bridge, to watch the London Marathon. So, we went along Stainer Street, where Erin played a short piece on a Victorian pipe organ, which was installed in 2022.

From here it was on to St Thomas Street. Here the paths and roads were fairly clear, so we began our walk eastwards. Keilyn stopped at 'Greggs' to grab herself an ice-cold drink and a pizza slice, before our walk began in earnest.

St Thomas Street brought us onto Crucifix Lane, below the mainline south out of London Bridge, and onto Druid Street. We followed Druid Street, crossing Tower Bridge Road, which was sealed off as this was part of the Marathon route. Erin, meanwhile, was checking the progress of her school form tutor, Miss Talbot, who was running her second London Marathon. Erin would continue to check her progress throughout the day. Further along Druid Street there was a 'car meet', with all sorts of vehicles in attendance, many with furry wolf masks sitting on many of the bonnets.

Here we headed through one of the railway arches, of which there were 878 when the viaduct was constructed, and walked through Malty Street Market. This is a wonderful little market offering food and drinks from around the world, all at reasonable prices. We meandered our way through the growing crowds and found ourselves on Millstream Road, which we followed, back beneath the railway, back onto Druid Street.

"Which was London's first railway?"

There are two possible answers to this question as there are two companies competing for the title.

Also, by answering this question we can also answer some others along the way. If we can work out which railway came first we can work out which is London's oldest station, too.

The Surrey Iron Railway

The first Act of Parliament for the authorisation of a railway in the London area was granted in 1801, to the Surrey Iron Railway. This railway was built in stages, between 1802 and 1803, from Frying Pan Creek, on the River Thames at Wandsworth, to Pitlake Meadows at Croydon, mostly following the Wandle Valley.

The Surrey Iron Railway used trains of ten wagons, which were horse-drawn along a narrow-gauge, double-tracked line. This line remained in use until 1846, but was only briefly profitable. 

However, all of this railway was within Surrey, parts of which wouldn't become part of London until 1889.

The London and Greenwich Railway

In 1831, following the success of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, which had opened in 1830 as the world's first passenger railway to connect two cities, retired Royal Engineer Colonel George Thomas Landmann and George Walter, an entrepreneur, had the idea for a passenger railway service in London. 

The Surrey Chapel and The Ring

On the northern corner of Blackfriars Road and Union Street stood the Surrey Chapel, built in 1783. It then took on a completely different persona.

The Surrey Chapel was one of the first octagonal churches, in England, and was constructed in 1783, by Reverend Rowland Hill. The chapel had innovative features that included gas lighting, underfloor heating and an organ that used thunder and lightning effects, He chose the octagonal design so that the Devil would not be able to lurk in the corners.

Able to hold 1,200 people, the eccentric Reverend Hill preached here for nearly fifty years, usually to a full congregation, from his pulpit that was situated in the centre of the chapel.

In 1881 the chapel closed and, by 1910, was converted into a boxing arena, by Dick Burge, who was a former British lightweight champion between 1891-1897, and his wife Bella. They replaced the pulpit with a raised, roped-in enclosure, with a circular stage surrounded by seats for spectators.

Dick Burge renamed the building 'The Ring', which stems from early literal ground-drawn fight circles used in the early bare-knuckle boxing days under London Prize Ring Rules.

It would become the first indoor boxing ring for the working classes and would go on to become one of the most popular boxing venues, in London, famous as a proving ground for boxing talent, where well-known prize-fighters took on apprentice fighters. 

London's Crossroads Burials

This 1746 map shows the probable site of the burial of John Duke.

Walking along the streets of London, with its over 2,000 years of history, you can never know exactly what, or who, you are walking on.

Historically, in Britain, individuals who died by suicide, which was considered a crime, executed criminals or other 'outcasts' were often denied burial in consecrated church ground and interred at crossroads, with a stake through their heart. It was believed that the junction of roads would confuse the spirit of the deceased and prevent them from returning to haunt the living. 

The crossroads at which they were  interred were usually the closest to their home or the murder site.

Three high profile crossroads burials.

Although there were many burials at crossroads, records have been lost or destroyed, making a true count of how many impossible. Below are the three that I can find information about.

National Police Memorial

On a small patch of grassland, at the corner of The Mall and Horse Guards Road, stands the National Police Memorial. It was the first memorial to be placed in St James's Park in over a century.

On April 17, 1984, WPC Yvonne Fletcher was fatally wounded by a gunshot, fired by an unknown gunman in the Libyan Embassy, on St James's Square. Her murder sparked an eleven-day siege of the Embassy which, when it ended, resulted in the expulsion of those inside the building and the severing of diplomatic ties between the United Kingdom and Libya. 

Following her murder the film director Michael Winner founded the Police Memorial Trust. At first the Trust erected small monuments at the locations where Police Officers had lost their lives, but they wanted something more.

From the mid 1990s they lobbied and raised funds for a permanent memorial to all officers who had died in the course of their duties. Michael Winner gifted £500,000 to the fund, stating, 

"Memorials to soldiers, sailors and airmen are commonplace, but the police fight a war with no beginning and no end."

'Dr Salter's Daydream' by Diane Gorvin

If you walk along Bermondsey Wall East you will find four statues of a family, enjoying the peaceful serenity of this part of the River Thames. The pieces are collectively known as 'Dr Salter's Daydream'.

First unveiled, in 1991, the original location of the statue was a little further west, at Cherry Garden Pier. However, in 2003, the statues were relocated to their current position besides the Thames Wall, near the Angel pub and opposite the remains of King Edward III's moated manor house. In 2011, the original statue of Dr Salter was stolen, possibly to be sold for scrap, resulting in the statues of Joyce and the cat being removed for safe keeping. 

It wasn't until 2014, following a fund raising campaign by local people, that the statues were reinstated, which included a new statue, that of his wife Ada. The original statue of Dr Salter had him sitting on a bench, legs crossed with his left arm raised as if in greeting. The new sculpture has him sitting on a granite bench, his hands resting on an umbrella, looking towards his daughter, Joyce, who is leaning against the embankment wall.

His wife, Ada, is seen to be walking towards Joyce, while their pet cat sits atop the river wall as if ready to pounce on an unsuspecting avian friend.

It is a rather poignant set of statues showing Dr Alfred Salter in old age, his wife Ada holding a spade and their daughter Joyce, who sadly died aged eight years old.

The Statues

The statues were designed by Diane Gorvin and cast in bronze by Castle Fine Arts Foundry. Although only three statues were designed as part of the original design, Diane created the statue of Ada for the new unveiling. The statue of Ada is the first statue, in London, of a female politician.

So, who were the Salters and what is their connection to the area?

Walking alone: Baker Street to Camden... and beyond

Friday April 10, 2026.

A sunny day with light winds, 16°C (61°F).

The plan had been for Keilyn and myself to go for a walk in London, while Emma visited her mum and dad, in Chesham. However, Keilyn kept changing her mind as to what she wanted to do.

Emma booked a taxi, which we clambered into, which whisked us through the deserted streets to Watford Underground station. Erin was staying home, as she was dog-sitting for Alysha, later in the day.

We boarded the waiting train and were soon trundling through Croxley towards Moor Park station. I was still unsure if Keilyn was going to change her mind, again, and come with me. But, no, Keilyn decided to change to a Chesham-bound train with Emma, while I continued on to Baker Street.

Arriving at Baker Street I exited the station and made my way north, along Baker street, and entered Regent's Park. The Park wasn't too busy, at this time, with there being more joggers and runners than people walking through. I walked along the path, beside the Boating Lake, before joining the Outer Circle. I then passed the London Central Mosque, before passing the gates to Winfield House, which is the official residence of the United States ambassador to the United Kingdom.

I then crossed the road and dropped down onto the Regent's Canal towpath, which I found to be almost deserted, with just the occasional cyclist zipping by. Bluebells lined the grassy banks, carpeting the floor with their unique colour and foliage. At one point there was more traffic on the canal than the towpath. As I passed beneath the 'Blow up' bridge, my friend Dyan messaged to say that she would be heading to London, following a hospital appointment. I explained where I was, where I was heading to and what time I expected to arrive there. Dyan said that she would make her way to King's Cross and then message me to find out where I was. It was a sound plan.

Soon, I could hear the voices of the visitors to London Zoo, across the canal to my right, while I could see more people crossing the bridge to visit Monkey Valley in the Snowdon Aviary. As I looked up I could see some of the Eastern black-and-white colobus monkeys, sitting on perches.

The White Chapel

The original White Chapel, which gave its name to the area, was the first church to stand on what is now Altab Ali Park. Built in 1250 it was a simple, lime washed, stone rubble chapel that remained standing until 1286.

In 1329, the chapel was rebuilt and named St Mary Matfelon. Over the next 500 years the church was enlarged, encompassed different styles and was rebuilt at least three more times. During this period it is estimated that several thousand burials took place in the churchyard, including Richard Brandon who is believed to have been the executioner of King Charles I.

Walking with Erin: Royal Air Force Museum, Hendon... and beyond

Tuesday April 7, 2026.

Sunny with clear skies 19°C (66°F).

Recently I had been going through some old photographs and realised that we hadn't visited the Royal Air Force Museum, Hendon, since July 2016. That was almost 10 years ago! Back then Erin was 5 and Keilyn was 3.

So, the three of us decided to revisit during the Easter holidays. Keilyn, all of a sudden, decided that she would rather stay home and play in the sun, while Erin was still up for a day out.

We took a taxi to Watford Town centre and made our way down the High Street, where we caught a 142 bus to Edgware. One of the great things about London Transport is that children travel for free and, providing you change to another bus, or tram, within an hour of boarding, you don't get charged a second time. This is perfect for those on a budget.

Arriving at Edgware we located as 'Greggs', where food and drinks were purchased, before we headed to a bus stop to catch the 303 bus to the museum. The 303 bus dropped us directly outside the museum, which, since our last visit, had gone through a major refurbishment with new hangars and displays. We made our way through the gate, stopping to take a photo of the Supermarine Spitfire Mk Ix gate guard, before entering Hangar 1, to begin our exploration. 

Hangar 1, RAF Stories and First to the Future

Hangar 1 has two exhibitions. The first is 'RAF Stories' and the second is 'First to the Future'. Here we learnt the story of the first 100 years of the Royal Air Force, from its inception in 1918 through to the present. Aircraft and vehicles from every era were on display, along with models, ejector seats and interactive displays.

'Cantonal Tree' and 'Glockenspiel Clock', Swiss Court

The Glockenspiel Clock, Swiss Court.

If you approach Leicester Square, from the west, you will find yourself on Swiss Court. This small thoroughfare, less than 40 metres (130 feet) in length, was once home to the Swiss Centre.

The Swiss Centre, built between 1963 and 1966, was a 14-storey building that was a showcase for Switzerland and its products. The centre featured a commercial and trade centre.This included a branch of a Swiss bank and a Swissair ticket office tourist office. There was also a chocolate and souvenir shop, a cafe and, in its basement, several Swiss-themed restaurants.

The rest of the building was taken up with offices, residential spaces, a penthouse and a viewing gallery.

Walking with Keilyn: Brixton to West Norwood... and beyond

Saturday April 4, 2026.

Cloudy with sunny spells and light winds, 13°C (55°F).

Keilyn and I decided that we needed to complete our mission to visit all of the 'Magnificent Eight' garden cemeteries, of which six were already completed. As such it was a case of visiting south London, to explore Nunhead and West Norwood cemeteries.

We were up early, dressed and boarding a train, at Watford underground station, by 08:50, heading to Finchley Road. From here we changed to a Jubilee line train to Green Park and, from there, a Victoria line train to Brixton.

My original intention had been to take a bus to Norwood, but Keilyn decided that, as it was pretty much a straight road, we should walk. So, off we set. We headed south along Effra Road and onto Tulse Hill where we decided to enter Brockwell Park, rather than follow the streets to our destination.

A series of three ponds, linked by trickling water courses, were immediately to our right, with an adventure playground to our right. Ahead of us cricket pitches, tennis courts and community greenhouses stretched out before us. Deciding to continue south we explored the ponds before we visited the Walled Garden. 

The Walled Garden was a tranquil place filled with trees, shrubs, herbs, flowers, a pond, and more. At its entrance was, quite possibly, the smallest Model Village that I have ever seen. It consists of around half-a-dozen houses, which were designed by Edgar Wilson, in 1943. The original village was a lot bigger, but the village was relocated to Vauxhall Park in the 1950s.

Continuing onward we made up to the top of the park, near Brockwell Hall, where we stopped to look north at the London skyline, some four-and-a-half miles (seven kilometres) away. We crested the hill and walked down the grass parkland towards the gate at Norwood Road. Towards the bottom of the grassland a young mother and her daughter, all of about three years old, launched a rubber band-propelled glider, that danced through the air, before getting caught in the branches of a tree. 

St Peter's Church, London Docks

The altar and stained-glass windows.

St Peter's Church, London Docks, is a wonderful hidden gem.

The Wapping Lane entrance.

Although it is clearly visible from Raines Mansions Park and Raine Street, its main entrance is situated on Wapping Lane. It is this entrance, behind a double-arched covered forecourt, that brings you to the courtyard from where you access the church. 

The tiled entranceway, with steps leading up to residential properties, that brings you to the church courtyard and entrance is wonderful to explore in itself. 

Even then the simple facade of the church belies what you will discover inside. From this elevation the church doesn't seem too impressive, but how wrong that assumption is.

The tiled entrance to the church courtyard.

On entering St Peter's, London Docks, you find yourself in a far bigger church than the small west facing entrance implies. The high roof, with its exposed beams, gives a real sense of space, with stained-glass windows taking up the upper portion of the east wall.

Going through an arched entrance, to the right, is the baptismal font in the baptistry. This stands at the end of the south aisle, the walls of which are adorned with various images of the 'Stations of the Cross'. A small doorway leads you into the small 'Shrine of Our Lady Walsingham'. This space has three small stained-glass windows and a half dozen chairs, set out before an altar.