The River Thames: London's Silent Witness

I have been flowing since before this island had a name, a silver ribbon winding through the shifting clay, birthed from the quiet springs of the Cotswolds and pulled relentlessly toward the grey embrace of the North Sea.

Humans have called me many names, but it is Thames that they now call me. They think they mastered me. They built their stone walls to hem me in, threw their iron bridges across my back like saddles, and dug deep into my belly to hide their trains. But I remember when I was wild. I remember when the woolly mammoth stepped heavily into my shallows to drink, and when the first frightened tribesmen built wooden huts on my marshy banks, looking at my currents with a mixture of reverence and fear.

I am a river of secrets, the great liquid spine of history.

For centuries, I have been London’s silent accomplice. I watched the Romans plant their wooden pilings into my mud, bringing the noise of a distant empire to my quiet shores. I carried the grand, gilded barges of Tudor kings and queens, listening to the whispered court gossip that drifted across my waters. I felt the heat and tasted the falling ash of the Great Fire in 1666, my surface reflecting a sky turned blood-red while terrified citizens threw their treasured possessions into my depths for safekeeping.

London's Postboxes

A replica 'Penfold' type postbox, beside Tower Bridge.

Normally overlooked because of how common they are on the streets of the United Kingdom, the humble postbox can tell you a lot about an area. Each postbox also has a Royal cypher, which helps denote its age. Although, occasionally, postboxes are created without a cypher. These are called 'anonymous' postboxes.

So, let us look at the evolution of the British Postbox.

Like so many other iconic things the Postbox was created in the Victorian era, with the first postbox being installed on Guernsey, in the Channel Islands, in 1852.

In 1853, the first postbox, on the mainland, was installed in Carlisle.

London's first postboxes were installed in 1855.

During the 19th century there was no standard to postboxes, with those in the east and west being markedly different from those in the north and Ireland. The aperture, for the letter, was often vertical, rather than the now standard horizontal, and they were all of different shapes and sizes. One is believed to have been 2.4 metres (7.8 feet), tall. The only constant was that they were made off cast-iron.

It wasn't until 1857 that the Post Office launched a competition to standardise the shape and size of the postbox. Unbelievably, one of the original designs was designed with no aperture for the letters. This was remedied and the 'London Ornate Box' came into use, between 1857-1859. It was green with gold trim and had an enamel compass on its top. In fact, all postboxes were green, si that they blended with the landscape. It wasn't until 1884 that they would be painted the now familiar red.

A 'Wall Box' postbox.

In 1857 the 'Wall Box' was introduced as an economy measure, where space was a premium. These were usually in rural areas.

The 'First National Standard' postbox was unveiled in 1859. It was cylindrical, with a horizontal aperture beneath a hexagonal hood and was made from cast-iron.

A replica 'Penfold' type postbox, outside the General Post Office building.

The architect John Wornham Penfold designed a hexagonal model, in 1866, which would adopt his name and become known as the 'Penfold' postbox. These were cast-iron and stayed in use from 1866 till 1879. There were thirteen variations of this postbox, that were produced. Many of these postboxes, that you see today, are replicas of the originals and were introduced to historic places, such as Tower Bridge.

A Victorian 'anonymous' postbox, as it has no cypher.

In 1879, the 'Victorian Type A' and its smaller 'Victorian Type B' were introduced. It is this cylindrical design, with its circular convex top, that is still the most common style of postbox.

In 1896, the first 'Lamp Box' was installed, on an experimental basis. Much like the 'Wall Box', these were used where pavements were small, such as in rural areas.

In 1899, the first 'Type C' oval-shaped postboxes were introduced in London. These large, double-aperture pillar boxes were designed to increase capacity and pre-sort mail into 'London' and 'Country' destinations.

A postbox with a King Edward VII cypher.

In 1930, some 'Victorian Type B' postboxes were painted blue, to signify the 'Air Mail' service being offered. An 'Air Mail' sign was affixed to the top and the door showed both collection times and air mail charges.

Family trip to London: Day 1, Southwark

Wise words.

Thursday October 30, 2025.

Having taken a few days off work, Emma and I took Keilyn to London, while Erin was staying with friends.

We set off, via taxi, to Watford Metropolitan station to board a train to Finchley Road and from there a Jubilee line train to Waterloo.

On leaving Waterloo station we crossed Waterloo Road and headed for the Bus Cafe, for a spot of lunch. Full English breakfasts were ordered and devoured, washed down with coffee and tea.

With our bellies full we left the bus garage and headed along The Cut and onto Union Street. We passed the Embassy Tea House and the London Fire Brigade Headquarters, before crossing Southwark Bridge Road. We then passed the old Tram shelter, which is now a gourmet burger restaurant, and the Mint & Gospel Lighthouse Mission building, before turning up Redcross Way beside Crossbones Graveyard.

Redcross Way brought us to Dirty Lane and the arches beneath the mainline railway of Cannon Street station. This eventually brought us to Clink Street. Keilyn's face lit up when she discovered that we were going into the Clink Prison Museum, a place she had wanted to visit for ages.

"The Clink": the prison that gave its name to all others.

We descended the stairs, paying our dues at the booth, before entering the site of the original Clink Prison. The prison that gave its name to all others.

Information boards told the history of the prison from its earliest inception, in 1144, to its closure in 1780. Manacles, locks, swords, torture implements, chastity belts and much more were on display, many of which could be handled, allowing you to feel the weight of the chains, giving a sense of how it would feel to be manacled for days on end.

There was also information on Crossbones Graveyard and the Winchester Geese, the Liberty of the Clink, the Bishop of Winchester and a brief mention of the other five prisons that were in Southwark.

"Off with his head!"

As we walked through the Clink Keilyn was keeping an eye out for the 'ghosts' that had been hidden around the museum. These 'ghosts' were small puppets and, should you find all ten, you received a sweet on leaving the gift shop. Of course, Keilyn spotted all ten and received her lollipop as we left the prison.

We continued along Clink Street and joined the throng of tourists, passing the Golden Hinde and turned onto Cathedral Street and then Montague Close, where we sat in Minerva Square to rest our legs and have a drink. We then continued along Montague Close and joined Tooley Street, before turning along St Olaf Stairs and joining The Queen's Walk along the River Thames. Countless wooden sheds were in various stages of being built and painted, ready for the Christmas season, while the old City Hall is in the middle of a major refurbishment, with much of its glass having been removed.

A Victorian era postbox.

We looked at the Royal Mail Penfold Postbox, a relic of the Victorian era, before we turned south along Duchess Walk to Queen Elizabeth Street. After buying an ice cream, for Keilyn, and some more refreshments and snacks, we walked along Tower Bridge Road and headed for our hotel... Premier Inn London Tower Bridge Hotel.

The view from our hotel room.

After checking in, Keilyn grabbed the room key and took the lift to the top floor, all the while we were hoping for a room with a view. And we were not disappointed. We could just make out the top of the London Eye and half of the dome of St Paul's Cathedral, but we had a clear view of The Shard, which was perfect.

'Timepiece Sundial' by Wendy Ann Taylor

The sundial is one of man's oldest astronomical instruments.

In this particular form, known as an Equinoctial Sundial, the dial is in the same plane as the Earth's equator and the gnomon, or rod, is parallel to the axis of the Earth pointing true north.

The shadow of the gnomon moving across the dial indicates the time. In summer the shadow falls on the face of the dial, in winter on the inner edge.

Walking with Emma: 13th anniversary weekend

Tower Bridge and The Shard at sunset.

Friday March 7, 2025.

As Monday 10th would be the 13th anniversary of our wedding, Emma had booked us a stay at the Tower Hotel, as a present for me.

With our girls at school, then off to my mum's for the night, Emma and I set off.

Uber to Watford Metropolitan station, a train to Finchley Road, then a Jubilee line train to London Bridge.

As we made our way along Tooley Street, heading to More London Place, I was surprised at how quiet it was, considering the temperature was at 18°C (64.4°F, for my continental friends).

His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London.

Meandering around The Scoop and the old City Hall building, I stopped to take some photos of the City of London and His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, before we passed under Tower Bridge, to Shad Thames, where we stopped for a coffee at Starbucks.

The Tower Hotel.

Sitting beside The Vault 1894 beer garden, we sipped our coffees and looked across the River Thames towards the Tower Hotel, where we would be spending the night. Usually we are more than happy to stay at Premier Inn, as their beds are incredibly comfortable and their breakfasts are equally as good. But, as it was a special occasion, plus the fact that I had always wanted to stay there, ever since I first saw it on TV and film, Emma had secretly booked it. Plus, according to all of their Social Media releases, it offered unparalleled views of Tower Bridge... unless your room was at the back. In which case you would probably have a great view of St Katharine Docks and Marina, which is still pretty cool.

With our beverages finished, we climbed the well-worn stairs to bridge level and crossed Tower Bridge.

Once on the north bank we made our way down the stairs and sat beside David Wynne's 'Girl with a Dolphin' sculpture, before heading into the Tower Hotel reception.

A Starbucks in the Tower Hotel lobby.

The brutalist style exterior architecture, of this 1973 building, was a complete juxtaposition with the shiny interior, with its marbled columns and mirrors, making the lobby seem larger and grander than expected.

There were plenty of people working at reception, so we didn't have to wait to check in. The receptionist, named Padam, was polite and professional and seemed genuinely interested in why we had booked this hotel, congratulating us on our anniversary, asking what our plans for the weekend were and generally made us feel welcomed. After taking our payment, and handing us our key, he promised us that our room had one of the best views and then gestured us towards a bank of four lifts.

There is nothing brutalist about the interior of the Tower Hotel.

The lift was silent and its movement was barely susceptible as it raised us to the fifth floor. On exiting the lift, we turned right and right again, following the corridor, before a sign told us that our room was down the corridor to our left. Onward we went until we reached our room. My mental GPS had been calculating our location, within the hotel, and I knew that, with the room on our left, we were in for a decent view. I was not wrong. 

A standard Tower Hotel room.

On entering the room our bathroom was to our left, with three doors, to our right, hiding the wardrobes. The main room was spacious, with a bed to our left and, on our right, a desk (hiding a small fridge containing complimentary drinks), and TV. Bedside tables, 3D art, paintings and an arm chair completed the room. Directly in front of us, the window spanned the width of the room. And the view?

The view from the fifth floor.

The view was everything that we had hoped for. Tower Bridge and The Shard were our view, while in the distance Crystal Palace Tower could be seen on the horizon.

After settling in, refreshing ourselves and changing, we made our way downstairs into the warm spring evening. By now the sun had set (or, rather, the Earth was completing another rotation, hiding the sun from our view) as we made our way around St Katharine Docks, with its still waters and reflected lights. 'Gloriana', the Queen's Rowbarge, was moored in the marina, along with yachts, barges and boats of varying size and style.

Following the path we made our way to Zizzi, via Coronarium Bridge, where we would be dining. Our plan had been to eat at the Dickens Inn, but Emma had read the recent reviews and wasn't that impressed, so we had booked Zizzi, instead.

The staff, our server was named Charlotte, the atmosphere, the food... was perfect. 

After settling the bill Emma and I went for another walk around the Docks and Marina, with a slight diversion, as Telford's retracting footbridge is under repair. Although the temperature had dropped, slightly, it was still warm, as we walked along the River Thames, listening to the various parties going on some boats, while families walked along, taking photos of Tower Bridge in all of its night time glory.

With time getting on we headed back to the hotel and returned to our room, to settle in for the night. 

Tower Hotel, St Katharine's Way

March 7-8, 2025.

I have walked by this hotel on many occasions and I have seen it in many films and TV series, but I have never been inside.

Today, that changed as Emma and I were booked in for the evening, as part of our wedding anniversary. 

The brutalist concrete style, of the exterior, is not repeated internally. Bright tiles and mirrors bring a modern and contemporary feel. 

Reception was fully staffed, so we didn't have to wait long to be checked in. Padam, who checked us in, assured us that he had given us a great room with an even better view. We would see.

The lift (elevator) was silent, smooth and spacious, with mirrored walls and ceiling and tiled floor, which made it seem even bigger. A small ashtray, built into one of the elevator panels, showed the age of the building.

Arriving on the fifth floor we turned right and then, a bit further on, turned left, finally arriving at 561. Our room was simply decorated and had everything now expected of a hotel: bed, smart TV, kettle, iron, Nespresso machine, air conditioning, desk, wardrobes, underfloor heating, etc.. 

Each item of furniture had a glass top, to protect it from damage. There were switches for various lights and heating and air conditioning.

The bed was comfortable and spacious, with plenty of pillows, too.

As promised, by Padam, the view was stunning and exactly what you would hope for when staying at this hotel.

Our view was directly south, looking down on the River Thames, with Tower Bridge and The Shard to our right. Perfect.

Breakfast, on Saturday morning, had everything on offer. There were cereals, pastries, breads, full English, tea and coffee machines and various juices and iced water. We were fortunate enough to be sat by a window, overlooking St Katharine Docks, rather than in the centre of the room.

As luck would have it, Tower Bridge opened for a maintenance check on Saturday morning, for which we had an excellent view.

Checking out was easy, as we simply handed our wood-effect keys in at reception.

The staff and facilities were excellent and I would definitely stay here again.

Oh, and one last thing... A big "thank you" to my wife for booking the hotel.

A Chimney disguised as a Lamppost, Tower Bridge

Tower Bridge is used by over 40,000 people and nearly 21,000 vehicles everyday. But, I wonder how many people have spotted this little oddity on its north approach.

At first glance it appears to be one of the many lampposts that line the approach to the bridge, but without its lamp. 

But it isn't. 

It is, in fact, a chimney.

But why is the chimney here, on the northern approach road? 

To find out more we need to travel back to 1894, when the bridge opened.

Walking with family: Westminster to Lambeth... and beyond

Tuesday December 10, 2024.

With a week off from work, and my girls being in school, I decided on a trip to London, inviting my mum and my uncle Martin along. Unfortunately my um couldn't make it, so it was just Martina and I that made the trip.

Martin drove us to Croxley station, where we caught a Metropolitan line train to Finchley Road, where we changed to a Jubilee line train to complete our journey to Westminster station.

On exiting the station we headed across Westminster Bridge, dodging the hordes of tourists that often congregate here as they jostle to get their perfect photo of the Elizabeth Tower that houses Big Ben. Crossing to the east side of the bridge we headed down the steps, beside St Thomas' Hospital and the Covid Memorial Wall, heading along the Albert Embankment to our first stop of the day... the Garden Museum.

The Garden Museum is situated at the western end of Lambeth Road, next to Lambeth Palace, and is housed within the old St Mary-at-Lambeth church. The church closed in 1972 and was due foe demolition, but was saved, reopening in 1977 as the world's first Gardening Museum.

After a brief look around the small garden, we entered the church and began looking at the building and its exhibits. After a quick look around we purchased tickets and made our way up the 131 steps of the tower, to check out the view.

And what a view it was. Being beside the River Thames the view allowed for views along the river towards Nine Elms and Battersea Power Station. The Palace of Westminster and Lambeth Palace were great from this vantage point, which then allowed you to gaze across to the City of London, The Shard and Canary Wharf.

Suitably impressed with the view we made our way back down the tower and went off to the Garden Museum cafe to grab a coffee. Once we were refreshed, and suitably warmed up from being outside in the wind, we continued our tour of the museum. 

William Bligh's tomb and the Tradescant family tomb were situated in a small garden area, with its plant nursery and other graves. We visited the Ark gallery and the other various rooms and galleries. The shop had everything horticultural, but there were no books or leaflets on the history of the church itself. Fortunately, one of the volunteers at the shop informed us about a 'magic pink folder', held at the main reception, which contained lots of information. 

So, making our way to the main reception, we asked to view this 'magic pink folder'. It was stuffed with pages about the building, its history, various graves, snippets of information all gleaned from various sources. The lady at reception was more than happy for us to take photos of various pages, which we did. After reading what we wanted we returned the 'magic pink folder' to reception, thanked the lady and made our way outside, ready to continue our walk.

We headed down Lambeth Road, passing the Novotel Hotel, which was once Norfolk House, home of the Howard family. This hotel is next to the Bell Building, which stands on the site of the Bell Inn, which was built in 1560.

'Girl with a Dolphin' by David Wynne

On the north bank of the River Thames, just east of Tower Bridge, there is a wonderful fountain of a girl swimming with a dolphin.

It is a stunning sculpture that has stood on this spot since 1973 and is passed by millions of visitors, each year. Because of its location, beside Tower Bridge, it offers some great photo opportunities.

This bronze sculpture is the work of David Wynne, who, throughout his career, focussed much of his work on animals. His most famous piece is 'Guy the Gorilla' in Crystal Palace Park.

David Wynne studied zoology at Cambridge University, but this just led him to become a sculptor.

In order to get this statue correct, David swam with a dolphin for hours, feeling that this more practical approach would make the sculpture more realistic.

His approach worked, as this bronze sculpture seems to have caught a moment in time. The young girl, with her hair trailing behind her, is swimming down, while the dolphin rises to meet her,

Because this is a bronze sculpture, David Wynne had to use double cantilevers to ensure that the weight of the bronze could be held, thereby ensuring 'Girl with a dolphin' would continue to swim, for years to come.

'Girl with a dolphin' has a twin. On Cheyne way, Chelsea, there is a similar statue named 'Boy with a dolphin'. It depicts a boy, modelled on David's son, Roly, holding on to the dolphin's fin as they swim through the water. 

This sculpture was unveiled in 1974..

Tragically, Roly took his own life in 1999, so his father dedicated the statue to Roly.

David Wynne died in 2014.

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to St Katharine Docks... and beyond

St Katharine Docks and Marina.

Saturday May 25, 2024. 

Another Saturday and another walk through London.

Keilyn and I met up with my friend Steve at Watford Underground station and boarded our train to Baker Street. Arriving at Croxley station we were joined by my mum and uncle Martin.

We alighted at Finchley Road and waited the six minutes for an Aldgate bound train to continue our journey.

Arriving at Aldgate station we headed outside and, after crossing Aldgate High Street, grabbed a coffee from 'Copper Coffee', on the corner of Mansell Street. We then continued along Mansell Street on to St Katharine's Way and our destination of St Katharine Docks.

'Excelsior'.

With the sun in an almost cloudless sky it was the perfect conditions to wander around the Marina with its yachts, barges and other vessels.

Is that a Koi?

Having explored the marina and after spotting what looked like Koi in the clear waters, we made our way to the Docks and the chance to explore the 'Dunkirk Little Ships' that had arrived ahead of the anniversary of 'Operation Dynamo', which took place between May 26 and June 4, 1940.

Dunkirk Little Ships.

These historic ships had been part of an armada that travelled from Ramsgate to Dunkirk to aid in the rescue of over 336,000 British and French soldiers. Many of these boats made multiple trips.

We read the stories of the ships, listened to crew members telling stories and got up close to these historic vessels.

A different perspective.

With noon fast approaching we went our separate ways, with mum and Martin staying around the St Katharine Docks area, while Keilyn, Steve and I crossed Tower Bridge and headed along the Thames Path towards Rotherhithe.

Slabs, Markers & Covers

Although there is much to see when it comes to London's architecture, with her old buildings juxtaposed with new, it is always worth looking at what is below your feet.

Just as plaques of various styles adorn the walls around this great city, there are more to be found on the pavements, curbs and alleyways.

Coal hole cover.

Not only are there numerous styles of Coal Hole Covers, to be found, but there are still places where you can find Wooden Paving on London's streets.

Wooden paving.

Sometimes the slabs are not concrete, wood or marble, but metal, often used as steps or utility covers.

Metal steps plaque.

Utility hole cover, Greenwich. 

Then there are the newer slabs, added to keep the history of an area alive.

The Merchant Line, London Bridge City.

Red Lion Court.

St Dunstans Court.