'Thames Made Modern' by Artbash

'Thames Made Modern' is an artwork and poem project, at Globe View, on the north bank of the River Thames.

It is a multi-generational project, by ARTBASH, alongside the architects Rivington Street Studio and in collaboration with the lighting designers FPOV.

The artwork was developed following a series of workshops with several different communities.

The artwork is a layered montage. The backgrounds were painted by the children of Aldgate Primary School, who were inspired by mudlarking activities that they had participated in. 

The buildings were then added by students from Haggerston Community School, inspired by the views at Globe View.

It was a collaborative effort, by artists, residents and the congregation of St James Garlickhythe, that added the wildlife to the artwork. The congregation also helped with the poem.

The poem uses The Doves Type typeface. This typeface was believed lost, in 1916, when a disgruntled printer, TJ Cobden-Sanderson, threw his famous typeface into the River Thames, to spite his business partner. However, in 2014, the original metal type was salvaged from the River Thames by divers and mudlarks. With the type now in hand, Robert Green, a graphic designer, set about digitally reconstructing it and so was able to use it here.

In all there are six paintings, each with its own piece of poetry, which can be found below.

Mighty heart, mighty London
Spanning. Timeless
Ethelred's Hythe to Queenhithe
Welcoming Charles II's landing
Southwark Bridge in steel stealing Dicken's heart
Riverside House looking buoyant
Glorious views from Globe View
Blues, greens, aquamarines & a glimpse of grey

European Eels swarming and waving
With shoals of Bream chasing & biting
The ebb, the flow, the perpetual flux
Thames made modern

Walking with Keilyn: Highgate to Finsbury Park... and beyond

Sunday October 26, 2025.

It was a spur of the moment idea to head to London, for a walk.

So, after a decent breakfast Keilyn and I got a taxi to Watford Underground station and boarded a Baker Street-bound train. We alighted at Finchley Road and waited for 3-minutes for an Aldgate-bound train, which we took to King's Cross St Pancras. From here we took the Northern line to Highgate.

On leaving Highgate station we headed south, along Archway Road, until we reached Holmesdale Road. This brought us to the start, or end, of the Parkland Walk (south). Parkland Walk is split into two sections, north and south. The north walk runs from Cranley Gardens to Muswell Hill 0.4 miles (750m), while the south walk stretches from Highgate to Finsbury Park 1.8 miles (3 km). In total it stretches for 3.1 miles (5 km), along with the about a 1-mile (1.3-1.8 km) gap between the two sections. The Parkland Walk is also London's longest linear nature reserve.

The first point of interest was the now sealed tunnels that run beneath Highgate, through which the train line once ran. These tunnels are now home to three species of bats: Brown Long Eared Bat, Common Pipistrelle Bat and the Daubenton's Bat.

From here we began our walk, westward, following the route of the old train line towards Finsbury Park. The next point of interest, that Keilyn spotted first, was a bench with a forlorn looking toy rabbit sitting on it, beside a tree with various charms and named disks hanging from it. This is the 'Baby Loss Tree', and was quite emotional to stand beneath.

We then continued our walk, passing old railway infrastructure, that has been reclaimed by nature, while keeping our eyes peeled for wildlife. It was a busy route, with dogwalkers, joggers and families all making the most of the unseasonably warm temperature.

We crossed railway bridges, high above the roads, looking out across London at the various landmarks that were visible. Eventually we reached the site of the former Crouch End railway station. Unlike the rest of the stations along the route, the platforms had been left for people to walk along. 

An A-board, on one of the platforms, advertised coffee, so up the steps we clambered and entered 'Merro'. This wonderful little coffee shop is housed in what is left of the old station house and had old photographs framed on the wall.

Pickering Place, St James's

The entrance to Pickering Place.

London has roughly 600 public squares, spread throughout the city. The largest of these is Lincoln's Inn Fields, Holborn, at 300,000 square feet. This is the largest public square both in London and the United Kingdom.

The smallest public square is Pickering Place, St James's, at roughly 500 square feet. It is also the smallest square in Great Britain. For its small size it is full of history.

The square was originally known as Stroud's Court. In 1698, the Widow Bourne, whose first name has been lost to time, opened a grocer's shop at No. 3 St James's Street, with her two daughters. This was the same year that St James's Palace became the official residence of the monarch. This grocer's shop would go on to become 'Berry Brothers & Rudd', which is still run by descendants of the same family, to this day.

The Widow's daughter, Elizabeth, married William Pickering and the two carried on the mother's business. They also supplied coffee to the fashionable Coffee Houses of St James's. 'Berry Brothers & Rudd' still trades under the sign of the coffee mill, as they have done for centuries. 

Georgian architecture.

In 1731, William Pickering set about rebuilding Stroud's Court, which was originally a garden, with new, taller houses. after which the square was renamed Pickering Court. Their business, at No. 3, remains as it was from when it first opened.

As Pickering Court was 'off the beaten path' it became known for its bear baiting, gambling dens and prostitution. The square was also used as a duelling ground. It is said that the Prince Regent's close friend, Beau Brummell, fought a duel here, in the nineteenth century. Some claim that London's last duel took place here, but this is incorrect. London's last duel took place in a small field near Camden Road in Camden Town.

The Division Bells of Westminster

For Whom The Bells Toll.

If you are ever enjoying a drink in a pub near the Palace of Westminster, such as The Marquis of Granby, The Red Lion, St Stephen's Tavern or the Westminster Arms, among others, and you hear a shrill, insistent ringing that isn't the fire alarm... don't panic. That distinctive, urgent chime is the sound of democracy in action: The Parliamentary Division Bell.

It's one of the most charmingly archaic, yet fundamentally critical, pieces of infrastructure in the UK's political landscape. Far from being a mere novelty, the Division Bell is the key to how votes are cast in the House of Commons and the House of Lords, dictating the pace of political life in Westminster.

In the UK Parliament, a formal vote is known as a 'Division' because members literally divide into two opposing lobbies to be counted. 

The Speaker Puts the Question: A debate then ensues and, when it ends, the Speaker of the House of Commons asks for "Ayes" (in favour) and "Noes" (against) to shout for their support. If the result isn't clear, or a Member challenges the Speaker's judgement, the Speaker announces, "Division, clear the lobby!" or, "Clear the Bar!" in the Lords. This is the moment the Division Bell springs to life.

Walking with Erin: British Film Institute to Crossbones Graveyard... and beyond

A 'Small Car Big City' Mini Cooper.

Saturday October 18, 2025.

It had been a while since Erin and I had taken a trip to London, so we needed to plan something. Erin found out about 'A Wicked Celebration' taking place at the British Film Institute, on the Southbank, so we decided that that would be our starting point.

We left home and made the short walk to Watford Metropolitan station and boarded a train for Baker Street. We changed at Finchley Road, where we boarded a Jubilee line train to Waterloo. 

Paddington Bear mural.

As we had plenty of time before the exhibition opened, we took a slow walk from Waterloo station, along Concert Hall Approach, and passed a great mural to Paddington Bear on the way. We then  explored the various external floors of the Southbank Centre. I have walked along the Southbank before, but never visited the various raised plazas that make up the Southbank Centre.

Water feature sculptures at the Southbank Centre.

The views from these raised walkways offered nice views of the River Thames, while different sculptures were dotted around, too.

Once we had seen enough we made our way down to street level and Theatre Road. For an exhibition about the phenomenon that is 'Wicked', there were no advertising signs or posters to say that it was on, which was a surprise. 

Vickers (Charlize Theron) EVA Suit, from Prometheus (2012).

We made our way into the BFI, via the Cinema and Box Office entrance, and climbed the stairs and joined a small queue of about twenty people.

Ozian coins.

After about ten minutes we were climbing the stairs to the Mezzanine Gallery and exploring 'A Wicked celebration'. Large panels, containing photographs and snippets of information, lined the wall, detailing the behind-the-scenes making of the movie. 

Erin with Glinda's costume.

Then there were the four small glass cabinets that held replica props, such as Ozian coins and Glinda's wand. At the end of the gallery were Elphaba and Glinda's dresses, protected behind glass, that allowed people to see the intricacy of their design.

Once we had seen everything, which didn't take long, we headed outside and sat and ate our lunch by the National Theatre.

Once we had eaten we decided to head towards London Bridge, by following The Queen's Walk. As Erin doesn't enjoy walking, as much as Keilyn, I thought that it would be easier if we walked towards underground stations, should she suddenly tire. Wooden huts, selling their wares, were already open and decorated for Christmas. 

Blackfriars Station commemorative plaque.

We passed Gabriel's Wharf, Thames Beach, Oxo Wharf and Sea Containers House, before we turned down Marigold Avenue onto Upper Ground. We then turned south, onto Blackfriars Road, passing the original entrance to Blackfriars station, heading to The Cut, where we stopped at a Tesco Express for some more snacks.

The Mint & Gospel Lighthouse Mission Shaftesbury Society.

From here we headed along Union Street, passing the London Fire Brigade Headquarters, an original tram shelter, which is now a 'Heard' burger restaurant, that looks rather nice. We then passed the old Ragged School building and, opposite, discovered that Crossbones Graveyard and Garden of Remembrance was open. So, we went in. 

La Catrina, donated by the Mexican Ambassador to the United Kingdom.

Besides a few volunteers, and a handful of other visitors, the place was remarkably empty. While Erin picked up an information booklet I made a donation and, soon, we were exploring this historic place. As we walked slowly around I told Erin about its history.

'Liberties of the Tower' and Tower Liberties Boundary Markers

Liberties of the Tower plaque.

At various distances from the walls of the Tower of London, there were thirty-one Liberty Markers, of which twenty-two can still be found (I believe). These markers denoted the outer limits of the 'Liberties of the Tower'.

The Tower Liberties area was an administrative and defensive zone set up around the Tower of London, separating it from the City of London.

This 'Liberties of the Tower' area was to be kept free of buildings, so that those in the Tower of London could see any approaching forces, and was set up after 1200.

Marker Number 23, Tower Hill Garden.

The boundary points were placed in an arc around the Tower of London, at a distance of an arrow's flight from its walls.

The Tower of London ran its own courthouse and police force and, in 1687, the people, living within the Liberties, were granted certain special privileges. These included being able to claim any beast that fell from London Bridge and freedom from the jurisdiction of the City of London.

'A Wicked Celebration' at BFI Southbank Mezzanine Gallery

Saturday October 18, 2025.

Erin, and to a lesser extent Keilyn, have a fascination with 'Wicked'. Both have seen the movie, while Erin has seen the 'Wicked: The Untold Story of the Witches of Oz', or, more simply, 'Wicked the Musical', at the Apollo Victoria Theatre.

So, Erin was exceedingly excited when she discovered that there was a free exhibition of behind-the-scenes photography, costumes and replica props from the forthcoming movie 'Wicked: For Good', being held in London.

So, off Erin and I set.

The exhibition was to celebrate Jon M. Chu's 'Wicked: For Good', the follow-up to the award-winning 'Wicked'.

Set on the mezzanine gallery at the British Film Institute, there were photographs on display, showing glimpses of what goes on behind-the-scenes. This included set design, costume design and more.

Then there were the glass display cabinets, where  a model of the Emerald City Express, Ozian coins, the Grimmerie, Glinda's wand and Elphaba and Glinda's costumes could be admired.

It was a small but informative exhibition, with roughly thirty people walking through the gallery, at any one time.

Erin thoroughly enjoyed the exhibition, filling her with anticipation for the film's release on November 21, 2025.

The exhibition has been running since October 9, at BFI Southbank Mezzanine, and finishes on October 19 at 17:00.

Being a free event, no tickets are required. But, capacity is limited, so entry is on a first-served basis.

Gallery

'Cain Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery' by Michael Visocchi

Just off Fenchurch Street you will find Fen Court, which was once the churchyard of St Gabriel's Fenchurch Street. This area is now in the Parish of St Edmund the King and St Mary Woolnoth. A few tombs remain among the grass and paved area, with a small bedded maze. But, the most striking feature, of this thoroughfare, is the granite pillars and what looks like a pulpit. This is the 'Gilt of Cain', or, the 'Cain Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery'.

The artwork comprises a group of columns, shaped like sugar cane, surrounding a podium, much like that used in a church or an auctioneer. Around each column are extracts from the poem 'Gilt of Cain', by Lemn Sissay. The podium contains a longer extract from the poem.

The memorial was designed by Michael Visocchi, in collaboration with poet Lemn Sissay, and was unveiled, in 2008, by Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Mpilo Tutu.

Michael Visocchi designed the granite sculpture to appear as though the columns were silent sentinels of a congregation, facing the podium. His idea was to shape the columns like sugar cane and for the podium to appear more like an auctioneer's stance, while also keeping in mind the ecclesiastical nature of the area. 

Lemn Sissay's poem, 'Gilt of Cain', weaves Old Testament biblical references with the coded jargon from the trading floor of the City's stock exchange.

This site was chosen as the Reverend John Newton, who was a slave trader turned abolitionist, was rector of St Mary Woolnoth from 1780-1807. He famously worked closely with William Wilberforce to help bring about the abolition of the transatlantic slave trade. This was achieved in 1807 and brought about the process of the emancipation of slaves, throughout the British Empire.

London's Drinking Fountains

In a bustling metropolis like London, it's easy to overlook the small, yet significant, historical markers scattered throughout the city. Among these are the numerous drinking fountains and animal water troughs, silent sentinels that tell a story of Victorian philanthropy, public health, and a bygone era before bottled water became ubiquitous.

Imagine London in the mid-19th century. The River Thames, while a vital artery for trade, was also a significant source of drinking water for many, often contaminated and leading to devastating outbreaks of cholera and other diseases. Access to clean, safe drinking water was a luxury, not a right, and for the working classes, it was a daily struggle. This pressing public health crisis spurred a wave of social reform, and a key initiative was the provision of free, clean drinking water for all. 

The Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association, founded in 1859, became the driving force behind this movement. Their mission was simple: "to promote the erection of drinking fountains in the streets of London, and also of cattle troughs for the use of animals."

These fountains and troughs were more than just practical necessities; they were symbols of Victorian compassion and a commitment to public welfare. Funded by generous donations from individuals, charitable organizations, and even royalty, they sprung up in parks, market squares, and busy thoroughfares across the city.

Walking with Keilyn: Aldgate to Westminster... and beyond

Friday October 10, 2025.

Keilyn and I had worked out that we hadn't visited London, together, in quite a few weeks, which was a shock.

So, as soon as I had finished work and Keilyn had arrived home from school, we both got changed, grabbed some snacks and took a taxi to Watford Metropolitan underground station. An Aldgate-bound train was waiting at platform 2, which we hurriedly boarded, grabbing seats near the centre of the train. Within minutes we were on our way.

Pulling into Harrow-on-the-Hill station we were informed, by our driver, that the train pulling in beside us would be leaving first. So, a mass exodus of travellers, including us, crossed the platform and boarded the other train. A ridiculous thing to do, really, as this would only shave a few minutes from our journey time. Sure enough, though, we were soon moving again.

We exited Aldgate station and headed west, turning down Fenchurch Street until we reached Fen Court, where we stopped to look at the 'Gilt of Cain', which is a sculpture that commemorates the abolition of the slave trade. 

It is a remarkable piece. Composed of a granite podium, with steps, and columns that are shaped like sugar cane acting as a congregation. Each column is etched with lines from the poem 'Gilt of Cain', by Lemn Sissay.

We then made our way towards Fenchurch Street station, where we purchased some hot food, which we ate on the benches on Fenchurch Place. 

Suitably filled with energy we made our way back to Fenchurch Street and turned down St Katherine's Row and through French Ordinary Court. This eventually brought us out onto Crutched Friars and, then, Savage Gardens which brought us to Trinity Square. I do love the City of London's street names.

Crossing Tower Hill we stopped to take some photos of His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, spotting some of the poppy installation flowing down the wall of the Medieval castle.

From here we headed down to the River Thames and onto Three Quays Walk. The light was fading as we reached the river, making Tower Bridge really stand out, with its lights illuminating its profile. Sugar Quay Jetty offered the perfect place to grab some photos of the bridge, HMS Belfast and The Shard.

Approaching Grant's Quay Wharf we noticed that the top of The Shard had lights running up its uppermost levels, signalling the time was now 19:00.

London Bridge, like the rest of the bridges we would see, was illuminated with coloured lights, reflecting off the turbulent waters of the outgoing tide.

Coal Duty Posts

The next time you're driving, cycling, or walking in the outskirts of Greater London, keep an eye out for a humble, often white, cast-iron post. It might look like just another boundary marker, but these fascinating objects, known variously as Coal Posts or Coal Tax Posts, are silent sentinels of a centuries-old story of taxation, reconstruction, and London's booming growth.

The story of the Coal Posts begins long before they were erected. Since medieval times, the Corporation of the City of London had the authority to levy duties on goods, including coal, brought into the city. But it was a catastrophic event that truly put the coal duty into high gear: the Great Fire of 1666.

To fund the massive rebuilding effort, including iconic structures like St Paul's Cathedral, Acts of Parliament were passed, imposing additional duties on coal entering the Port of London. The revenue stream was vital, and over time, it was used for more than just immediate reconstruction. Funds from the coal and wine duties financed significant public works, such as the building of the Thames Embankment, Holborn Viaduct, and even the purchase of toll bridges to make them free for the public.

For centuries, collecting the tax was relatively straightforward. Coal came into London primarily by sea, docking at riverside wharves, where the tonnage could be easily measured and the duty collected.

However, the 19th century brought rapid change: the explosion of canals and railways. Suddenly, coal was entering London from all directions, bypassing the traditional wharves. The City of London needed a clear way to mark the inland boundary where the duty became payable.

London Stadium, Stratford

Walking around Stratford, today, it is hard to imagine that, up until twenty years ago, this was an area of London that was in dire need of regeneration.

Much of the area was derelict industrial wasteland, part of which was radioactive due to Queen Mary College's Department of Nuclear Engineering, having a small nuclear reactor onsite. Something needed to be done.

In 2001, following China's successful bid to host the 2008 Olympic Games, London put in a bid for the 2012 Olympic Games. Two plans were short-listed: 

1. West London - Based around Wembley and the construction of a new National Stadium to replace Wembley Stadium.
2. East London - Involving the regeneration of an area stretching from the Isle of Dogs, through Stratford, and on into the Lower Lea Valley.

The second plan won unanimously and so became the pitch for the London bid.

In May 2005, London won the bid to host the 2012 Olympics.

Construction

In May 2008, after the 'bowl' of the stadium had been excavated and the area cleared, construction of the stadium began. It was due to be completed in May 2011, but was completed in March of 2011, coming in under budget and ahead of schedule.

The foundation consists of 5,000 piles, driven to a depth of 20 m (66 ft)

In October 2011, the athletics track was laid. The track-and-field area is surrounded by 25,000 permanent seats, built using concrete.

Spectators and visitors enter the stadium at the podium level, which is inline with the top of the permanent seating. This upper tier was built from lightweight steel and concrete and accommodated another 55,000 spectators. The upper tier is 60 m (197 ft) in height.

Surrey Commercial Docks, Rotherhithe

Greenland Dock.

Walking around Rotherhithe it is hard to imagine that, just 40 years ago, this was a completely different area. Almost every part of it would have been docks, basins and cuts, rather than what now greets people. Housing estates, schools, shops, business centres, a farm, green spaces, ecology parks and, at its centre, Stave Hill Viewpoint have now replaced the docks that once covered this entire area. 

Of course, some small areas of water can be found, like Globe Pond Nature Reserve, Lavender Pond Nature Reserve and Surrey Water. Then you have some of the original docks, such as Canada Dock, Greenland Dock, Norway Dock and South Dock.

Brief History

Located in Rotherhithe, on the Surrey side of the River Thames, this area had been a hub of commercial activity since the 17th century.

The Howland Great Wet Dock was built between 1695 and 1699 and was the oldest of London's riverside wet docks. In 1763 the dock was sold and renamed Greenland Dock, due to the amount of whalers that used it. Greenland Dock became the central hub for the Surrey Commercial Docks.

During the 1800s expansions and improvements resulted in the formation of the Surrey Commercial Docks Company. These docks were part of the larger Port of London, which handled a significant amount of commercial shipping trade to and from the UK.

This is how the area once looked.

Many docks were named for what they imported or from where the products derived, while others had simpler names. There were docks named Albion, Canada, Greenland, Island, Lady, Lavender, Norway, Russia and Stave. Plus, the South and West Docks.