Surrey Commercial Docks, Rotherhithe

Greenland Dock.

Walking around Rotherhithe it is hard to imagine that, just 40 years ago, this was a completely different area. Almost every part of it would have been docks, basins and cuts, rather than what now greets people. Housing estates, schools, shops, business centres, a farm, green spaces, ecology parks and, at its centre, Stave Hill Viewpoint have now replaced the docks that once covered this entire area. 

Of course, some small areas of water can be found, like Globe Pond Nature Reserve, Lavender Pond Nature Reserve and Surrey Water. Then you have some of the original docks, such as Canada Dock, Greenland Dock, Norway Dock and South Dock.

Brief History

Located in Rotherhithe, on the Surrey side of the River Thames, this area had been a hub of commercial activity since the 17th century.

The Howland Great Wet Dock was built between 1695 and 1699 and was the oldest of London's riverside wet docks. In 1763 the dock was sold and renamed Greenland Dock, due to the amount of whalers that used it. Greenland Dock became the central hub for the Surrey Commercial Docks.

During the 1800s expansions and improvements resulted in the formation of the Surrey Commercial Docks Company. These docks were part of the larger Port of London, which handled a significant amount of commercial shipping trade to and from the UK.

This is how the area once looked.

Many docks were named for what they imported or from where the products derived, while others had simpler names. There were docks named Albion, Canada, Greenland, Island, Lady, Lavender, Norway, Russia and Stave. Plus, the South and West Docks.

2024: A Year in Review

Looking back at my travels, throughout 2024, I visited some historic places, iconic landmarks, museums and some interesting, unique and quirky places.

From Battersea to Woolwich and Highgate to Elephant and Castle, plus many points in-between, I, often with family and friends, walked a distance of over 140 miles and travelled over 700 miles, via London Underground. Plus, there were the buses, cable car, Overground and National Rail, which add more to the total.

Below I have listed some of these walks, although there were many others.

The year began with a walk from North Greenwich to Canada Water, taking the Thames Path for much of the route. Sculptures and historic buildings lined our way, with a lunch break at Greenwich Market and a drink at 'The Victoria', Deptford.

In February some friends and I walked from King's Cross to Wapping and back to Aldgate. We visited 'The Blind Beggar', where we met Vas Blackwood, before heading through Shadwell to 'Turner's Old Star', before heading through Wapping to 'The Prospect of Whitby'. We then made our way back, via St Katharine Docks, to Aldgate.

Erin joined me for my next trip, where we visited 'The Wallace Collection', at Hertford House, before having lunch at a 'Wok to Walk' and then visiting 'Liberty' and taking a meandering walk to Great Portland Street, via the BT Tower.

Late February saw Keilyn and I heading to Stratford to visit 'The Cart and Horses', birthplace of Iron Maiden, before we headed back to the City of London, visiting the 'Bank of England Museum'. Torrential rain cut our walk short, but it was still a great day out.

My mum and I took a trip to Canary Wharf and the 'Theatreship', in March, to hear Niki Gorick give a talk on her latest book, 'Dock Life Renewed'. Not much of a walk, but a fascinating evening.

With Spring truly here, my next walk, with Steve, was from the Light Tunnel, at King's Cross, to Baker Street, along the Regent's Canal, with lunch at Canopy Market and a drink at 'Camden Lock Dingwalls Pub'. A wonderful tranquil walk.

April saw Erin, Keilyn and I take Gary and his son, Alfie, to 'Mudchute Park and Farm', for Alfie's first trip to London. After the park we walked south to Island Gardens, before continuing along the River Thames and back to Canary Wharf.

Keilyn and I visited Gunnersbury Park and Museum, where we explored the mansion, once owned by the Rothschild family, and visited the exhibitions, before exploring the grounds.

Late April saw Keilyn and I visit the Brunel Museum, before heading along the Thames Path and visiting Stave Hill Viewpoint, before walking to Canada Water. From here we walked to Rotherhithe Station, where we travelled through the Thames Tunnel, built by Brunel, Wapping. From here we walked to HM Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, stopped for lunch, and then continued our walk to Barbican.

Our next walk saw Keilyn and I joined by my mum, uncle Martin and our friend Steve. We visited St Katharine Docks to see the Dunkirk Little Ships, before Keilyn, Steve and I headed off to the south bank for lunch at 'The Salt Quay'. We returned to Tower Bridge in time to see it open, to allow a barge to pass through, before rejoining my mum and uncle Martin.

Keilyn and I started our next walk from Marylebone station, heading towards Paddington. We saw 'Real Time' by Maarten Baas, before moving on to Leinster Gardens and the fake houses. From here we headed into Kensington Gardens and on to Kensington High Street. We visited Gnome Land, the Tower House and Gnome Land and ate our lunch in Holland Park, before heading to Green Park via Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park.

Severndroog Castle was the next starting point, for Keilyn and I, on a glorious Sunday in July. The folly offers unique views across London and its surrounding counties. From here we walked to St George's Garrison Church, before we stopped for lunch in Woolwich. We then took the Woolwich Free Ferry to the north bank, before continuing our walk to the Royal Docks, where we caught the Cable Car to North Greenwich.

Brent Lodge Park was the next visit, and starting point, for Keilyn and I. Hanwell Zoo is a great children's zoo, which we visited after first exploring the MillenniuM Maze. From here we walked through Brent Lodge Park, and The Hobbayne, before arriving at Hanwell station. A short trip, on the Elizabeth line, took us to Tottenham Court Road, where we continued walking, eventually arriving at Baker Street station.

August saw Emma, Erin, Keilyn and I, stay at Premier Inn Archway for one night, so that we could explore the area, using the hotel as a base. Kenwood House, Archway, Hampstead Heath and Highgate Cemetery were all explored, during our stay.

A rare solo trip saw me walk from Elephant and Castle to Borough, where I saw old World War II ARP Stretchers used as railings, saw the last surviving part of Marshalsea Prison and visited 'The Southwark Tavern'. An old Tram Shelter, with a new lease of life, was next, before heading for the south bank, where I saw William Blake's Mosaics beneath a bridge, before continuing to Waterloo.

Stave Hill Viewpoint, Rotherhithe

Looking towards the City of London.

It was while on a recent trip to Rotherhithe that I finally visited Stave Hill viewpoint, and it was not a disappointment.

Approaching Stave Hill Viewpoint.

Set in the Stave Hill Ecological Park this artificial hill stands stands 9 metres (29.5 feet) in height and offers incredible 360 degree views out across London. There are sixty concrete steps that need to be climbed, but it is definitely worth the climb. There is a handrail either side, to assist those less able.

The 60 Steps.

Obviously, the closest buildings to see are the ever increasing amount of buildings at nearby Canary Wharf, but there is more to see: Nine Elms, the BT Tower, Nine Elms, the City of London and all points in between. 

Walking with Keilyn: Brunel Museum to Rotherhithe... and beyond

Keilyn ready to visit the Brunel Museum.

Saturday April 27, 2024.

Another Saturday saw Keilyn and I take another trip to London. Specifically to visit the Brunel Museum, but then to explore the area.

Our trip began the same way as usual; Metropolitan line to Finchley Road and then on to Bermondsey.

Our first stop, on reaching Bermondsey, was to grab a coffee and hot chocolate, which we purchased from the Servewell Cafe, before continuing along Jamaica Road to Southwark Park. The forecast said that rain was due at around 14:00, so we decided to visit Southwark Park before it began.

Keilyn at the Southwark Park Bandstand.

We visited the bandstand, before passing the bowling green, crossing Carriage Drive, where we discovered the Caryatids of Rotherhithe Old Town Hall. 

The Caryatids of Rotherhithe Old Town Hall.

From here we entered the Ada Salter Garden and then made our way around Southwark Boating Lake, before heading back towards Jamaica Road and King's Stairs Gardens.

Southwark Park Boating Lake.

From here it was a short walk along Saint Marychurch Street to the Brunel Museum, passing the historic Mayflower pub along the way.

Brunel's Engine House plaque.

To our surprise the Brunel Museum was deserted, so we had the entire place to ourselves for our entire visit. After purchasing our tickets, Keilyn was issued with a clipboard with two sheets of questions about the museum and the history of the Thames Tunnel, called 'The Brunel Detective Trail'.

Keilyn 50-feet down the Thames Tunnel Shaft.

Our first stop was to the Thames Tunnel shaft, from where the tunnel's construction began. After being ushered in to this cavernous shaft, with its bare brick and smoke-coated walls, we were left to explore on our own. At the bottom of the shaft Keilyn and I took a seat and watched a 4-minute video, that was set on a continuous loop, that explained the reasoning, construction and effect the Thames Tunnel had on London and the world. As we watched the video we could hear, and feel the London Overground (The Windrush line, from Autumn 2024) rumbling past beneath our feet.

Some of the artefacts on display.