Sunday, February 04, 2024

Walking with friends: King's Cross to Whitechapel... and beyond

London The Unfinished City
A circular Tube Map, advertising Google's new 'circle to search' feature, at King's Cross station.

Saturday February 3, 2024.

Originally our plan had been to walk westward from London Bridge towards Vauxhall, as this was a route that we had only partially completed before. However, with a few train strikes and some engineering works being carried out, we decided on a completely different route.

Len made his way from Kings Langley to meet me and we caught the Metropolitan line to King's Cross, where we waited for Gary, who was travelling down from Peterborough. Len and I had a coffee, while we awaited Gary's train. Once Gary had arrived, at around 10:40, we decided to head east, along Pentonville Road to City Road and then onto Commercial Street.

London The Unfinished City
Trains covered in graffiti, Shoreditch.

On the way we passed through Shoreditch and saw lots of graffiti covered trains and buildings. 

With the time getting on for 11:30ish, we headed along Whitechapel Road in search of a bite to eat. A small restaurant, which was reasonably priced, provided sustenance and, suitably full, we continued ever eastward.

London The Unfinished City
The Blind Beggar.

Our first port-of-call was 'The Blind Beggar'. Gary had never visited this infamous pub, so he was pleased to enter. While we sat and chatted the actor Vas Blackwood entered, as he uses the pub as a starting point of his walking tours around the East End. Gary decided to go and have a chat with him, buying a signed photo and getting a selfie with him.

I think that sometime very soon I shall book myself on to one of Vas Blackwood's Walking Tours, as they are meant to be really informative and entertaining.

London The Unfinished City
Gary with the actor Vas Blackwood.

Suitably refreshed we left the pub and headed south, through Shadwell towards Wapping, as there was a pub that I thought they might like to visit.

Monday, January 29, 2024

'The Tide', Greenwich Peninsula

London The Unfinished City
'Quick Tide' by Felipe Pantone.

Greenwich Peninsula is an ever-changing place to visit. From its massive Peninsula Square with its water fountains, its boutique market and shops and, of course, the MillenniuM Dome, or the O2 Arena is now known, there is always lots to see and do.

London The Unfinished City
Looking down on Peninsula Square.

The riverside walk, towards Woolwich, has been cleaned up and now offers great places to sit and watch the activity of the River Thames. 

London The Unfinished City
'The Tide' from the riverside.

While the Olympian Way, which leads on to the Thames Path, offers great views across to the Isle of Dogs and the various public art along that part of the route.

London The Unfinished City
You are never far from the Greenwich Meridian.

One of the newest features, of the Peninsula, is 'The Tide', which is London's first-ever riverside linear park. This raised walkway allows you to sit above the bustle of Peninsula Square and relax. 

Sunday, January 28, 2024

Walking with family: North Greenwich to Deptford... and beyond

Isle of Dogs from the south bank
Canary Wharf from the Olympian Way.

Saturday January 27, 2024.

I had decided to take a trip with Keilyn to North Greenwich, in order to walk towards Tower Bridge, as we had previously walked from North Greenwich to the Woolwich Foot tunnel... and beyond. Emma decided that it might be good for us all to go, but Erin was dead against it, preferring to spend her Saturday with friends, rather than 'trudge' around London. 

So, leaving her with her friends, the three of us jumped in a taxi to Watford Metropolitan station, jumped on a train, transferred to a Jubilee line train, at Finchley Road, and finally arrived at our starting point of North Greenwich just before 11:00.

The Tide at North Greenwich
'The Tide' at North Greenwich.

Our first stop was to the pop-up market, on Peninsula Square, for a hot drink, before heading towards 'The Tide', with its multi-coloured steps and great views.

From here we followed Olympian Way, which is part of the Thames Path, around the back of the O2 Arena, heading towards Greenwich proper.

Liberty by Gary Hume
'Liberty' by Gary Hume.

The first of the public art installations that we discovered, along the Olympian Way, was 'Liberty Grip' by Gary Hume, a strange piece of work that is modelled on mannequin arms. Vey odd, but still a delight to see.

Rear of the O2 Arena
At the back of the O2 Arena.

As I had never walked this part of the Thames Path, it was strange seeing the back of the O2 Arena, with its little pocket park for staff to use and the parts of the arena that you don't normally get to see.

Tribe and Tribulation by Serge Attukwei Clottey
'Tribe and Tribulation' by Serge Attukwei Clottey.

The next piece of public art we discovered was 'Tribe and Tribulation' by Serge Attukwei Clottey, which was a stack of container boxes, piled on top of each other. But, as you drew closer, you could hear sounds emanating from within the boxes. These 'sounds' were recordings from various Slave Fort locations along the former Gold Coast. It was delightful and disturbing, in equal measure.

Here by Jon Thomson and Alison Craighead
'Here' by Jon Thomson and Alison Craighead.

Next, Keilyn spotted a signpost, which I had paid no mind to, seeing as it was just a signpost. However, I was wrong. This signpost had a name and was a simple piece of art, entitled 'Here', and was created by Jon Thomson and Alison Craighead.

A Slice of Reality by Richard Wilson
'A Slice of Reality' by Richard Wilson.

But what I had heard about and was looking forward to seeing was suddenly in view. Quite possibly the largest piece of public art in London. 'A Slice of Reality' by Richard Wilson. A vertical section of an ocean-going dredger, left to rust in the River Thames. It was quite something to behold, when stood right next to it. It is a pretty awesome piece.

Canary Wharf with a rotting wharf
An old rotting dock with the new Canary Wharf.

We continued along the Thames Path, watching the skyline on the Isle of dogs change as our route meandered along the River Thames. There were plenty of other people using the route, too. Joggers, cyclists, dog walkers, but next to no families. Very odd. We passed the Greenwich Peninsula Golf Range, with Keilyn trying to reach through the mesh fencing to try and grab a golf ball. Fortunately, we found a few that escaped the confines of the range, so she was happy and hurriedly put them in her pockets.

Beer sign
The biggest 'Beer' sign that I have ever seen.

We discovered waterside pubs, a place where the Necrobus and other buses and cars were kept, boat repair yards, industrial works and much more.

London Buses
Where some of the buses sleep.

Boat Repair Yard
Repairing the boat 'Alfie'.

Soon we could see Greenwich Power Station and, beyond, the Old Royal Naval College, and the masts of 'Cutty Sark'. All the while the kept looking across to the Isle of Dogs, trying to spot any new towers, since our last visit, to the Canary Wharf skyline.

Trinity Hospital
Trinity Hospital.

After a slight detour, away from the river, we were soon passing the gigantic Greenwich Power Station, Trinity Hospital and heading along Crane Street, with its colourful pennants draped across the street, while signs and smells enticed weary travellers in for food and beer. 

Crane Street Pennants
Pennants.

Thursday, January 25, 2024

Gasholder Park

London The Unfinished City
The guide frame for gasholder No. 8.

Some of the most striking buildings that have been part of the King's Cross skyline, for over 150 years, are the gasholders. These giant cast-iron buildings were in use until the late 20th century, but soon became redundant and, along with the rest of the area, fell into disrepair. 

I have seen these gasholders from trains, but never up close, so was looking forward to paying them a visit. 

Walking along the Regent's Canal, from Camden, these iconic buildings now stand just east of the main rail line, at St Pancras Basin.

One of them stands completely empty with just its wrought iron columns and girders surrounding the small park at its centre. 

London The Unfinished City
Erin & Keilyn checking out their reflections in Gasholder No. 8.

It is a wonderful place to sit and relax, with mirrored surfaces reflecting the ambient light, which is supplemented in the evening with extra lighting.

Three other gasholders have been converted into apartments with roof gardens, offering amazing views across the city for those lucky enough to live here.

Fortunately for King's Cross, but not for Waterloo, the decision to move the Channel Tunnel Rail Link from Waterloo to St Pancras was what caused the regeneration of the area.

With grassy areas and the canal, this is a great place to stroll on a warm day, whether as a stop-off on your way to Coal Drops Yard and further east, or heading west to Camden and onto Little Venice.

Wednesday, January 24, 2024

Station Area ID Codes (SIDs)

London The Unfinished City

When travelling to London I use the London Underground, or, depending on my destination, the Overground. Because of this I have visited many stations, with their countless escalators, lifts, staircases, corridors and ticket halls, which make each station unique in its own way.

Another thing that they all share are small blue number plates, affixed to walls and doors throughout the station complex. Some corridors can have multiple SIDs, depending on their length.

London The Unfinished City

Each plate as a single digit number above a three digit number. The top number is easy to work out as this denotes the level beneath ground, but the longer number is a lot trickier to understand.