Walking with family: Canning Town to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Bow Creek.

Sunday April 27, 2025. Another Sunday and another trip to London. 

Keilyn, my mum and I took a leisurely stroll to Watford Metropolitan station, where we caught a Baker Street-bound train to Finchley Road, from where we caught a Stratford-bound train to Canning Town. With a football match, at Wembley Stadium, and the London Marathon, across London, the trains were a little busier than normal, but they soon cleared after we passed Canada Water.

'After the Dance' by Colin Spofforth

At Canning Town we took the lift to Footbridge Level and made our way across to City Island and Hopewell Square, and its sculpture entitled 'After the Dance', before we explored the wonderfully landscaped green spaces along Bow Creek and the River Lea. Because we were further east, than the eastern point of the London Marathon on the north bank, City Island was deserted.

We then had a short wander around East India Basin, before heading to Trinity Buoy Wharf.

Hot chocolate time.

Our first stop was at the Orchard Café, where drinks and food were ordered, which we finished while sitting at one of the tables. The beverages and pastries were wonderful, while the service was impeccable.

Keilyn, the photographer.

On leaving the café, we kept to the wharf wall, so that we could take in the historic vessels and the various sculptures dotted around. Then we entered the Faraday Effect shed and explored a little more.

After checking out the Faraday Effect, Keilyn led us into the Bow Creek Lighthouse, clambering up the stone stairs to the first floor, excited to see, and hear, 'Longplayer' again. Mum and I soon caught up to her, before she was leading us up the final set of stairs to the Lantern Room, where you can hear 'Longplayer' a lot clearer, whilst also taking in the views along the River Thames. Another visitor, to the lighthouse, was already in the Lantern Room, listening quietly to the music, and kindly offered to take a photo of the three of us.

Just the three of us.

After the photo and we had sat for a few minutes, we made our way downstairs and out of the lighthouse to look at more of the buildings and sculptures. We then made our way into the Trinity Art Studios, where we looked at paintings, sculptures and other pieces of art.

Now, we had a decision to make. Use the Lea Crossing, and head to the Royal Docks, or head towards Canary Wharf.

Sailing boats and the O2 Arena.

We headed west, walking through East India Basin and saw some small sail boats heading up the river. From here we headed to Virginia Quay and Prime Meridian Walk, before turning onto Newport Avenue, where we stopped at a convenience store to purchase some lunch and more drinks. We ate our baguettes in the shade, below the DLR, before heading up to platform level, where we caught a DLR train to Poplar.

Reuters Plaza.

Arriving at Poplar we used the lift to reach street level, following Aspen Way until we reached Upper Bank Street. Ahead of us we could see the bustle of spectators cheering on the marathon runners, which we soon got caught up in. After watching some of the competitors, from a vantage point at the corner of Canada Square and North Colonnade, we headed along South Colonnade until we reached Reuters Plaza. I have never seen this plaza filled with so many people, as shoppers mingled with fans and residents, all heading in opposing directions.

'Timepiece Sundial' by Wendy Ann Taylor

The sundial is one of man's oldest astronomical instruments.

In this particular form, known as an Equinoctial Sundial, the dial is in the same plane as the Earth's equator and the gnomon, or rod, is parallel to the axis of the Earth pointing true north.

The shadow of the gnomon moving across the dial indicates the time. In summer the shadow falls on the face of the dial, in winter on the inner edge.

Meath Memorial, Christ Church & the Memorial Cross, Lancaster Gate

Lancaster Gate

The square at Lancaster Gate is the focal point of a large residential estate, laid out in the late 1860s by the speculative developer Henry de Bruno Austin. The estate reputedly take sits name from the nearby north gate into Hyde Park, which honours Queen Victoria, the Duchess of Lancaster.

The square was refurbished by Westminster City Council in 2002 and creates a new setting for the restored Memorial Cross.

Bayswater Road follows the route of a Roman Road 'Via Trinobantia'. The area was predominantly farmland until the 19th century.

The botanist and playwright John Hill had his physic garden here until 1775. In 1795, the locality flourished as the Bayswater Tea Gardens, famous for its springs and salubrious air. Later, the name was changed to the Flora Tea Gardens and then Victoria Tea Gardens which finally closed in 1854 for comprehensive development.

Lancaster Gate is a fine example of a mid-Victorian London development. The layout and scale of its long imposing terraces represent Bayswater's most ambitious architectural achievement.

The Grade II listed stuccoed terraces are richly ornamented with classical porticoes, colonnaded balconies and console cornicing.. The terraces south of Lancaster Gate are the work of architect Sancton Wood. Those to the north, adjacent to the former Christ Church, are the work of architect John Johnson.

Meath Memorial

The monument at the junction with Bayswater Road is the Meath Memorial.

The memorial was designed by Hermon Cawthra RA and commemorates Reginald Brabazon, 12th Earl of Meath (1841-1929). It was unveiled in 1934. The Earl of Meath was actively engaged in social and philanthropic work. He was the first chairman of the Young Men's Friendly Society, first President of the British College of Physical Education, and founder and first President of the Lad's Drill Association.

Lord Meath was also the first chairman of both the London County Council Parks Committee and the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association.

Steps in the memorial lead to a tall pedestal with a portrait medallion together with a domed top surmounted by the figure of a seated boy.

The monument is Grade II listed.

'Chiswick': A Harland & Wolff 'Large Woolwich' type Cargo Ship

Monday April 21, 2025.

As much as I love walking through London, I also enjoy walking along the Grand Union Canal.

So it was that I came across this piece of London maritime history, while walking towards Hillingdon, along the Grand Union Canal. 

What caught my eye was the legend 'Harland & Wolff'. As I approached the vessel I could see a man standing beside it. After a quick introduction, his name is Mark, he told me a little about the narrowboat and allowed me to take some photographs of the signage and Harland & Wolff plaque.

He explained that it was one of the last working cargo ships on the Grand Union Canal and that part of the area, beneath the canvas, had now been converted, so that he could live on it. I then bid him farewell and continued on my way.

It is a beautiful craft and looks pretty good at 88 years and 1 day old.

History

London has always had a long history of shipbuilding, with the Port of London being one of the most important strategic maritime locations for over 2,000 years.

Over the centuries many companies moved, or opened, new facilities along the banks of the River Thames.

King Henry VIII created the first permanent dockyards at Woolwich. Then, over the centuries, more shipbuilders began to move to the River Thames, owing to the safety of the river and the Port of London. These companies included Ditchburg & Mare, Russell's, Samuda Brothers, Thames Ironworks, Watson & Company, Wigram's and Yarrow to name just a few.

One of the most famous names to appear, along the River Thames, was Harland & Wolff, of RMS Titanic fame, whose North Woolwich yard was the largest in London. They also had another six Harland & Wolff repair yards spread along the river at London, Millwall, Surrey and West India Docks.

Their North Woolwich yard had workshops for boiler making, French polishing, sail making, upholstery and a large forge.

The yard was also used for repairs to vessels, including warships. 

St Mary-at-Lambeth Church and Tower

Standing beside Lambeth Palace is all that remains of St Mary-at-Lambeth church. Or, more correctly, its tower.

There has been a church on this site since before 1086, while Lambeth Palace opened in 1435.

In 1851 the church was demolished, with the exception of the tower, and rebuilt, so that more seats could be added. This Middle Ages inspired building remained in use until 1972. 

At the base of the tower, is an immersion font. Archbishop of Canterbury Edward Benson (1883-1896) appointed his close friend John Reeve as the Rector of St Mary's, in 1894. Reeve commissioned this font in Benson's memory. It is one of only two known examples of an immersion font to be found in an Anglican church.

The tower is still accessible to visitors who, for a small fee, can climb the 131 steps to the roof of the tower.