West India Docks

The next time you’re visiting Canary Wharf, take a moment to look beyond the towering glass and steel. You are standing in a place with a history that is as rich, complex, and sometimes brutal, as any in London: Welcome to the West India Docks.

Once the beating heart of a global trading empire, these docks tell a fascinating story of ambition, immense wealth, human cost, and ultimate transformation.

Before the West India Docks, the River Thames was a chaotic mess of ships, theft, and congestion. Enter the powerful West India merchants, who successfully lobbied for dedicated, secure docks. The result was the West India Dock Act of 1799, paving the way for a revolutionary development on the Isle of Dogs.

Walking with family: Canning Town to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Bow Creek.

Sunday April 27, 2025. Another Sunday and another trip to London. 

Keilyn, my mum and I took a leisurely stroll to Watford Metropolitan station, where we caught a Baker Street-bound train to Finchley Road, from where we caught a Stratford-bound train to Canning Town. With a football match, at Wembley Stadium, and the London Marathon, across London, the trains were a little busier than normal, but they soon cleared after we passed Canada Water.

'After the Dance' by Colin Spofforth

At Canning Town we took the lift to Footbridge Level and made our way across to City Island and Hopewell Square, and its sculpture entitled 'After the Dance', before we explored the wonderfully landscaped green spaces along Bow Creek and the River Lea. Because we were further east, than the eastern point of the London Marathon on the north bank, City Island was deserted.

We then had a short wander around East India Basin, before heading to Trinity Buoy Wharf.

Hot chocolate time.

Our first stop was at the Orchard Café, where drinks and food were ordered, which we finished while sitting at one of the tables. The beverages and pastries were wonderful, while the service was impeccable.

Keilyn, the photographer.

On leaving the café, we kept to the wharf wall, so that we could take in the historic vessels and the various sculptures dotted around. Then we entered the Faraday Effect shed and explored a little more.

After checking out the Faraday Effect, Keilyn led us into the Bow Creek Lighthouse, clambering up the stone stairs to the first floor, excited to see, and hear, 'Longplayer' again. Mum and I soon caught up to her, before she was leading us up the final set of stairs to the Lantern Room, where you can hear 'Longplayer' a lot clearer, whilst also taking in the views along the River Thames. Another visitor, to the lighthouse, was already in the Lantern Room, listening quietly to the music, and kindly offered to take a photo of the three of us.

Just the three of us.

After the photo and we had sat for a few minutes, we made our way downstairs and out of the lighthouse to look at more of the buildings and sculptures. We then made our way into the Trinity Art Studios, where we looked at paintings, sculptures and other pieces of art.

Now, we had a decision to make. Use the Lea Crossing, and head to the Royal Docks, or head towards Canary Wharf.

Sailing boats and the O2 Arena.

We headed west, walking through East India Basin and saw some small sail boats heading up the river. From here we headed to Virginia Quay and Prime Meridian Walk, before turning onto Newport Avenue, where we stopped at a convenience store to purchase some lunch and more drinks. We ate our baguettes in the shade, below the DLR, before heading up to platform level, where we caught a DLR train to Poplar.

Reuters Plaza.

Arriving at Poplar we used the lift to reach street level, following Aspen Way until we reached Upper Bank Street. Ahead of us we could see the bustle of spectators cheering on the marathon runners, which we soon got caught up in. After watching some of the competitors, from a vantage point at the corner of Canada Square and North Colonnade, we headed along South Colonnade until we reached Reuters Plaza. I have never seen this plaza filled with so many people, as shoppers mingled with fans and residents, all heading in opposing directions.

'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)' by Jason Klimoski and Lesley Chang

Canary Wharf is home to over 100 pieces of public art, spread across the site from Westferry, in the west, to Wood Wharf in the east. 

Some of these works were purchased, while others were commissioned or are on loan to the Canary Wharf Group.

The latest piece to join this collection is 'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)'. It was designed by Jason Klominski and Lesley Chang, from the architecture and design firm StudioKCA, with the aid of the Hawaii Wildlife Fund.

Standing at 11m (36ft), or four storeys tall, and weighing 5 tonnes, this permanent artwork shows the whale breaking the surface of the water, arching its back as if it is going to crash down on the footpath beside Wood Wharf.

The piece is made from plastic, washed up on Hawaiian beaches, in an effort to highlight the problem of plastic in our seas and oceans. The sculpture is not just made from recycled plastic, but sustainable elements, too. Its base is unique, being a first-of-its-kind low-carbon concrete underwater base, made from coffee grounds from local bars and cafes.

The Canary Wharf Group has, since 2009, sent zero waste to landfill from its managed areas. This sculpture has been placed to show their commitment to reducing waste. Even the installation process, of the sculpture, was carefully considered to minimise its carbon footprint.

To see more photographs of some of the public art on display, across Canary Wharf,

click on the link below.

Gallery

Canary Wharf Art Map: Download

Walking with Keilyn: West India Docks to East India Docks... and beyond

Sunday April 13, 2025.

Another Sunday and another Walk with Keilyn.

We began our day with a walk to Watford Metropolitan station, with food, snacks and drinks all packed in my rucksack. We boarded the train and headed off towards London. We switched to a Jubilee line train, at Finchley Road, and continued our journey to Canary Wharf.

On exiting Canary Wharf station we began our walk by heading through Jubilee Park, checking out some of the Canary Wharf Public Art, and Easter Eggs, on our way to Wood Wharf.

Approaching Wood Wharf we could easily spot 'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)', the latest piece to join the Canary Wharf Public Art trail. Standing at four-storeys, and made of 5 tonnes of recycled plastic, the whale towered over the crowds that come to see it. 

From here we continued eastward, along Branran Street and onto Lovegrove Walk, before we joined Preston's Road. From here we walked along Coldharbour, passing 'The Gun' public house and then Nelson House, before rejoining Preston's Road.

We then walked around, the now sealed, Blackwall Basin Entrance Lock, before rejoining the Thames Path North East Extension.

A compass, in the ground, was bisected by the Prime Meridian Line, so Keilyn could stand on both east and west of the line. 

We then continued along the path until we reached Virginia Quay and the Virginia Quay Settlers Monument.

With time getting on we stopped to eat our lunch, at East India Quay, enjoying the peace and tranquillity of the River Thames and the view across to the MillenniuM Dome.

'Skystation' by Peter Newman

Wandering, as I do, I discovered this spaceship-like metal sculpture, near Nine Elms. 

Affixed to its side is a small plaque that reads:

SKYSTATION

51°28'57"N

PETER NEWMAN

0°08'11"W

2015

Besides this there is no explanation as to what this sculpture represents, or is for. 

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Saturday January 25, 2025.

Another Saturday and another trip to London was in order.

Up. Dressed. Keilyn and I take an Uber to the station. Meet Steve. Underground to Finchley Road. Underground to Aldgate.

Reaching the end of the line, Steve, Keilyn and I left Aldgate station and immediately grabbed a hot drink from the coffee shop outside the station. Then, with drinks in hand, we set off... heading east.

Heading along Aldgate High Street we crossed St Botolph Street and continued along Whitechapel High Street and onto Whitechapel Road, soon coming to Whitechapel Market, with its hustle and bustle and aromatic smells.

We passed the old Whitechapel Dell Foundry, the Royal London Hospital and the Blind Beggar pub, briefly toying with the idea of heading south, through Shadwell to the River Thames, but instead continued east along Mile End Road.

Statues, sculptures and fascinating architecture lined our route with Trinity Green and its Almshouses being a highlight, with stone ships mounted atop the ends of the Almshouses.

We continued our walk, passing Stepney Green station and the huge campus that is Queen Mary University of London, until we reached The Regent's Canal.

Realising that we would soon end up on Stratford or Ilford, if Keilyn had her way, we decided to join the towpath and follow the canal to the River Thames.

Swans, coots, moorhens, ducks and geese were happily gliding along the still water surface, while Herons stood on the bank, or stood motionless in Mile End Park, oblivious to the joggers and families using the space.

We passed the Ragged School Museum, with its cafe full of patrons, and continued alongside the canal until we reached Limehouse Basin, with its myriad barges, boats and yachts.

From here it was a short walk through Ropemakers Fields to Narrow Street, using the bridge to cross Limekiln Dock, to reach Limehouse Hole Stairs. As the tide was out we dropped down onto the small beach and enjoyed the unseasonably warm heat of the sun.

As we climbed back up to street level I could just make out a conversation between a young woman and a much older man, but there was no one around that matched the sounds. Joggers were plugged into their devices, while families were pointing out the sights. As I stood and listened I realised that the voices were coming from a silver bench. Sitting down I realised that it was a recorded interview about life on the docks, being played through speakers at either end of the bench. It is such a clever idea.

We continued along Loverose Way before crossing onto Heron Quays Road, making our way around Middle Dock, heading for the Henry Addington pub, where we would have dinner.

Stave Hill Viewpoint, Rotherhithe

Looking towards the City of London.

It was while on a recent trip to Rotherhithe that I finally visited Stave Hill viewpoint, and it was not a disappointment.

Approaching Stave Hill Viewpoint.

Set in the Stave Hill Ecological Park this artificial hill stands stands 9 metres (29.5 feet) in height and offers incredible 360 degree views out across London. There are sixty concrete steps that need to be climbed, but it is definitely worth the climb. There is a handrail either side, to assist those less able.

The 60 Steps.

Obviously, the closest buildings to see are the ever increasing amount of buildings at nearby Canary Wharf, but there is more to see: Nine Elms, the BT Tower, Nine Elms, the City of London and all points in between. 

Walking with friends: Canary Wharf to Mudchute... and beyond

Erin, Keilyn and Alfie, ready for London.

Saturday April 6, 2024.

With Emma having gone away for the weekend, with her friend, and Gary staying with us, along with his son, Alfie, we decided to take Alfie on his first trip to London.

With lunches packed we set off for the short walk to Watford Metropolitan station, where we caught a train to Finchley Road and then a Jubilee line train to Canary Wharf. Alfie fell asleep as we left Watford and didn't wake until we reached Canary Wharf station. As the train pulled in to Finchley Road Keilyn showed off her 'Mind the Gap' t-shirt to the driver, making him chuckle. 

Leaving Canary Wharf station we took the obligatory photo of everyone in Richard Hudson's 'Tear', which everyone should do when visiting the area.

Mudchute Park and Farm is just a short twenty minute walk from Canary Wharf station, which allowed us to take plenty of photos of the buildings, docks. boats and more.

A quick stop at Asda, to get drinks, use the facilities and for Keilyn to have her photo taken with a postbox.

Crossing the Asda car park brought us to the entrance to Mudchute Park and Farm, just as lunchtime approached, so we sat and had something to eat, before taking Alfie to see the animals. Donkeys, peacocks, rabbits, goats, pigs, chickens, sheep and much more were in the various fields, paddocks, pens and stables.

'Dock Life Renewed': A talk by photographer Niki Gorick

'Dock Life Renewed' by Niki Gorick.

Thursday March 21, 2024.

It was a little bit of rush to leave work, head home, get changed and walk to Watford Metropolitan station, to catch the train to London. My mum, who had made her way to Croxley station, was waiting on the platform as my train pulled in.

Once aboard we settled down and enjoyed the ride to Finchley Road, where we switched to a Jubilee line train for the rest of our journey to the Isle of Dogs.

Arriving at Canary Wharf station we made our way along Bank Street and on to the South Dock, crossing the South Quay Footbridge to look for somewhere to buy a bite to eat.

Just along South Quay Walk, near Admirals Way, we found a collection of street food vendors. There was Burrito, Chinese, Greek, Indian and Lebanese. We opted for Lebanese, which was tasty and filling. The owner was friendly and obviously took a liking to the two of us, as he gave us a free drink and extra meat on our dishes. 

The Burrito Bro and Steam Momo vans. 

Lebanese street food van.

With our hunger now satisfied, we made our way along South Quay Walk towards the Millwall Cutting and our destination... the Theatreship.

The venue.

After taking the obligatory photos of the surrounding buildings and the Theatreship we boarded the vessel, and made our way downstairs to the bar area. 

'Theatreship', South Quay, Isle of Dogs

Theatreship open for entertainment.

The Theatreship is a new, as of 2024, world-class performing arts space on a historic ship, moored on the Millwall Cutting on the Isle of Dogs. It is the Millwall Cutting that links the South Dock with the Millwall Inner Dock and, until the 1950s, continued to the River Thames via the Millwall Slipway.

I visited the ship just weeks after it opened to hear a talk by Niki Gorick, about her book 'Dock Life Renewed', for which the Theatreship was the perfect venue.

Lovingly restored and fitted with a new spacious interior bar area and an events space, with tiered seating, it is a remarkable piece of renovation and foresight.

A new name for a historic ship.

Brief History

The ship was built in 1913 and weighs 300-tonnes. She began life as a sailing cargo barge, that transported cargo like coal and grain from Europe to London. She would continue in service for over 100 years serving the ports of Northern Europe, before she was retired.

Isle of Dogs

Canary Wharf across the fields.

One of the places that I have begun to visit more and more, lately, is the Isle of Dogs. Not just the Canary Wharf area, the Museum of London Docklands or Crossrail Place Roof Garden (which is beautiful in the summer months), but the rest of this piece of land that has the River Thames meandering around it. 

The North Dock.

From the historic launch ramps of the SS Great Eastern to the oldest public house on the Island. From Cubitt Town to Millwall. From Mudchute Park and Farm to Island Gardens, there is much to discover.

Crossrail Place Roof Garden.

To walk around the Isle takes less than two hours and it is a revealing experience. 

One Bank Street.

Unlike many other areas in this neck of the woods, the history of this piece of London and its people has been kept. This may have something to do with the east end ethic of history and community, rather than a conscious effort on the part of local government.

The oldest pub on the Island.

Regardless, there is always something to discover and wonder at as you wander around what was, up until fairly recent times, a patch of marshland that was prone to flooding.

Crossrail Place Roof Garden

 

View from the Roof Garden.

One of the more interesting parts of the Canary Wharf development, for me, is the Crossrail Place Roof Garden. 

From the outside it looks reminiscent of the Eden Project, in Cornwall, with huge plastic sheets, supported on the largest timber frame in the UK, covering much of the surface area. The rest is left open to the elements and acts like a giant terrarium. 

Crossrail Place Roof Garden.

Taking the escalator to the roof garden brings you out into a lush forest full of ferns, maples, strawberry and banana trees and much more.

Western ferns.