Walking with family: London Bridge to St Katharine Docks... and beyond

Sunday September 29, 2024.

With the Metropolitan line completely closed and the London Overground (Lioness line) not going beyond Finsbury Park, uncle Martin, Keilyn and I took the 09:24 fast train from Watford Junction to Euston, then a Northern line, via Bank, to London Bridge.

From here we crossed Tooley Street and took the stairs down to the Contorted Tunnel, which would lead us to Hay's Galleria.

Our first stop was Café Piazza, where we sat and had hot drinks. Vanilla latte, for me, Cappuccino, for Martin and a Hot Chocolate with cream and mini marshmallows for Keilyn.

Suitably refreshed we headed out of Hay's Galleria and headed to HMS Belfast.

With tickets in hand we boarded this historic vessel and begun our exploration. Our first surprise was seeing a German Navy Corvette-class ship, named Magdeburg, moored on her port side.

Across nine decks we clambered, exploring every inch of the ship that was open. The boiler room and one of the gun turrets were closed for maintenance. 

We made our way from the Quarter deck towards the Fo'c'sle, before we headed up the decks sitting in the Admiral's chair, the Captain and Navigating Officer chairs, before reaching the Flag deck.

Then we headed down to visit the Mess decks, Sick bay, the Galley, the Engine room, the Chapel, Operations room, the Lower steering position, Gun turret and everything in-between.

Two and a half hours later we disembarked HMS Belfast and stopped for some lunch from one of the street vendors, that had setup along The Queen's Walk.

London's 'Magnificent Seven' Cemeteries. But, originally, there were eight

During the 1830s and 1840s eight private cemeteries were created in an attempt to solve the problem of overcrowding in Victorian London's churchyards. 

This was brought about by a number of factors that included the rapidly increasing rates in birth and mortality and a migration of people from rural areas to the city, due, in part, to the Industrial Revolution.

In 1831 London suffered a cholera epidemic and public health became a major issue. It was believed that poisonous vapours from decomposing bodies was a factor in the outbreak of both cholera and typhoid.

As churchyards became full graves were dug at a depth of just 3 feet (1 metre) and, within a few months, were used again. 

'Resurrection Men' were another problem. These Resurrectionists would raid cemeteries in order to snatch a body, which would then be sold to hospitals for medical students to dissect. These body snatchers would select a grave and then dig a hole at the head end. They then broke the coffin and, using a rope, dragged out the body, thus not having to do a full excavation. They were also careful not to take any jewellery or clothes, as this would result in more serious charges, punishable by transportation to the colonies. Bodies belonged to no one, so their removal was a far less serious charge. 

Such was the proliferation of 'body snatching' that Watch Houses were built, beside graveyards, and were manned by armed watchmen.

In 1832 an Act was passed by Parliament that encouraged the construction of private cemeteries outside central London.

Between 1833 and 1845 eight garden cemeteries were established, four of which were consecrated by the Bishop of London, Charles James Blomfield.

According to census records London's population was one million, in 1801, but had doubled to two million by 1841. At this point London had a death rate of over 45,000 people a year, or 125 people a day.

In 1981 Hugh Meller, an architectural historian, dubbed the surviving group of cemeteries 'The Magnificent Seven', after the movie of the same name.

Each of these cemeteries is unique, making them all worthy of a visit.

Olympic Bell (London 2012)

The Olympic Bell, which Bradley Wiggins rung to signal the opening of the London 2012 Olympics, now hangs rather forlornly outside the London Stadium.

It is a monster of a bell that will, in all likelihood, hang hear for the rest of its days, never to be rung again. This seems to be a waste of a bell, to me, as a bell is designed and tuned to be rung.

Having never seen it up close I was shocked by the sheer size of it.

"Be not afeard; the isle is full of noises" - The Tempest

Brief History

The Whitechapel Bell Foundry was commissioned to make the bell for the London 2012 Olympic Games, in September 2011. They finalised the design, kettering and tuning but found that no longer had the capability to cast such a massive bell. Controversially, they subcontracted the casting to Royal Eijsbouts, in the Netherlands. The Loughborough based Taylor's Bell Foundry, which had also tendered to the cast the bell, took exception at the bell being cast by a non-British company. 

The framework, from which to hang the bell, and the hammer mechanism, which alone weighed a half-ton, were made by various companies. In total there were twenty different companies, from three countries, that brought the bell to completion.

Watch House, Rotherhithe

This Watch House, on St Marychurch Street, was used by Watchmen in the 19th century. 

Constructed in 1821 it was built as a twin to the Old Rotherhithe Fire Engine House, just a bit further along Saint Marychurch Street.

It has a single floor, above ground, and a basement level, which contained a cell.

The Watchmen who were stationed here would patrol the local area in an effort to deter criminal activity. If a watchman found someone acting suspiciously they would be brought back to the Watch House, where they were kept in a cell until either being discharged or imprisoned.

This particular Watch House backs on to St Mary's Churchyard. One of the jobs watchmen were called upon to undertake was the protection of the dead. Bodysnatchers, or 'Resurrection Men' as they were known, who stole corpses for for medical research at Guy's Hospital, often visited graveyards in an attempt to find 'fresh' bodies.

The former burial ground is now St Mary's Churchyard Gardens, and the Watch House is now the Watchhouse Cafe. 

The building is Grade II listed.

Charles 'Charlie' Rouse, circa 1850.

Being a Watchmen was originally an unpaid civic duty for the local townspeople. Eventually it would become a 'profession', with Watchmen receiving a small sum for their time.

Their local parish would set down the routes that were to be followed, which they would patrol from 21:00 to 06:00. 

They were known to call out the time and weather every hour, check for fires, ensure that the village folk had locked their doors, among other things. Occasionally, townsfolk would pay the Watchmen a small sum of money to act as a walking alarm clock, waking those that had paid at a specific time.

There are still some similar Watch Houses in and around London. like the one above which is at St Matthew's Church Gardens, Bethnal Green.

Obelisk & St George's Circus

Walking through Southwark, along Borough Road towards Westminster Bridge Road, you will come to a junction where the aforementioned roads meet London Road. At the centre of the roundabout stands an obelisk. This is St George's Circus, and it has an interesting history.

Built in 1771, St George's Circus was London's first purpose built traffic junction. The original obelisk, at the centre of the roundabout, was affixed with four oil lamps to aid traffic in the evenings.

In 1897 the obelisk was removed and replaced with a clock tower, to honour Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. The obelisk was then erected in front of the Imperial War Museum, in what is now known as grounds of Geraldine Mary Harmsworth Park, in 1905, while the clock tower remained at St George's Circus until the 1930s, when it was demolished.