The Docklands Light Railway

The Docklands Light Railway is the unsung hero of London transit, and I shall prove it.

Today, it is a sleek, driverless marvel handling over 100 million passenger journeys a year. But back in the 1980s it was a low-budget experiment that critics confidently predicted would be an absolute disaster.

Here is the story of how London’s futuristic "toy train" grew up to save the East End.

1987: The "Toy Railway" Opens for Business

By the early 1980s, London’s historic Docklands were in a sorry state. The shipping industry had moved downstream, leaving behind miles of derelict, silent quays. The government wanted to transform the Isle of Dogs into a shiny new financial district, what we now know as Canary Wharf, but there was a massive problem: nobody could get there.

Building a standard Underground line was deemed way too expensive. The solution? A cheap, cheerful, "light" railway utilising abandoned railway viaducts.

When Queen Elizabeth II officially opened the DLR in August 1987, it was... modest.

• It had just 11 trains and 15 stations.
• The trains were tiny single-car units that were compared to 'Lego' blocks.
• The original stations were so basic they didn't even have roofs to protect passengers from the classic British rain.

The media immediately dubbed it the "Toy Railway," and sceptics laughed at the idea that bankers would ever swap their black cabs for a glorified rollercoaster.

West India Docks

The next time you’re visiting Canary Wharf, take a moment to look beyond the towering glass and steel. You are standing in a place with a history that is as rich, complex, and sometimes brutal, as any in London: Welcome to the West India Docks.

Once the beating heart of a global trading empire, these docks tell a fascinating story of ambition, immense wealth, human cost, and ultimate transformation.

Before the West India Docks, the River Thames was a chaotic mess of ships, theft, and congestion. Enter the powerful West India merchants, who successfully lobbied for dedicated, secure docks. The result was the West India Dock Act of 1799, paving the way for a revolutionary development on the Isle of Dogs.

Walking with family and friends: Canary Wharf to Mudchute... and beyond

Erin, Keilyn and Alfie, ready for London.

Saturday April 6, 2024.

With Emma having gone away for the weekend, with her friend, and Gary staying with us, along with his son, Alfie, we decided to take Alfie on his first trip to London.

With lunches packed we set off for the short walk to Watford Metropolitan station, where we caught a train to Finchley Road and then a Jubilee line train to Canary Wharf. Alfie fell asleep as we left Watford and didn't wake until we reached Canary Wharf station. As the train pulled in to Finchley Road Keilyn showed off her 'Mind the Gap' t-shirt to the driver, making him chuckle. 

Leaving Canary Wharf station we took the obligatory photo of everyone in Richard Hudson's 'Tear', which everyone should do when visiting the area.

Mudchute Park and Farm is just a short twenty minute walk from Canary Wharf station, which allowed us to take plenty of photos of the buildings, docks. boats and more.

A quick stop at Asda, to get drinks, use the facilities and for Keilyn to have her photo taken with a postbox.

Crossing the Asda car park brought us to the entrance to Mudchute Park and Farm, just as lunchtime approached, so we sat and had something to eat, before taking Alfie to see the animals. Donkeys, peacocks, rabbits, goats, pigs, chickens, sheep and much more were in the various fields, paddocks, pens and stables.

Greenwich Steam Ferry

The Greenwich Steam Ferry was an engineering feat, but also a commercial failure.

Ferries had operated historically from Greenwich, at Billingsgate Dock, Garden Stairs and elsewhere, to the southern tip of the Isle of Dogs, since at least 1333.

Billingsgate was the main dock in Medieval Greenwich and was home to the large Greenwich fishing fleet, which relocated to Hull and Grimsby in the 1850s. This relocation was, in part, due to the arrival of rail transport. 

The earliest ferry from the Isle of Dogs to Greenwich was called Potter's Ferry, which began in the 17th century. This lucrative route's rights were coveted by Watermen who wished to control the waterways.

Up until 1812, only foot passengers were permitted to be ferried across the River Thames. Following an 1812 Act of Parliament a horse ferry was established.

The building where the ferrymen waited between crossings.

The Billingsgate ferry was replaced after 1821 with one at Horseferry Dock, a little further down river. Billingsgate Dock was widened and enlarged, by an Act of Parliament  in 1850, to help improve the docks use by the public.

These ferries ran until they were closed by the Metropolitan Board of Works Act of 1883. Five years later, in 1888, the Greenwich Steam Ferry began operation.

Johnson's Draw Dock, north bank, close to the pier where passengers embarked on the ferry to Greenwich.

The Greenwich Steam Ferry was an innovative design whereby passengers and vehicles were transported down the foreshore on moving platforms to waiting ferries. This design, although unique in England, was used throughout America and overcame the problem of reaching the ferry at low tide.

Diagrams of the moving platforms and pulley system.

These moving platforms were pulled up and down on cables operated by engines in the cellar of the ferry terminal buildings. These landing platforms could be raised and lowered according to the tide, thus allowing the heavy cargo trucks and carriages to have a smooth access to and from the waiting ferries.

The north ramp for the Potter's Ferry.

Commercial and operational difficulties meant that the Greenwich Steam Ferry was suspended in the 1890s. Then, with the Blackwall Tunnel opening in 1897 and construction of the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, beginning in 1899, the Greenwich Steam Ferry finally closed in 1899.

The ferry terminal building, on the south bank, remained standing until the 1990s.

The ramp on the south foreshore.

Today, all that remains are the concrete ramps, on the north and south foreshores, and the walls on south terminal still retain the three cable ports, used to raise and lower the moving platforms.

'Dock Life Renewed': A talk by photographer Niki Gorick

'Dock Life Renewed' by Niki Gorick.

Thursday March 21, 2024.

It was a little bit of rush to leave work, head home, get changed and walk to Watford Metropolitan station, to catch the train to London. My mum, who had made her way to Croxley station, was waiting on the platform as my train pulled in.

Once aboard we settled down and enjoyed the ride to Finchley Road, where we switched to a Jubilee line train for the rest of our journey to the Isle of Dogs.

Arriving at Canary Wharf station we made our way along Bank Street and on to the South Dock, crossing the South Quay Footbridge to look for somewhere to buy a bite to eat.

Just along South Quay Walk, near Admirals Way, we found a collection of street food vendors. There was Burrito, Chinese, Greek, Indian and Lebanese. We opted for Lebanese, which was tasty and filling. The owner was friendly and obviously took a liking to the two of us, as he gave us a free drink and extra meat on our dishes. 

The Burrito Bro and Steam Momo vans. 

Lebanese street food van.

With our hunger now satisfied, we made our way along South Quay Walk towards the Millwall Cutting and our destination... the Theatreship.

The venue.

After taking the obligatory photos of the surrounding buildings and the Theatreship we boarded the vessel, and made our way downstairs to the bar area. 

'Theatreship', South Quay, Isle of Dogs

Theatreship open for entertainment.

The Theatreship is a new, as of 2024, world-class performing arts space on a historic ship, moored on the Millwall Cutting on the Isle of Dogs. It is the Millwall Cutting that links the South Dock with the Millwall Inner Dock and, until the 1950s, continued to the River Thames via the Millwall Slipway.

I visited the ship just weeks after it opened to hear a talk by Niki Gorick, about her book 'Dock Life Renewed', for which the Theatreship was the perfect venue.

Lovingly restored and fitted with a new spacious interior bar area and an events space, with tiered seating, it is a remarkable piece of renovation and foresight.

A new name for a historic ship.

Brief History

The ship was built in 1913 and weighs 300-tonnes. She began life as a sailing cargo barge, that transported cargo like coal and grain from Europe to London. She would continue in service for over 100 years serving the ports of Northern Europe, before she was retired.

Millwall Slipway

Hydraulic ram.

Historic places can be easily missed, even when walking the streets and roads of London.

It was while wandering along Westferry Road, on the Isle of Dogs, that I found what looked like a car park and an ordinary entranceway to the River Thames.

At first glance it looks like a simple slipway.

What made me stop were the bollards at the top of the ramp. These weren't your typical car park bollards, but ones that I have seen countless times near docks and mooring sites. So, I decided to take a closer look.

Heading down the slipway I saw some obviously old machinery, to my left. On closer inspection I discovered that this was a hydraulic ram, once used for closing the long disappeared lock gates.

Hydraulic ram.

The ramp itself was modern, although, as I approached the foreshore, a portion of the old ramp could be seen almost completely covered by sand, rubble and pieces of clay pipes that litter London's beaches.

Crossrail Place Roof Garden

 

View from the Roof Garden.

One of the more interesting parts of the Canary Wharf development, for me, is the Crossrail Place Roof Garden. 

From the outside it looks reminiscent of the Eden Project, in Cornwall, with huge plastic sheets, supported on the largest timber frame in the UK, covering much of the surface area. The rest is left open to the elements and acts like a giant terrarium. 

Crossrail Place Roof Garden.

Taking the escalator to the roof garden brings you out into a lush forest full of ferns, maples, strawberry and banana trees and much more.

Western ferns.

Port of London Authority (former) Police Station

The Port of London Authority Police Force building.

Wandering around West India Docks there are numerous buildings, some dating from the early 1800s, that have been repurposed following the closure of the import/export docks in the 1980s.

The Museum of London Docklands is housed within one of the original dock buildings, for instance.

Many other buildings were demolished when the area came under regeneration as part of the Docklands Scheme, which saw Canary Wharf constructed and new underground stations built.

The building above is quite interesting, in its own way, as it was the home of the Port of London Authority Police Force from 1914.

Mudchute Park and Farm

A sheep at Mudchute Park and Farm with Canary Wharf in the background.

Sunday July 3, 2022.

I had been meaning to take Erin and Keilyn to Mudchute Park and Farm for quite a while, now, so, as we had nothing else planned, we set off to the station (Metropolitan line to Finchley Road, Jubilee line to Canary Wharf) and began our latest exploratory.

After exiting Canary Wharf station we took a meandering route along the old docks, where yachts and narrowboats were moored, while some people had taken to the still waters in kayaks.

Canary Wharf on a Sunday.

Eventually we found East Ferry Road and made our way around the Asda car park, which brought us to the entrance of Mudchute Park and Farm.

From this entrance you can take a number of routes as the path branches in a number of directions. We took the centre one, which led us past meadows and fields until we reached a Remembrance Garden and a 3.5" Ack-Ack gun. 

Erin and Keilyn with an Ack-Ack anti-aircraft gun.

'The Ferry House'

The Ferry House

Monday May 16, 2022

For the second time in a matter of weeks I found myself back on the Isle of Dogs and back inside The Ferry House pub. This historic pub has been continuously occupied since 1722 and is the oldest on the island and sits on the corner of Ferry Street, from where the ferry to Greenwich departed from the slipway opposite.

Looking out onto the decking and beer garden.

Inside the pub is tastefully decorated and the two bars - saloon and public - that were norm until fairly recently, have been turned into just a single bar. Small rooms with comfy sofas and a large garden make this pub a wonderful place to stop for refreshments.

Walking with friends: Borough Market to the Isle of Dogs... and beyond

With Covid-19 and the various lockdowns putting a pause on my walks with friends, around The Unfinished City, it is great to be able to start them up again.

Saturday April 2, 2022

After a breakfast of Pulled Pork Burger with apple sauce and sage & onion stuffing, from Hobbs in Borough Market, my friend Stephen and I began our first walk of 2022.

Borough Market is a food lovers paradise.

Heading towards the River Thames we made our way through the Contorted Tunnel, which Stephen had never seen, to the basement of Hay's Galleria. Climbing the stairs we headed out on to the embankment, by HMS Belfast, and followed the path to Tower Bridge. 

Tower Bridge and the Girl with a Dolphin.

Taking the eastern pedestrian path, across the bridge, we headed to St Katharine Docks Marina, where various yachts, barges, lifeboats and the Queen's Rowbarge 'Gloriana' were moored. As we rounded one of the buildings I pointed out Stanley Kubrick's original 'Monolith' from 2001: A Space Odyssey, which had been affixed to the wall of one of the buildings, back in 1977.

'Monolith' by Arthur Fleischmann.

From here we headed eastward towards Hermitage Basin and the Ornamental Canal, through Wapping Woods and on to Shadwell Basin. A small area of the basin was being used by Wapping Docklands Market, so we had a look around the different food stalls before heading in to the historic The Prospect of Whitby, for a well-deserved drink.

Our first drink in London together for a number of years.

'SS Great Eastern' Launch Ramp, Isle of Dogs

 

Steam Ship Great Eastern launching chains

Saturday, April 2, 2022

It had long been one of my ideas to walk along the Thames Path around the Isle of Dogs, to take in the historic aspects of the area.

And so, having left Borough Market and crossed the River Thames via Tower Bridge, I made my way through St Katharine Docks to Wapping and on to Limehouse, before finally making it to the Isle of Dogs.

Much of the area around West India Docks, which became disused in the 1980s, were redeveloped between the late 1980s and the 1990s, and became the second financial district for London, commonly known as Canary Wharf.

Continuing on my walk I finally reached one of the most historic places on the Isle of Dogs... Napier Yard and the launch ramp of the SS Great Eastern.

SS Great Eastern launch ramp.

This was the exact spot from where, on January 31, 1858, following thirteen unsuccessful attempts, the SS Great Eastern was launched sideways into the River Thames. 

A model of the SS Great Eastern, in the Museum of London Docklands.

She was the largest ship ever built, at the time, and was the brainchild of Isambard Kingdom Brunel.

Timbers and the dock wall leading to the River Thames.

The slipway had been lost to the ravages of time, but was finally rediscovered in 1984 when redevelopments took place in the area. As the timbers were uncovered they were sprayed with water before they could be injected with a preservative.

Preserved for Posterity.

The reason for the thirteen unsuccessful attempts stems from the fact that two slipways were required, rather than the usual one. Both slipways had to be at an identical height to carry the weight of the 12,000 tonne ship, but a miscalculation made the slipway at the bow of the ship being steeper than that at the stern.

A history of the SS Great Eastern.

Also, if you visit the Brunel Museum in Rotherhithe, you will find an original grinding wheel, from the Great Eastern Yard.

An original grinding wheel from Great Eastern Yard, now at the Brunel Museum, Rotherhithe.

Museum of London Docklands

The past lives on.

Friday August 3, 2018.

Having visited the Museum of London, on a number of occasions, I thought that it was about time that we took some time to visit her sister museum, in London's Docklands. It was a pleasant summer morning as we approached Warehouse No. 1, which which has been fully restored and now houses the Museum.

Covering the full history of the River Thames and the docks, from the first Roman port, through the 1600s and on to the present day, all of its unique history is here.

On our visit there was a special exhibition entitled Roman Dead. This included many Roman remains that had been unearthed throughout the City. Some of them had only been discovered in the last few years, with the deep excavations undertaken in the construction of Crossrail.

Since we all enjoyed the visit so much, and with there being plenty of time left in the day, we took the Docklands Light Railway to Bank station, before making our way to the Museum of London. Thus visiting both museums, in one day.

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