'John Betjeman' by Martin Jennings

To mark the opening of St Pancras International as the terminus for the High-Speed rail link, between London and Europe, a statue of Sir John Betjeman was unveiled.

John Betjeman had been an advocate of Victorian architecture and, in the 1960s, had campaigned to have St Pancras station, and the adjacent hotel, saved from demolition.

Sir John Betjeman CBE (1906-1984).

Born in London he lived in Gospel Oak until the family moved to Highgate, in 1909. T.S. Eliot was one of John's early tutors, at Highgate School. Following this he was sent to boarding school at Dragon School preparatory school, Oxford, and then Marlborough College, Wiltshire. He left Marlborough College in 1925.

His next education came when he entered Magdalen College at the University of Oxford, where one of his tutors was C.S. Lewis. Neither men seemed to get on, with C.S. Lewis stating that "Betjeman would not achieve honours in any class." Betjeman was expelled from Oxford, in 1928, after failing the Pass school and only achieving a satisfactory result in one of three required papers, Shakespeare and other English authors.

Between 1930-1935 Betjeman worked for the Architectural Review as an assistant editor.

Victorian Turkish Bath House, Bishopsgate

It is quite a juxtaposition to walk through the City of London, with its glass office blocks, concrete buildings and shops, to then find yourself facing at a Turkish style Victorian Bath House.

These were once very common, in the late 1800s, but, as far as I can find, this is the last of its kind, in London.

So why is it here and when and why was it built?

During the early to mid 1800s London's population tripled to over 3 million residents, bringing with it many problems, including housing issues, which led to health and hygiene problems.

To try and solve this the Baths and Washhouses Act of 1846 was introduced, which encouraged local authorities to provide adequate public washing and bathing facilities.

While many washhouses were large buildings that could be used by many people, the more affluent residents wanted something more to their taste.

Enter David Urquhart. As a diplomat Mr Urquhart had visited Moorish Spain, Greece and Turkey and suggested the use of 'Turkish Baths', a phrase that he coined, in 1850. He claimed that these baths could cure alcoholism, baldness, cholera, constipation and dementia, all of which was unfounded.

Urquhart oversaw the building of many of these Turkish Baths and, in 1860, Roger Evans, a colleague of Urquhart's, opened the first of these Turkish Baths at 5 Bell Street, near Marble Arch.

Walking with family and friends: Aldgate to Canary Wharf... and beyond

Saturday January 25, 2025.

Another Saturday and another trip to London was in order.

Up. Dressed. Keilyn and I take an Uber to the station. Meet Steve. Underground to Finchley Road. Underground to Aldgate.

Reaching the end of the line, Steve, Keilyn and I left Aldgate station and immediately grabbed a hot drink from the coffee shop outside the station. Then, with drinks in hand, we set off... heading east.

Heading along Aldgate High Street we crossed St Botolph Street and continued along Whitechapel High Street and onto Whitechapel Road, soon coming to Whitechapel Market, with its hustle and bustle and aromatic smells.

We passed the old Whitechapel Dell Foundry, the Royal London Hospital and the Blind Beggar pub, briefly toying with the idea of heading south, through Shadwell to the River Thames, but instead continued east along Mile End Road.

Statues, sculptures and fascinating architecture lined our route with Trinity Green and its Almshouses being a highlight, with stone ships mounted atop the ends of the Almshouses.

We continued our walk, passing Stepney Green station and the huge campus that is Queen Mary University of London, until we reached The Regent's Canal.

Realising that we would soon end up on Stratford or Ilford, if Keilyn had her way, we decided to join the towpath and follow the canal to the River Thames.

Swans, coots, moorhens, ducks and geese were happily gliding along the still water surface, while Herons stood on the bank, or stood motionless in Mile End Park, oblivious to the joggers and families using the space.

We passed the Ragged School Museum, with its cafe full of patrons, and continued alongside the canal until we reached Limehouse Basin, with its myriad barges, boats and yachts.

From here it was a short walk through Ropemakers Fields to Narrow Street, using the bridge to cross Limekiln Dock, to reach Limehouse Hole Stairs. As the tide was out we dropped down onto the small beach and enjoyed the unseasonably warm heat of the sun.

As we climbed back up to street level I could just make out a conversation between a young woman and a much older man, but there was no one around that matched the sounds. Joggers were plugged into their devices, while families were pointing out the sights. As I stood and listened I realised that the voices were coming from a silver bench. Sitting down I realised that it was a recorded interview about life on the docks, being played through speakers at either end of the bench. It is such a clever idea.

We continued along Loverose Way before crossing onto Heron Quays Road, making our way around Middle Dock, heading for the Henry Addington pub, where we would have dinner.

Special Operations Executive Agents Memorial & Violette Szabo

This bronze bust of Violette Szabo, on the Albert Embankment, just yards from the Headquarters of the British Special Intelligence Service (MI6), commemorates the secret agents who led covert operations against the Nazis.

This monument was commissioned by the Public Memorials Appeal.

S. O. E.

The Special Operations Executive was secretly formed for the purpose of recruiting agents, men and women of many nationalities, who would volunteer to continue the fight for freedom, by performing acts of sabotage in countries occupied by the enemy during the Second World War.

This monument is in honour of all the courageous S.O.E. Agents: those who did survive and those who did not survive their perilous missions. Their services were beyond the call of duty. In the pages of history their names are carved with pride.

The Heroes of Telemark.

In 1943 Norwegian resistance commandos sponsored by the S.O.E. raided the enemy occupied Norsk Hydro Plant in the Telemark region of Norway.

This successful raid sabotaged the machinery that was producing heavy water, which is used in the manufacture of the Atomic Bomb.

Thanks to those Norwegian Commandos the enemy's attempt to develop the Atomic Bomb was thwarted.

The Maquis French resistance fighters.

470 S.O.E. agents were sent on sabotage missions to occupied France where they fought with networks of French resistance fighters who played an important part in the liberation of France in 1944.

Violette Szabo.

Violette Bushell was born in Paris, France, in 1921, before her family moved to England. At the outbreak of World War II, she joined the Women's Land Army and the Auxiliary Territorial Service, where she met Étienne Szabo, a Free French corps soldier. They were married and she bore him a daughter, Tanis, in 1942. That same year Étienne was killed in action at the battle of El-Alamein. 

It was this event that led her to join the Special Operations Executive intelligence agency, which, at the time, had its headquarters on Baker Street.

Walking with family and friends: King's Cross to Hampstead Heath... and beyond

Saturday January 18, 2025.

Keilyn and I headed off to London, earlier than usual, as we were to meet my friend who was travelling to King's Cross from Peterborough.

As we reached Northwick Park Keilyn took a photo of one of only four remaining K8 telephone boxes left on the London Underground.

Our timing was almost perfect with Keilyn and I exiting onto King's Cross plaza just ten minutes after Gary. After a walk through St Pancras International we began our walk. 

We headed north along Midland Road and onto Pancras Road, where we stopped at St Pancras Old Church to see the remains of the Hardy Tree. The graves that the ash once stood over are now covered in weeds, while the Hardy Tree lies in pieces on the grass. Such a loss.

We left St Pancras Gardens and followed Camley Street which led us to Murray Street, our route taking us ever northward. Camden Square brought us onto Camden Road, where we turned onto Royal College Street. It was here we discovered 'Dots Music'. The steps, to the shop, were painted like piano keys, so Keilyn pretended to play them.

Up Royal College Street we went, before finding ourselves on Kentish Town Road where we stopped to grab a hot drink each, from an independent coffee stall.

After spotting a camel, on Highgate Road, we noticed a LFB Fire Investigation van, with its occupant in a white coverall, which fascinated Keilyn. We passed Parliament Hill School and William Ellis School, before we turned in to Hampstead Heath, where school children of all ages were playing rugby, while their parents watched on. Other people were using the running track as we dodged the joggers and dog walkers.

We left Hampstead Heath, via Savernake Bridge, and headed along Roderick Road, at the end of which, on the other side of Mansfield Road, was the London School of Mosaic, which is situated in 'Waxham House'. It was here that we made the mistake of turning left, following Mansfield Road onto Gordon House Road. Eventually we reached Highgate Road, where we turned left. Keilyn started laughing as we approached a LFB Fire Investigation van, with its occupant in a white coverall, as she had realised, long before us, that we had taken so many left turns that we had completed a circle!