Thursday, August 13, 2026

Tower Hill Sundial

Tower Hill Sundial

The Tower Hill Sundial is a unique, ground-level horizontal dial located just outside the Tower Hill Underground Station in London. Functioning as both a functional timekeeper and an intricate pictorial history book, the monument details nearly 2,000 years of the city's past.

Commissioned by London Underground Ltd, the site was unveiled on August 3, 1992, transforming an empty plaza space into a designated public garden and seating area. The space was envisioned by landscape architect John Chitty, who conceived the idea of a giant sundial at its centre, while the renowned English sculptor Edwin Russell was commissioned to bring the historical reliefs to life. Today, the gardens serve as a circular, raised viewing platform overlooking the Tower of London, where tour groups regularly convene to take in the history over the road.

Design and Historical Highlights

At the centre of the dial, just below the large gnomon, sits a prominent bronze anchor, a nod to the dial's close proximity to the River Thames and the historic Pool of London. Radiating outward from this centre is a 3.7 metre (12.14 feet) high bronze band circumscribed by detailed high-relief sculptures.

Part of the relief showing the first half of the twentieth century

This outer ring winds chronologically through the history of London and its transport system, stretching from the founding of the Roman city of Londinium in AD 43 right through to the completion of the Thames Barrier in 1982. The reliefs depict iconic milestones, including the construction of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, the early omnibus services, and the devastating impacts of the Great Fire and the Blitz.

Walking with family and friends: St John's Wood to King's Cross... and beyond

The Regent's Canal

Tuesday August 11, 2026
Sunny with a high of 26°C (78.8°F)

Yesterday my family, myself and our friend Steve should have been on a flight to Lanzarote, for a well deserved holiday. Unfortunately, due to issues at the hotel, and with no other options available, our holiday was cancelled. But, we will get the money back and we still have great weather here in the UK. With that in mind, Steve, Erin and myself decided to head off to London.

Erin and I met up with Steve at Watford underground station, where we boarded a Baker Street-bound train, that we took to Finchley Road. From here we crossed the platform and continued our journey to St John's Wood, via the Jubilee line.

Thirteen coal hole plates

On exiting the station we headed south along Finchley Road, before turning along Circus Road, where we stopped at the Tesco Express to grab some snacks and extra drinks. From here we travelled along St John's Wood High Street where I discovered well-kept rows of coal hole covers. Usually these have been removed or worn away. But here, there were rows of up to thirteen covers still in situ. St John's Wood High Street brought us to Prince Albert Road, where we joined the Regent's Canal at the North Gate.

The towpath was remarkably quiet as we made our way eastward, passing beneath the Macclesfield 'Blow Up' Bridge before passing by the Snowdon Aviary. The aviary, opened in 1965, was Britain's first walk-through aviary. housing many exotic birds. Today it has been reimagined, following a multi-million pound renovation, and is now called Monkey Valley, and is home to eastern black-and-white colobus monkeys. As we passed we could see the monkeys with their bushy white tails, munching on branches and clambering along ropes.

Monday, August 10, 2026

Mark Lane (former) Underground Station

You can still make out 'Mark Lane Station Entrance'

Many of London's abandoned or 'ghost' stations can be seen all over the city. Although some have completely disappeared above ground, like Lord's station, they are usually easy to spot because most of them were housed in the tell-tale oxblood tiled buildings designed by Leslie Green.

Mark Lane, however, is different. It didn’t have those lovely tiles, instead being housed in a stately, stone-faced building. Because of this, many people walk right by this building, or sit inside with a drink, without ever noticing the clues to its previous life.

A Tangled Underground Timeline

Mark Lane station stairs

The story begins in 1882, when the Metropolitan Railway opened an underground station called the 'Tower of London'. Between 1882 and 1884, Byward Street was laid out, cutting through the existing Great Tower Street toward Trinity Square in alignment with the railway line below.

Thursday, August 06, 2026

London's Bandstands

Hyde Park Bandstand

Wandering through London's many parks you will discover that many of them still have bandstands. But, what brought about their construction and are they still as important today?

The story of London's bandstands is a fascinating look into Victorian social engineering, military history, and the evolution of public entertainment. They were far more than just pretty park ornaments, they were the focal points of working-class leisure.

Here is how they came to dominate not just London's green spaces, but the rest of the country, too.

The Victorian Boom

A wooden bandstand

Before the mid-1800s, London’s royal parks were largely the playground of the wealthy. However, as the Industrial Revolution packed people into dense, smoky urban centres, Victorian reformers realised the working class desperately needed "rational recreation". Meaning wholesome, outdoor activities to keep them out of the gin palaces.

Music was the perfect answer, but early performances suffered because musicians had to play on the grass or temporary wooden stages where the sound simply drifted away.

Monday, August 03, 2026

St Olave's Church, Hart Street

St Olave's Church

Tucked away in the heart of London sits St Olave Hart Street, one of the precious few medieval churches to miraculously survive the Great Fire of 1666. While the surrounding city crumbled into ash, St Olave’s stood firm. Today, it remains a captivating time capsule, boasting direct connections to the Black Plague, the American Revolution, and legendary writers.

Here is the incredible story of a sanctuary that has weathered nearly a thousand years of British history.

From Viking Warrior to Stone Sanctuary (1014–1450)

St Olaf

The deep roots of St Olave’s stretch back to a bloody battle for the throne of England. In 1014, Olaf Haraldsson, a Norwegian king, supported the English King Ethelred "the Unready" in a fierce battle at London Bridge to reclaim the city from the pagan Danes. Olaf, who had been baptised into the Christian faith in Rouen, France, was later canonised as the patron saint and "Perpetual King" of Norway.

Local legend suggests that St Olave’s Church was built right on the site of that historic battle. Around AD 1050, the first church was erected here as a humble timber structure. As London grew, the church grew with it; it was rebuilt in stone during the 13th century, and expanded again in 1450 under the wealthy patronage of Richard Cely, a prominent wool merchant. Visitors today can still step down into the eerie, atmospheric crypt that dates entirely from this medieval era.

Thursday, July 30, 2026

The Final Voyage of HMS President (1918): From WWI Q-Ship to the Scrapyard

HMS President (1918) on the River Thames in 2015

History and Strategic Role

Launched on January 29th 1918 as HMS Saxifrage by Lobnitz & Company in Scotland, HMS President (1918) was a Flower-class Q-ship built during the First World War. Designed as a disguised merchant vessel meant to lure German U-boats to the surface before unmasking hidden 4-inch naval guns, she served as a direct ancestor to modern anti-submarine frigates and Second World War convoy escorts. 

Recognised as one of only three surviving Royal Navy warships from the First World War and granted the official suffix "(1918)" to distinguish her from the later shore establishment in St Katharine Docks, she spent decades as a celebrated London landmark before structural deterioration and unsuccessful rescue campaigns ultimately led to her being towed to a scrapyard in July 2026.

Tuesday, July 28, 2026

Walking with friends: Finsbury Park to Highgate... and beyond

Looking across London from Hampstead Heath

Sunday July 26, 2026.
Partly cloudy with a high of 24°C (75°F) with the chance of light rain in the morning.

I had arranged to meet up with my friend Steve for a walk in London, so I was up, ready and out of the house by 08:30, making the short walk to Watford Underground station. Steve had arrived just before me, so there was no waiting around. We headed through the ticket barriers, down the stairs and boarded the Baker Street bound train that was preparing to leave from Platform 2.

Soon we were speeding through the Hertfordshire countryside towards London. Approaching Northwood a few spots of rain began to pepper the windows of the train, but it didn't last. As we pulled into Harrow-on-the-Hill station, the heritage railway locomotive 'Sarah Siddons' was waiting to take passengers to Amersham. Unfortunately, because of where we were seated, and the fact that another train was at the next platform, I was unable to take a photo. 

Arriving at Finchley Road we exited the train and waited 6-minutes for an Aldgate train. When it arrived it was almost full to capacity, filled with foreign students and teachers. Fortunately, we were only going as far as King's Cross St Pancras, so we were happy to stand. At King's Cross St Pancras we left the train and headed along the platform, following the signs for the Victoria line. Up countless stairs, along corridors, down escalators we travelled, until we finally reached the Northbound platform, where the train pulled away right after we boarded. The train whisked us north-eastwards below the streets of Highbury & Islington, before turning north beneath Canonbury and Highbury, before we arrived at our starting location of Finsbury Park.

Me with the silhouette statue of Edith Garrud

Our first stop was at the 'Portrait Bench', which consists of three silhouettes. DJ, record producer and founder of Soul II Soul, Jazzy B. Florence Keen, who founded the North Islington Welfare Centre and School for Mothers, in 1913. At that time over 10% of local children died before their 5th birthday. Her work reduced that death rate considerably. Edith Margaret Garrud, who was born in 1872. She was a member of the Suffragette movement and taught the women martial arts, specifically Ju Jitsu, so that they could fight off police officers. She was the first British teacher in the art of Ju Jitsu and the first female martial arts instructor in the western world. She died in 1971. It was the latter statue that I was most interested in, having studied Ju Jitsu myself.