Mark Lane (former) Underground Station

Many of London's abandoned or 'ghost' stations can be seen all over the city. Although some have completely disappeared above ground, like Lord's station, they are usually easy to spot because most of them were housed in the tell-tale oxblood tiled buildings designed by Leslie Green.

Mark Lane, however, is different. It didn’t have those lovely tiles, instead being housed in a stately, stone-faced building. Because of this, many people walk right by this building, or sit inside with a drink, without ever noticing the clues to its previous life.

A Tangled Underground Timeline

The story begins in 1882, when the Metropolitan Railway opened an underground station called the 'Tower of London'. Between 1882 and 1884, Byward Street was laid out, cutting through the existing Great Tower Street toward Trinity Square in alignment with the railway line below.

London's Bandstands

Wandering through London's many parks you will discover that many of them still have bandstands. But, what brought about their construction and are they still as important today?

The story of London's bandstands is a fascinating look into Victorian social engineering, military history, and the evolution of public entertainment. They were far more than just pretty park ornaments, they were the focal points of working-class leisure.

Here is how they came to dominate not just London's green spaces, but the rest of the country, too.

The Victorian Boom

Before the mid-1800s, London’s royal parks were largely the playground of the wealthy. However, as the Industrial Revolution packed people into dense, smoky urban centres, Victorian reformers realised the working class desperately needed "rational recreation". Meaning wholesome, outdoor activities to keep them out of the gin palaces.

Music was the perfect answer, but early performances suffered because musicians had to play on the grass or temporary wooden stages where the sound simply drifted away.

St Olave's Church, Hart Street

Tucked away in the heart of London sits St Olave Hart Street, one of the precious few medieval churches to miraculously survive the Great Fire of 1666. While the surrounding city crumbled into ash, St Olave’s stood firm. Today, it remains a captivating time capsule, boasting direct connections to the Black Plague, the American Revolution, and legendary writers.

Here is the incredible story of a sanctuary that has weathered nearly a thousand years of British history.

From Viking Warrior to Stone Sanctuary (1014–1450)

The deep roots of St Olave’s stretch back to a bloody battle for the throne of England. In 1014, Olaf Haraldsson, a Norwegian king, supported the English King Ethelred "the Unready" in a fierce battle at London Bridge to reclaim the city from the pagan Danes. Olaf, who had been baptised into the Christian faith in Rouen, France, was later canonised as the patron saint and "Perpetual King" of Norway.

Local legend suggests that St Olave’s Church was built right on the site of that historic battle. Around AD 1050, the first church was erected here as a humble timber structure. As London grew, the church grew with it; it was rebuilt in stone during the 13th century, and expanded again in 1450 under the wealthy patronage of Richard Cely, a prominent wool merchant. Visitors today can still step down into the eerie, atmospheric crypt that dates entirely from this medieval era.

The Final Voyage of HMS President (1918): From WWI Q-Ship to the Scrapyard

History and Strategic Role

Launched on January 29th 1918 as HMS Saxifrage by Lobnitz & Company in Scotland, HMS President (1918) was a Flower-class Q-ship built during the First World War. Designed as a disguised merchant vessel meant to lure German U-boats to the surface before unmasking hidden 4-inch naval guns, she served as a direct ancestor to modern anti-submarine frigates and Second World War convoy escorts. 

Recognised as one of only three surviving Royal Navy warships from the First World War and granted the official suffix "(1918)" to distinguish her from the later shore establishment in St Katharine Docks, she spent decades as a celebrated London landmark before structural deterioration and unsuccessful rescue campaigns ultimately led to her being towed to a scrapyard in July 2026.

Walking with friends: Finsbury Park to Highgate... and beyond

Sunday July 26, 2026.

Partly cloudy with a high of 24°C (75°F) with the chance of light rain in the morning.

I had arranged to meet up with my friend Steve for a walk in London, so I was up, ready and out of the house by 08:30, making the short walk to Watford Underground station. Steve had arrived just before me, so there was no waiting around. We headed through the ticket barriers, down the stairs and boarded the Baker Street bound train that was preparing to leave from Platform 2.

Soon we were speeding through the Hertfordshire countryside towards London. Approaching Northwood a few spots of rain began to pepper the windows of the train, but it didn't last. As we pulled into Harrow-on-the-Hill station, the heritage railway locomotive 'Sarah Siddons' was waiting to take passengers to Amersham. Unfortunately, because of where we were seated, and the fact that another train was at the next platform, I was unable to take a photo. 

Arriving at Finchley Road we exited the train and waited 6-minutes for an Aldgate train. When it arrived it was almost full to capacity, filled with foreign students and teachers. Fortunately, we were only going as far as King's Cross St Pancras, so we were happy to stand. At King's Cross St Pancras we left the train and headed along the platform, following the signs for the Victoria line. Up countless stairs, along corridors, down escalators we travelled, until we finally reached the Northbound platform, where the train pulled away right after we boarded. The train whisked us north-eastwards below the streets of Highbury & Islington, before turning north beneath Canonbury and Highbury, before we arrived at our starting location of Finsbury Park.

Our first stop was at the 'Portrait Bench', which consists of three silhouettes. DJ, record producer and founder of Soul II Soul, Jazzy B. Florence Keen, who founded the North Islington Welfare Centre and School for Mothers, in 1913. At that time over 10% of local children died before their 5th birthday. Her work reduced that death rate considerably. Edith Margaret Garrud, who was born in 1872. She was a member of the Suffragette movement and taught the women martial arts, specifically Ju Jitsu, so that they could fight off police officers. She was the first British teacher in the art of Ju Jitsu and the first female martial arts instructor in the western world. She died in 1971. It was the latter statue that I was most interested in, having studied Ju Jitsu myself.

Sustrans Portrait Benches

Keilyn with a traditional canal horse, in Mile End Park.

Wandering through London as I do, I often see remarkable architecture, hidden gems, and places not written about in any guidebook. It was during one of these walks, from Aldgate to Canary Wharf, that I saw my first 'Portrait Bench'.

These installations feature functional benches placed alongside life-size silhouettes crafted from weathering steel, which slowly develops a beautiful, rust-like patina over time. This particular bench featured the likenesses of footballer Ledley King, suffragette Sylvia Pankhurst, and a traditional canal horse.

Cormorant and bicycle.

On another more recent walk, where I walked from Canada to Russia, I discovered a second installation. The figures here depicted Phyllis Pearsell (creator of the first A-Z map of London), actor Michael Caine, and a cormorant and bicycle representing Barry Mason, a local cycling campaigner and birdwatcher.

The Docklands Light Railway

The Docklands Light Railway is the unsung hero of London transit, and I shall prove it.

Today, it is a sleek, driverless marvel handling over 100 million passenger journeys a year. But back in the 1980s it was a low-budget experiment that critics confidently predicted would be an absolute disaster.

Here is the story of how London’s futuristic "toy train" grew up to save the East End.

1987: The "Toy Railway" Opens for Business

By the early 1980s, London’s historic Docklands were in a sorry state. The shipping industry had moved downstream, leaving behind miles of derelict, silent quays. The government wanted to transform the Isle of Dogs into a shiny new financial district, what we now know as Canary Wharf, but there was a massive problem: nobody could get there.

Building a standard Underground line was deemed way too expensive. The solution? A cheap, cheerful, "light" railway utilising abandoned railway viaducts.

When Queen Elizabeth II officially opened the DLR in August 1987, it was... modest.

• It had just 11 trains and 15 stations.
• The trains were tiny single-car units that were compared to 'Lego' blocks.
• The original stations were so basic they didn't even have roofs to protect passengers from the classic British rain.

The media immediately dubbed it the "Toy Railway," and sceptics laughed at the idea that bankers would ever swap their black cabs for a glorified rollercoaster.

Chinese Summerhouse, Victoria Park

From the early 18th century through to the late 19th century Chinese fashion, or Chinoiserie, was extremely popular in English gardens and parks. 

Two famous examples of Chinese-style pagodas that are still standing, are the Pagoda at Kew Gardens, built by Sir William Chambers, in 1760, and a cast iron Chinese Bell Tower, built between 1826 and 1832 by the Coalbrookdale Iron Company, which was installed as a fountain in the gardens at Alton towers.

The Chinese Summerhouse, at Victoria Park, was built in Knightsbridge in the traditional manner and was installed within Hyde Park as part of the Chinese Collection Exhibition of 1842. It cost £800. The 'Illustrated London News' described it as,

"It is of two stories; the veranda roof of the lower one being supported by vermilion-coloured columns, with pure white capitals, and over the doorway is inscribed, in Chinese characters, "Ten Thousand Chinese Things". Such summer-houses are usual in the gardens of the wealthy, in the southern provinces of China, often standing in the midst of a sheet of water, and approached by bridges and sometimes they have mother-of-pearl windows. Although this building is raised from the pathway, whence it is approached by a flight of steps, it is somewhat squatty proportioned. But such is the character of Chinese buildings."

Metro-land

Metro-Land: Modern Homes in Beautiful Countryside

Imagine escaping the choking smog, dense crowds, and relentless noise of 1920s London. Now imagine wrapping up your workday in the heart of the city, stepping onto a steam train, and being whisked away to a brand-new, semi-detached villa nestled in the rolling green hills of Buckinghamshire or Middlesex.

This wasn’t just a daydream for thousands of middle-class Londoners, it was one of the most successful, romanticised, and brilliantly executed marketing campaigns in British history. Welcome to Metro-land.

The Birth of a Suburbia

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Metropolitan Railway was expanding northwest out of central London. But unlike other railway companies, the Metropolitan Railway possessed a unique legal privilege: it was allowed to retain surplus land alongside its tracks.

When the railway extended deep into the countryside of Middlesex, Hertfordshire, and Buckinghamshire, the company realised they had a golden opportunity. They didn't just want to transport people who already lived there; they wanted to build the communities that would populate their trains.

Cremorne Pleasure Gardens, Chelsea (1846-1877)

The Rise and Scandalous Fall of Chelsea’s Cremorne Gardens

If you wander down to the banks of the River Thames in Chelsea today, near the shadow of the old Lots Road Power Station, you’ll find a quiet, half-acre park called Cremorne Gardens. It’s a peaceful spot to watch the river. But if you could step back into the mid-19th century, this exact patch of land was the epicentre of London’s wildest, loudest, and most scandalous nightlife.  

Spanning twelve acres from the King’s Road down to the river, the original Cremorne Pleasure Gardens (1846–1877) was a Victorian wonderland where for just one shilling, anyone could escape the grim, smoky reality of industrial London.

London Underground versus The World

Everyone knows that London has the oldest underground rail system in the world. But did you know that it also launched the world's first deep-level electric line back in 1890?

While the iconic network once set the global standard, modern systems in Asia and traditional rivals in Europe and North America now surpass it in specific areas like scale, accessibility, and technology.

Let's take a look at how the London Underground holds up against other major transit grids around the world.

The Weight of History: Age and Architecture

Opening in 1863, the London Underground pioneered subterranean transit. However, being the world’s very first underground railway comes with a literal tight squeeze.

Because London's deep-level lines were bored in the late 19th and early 20th centuries using tiny, primitive tunnelling shields, they are famously circular and narrow, hence the nickname "the Tube."

This historic design makes retrofitting modern luxuries incredibly difficult. For instance, putting air conditioning on deep lines like the Central or Bakerloo line is an engineering nightmare because there is simply nowhere for the hot air to escape in the tight tunnels, turning them into notorious subterranean saunas during the summer.

Traditional rivals like the Paris Métro (1900) and the New York City Subway (1904) share some of these legacy spacing issues. Meanwhile, mega-systems built in the late 20th and 21st centuries, like the Seoul Subway or the Dubai Metro, boast massive, airy, cavernous tunnels designed from day one to handle high ceilings, sweeping crowds, and full climate control.

Kensal Green Cemetery (General Cemetery of All Souls)

The General Cemetery of All Souls was the first of the eight private garden cemeteries to open, between 1833 and 1845.

Amidst the sprawl of North Kensington lies a 72-acre sanctuary where the grand, the eccentric, and the entirely bizarre rest side by side. Opened in 1833, Kensal Green Cemetery holds the crown as the oldest of London’s 'Magnificent Eight' Victorian burial grounds.

Before its creation, London was facing a macabre crisis: its inner-city parish churchyards were dangerously overflowing, prompting a desperate need for sanitary, suburban alternatives. Inspired by the elegant Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, barrister George Frederick Carden envisioned a secure, picturesque 'garden cemetery' that would double as a public park.

The concept was a roaring success. When Prince Augustus Frederick (a son of King George III) chose to be buried here in 1843, rather than at Windsor, Kensal Green instantly became the most fashionable place in the British Empire to be laid to rest. Wealthy Victorians flocked to outdo one another with towering Gothic monuments, neoclassical columns, and theatrical mausoleums. 

Today, it remains a wildly atmospheric labyrinth of history.

Walking with family: Canada to Russia... and beyond

Friday July 3, 2026.

Sunny with a high of 27°C (80.6°F).

As I had the day off work, I had arranged to visit London with my uncle Martin in an attempt to "walk around the world".

I made the short walk to my uncle's house, from where he drove us to Croxley station to catch our Metropolitan line train. Unfortunately, there was a points failure near Wembley Park, so our train would terminate at Harrow-on-the-Hill, from where we would have to board a different train to complete our journey.

We only had to wait for two minutes at Harrow-on-the-Hill station for the next southbound train, which whisked us onwards to Finchley Road, where we boarded a Jubilee line train to complete our journey.

On leaving our destination station, we purchased coffee from the 'Nonna Anna' kiosk, just outside Canada Water station, before beginning our epic trek around the world.

Canada

We entered Deal Porter Square and headed to Canada Water, where we traversed this body of water via the newly installed Rafter Walk boardwalk, which winds along its western edge. In its heyday, Canada Water, then known as Canada Dock, was almost three times the size of what it is now, with much of it being filled in during the regeneration of the area.

We then joined Surrey Quays Road, with Canada Pond and Quebec Pond, now filled in, to our left, before we joined Redriff Road and crossed the border from Canada to Greenland, via the Greenland Dock Bascule Bridge.

Metropolitan Police

Rise of the Redbreasts and Bobbies: The Men Who Built London’s Police

Long before Sir Robert Peel’s "Bobbies" took to the streets in 1829, London was an incredibly dangerous place. Policing was left to corrupt "thief-takers", bounty hunters working strictly for reward money, and elderly parish watchmen who were easily outrun by criminals. If you were robbed in eighteenth-century London, you were largely on your own, until the Bow Street Runners changed everything.

Formed in 1749, the Runners were London’s very first professional, state-funded law enforcement body. By operating as a cohesive unit, they fundamentally shifted how society viewed the responsibility of public safety.

The Blind Magistrate and the Novelist

Surprisingly, the force wasn't created by a politician, but by a famous author: Henry Fielding, who wrote the classic novel 'Tom Jones'. After being appointed as the Chief Magistrate at Bow Street Magistrates’ Court near Covent Garden, Fielding was horrified by the lawlessness of the city. He recruited six trustworthy, energetic constables, providing them with proper training and a small government stipend.

When Henry passed away in 1754, his blind half-brother, Sir John Fielding, took over as Magistrate. Known affectionately as the "Blind Beak," John famously developed an uncanny ability to identify over 3,000 thieves simply by the sound of their voices. Under his visionary leadership, the Bow Street Runners grew into an official, highly organised force.

Stainer Street, London Bridge

Stainer Street was once a traffic tunnel, that was dimly lit and where few pedestrians would dare to linger.

It was closed during the refurbishment and enlargement of London Bridge station and reopened as a pedestrianised thoroughfare, still linking St Thomas Street with Tooley Street, but also allowing for passengers to traverse from the mainline station to the London Underground.

Three glass cups, etched with abstract patterns and containing messages, now hang above the pathway, and are entitled 'Me. Here. Now.' by Mark Titchner. The messages read:

"One foot in front of the other"

"The distance means nothing"

"Only the first step is difficult"

But, you could reverse this, depending on which way through the tunnel you are walking.

Brompton Cemetery (West of London and Westminster Cemetery)

The West of London and Westminster Cemetery was the fifth of the eight private garden cemeteries to open.

Opened in 1840, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, it was originally designed by Stephen Geary, but he was replaced by Benjamin Baud who designed a more formal layout, including the central avenue and domed chapel.

Brompton Cemetery is the only Crown Cemetery and as such is managed by The Royal Parks. It is still in operation.

Amidst the bustling, affluent sprawl of West London lies an island of absolute stillness.

Established in 1840, Brompton Cemetery is one of the capital’s famed 'Magnificent

Eight' Victorian burial grounds, constructed to rescue a rapidly growing 19th-century

London from the hazardous, overflowing state of its parish churchyards.

London's Mews

London's Mews: From Stables to Private Residences

With over 2,000 years of history, London is an intricate lattice of architectural marvels. A place where the Roman, Medieval, Norman, Gothic, Tudor, Elizabethan, Georgian, Regency, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Modernist and Brutalist can all be found.

Often you can find two, three or four architectural styles standing beside each other, with centuries separating the styles. A prime example of this is St Andrew Undershaft church, which was built between 1520-1532, standing almost next door to 30 St Mary Axe (the Gherkin), which was built between 2001-2003.

Metropolitan Police Marine Policing Unit

The Marine Policing Unit (MPU) is one of the most fascinating corners of London’s law enforcement history. While Robert Peel’s "bobbies" took to the streets in 1829, London’s river police were already decades into the job. In fact, they are recognised as the oldest continuously serving police force in the world.  

Today, they are the waterborne arm of the Met, swapping heavy boots for lifejackets and pavement beats for 47 miles of the River Thames.

The Shocking Origin: The Marine Police Office (1798)

In the late 18th century, London's docks were absolute chaos. The Port of London was the busiest in the world, and an estimated £500,000 worth of imported cargo, which was a staggering sum at the time, was being stolen every year by organised river pirates and corrupt dockworkers.  

Whitechapel Bell Foundry

Voice of the East End: The Cast-Bronze History of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry

Think about the most iconic sounds of history: the deep, resonant chime of London’s Big Ben, or the sharp, historic ring of America’s Liberty Bell. Now, imagine a single, humble workshop in London’s East End responsible for creating both of them.

Welcome to the story of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry, a place that did not just witness history, but actively cast it in bronze.

Four Centuries of Heavy Metal

Before its doors closed, the Whitechapel Bell Foundry held a Guinness World Record as the oldest manufacturing company in Great Britain. While its famous home on Whitechapel Road was established in the eighteenth century, the foundry's origins trace all the way back to 1570, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. Some historians even argue that its lineage stretches back to a 1420 workshop in Houndsditch known as the Lester & Pack Bell Foundry.

For nearly four and a half centuries, through the Great Fire of 1666, the Blitz of World War II, and the rise and fall of global empires, the foundry kept its furnaces burning. Early in its history, the workshop secured its legendary reputation by casting the historic bells for Westminster Abbey.

Walking with family: Embankment to Gabriel's Wharf... and beyond

Saturday June 13, 2026.

Partly cloudy with a high of 22°C (71.6°F).

Today marks the official birthday of His Majesty King Charles III, which involves the Trooping of the Colour parade, a 41-gun salute, and a flypast by the Royal Air Force. It was the latter that my uncle Martin and I headed off to London to see.

Martin picked me up and we made the short drive to Croxley station, where we boarded a Metropolitan line train that would only take us to Harrow-on-the-Hill station, as engineering works had overrun.

Arriving at Harrow-on-the-Hill station, at 09;40, we made our way down the stairs from the platform and used the subway to reach Platform 2, where we would catch a National Rail Chiltern Flyer to Marylebone station. There was a wait of about 30 minutes, but at least we pretty much guaranteed a space on the train, unlike those waiting for the Metropolitan trains to start running again at around 10:30.

Sure enough we were soon aboard our train, speeding towards Marylebone station, where we disembarked and headed down to the Bakerloo line trains, which we took to Embankment station.

Leaving Embankment station we crossed Victoria Embankment and headed east, following the River Thames, until we reached Bazalgette Embankment. Here we explored one of London's newest public realms, which is built above one of the bore holes of the Tideway Tunnel. It was fairly empty with a few people sitting in some of the various seating areas, enjoying the morning sun, while a few skateboarders were practising their tricks a little further on. But it is always nice to get up close to the Lion heads that have always been out of reach.