Church of St George-in-the-East and St George's Gardens

The church of St George-in-the-East was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor. The foundations were laid in 1714, the building roofed in 1717, and the church was finally dedicated on July 19, 1729. The new parish was created  out of the Parish of Stepney and named St George-ion-the-East, in order to distinguish it from other parishes named after St George.

The church was built on a confined site hemmed in, on its south side, by the buildings which ran along the Ratcliff Highway (now The Highway). Nicholas Hawksmoor designed the church to soar above these buildings, thus ensuring that much of the detail of the church would remain visible for years to come. The original church was formed in the shape of a Greek cross within a rectangle. It had 'pepper-pot' towers, over the gallery staircases, and a tower, at the west end, that featured an open octagon top stage.

In May 1941, during the Blitz, an incendiary bomb hit the church and destroyed the interior. Although the interior was damaged beyond repair, the walls and the 'pepper-pot' turrets remained standing. In 1964, Arthur Bailey designed a modern church interior, which was constructed inside the existing walls, and which was dedicated in April 1964. At the same time a ring of eight replacement bells, cast at the Whitechapel Bell Foundry, were installed.

'Turner's Old Star', Wapping

A proper East End pub.

On the corner of Watts Street and Meeting House Alley, opposite the southwest corner of Wapping Green, is a wonderful pub with a lot of history.

'Turner's Old Star' is one of those backstreet pubs that are often overlooked, except by those who live locally. Just a five minute walk from the more prominent touristy pubs, such as the 'Town of Ramsgate' and the 'Captain Kidd', this is a wonderful place to visit and relax.

The pub offers big screen TVs, for those who like to watch their sports, a dartboard and pool table, for those who prefer to participate, and a large pub garden, partly covered, where another screen can be found.

Besides various pieces of memorabilia, there is also a Yeoman Warders 'Blue Undress' uniform, within the pub, protected by glass. This was a gift to the pub from a pub regular who was either a Yeoman Warder or had recently retired from that service. 

It is definitely one of those old fashioned East End boozers that are sadly disappearing, which is a great shame.

The interior of the pub.

Brief history.

In 1685, Lydia Rogers, the wife of carpenter John Rogers, was a member of a radical religious sect called the 'Anabaptists'. She was accused of making a 'blood pact' with the devil, who was said to have cut a vein in her right hand to obtain the blood to use as ink for the contract. 

The local minister spent time praying with her as she confessed her sin.

Walking with friends: Aldgate to Limehouse... and beyond

A message from 'Beak and Squeak'.

Monday January 5, 2026: 

Sunny with Northwest wind at 9 mph. 

2°C (35.6°F), but the windchill made it feel like -4°C

First walk of 2026.

I had arrived at Aldgate station early, so I had a wander around the edge of the City of London, while I awaited the arrival of Dyan, who would be accompanying me on today's walk. This would be Dyan's first walk with me, so I had picked a route that went along with some of her interests.

One of London's 'Slum' pubs, soon to be demolished.

On leaving Aldgate station we headed along the very narrow Little Somerset Street, as I wanted to get some photos of the 'Still & Star' pub, before it gets pulled down. The pub closed in 2017 and is one of only a few 'Slum' pubs left in London. This pub was converted from a private house into licensed premises, in the 1820s. Rumours abound that the new developers are going to build a replica of the pub in front of their new office block. Which begs the question, "Why not keep the original building?"

We followed Little Somerset Street and joined Mansell Street, Goodman's Fields and the Prescot Street. Prescot Street was the first street, in London, where the buildings were numbered, rather than having signs hung outside. This practice spread, aiding the flourishing postal service.

A true Victorian pub.

We passed the 'English Martyrs Church', built between 1873-1876 and then the 'Princess of Prussia', named for Victoria Louise, Queen Victoria’s granddaughter and the daughter of German emperor Wilhelm II. I must pop in here, one day.

The Ratcliff Highway Murders and the Aftermath

The Ratcliff Highway Murders.

In two incidents, between December 7th and 19th, 1811, seven people from two families were murdered in what would become known as the Ratcliff Highway Murders. This was one of London's first major serial murder cases, which deeply shocked Victorian society. 

At midnight on Saturday December 7th, at 29 Ratcliff Highway (now The Highway), Mr Timothy Marr, a draper, sent his maid out for oysters before he and his apprentice, James Gowan, closed the drapery for the night. On her return the maid could not rouse them to gain entry and so summoned a watchman, who also failed to make entry.

29 Ratcliff Highway is now a block of flats.

A neighbour, John Murray, who finally managed to enter, found the draper and apprentice murdered in a blood-spattered room, downstairs, and Marr's wife Celia and their child Timothy dead, upstairs. The weapons, a chisel and a maul hammer, lay on the shop floor. Two pairs of footprints were found in the back of the shop.

The site of the second murders.

On Thursday December 19th, a nearly naked man escaped from a second-floor window of the King's Arms public house, at 81 New Gravel Lane (now Garnet Street), shouting, "They are murdering the people in the house!" The publican, John Williamson, his wife, Elizabeth, and their maid, Bridget Anna Harrington, were later found dead with fractured skulls and their throats cut. A crowbar was found beside John Williamson, but no knife or sharp implement was discovered.

Walking alone: Farringdon to Tower Hill... and beyond

St George-in-the-East church.

Monday December 8, 2025.

Today was my last day of annual leave, for 2025, and I wasn't going to waste it. So, off to London I headed.

Farringdon station.

A short walk to Watford underground station saw me catch a Baker Street-bound train, which I took to Finchley Road, where I waited 3-minutes for an Aldgate-bound train. Soon I was alighting at Farringdon station, ready for a walk.

Holborn viaduct.

I headed down Farringdon Road and onto Farringdon Street, passing below the Holborn Viaduct, crossed Fleet Street, and joined New Bridge Street, before heading west along Tudor Street. With lots of building work going on I took a slight detour up Bouverie Street and entered Magpie Alley. 

Magpie Alley tiles.

The tiled walls of Magpie Alley, which I had never seen, tell the history of Fleet Street's printing evolution from around 1500. Suitably filled with new knowledge I made my way out of Magpie Alley, avoiding the scaffolding and myriad trucks and lorries that filled the streets, and made my way down Whitefriars Street until I reached Tudor Street, again. This time I headed east and rejoined New Bridge Street, which I followed north until I turned east along Ludgate Hill.

How many street names in one photo?

Ludgate Hill brought me to St Paul's Churchyard and one of London's unique thoroughfares... Peter's Hill. Now, Peter's Hill has, over the centuries, moved as the area has gone through rebuilding. Now, it shares its route with Sermon Lane and Knightrider Court, which has moved from its original position to the east of Sermon Lane, to the west of it. And, depending on which online map you use, this thoroughfare is listed under different names. Confusing.

The St Lawrence Jewry drinking fountain.

Suitably confused I continued east onto Cannon Street, passing the St Lawrence Jewry drinking fountain, before turning up Queen Victoria Street, just so that I could walk through the Bloomberg Arcade and see 'Forgotten Stream' by Cristina Iglesias. 

The oldest church in the City of London.

I then rejoined Cannon Street until I reached Eastcheap. Following my feet I continued along Eastcheap until I reached Byward Street and All Hallows by the Tower. Now, All Hallows by the Tower is the oldest church in the City of London and I have walked by it on countless occasions, but never ventured inside. So, I remedied this error, on my part, and entered this ancient building.

As I entered a couple were just leaving, which, to my surprise, left me alone in the church, apart from a few volunteers who were replacing leaflets and checking the aisles.

The Lady chapel.

I set about exploring and was taken in awe with how incredible the interior was. My footsteps echoed off the flagstone flooring as I made my way through the building taking in the chapels and artefacts on display. Making my way through the door, below the organ, I noticed the Saxon arch and a sign 

indicating the directions to the Undercroft Museum, which I followed. 

The Undercroft chapel.

I carefully made my way below the church and was soon at the Roman street level of Londinium, with a tessellated floor still in place. Slowly I explored the entire space with its Roman, Saxon, Norman and countless other eras of artefacts all on display. More chapels were visited, before the route brought me back up into the church. Having explored as much as I could I headed outside to find that it had rained while I had been inside.

Thames Tunnel, Rotherhithe to Wapping

The plaque at Rotherhithe station.

London is a city layered with history, and some of the most fascinating stories lie beneath its surface. One such story belongs to the Thames Tunnel, an engineering marvel that was the first tunnel ever successfully built beneath a navigable river and a project so ambitious it took nearly two decades to complete.

Today, you might speed through it on the London Overground, barely giving a second thought to the brick arches passing by your window. But, in the 19th century, this passageway connecting Rotherhithe and Wapping was the scene of drama, innovation, and, for a short time, one of the city's most popular tourist attractions.

By the early 1800s, London's docks were booming, but the River Thames created a huge bottleneck. Building a new bridge downstream of London Bridge would have blocked the passage of tall-masted sailing ships. The only solution was to go under the river.

Several attempts to tunnel beneath the Thames had failed disastrously. The soft, treacherous ground beneath the riverbed made traditional mining techniques impossible. Enter the brilliant French-born engineer, Marc Isambard Brunel.

Brunel’s genius lay in his invention of the tunnelling shield. The idea, allegedly inspired by watching a shipworm bore through wood, was a revolutionary concept in civil engineering.

Keilyn at the bottom of the tunnel shaft. Notice the soot mark, from steam trains, still on the wall.

Patented in 1818, the shield was essentially a massive, rectangular, cast-iron frame divided into 36 compartments. Miners would work inside these individual cells, digging away a small section of earth in front of them while the surrounding frame held the unstable ground in place. Once a small segment was dug, the shield would be moved forward, and bricklayers would immediately line the new section of the tunnel behind it. This method was the key to conquering the soft, wet subsoil.

Work began in 1825, but the project was far from smooth sailing. It was a harrowing 18-year ordeal, plagued by financial crises, poor air quality, and most terrifyingly, repeated floods as the river burst through the thin crust of ground above.

Retracting Footbridge, St Katharine Docks

The original footbridge.

St Katharine Docks, which was the only major project of Thomas Telford in London, opened in 1828. His idea was to use as much of the land as possible for warehouses and to limit quayside space, ensuring cargo was lifted directly into the warehouses.

Because of the way he designed the docks, narrow footpaths allowed workers to walk around the site. However, to get from one side of the dock to the other could take some time, so Thomas Rhodes, the resident engineer of Telford, designed this retractable bridge, between the Central Basin and the East Dock.

Constructed with iron castings and wrought iron forgings, by John Lloyd, the bridge was linked to rail-mounted cast iron counterweight boxes that allowed it to stretch across the dock. Using a rack and pinion system the bridge could be retracted into the masonry of the dock walls.

The housing for the bridge.

Tower Hotel, St Katharine's Way

March 7-8, 2025.

I have walked by this hotel on many occasions and I have seen it in many films and TV series, but I have never been inside.

Today, that changed as Emma and I were booked in for the evening, as part of our wedding anniversary. 

The brutalist concrete style, of the exterior, is not repeated internally. Bright tiles and mirrors bring a modern and contemporary feel. 

Reception was fully staffed, so we didn't have to wait long to be checked in. Padam, who checked us in, assured us that he had given us a great room with an even better view. We would see.

The lift (elevator) was silent, smooth and spacious, with mirrored walls and ceiling and tiled floor, which made it seem even bigger. A small ashtray, built into one of the elevator panels, showed the age of the building.

Arriving on the fifth floor we turned right and then, a bit further on, turned left, finally arriving at 561. Our room was simply decorated and had everything now expected of a hotel: bed, smart TV, kettle, iron, Nespresso machine, air conditioning, desk, wardrobes, underfloor heating, etc.. 

Each item of furniture had a glass top, to protect it from damage. There were switches for various lights and heating and air conditioning.

The bed was comfortable and spacious, with plenty of pillows, too.

As promised, by Padam, the view was stunning and exactly what you would hope for when staying at this hotel.

Our view was directly south, looking down on the River Thames, with Tower Bridge and The Shard to our right. Perfect.

Breakfast, on Saturday morning, had everything on offer. There were cereals, pastries, breads, full English, tea and coffee machines and various juices and iced water. We were fortunate enough to be sat by a window, overlooking St Katharine Docks, rather than in the centre of the room.

As luck would have it, Tower Bridge opened for a maintenance check on Saturday morning, for which we had an excellent view.

Checking out was easy, as we simply handed our wood-effect keys in at reception.

The staff and facilities were excellent and I would definitely stay here again.

Oh, and one last thing... A big "thank you" to my wife for booking the hotel.

Walking with Keilyn: Brunel Museum to Rotherhithe... and beyond

Keilyn ready to visit the Brunel Museum.

Saturday April 27, 2024.

Another Saturday saw Keilyn and I take another trip to London. Specifically to visit the Brunel Museum, but then to explore the area.

Our trip began the same way as usual; Metropolitan line to Finchley Road and then on to Bermondsey.

Our first stop, on reaching Bermondsey, was to grab a coffee and hot chocolate, which we purchased from the Servewell Cafe, before continuing along Jamaica Road to Southwark Park. The forecast said that rain was due at around 14:00, so we decided to visit Southwark Park before it began.

Keilyn at the Southwark Park Bandstand.

We visited the bandstand, before passing the bowling green, crossing Carriage Drive, where we discovered the Caryatids of Rotherhithe Old Town Hall. 

The Caryatids of Rotherhithe Old Town Hall.

From here we entered the Ada Salter Garden and then made our way around Southwark Boating Lake, before heading back towards Jamaica Road and King's Stairs Gardens.

Southwark Park Boating Lake.

From here it was a short walk along Saint Marychurch Street to the Brunel Museum, passing the historic Mayflower pub along the way.

Brunel's Engine House plaque.

To our surprise the Brunel Museum was deserted, so we had the entire place to ourselves for our entire visit. After purchasing our tickets, Keilyn was issued with a clipboard with two sheets of questions about the museum and the history of the Thames Tunnel, called 'The Brunel Detective Trail'.

Keilyn 50-feet down the Thames Tunnel Shaft.

Our first stop was to the Thames Tunnel shaft, from where the tunnel's construction began. After being ushered in to this cavernous shaft, with its bare brick and smoke-coated walls, we were left to explore on our own. At the bottom of the shaft Keilyn and I took a seat and watched a 4-minute video, that was set on a continuous loop, that explained the reasoning, construction and effect the Thames Tunnel had on London and the world. As we watched the video we could hear, and feel the London Overground (The Windrush line, from Autumn 2024) rumbling past beneath our feet.

Some of the artefacts on display.

Ornamental Canal, Wapping

Looking along the Ornamental Canal towards The Shard.

Just to the east of St Katherine Docks and Marina you will find Hermitage Basin, a small oasis amid a now residential area. This basin is all that is left of the London Docks, which were filled in for redevelopment in around 1983.

The old walls of the London Docks.

To keep the history of the London Docks alive a canal was designed, that would link Hermitage Basin to Shadwell Basin. This canal was not designed for river traffic and so was built as an ornamental reminder of bygone times.

Not navigable, but full of wildlife. 

The former dock walls were used as features along the Ornamental Canal, which would pass alongside Tobacco Dock, the only warehouses to survive the redevelopment, as it made its way in a north-easterly direction towards Shadwell Basin.

The Tobacco Dock warehouses were built in 1812.

As the canal nears Shadwell Basin it passes beneath Wapping Woods, so the towpath leads you up through this wonderful little park, before rejoining the canal near Shadwell Basin.

Walking with friends: King's Cross to Whitechapel... and beyond

A circular Tube Map, advertising Google's new 'circle to search' feature, at King's Cross station.

Saturday February 3, 2024.

Originally our plan had been to walk westward from London Bridge towards Vauxhall, as this was a route that we had only partially completed before. However, with a few train strikes and some engineering works being carried out, we decided on a completely different route.

Len made his way from Kings Langley to meet me and we caught the Metropolitan line to King's Cross, where we waited for Gary, who was travelling down from Peterborough. Len and I had a coffee, while we awaited Gary's train. Once Gary had arrived, at around 10:40, we decided to head east, along Pentonville Road to City Road and then onto Commercial Street.

Trains covered in graffiti, Shoreditch.

On the way we passed through Shoreditch and saw lots of graffiti covered trains and buildings. 

With the time getting on for 11:30ish, we headed along Whitechapel Road in search of a bite to eat. A small restaurant, which was reasonably priced, provided sustenance and, suitably full, we continued ever eastward.

The Blind Beggar.

Our first port-of-call was 'The Blind Beggar'. Gary had never visited this infamous pub, so he was pleased to enter. While we sat and chatted the actor Vas Blackwood entered, as he uses the pub as a starting point of his walking tours around the East End. Gary decided to go and have a chat with him, buying a signed photo and getting a selfie with him.

I think that sometime very soon I shall book myself on to one of Vas Blackwood's Walking Tours, as they are meant to be really informative and entertaining.

Gary with the actor Vas Blackwood.

Suitably refreshed we left the pub and headed south, through Shadwell towards Wapping, as there was a pub that I thought they might like to visit.

Walking with friends: Borough Market to the Isle of Dogs... and beyond

With Covid-19 and the various lockdowns putting a pause on my walks with friends, around The Unfinished City, it is great to be able to start them up again.

Saturday April 2, 2022

After a breakfast of Pulled Pork Burger with apple sauce and sage & onion stuffing, from Hobbs in Borough Market, my friend Stephen and I began our first walk of 2022.

Borough Market is a food lovers paradise.

Heading towards the River Thames we made our way through the Contorted Tunnel, which Stephen had never seen, to the basement of Hay's Galleria. Climbing the stairs we headed out on to the embankment, by HMS Belfast, and followed the path to Tower Bridge. 

Tower Bridge and the Girl with a Dolphin.

Taking the eastern pedestrian path, across the bridge, we headed to St Katharine Docks Marina, where various yachts, barges, lifeboats and the Queen's Rowbarge 'Gloriana' were moored. As we rounded one of the buildings I pointed out Stanley Kubrick's original 'Monolith' from 2001: A Space Odyssey, which had been affixed to the wall of one of the buildings, back in 1977.

'Monolith' by Arthur Fleischmann.

From here we headed eastward towards Hermitage Basin and the Ornamental Canal, through Wapping Woods and on to Shadwell Basin. A small area of the basin was being used by Wapping Docklands Market, so we had a look around the different food stalls before heading in to the historic The Prospect of Whitby, for a well-deserved drink.

Our first drink in London together for a number of years.

'The Dickens Inn'

Dickensian.

It was while strolling around St Katharine Dock and Marina that I spotted this beautiful old converted warehouse. Intrigued by its name, and style, I decided to find out more about this fascinating building.

'Gloriana'

A Right Royal Barge.

Saturday September 10, 2016.

I was quite surprised when, walking around St Katharine Docks, I spotted the Queen's Rowbarge 'Gloriana', nestled amongst other vessels of varying size and stature. 

Because of the crowds, which were all trying to get a good view, it was hard to get a decent shot, but I was happy with this one.

Tobacco Dock

Land-locked Dock.

Saturday September 10, 2016.

Tobacco Dock was another one of those places that I heard lots about, but had never visited. It was by pure chance that, as I wandered along the Ornamental Canal, I noticed the masts of two ships. As I climbed the stairs I realised where I was, so set about taking some photos.

Tobacco Dock.

Although, on my visit, the docks were closed, it was good to finally see the ships and gates, before I continued walking eastwards.